DIY Installing Headlight Bulbs in 2nd Gen. TL [PICS]
#1
8th Gear
Thread Starter
DIY Installing Headlight Bulbs in 2nd Gen. TL [PICS]
I am a new Acurazine member and a new 2nd Generation TL owner I wanted to replace my headlight bulbs with 6000k bulbs and couldn't find a solid DIY with pictures so I ended up just going for it and got it done and decided to write this after I finished (whoops) but this is my first post and DIY so please forgive me if its confusing.
Passenger Side Headlight Bulb Replacement
1.) Unscrew the bolt (10mm) holding the window washer fluid tank into place and push it towards the outside of the engine bay, this will give you enough room when replacing the bulbs.
2.) Pull up on brake fluid reservoir it will just slide out of the bracket that is holding it.
3.) Unscrew the security screw (#20 Torx Security Screw) on the "top" of the headlight assembly.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89090314@N07/8117296272/
4.) With the security screw off grab the bulb housing (back part which is sort of in the circular shape and should have a warning sticker on it). Twist it counter clockwise (or in other terms towards the outside of the car)
*When putting it back on you have to line up small slots once they are lined up turn clock wise and make sure its tight.
5.) Once the back is twisted off reach in and twist the connector that connects to the bulb (I believe it's the power supply for the bulbs that runs to the ballast)
6.) With that removed reach under the bulb and their is a clip holding the bulb into place push down on it and it will unlock, move that out of the way and pull the bulb out and replace with the new bulbs.
Drive Side Headlight Bulb Replacement
1.) Remove plastic battery cover.
2.) There is a plastic cover between the air filter box and the metal frame (headlight assembly) it's held in place by 2 plastic clips remove those with a flat head screwdriver and pliers then pull up on it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89090314@N07/8117285805/
3.) After doing that, unscrew the top bolt (10mm) holding the air filter box in place.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89090314@N07/8117284605/
4.) Once that bolt is unscrewed there is another (10mm) bolt that is right next to the battery on the right side which also holds the air filter box in place unscrew that.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89090314@N07/8117296082/
5.) Their is a black plastic "tube" (runs to the lower resonator box?) blocking the back part of the headlight that you need to twist off just pull up on it and it will come off.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89090314@N07/8117296082/
6.) This is where I got lazy and I just lifted the air filter box up so I had enough room to get to the headlight assembly.
Follow steps 3-6 above to finish the driver side headlight bulb replacement.
Good Luck!
Passenger Side Headlight Bulb Replacement
1.) Unscrew the bolt (10mm) holding the window washer fluid tank into place and push it towards the outside of the engine bay, this will give you enough room when replacing the bulbs.
2.) Pull up on brake fluid reservoir it will just slide out of the bracket that is holding it.
3.) Unscrew the security screw (#20 Torx Security Screw) on the "top" of the headlight assembly.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89090314@N07/8117296272/
4.) With the security screw off grab the bulb housing (back part which is sort of in the circular shape and should have a warning sticker on it). Twist it counter clockwise (or in other terms towards the outside of the car)
*When putting it back on you have to line up small slots once they are lined up turn clock wise and make sure its tight.
5.) Once the back is twisted off reach in and twist the connector that connects to the bulb (I believe it's the power supply for the bulbs that runs to the ballast)
6.) With that removed reach under the bulb and their is a clip holding the bulb into place push down on it and it will unlock, move that out of the way and pull the bulb out and replace with the new bulbs.
Drive Side Headlight Bulb Replacement
1.) Remove plastic battery cover.
2.) There is a plastic cover between the air filter box and the metal frame (headlight assembly) it's held in place by 2 plastic clips remove those with a flat head screwdriver and pliers then pull up on it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89090314@N07/8117285805/
3.) After doing that, unscrew the top bolt (10mm) holding the air filter box in place.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89090314@N07/8117284605/
4.) Once that bolt is unscrewed there is another (10mm) bolt that is right next to the battery on the right side which also holds the air filter box in place unscrew that.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89090314@N07/8117296082/
5.) Their is a black plastic "tube" (runs to the lower resonator box?) blocking the back part of the headlight that you need to twist off just pull up on it and it will come off.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/89090314@N07/8117296082/
6.) This is where I got lazy and I just lifted the air filter box up so I had enough room to get to the headlight assembly.
Follow steps 3-6 above to finish the driver side headlight bulb replacement.
Good Luck!
The following 3 users liked this post by TCPanda:
#2
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There is another DIY here: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/low-beam-installation-631575/#post9056124
But yours is also helpful and adds some additional detail, so thanks for posting.
I've got bulbs on the way and will need both these post in a few days.
BTW - you're missing a pic. If you post it, or PM the link, I can edit the original post and insert it where it belongs.
But yours is also helpful and adds some additional detail, so thanks for posting.
I've got bulbs on the way and will need both these post in a few days.
BTW - you're missing a pic. If you post it, or PM the link, I can edit the original post and insert it where it belongs.
#3
what a PITA
all that work and still blind access to get the 1 arm clip off,,and especially seated right going back on!
critical to bulb operation it sit right
thats why many prefer to pop the buttons and few screws for the nose and slide it off
Then the housings are held in by a few bolts!
