DIY: Replace side engine mount • Acura TL
08-08-2012, 03:19 PM
#41
Moderator
I want to but at 300 bucks a set is a no go for me right now...
Polyfilling my Front/Rear cost me 10 bucks! And if they last as long as my Side Mount has I will be happy with the results.
Polyfilling my Front/Rear cost me 10 bucks! And if they last as long as my Side Mount has I will be happy with the results.
08-08-2012, 03:55 PM
#42
The set of 5 mounts (3 engine + 2 tranny) for $150 from ebay is a good alternative. I have these installed and the car feels like new. They are identical to the oem including the vacuum connections. Others have used them here with success. They should last as long as the oem (which is not too long, but the price makes them worthwhile).
08-08-2012, 05:39 PM
#43
Moderator
Ive forgot about tranny mounts, How do you know/test if they are done???
Or I should know by looking them? Worn, Crack, Etc.
Is this the kit your talking about "victus1":
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Accord-V6-TL...f45932&vxp=mtr
Or I should know by looking them? Worn, Crack, Etc.
Is this the kit your talking about "victus1":
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Accord-V6-TL...f45932&vxp=mtr
08-08-2012, 06:11 PM
#44
Yeah those are the ebay kits. They are also sold under the name Motor King.
My original tranny mounts looked ok, but I changed them anyway as they came in the kit. They were identical to the original. You check for wear by looking for cracks in the rubber as you bend them. Need to remove them first.
My original tranny mounts looked ok, but I changed them anyway as they came in the kit. They were identical to the original. You check for wear by looking for cracks in the rubber as you bend them. Need to remove them first.
08-09-2012, 10:21 AM
#45
Great Thanks. I'll take care of the side mount first and then decide if I'll do the front mount myself or take it in for replacement. I have to get my timing belts/waterpump replaced anyway so I might have them do the front mount at the same time.
The side mount shouldn't go bad any quicker because you had a gap of a month or so before doing the front mount.
I did the front mount from above, without jacking the car up. Now that was hard.
You can get both mounts delivered for about $200 from http://www.acuraoemparts.com.
Ramps and a floor jack, some tools, and you're in business.
If I had the car on ramps, I don't think the front mount would have been any harder than the side mount.
I don't remember if I loosened the side mount, but you don't need to raise the engine all that much.
I did the front mount from above, without jacking the car up. Now that was hard.
You can get both mounts delivered for about $200 from http://www.acuraoemparts.com.
Ramps and a floor jack, some tools, and you're in business.
If I had the car on ramps, I don't think the front mount would have been any harder than the side mount.
I don't remember if I loosened the side mount, but you don't need to raise the engine all that much.
09-20-2012, 11:24 AM
#48
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Experts - do you know if there is a meaningful difference between the AT and MT motor mounts? They do have different part numbers, so I thought I would check. Thanks!
MT:
50810-SEP-A12 RUBBER ASSY., RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (MT)
50820-SEP-A12 RUBBER ASSY., ENGINE SIDE MOUNTING (MT)
50829-SEP-A02 DAMPER ASSY., RR. ENGINE ROCK
50830-SEP-A13 RUBBER ASSY., FR. ENGINE MOUNTING (MT)
AT:
50810-SEP-A02 RUBBER ASSY., RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (AT)
50820-SEP-A21 RUBBER ASSY.
50830-SEP-A21 RUBBER ASSY., FR. 001
MT:
50810-SEP-A12 RUBBER ASSY., RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (MT)
50820-SEP-A12 RUBBER ASSY., ENGINE SIDE MOUNTING (MT)
50829-SEP-A02 DAMPER ASSY., RR. ENGINE ROCK
50830-SEP-A13 RUBBER ASSY., FR. ENGINE MOUNTING (MT)
AT:
50810-SEP-A02 RUBBER ASSY., RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (AT)
50820-SEP-A21 RUBBER ASSY.
50830-SEP-A21 RUBBER ASSY., FR. 001
10-09-2012, 07:16 PM
#50
2nd Gear
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Cant put mount back on
So my mount was making a lot of noise and I decieded to change it, I found this page and it helped me on how to take it off. So when I tried putting the new one this is what I get
10-09-2012, 07:26 PM
#51
2nd Gear
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Sorry new to this and I cant figure out how to put a photo. But i guess ill explain, SO the 2 top bolts that suppose to screw on are not at the same level. SO its pretty much shifted a quarter to the right side. Im not sure if the engine got shifted from the old one or whats going on
10-09-2012, 08:58 PM
#52
Go to http://imgur.com .... upload the photo (free, don't have to create an account). post link here.
