Chojun

Hey Everybody.

As promised, here's a DIY for the lower control arm. This applies to the front only. The instructions are going to be for the left (driver's) side because of the special steps required. I'm not an experienced mechanic *at all* and was able to get this job done without any real problems.


SUMMARY:

The Lower Control Arm needs to be disconnected from the knuckle, damper fork, sway bar end link, radius rod, and frame. On the driver's side the rear transmission mount (at a minimum) will have to be removed.
Difficulty: 5/10
Time: 2-3 hours
Alignment likely required


TOOLS:

A * indicates a required tool.
* Jack
* Jack stands
* Wheel chocks (or similar)
* Metric socket set (10mm - 21mm) and ratchet
* Socket extensions (6 or more inches is best)
* Breaker bar
* Adjustable wrench
* Ball joint separator tool
* Hammer
* Long nose pliers (or similar)
Small Vice Grips
Metric allen key set
Penetrating oil
Pry bar (or similar)
Small wood block
New cotter pin

INSTRUCTIONS:

1) Raise the front of the vehicle. If you have a floor jack, you may jack from the front lower subframe directly underneath the front engine mount.
2) Place jack stands under both sides and chock the rear wheels
3) Remove the wheel on the side you're working on (lug nuts 80 ft-lbs)
4) Spray the nut attaching the sway bar end link to the control arm with penetrating oil.
5) Disconnect the damper fork.
5a) Using a socket on the bolt and an adjustable wrench (or extra socket and ratchet if you have one) on the nut on the opposite side, remove the bolt attaching the damper fork to the control arm. (47 ft-lbs)
6) Remove the damper fork from the damper by removing the pinch bolt on the fork (32 ft-lbs).
7) Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint nut, and remove the nut (36 - 43 ft-lbs)
8) Separate the lower control arm from the lower ball joint with a separator tool I used this tool. I wouldn't recommend using a pickle fork if you intend to re-use your lower ball joint or don't intend to replace its boot
9a) Slide the ball joint separator tool's fork under the ball joint boot, aligning the tool's swiveling jaw under the ball joint spindle.
9b) Tighten the tool until it gets pretty firm. Then, while tapping on the control arm with the hammer, slowly tighten the tool until the arm breaks loose from the joint. Don't try to separate the ball joint by just tightening it down until it literally explodes sending tools flying everywhere.

DRIVER'S SIDE ONLY - if not working on the driver's side, then proceed to #13:
10) Remove the 2 nuts from the rear transmission mount under the subframe. There are 2 passages under the subframe for access to the nuts. When the nuts come off they might fall inside the subframe (knowing this might save you 5-10 minutes wondering which trans-galactic dimension the nuts escaped to when you removed them).
11) Remove the 2 bolts attaching the transmission mount to the transmission.
12) Using a jack and block of wood under the transmission case, raise the transmission enough to clear the rear mount out. 1/2 to 1 inch in height is all you need. If you have solid or new engine mounts, you might need to remove the top nut from your front engine mount and remove the lower nuts from the front transmission mount. Pay attention to which direction you pull the mount out so you can get it back in easily.

13) Disconnect the radius rod from the control arm by removing the 2 connecting bolts (119 ft-lbs).
14) Disconnect the sway bar end link from the control arm. It's possible to nest a box wrench in the space in the control arm and use an allen wrench to remove the nut. If using the allen wrench method, then you *might* have some luck with a deep offset wrench similar to this to remove the nut while holding the end link shaft with the allen wrench
14a) If a wrench won't work, and the nut is just spinning with the end link shaft, then get a small pair of vice grips and grip the end link's metal collar on the stud opposite the nut (between the end link's boot and the control arm. Then you'll be able to use a socket and ratchet the nut off.
15) Remove the bolt attaching the control arm to the frame (47 ft-lbs). Note that the nut on the rear side of the bolt is welded to the frame.
16) Remove the lower control arm. A pry bar might help you wiggle the arm out of the frame.

To reinstall, follow the steps in reverse. Note the following:
* When reattaching the lower ball joint nut, torque to the lower value (36) and if the cotter pin won't pass through the hole in the ball joint shaft, then tighten toward the upper value (43). Don't loosen the nut or you'll get noise in the suspension
* If the lower ball joint stud spins when trying to reattach its nut, then put a jack under the lower control arm (under the bump where the end link attaches) and raise the control arm to put some pressure on the joint. You should be able to get the nut torqued now without the ball joint shaft spinning.
* You'll likely need to get your alignment done after this job.

Post here if there are any questions!