SO much easier to work on sitting on the workbench!
NOTE 6000k are nice to look at but not as much white light on ground in front of car
I know this from personal testing
5000k max suggested low beams
Reminder Wear latex/rubber gloves when handling bulbs- oils in your skin get on bulb, create a hot spot = burns out quickly thru that weakened area
Note 2 for noobs: if there was ANY moisture in the lens probs= you need a new HID kit,,
the ballast sits directly below the drain/vent hole in housing...damages capactor/ignitor with its `shorting out` failure
electricity and water not the best of friends ~
all that work and still blind access to get the 1 arm clip off,,and especially seated right going back on!
critical to bulb operation it sit right
thats why many prefer to pop the buttons and few screws for the nose and slide it off
Then the housings are held in by a few bolts!
SO much easier to work on sitting on the workbench!
NOTE 6000k are nice to look at but not as much white light on ground in front of car
I know this from personal testing
5000k max suggested low beams
Reminder Wear latex/rubber gloves when handling bulbs- oils in your skin get on bulb, create a hot spot = burns out quickly thru that weakened area
Note 2 for noobs: if there was ANY moisture in the lens probs= you need a new HID kit,,
the ballast sits directly below the drain/vent hole in housing...damages capactor/ignitor with its `shorting out` failure
electricity and water not the best of friends ~
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 10-23-2012 at 11:56 PM.
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Bearcat94 (11-04-2012)
#4
stock hid parts are not waterproof, and are large heavy 15 year old design
many do not interchange on years
I would go to www.hidextra.com for a kit only 59$!
many do not interchange on years
I would go to www.hidextra.com for a kit only 59$!
#5
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I don't understand how the wire retaining bail fits over the bulb base/bulb housing. I'm having a hard time getting the bulb seated properly, when I do (or think I do) either
1.) I can't get the retaining bail to clip back in place, or
2.) I get the retaining bail clipped in, but the bulb housing/base is not secure and it falls out.
#6
That's the reason why 01tl4tl recommends pulling the front bumper for better access.
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Bearcat94 (11-04-2012)
#7
Senior Moderator
Get a small mirror and use that to see the exact positioning of the bulb and clip. It also will help to see how it clips in without the bulb just to get a mental image once the bulb is in.
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#8
its that or the bumper~
seeing whats going on with it installed helps-
I cant imagine how you guys do the bulbs with housing on car!
trying to keep the remaining layers of skin ..the few left after years of wrenching
seeing whats going on with it installed helps-
I cant imagine how you guys do the bulbs with housing on car!
trying to keep the remaining layers of skin ..the few left after years of wrenching
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Bearcat94 (11-04-2012)
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Bearcat94 (11-04-2012)
#10
Racer
I used a mirror and a "dentist-like" curved metal pick to get the clip back around the bottom side of the bulb to get it seated correctly. After almost 45 minutes of fighting that stupid clip I decided to try that and I think it only took me 3 or 4 tries to get it. I used it kinda like using a brake tool to do a drum brake job... if that makes sense!
Hope this helps for the future!
Hope this helps for the future!
#11
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#12
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Got 'em.
Took the bumper off. Much easier, imho. As soon as I had them on the bench I saw the 'trick' to lock the bulb base in.
So, friends and neighbors, as per usual .... listen to Tom.
Took the bumper off. Much easier, imho. As soon as I had them on the bench I saw the 'trick' to lock the bulb base in.
So, friends and neighbors, as per usual .... listen to Tom.
#13
Moderator
Im so Used to Changing low Bulbs (To Install different °K Bulbs) that That little Metal Arm I can install it without removing anything now...
Its just Pressure > Move Aside > Lift (Install Bulb) Lower Arm > Pressure > Move Inside > DONE!
Its just Pressure > Move Aside > Lift (Install Bulb) Lower Arm > Pressure > Move Inside > DONE!
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01tl4tl (11-04-2012)
#14
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Yeah, but I couldn't afford to fly an expert like you out here.
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JmannTLs03 (11-17-2012)
#15
Senior Moderator
The few times i had mine out to play around it was easy like you said once you figure it out. Last ones i helped someone change i did it like you without removing anything. Took 5 min to do both sides and washing my hands afterwards.
#16
I just figure we all will need the new ballast etc at some point
may as well do it now with the waterproof parts and drive with nice bright lights
reminder: new hid bulbs need 50-100 hours of use to get burned in to full color and brightness'
may also be a little slow--1-2 minutes, to come up to full brightness the first few weeks
Drive with the lows on all the time to get some hours!!
may as well do it now with the waterproof parts and drive with nice bright lights
reminder: new hid bulbs need 50-100 hours of use to get burned in to full color and brightness'
may also be a little slow--1-2 minutes, to come up to full brightness the first few weeks
Drive with the lows on all the time to get some hours!!
#17
8th Gear
Thread Starter
I would have never thought of using a mirror to get a mental image.. that sure would have saved me from having blood rushing to my head and trial and error.. I focused more on the bulbs too their were "bumps" or "indents" on one part of the bulb those point towards the top when inserting them and the clip goes smoothly in place.
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