10-09-2012, 10:02 PM
#53
Sorry new to this and I cant figure out how to put a photo. But i guess ill explain, SO the 2 top bolts that suppose to screw on are not at the same level. SO its pretty much shifted a quarter to the right side. Im not sure if the engine got shifted from the old one or whats going on
Is the front mount totally shot? Making the engine lean to the front?
I didn't jack my engine in any way to replace the side mount, and the front mount was shot when I did the side mount.
10-09-2012, 10:14 PM
#54
Whenever you change mounts you need to support the engine from the bottom with a block of wood and a jack. If you didn't do this, it would explain the engine shifting and preventing the bolts from lining up.
10-10-2012, 12:26 PM
#55
For anyone that does not want to replace the side mount or minds to care for the side mount, the side mount has a hollow side, all you have to do is to fill that opening hollow with a dense cushion and it will work just like new if not better, even it's already cracked as shown in the picture, it will work just fine if you fill that opening hollow tightly. I used old shoe bottom that was made of rubber.
You do not need to support the engine unless you feel there is a weight on the mount. I didn't need to support the engine when I did mine, but every car is different.
You do not need to support the engine unless you feel there is a weight on the mount. I didn't need to support the engine when I did mine, but every car is different.
Last edited by acutee; 10-10-2012 at 12:31 PM.
12-12-2012, 05:08 PM
#56
Safety Car
On the Front mount you can reach the rear left bolt from the top with a six inch extension and a lot of muscle. Spray all bolts with pb blaster the night before, makes removing bolts a lot easier.
08-03-2013, 01:40 AM
#58
I find the picture diagram for the engine mounts on on acuraoemparts.com a bit confusing, can anybody point out the front and side mounts for me? I went to my local dealer today and they said both mounts would come out to about $320 so im sure i could save some money on the site just dont know which mount is which from the diagram.
08-03-2013, 08:30 AM
#59
I find the picture diagram for the engine mounts on on acuraoemparts.com a bit confusing, can anybody point out the front and side mounts for me? I went to my local dealer today and they said both mounts would come out to about $320 so im sure i could save some money on the site just dont know which mount is which from the diagram.
You need to input your VIN to be sure of the exact mount model number.
03-06-2014, 03:10 PM
#60
1st Gear
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Well, I'd say my side mount was quite useless given it's state:
Can you tell which is new & old?
Some of my personal notes for people who do this in the future (despite how easy it seems): Breaker bar is a must! You definitely have to put down your purse for a few of those bolts, and your basic ratchet most likely won't be able to loosen a few of those bolts either. I didn't use a universal on this side mount at all & was fine. You are better off unbolting/unplugged the Cruise control module thing & swing it out of the way before starting this. It'll make things a lot easier.
Now I get attempt the much more difficult front mount this week :ee
Thanks again for the write up Sperry (if you even read these forums anymore)
Can you tell which is new & old?
Some of my personal notes for people who do this in the future (despite how easy it seems): Breaker bar is a must! You definitely have to put down your purse for a few of those bolts, and your basic ratchet most likely won't be able to loosen a few of those bolts either. I didn't use a universal on this side mount at all & was fine. You are better off unbolting/unplugged the Cruise control module thing & swing it out of the way before starting this. It'll make things a lot easier.
Now I get attempt the much more difficult front mount this week :ee
Thanks again for the write up Sperry (if you even read these forums anymore)
Just an fyi like dude says above take out the cruise control module thing... its 3 bolts and cannot imagine how this is done without removing that first.... also invest in a little pivot knuckle rachet thing like shown in the pictures.... ither than that pretty easy to do and my experience its quite limited if you couldnt already tell... I saw a major improvement in my cars idling and acceleration right away...THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR PUTTING THIS TOGETHER I MIGHT NOT HAVE ATTEMPTED WITHOUT IT
03-06-2014, 03:36 PM
#61
Moderator
To update:
My polyfilled side mount has now 56K on it still going strong..
My Front/Rear polyfilled has almost 30K on them they still working like new.
As expected of not having the Vacuum space there is a little vibration when coming to a stop but it goes away as soon you gas it (Pretty much like other Solid $$$ Mounts).. But my set only run me 30 bucks at most so I can live with it.
My polyfilled side mount has now 56K on it still going strong..
My Front/Rear polyfilled has almost 30K on them they still working like new.
As expected of not having the Vacuum space there is a little vibration when coming to a stop but it goes away as soon you gas it (Pretty much like other Solid $$$ Mounts).. But my set only run me 30 bucks at most so I can live with it.
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