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Well the good news is that the fuse saved you from a potentially expensive repair. You can fry a lot of expensive electronics if you leave the battery connected while you work on any electrical connections.
I did it with the battery connect as well cause I didn't read any where that you had to disconnect it.
I think that step is called out in the Helm factory service manual. (The manual is worth the cost if you haven't bought one yet.)
But a good rule of thumb is to disconnect the battery when you're doing any work that involves re-wiring or disconnecting electrical connectors.
I have read reports on this forum of TLs being disabled during power on re-wiring. And the repairs can potentially involve the purchase of $1,000+ electronic components. That can ruin your day in a hurry.
problem started a month ago and continue.. , yesterday it stalled 3 times while I was driving on highway.
this morning I took my ca to Acura Sherway (2000 Queensway, Mississauga, ON) to check whether or not the ignition switch has been replaced once by deal. after checking, they told me that the recall has not been done on my car, BUT it is not free because my car is now 180K which is over warranty . I ask them to replace the ignition swithch I will Pay for it, they said they have to scan to find problem first
if ignition switch is the problem they may adjust the cost of the ignition switch, they give me an appointment on this monday to do the job
($180 for the scaning job _I paid $160 at Canadiantires for doing this job, they could not find anything)
ignition switch $110 (taxes included) + ($180 computer scan + taxes ) + 1 day absent form work >$300 bucks
that too much for me .
I read this page last night, I know they tried to rip me off
I don't have that much money to give away for free,
I decided to do it myself,
I just bought the part only, ....
I read this page carefully and start to do the job on my own , first a little confusing because my car has the viper alarm, since I did not know anything about electrical ...
But finally I still get it done
for the "mistery screw" I used 1/4 wrench + phillip screw bit like picture below
I like you I went to Accra Sherway and they were not help at all. They charged me $110 to diagnose the problem (one week before they had performed a recall on the ignition lock-out) and then wanted another $200 to fix the problem.
I'm not real keen on Sherway service even though that's where I bought the TL. I prefer Downtown Acura for service.
I know this is a repeat question, but can someone drop me a link to where I can pick up a new switch? I HAVE had one replacement done with the recall all ready. Funny thing is I didn't have any problems previously, now my car is randomly shutting off on me. If anyone can send me a direct link to where I can buy the ignition switch for a '99TL that has all ready been in for the recall I'd appreciate it. thanks fellas
Hey whats up guys, new member here to the site. I just wanted to let you all know that I signed up here just to tell everyone thanks for all of the info! this is the exact type of thread I was looking for and matches up with all of my problems. I have yet to find a better site where people can meet and talk about their Acura's I wanted to thank the starter of this post and thank them for all of the pictures and info. I have had a heck of a time finding the right ignition switch part ending in 305. But I have finally found the part and just wanted to tell everyone I'm about to install it. if this part works this website/forum will really have helped me save a lot of money because I do not trust the dealership. thanks again to everyone for all of their posts and valuable information. let me know if you have any more advice and i'll share all of mine.
hey guys, just wanted to post that the ignition swap went smooth and the car started right up, as soon as i get my 15 days in and granted the ability to upload pictures, I have some pics of where the ignition switch contacts are literately burnt and you can see where its overheated and the solder has melted. look forward to posting the pic.
Thanks a lot. I have mine apart right now and of course took apart the steering collum covers first. hehahe that is where the switch is right?. any way did not rcognize the switch untill I found this great DIY. Hope this cures my Acura's engine quitting and failing to start syndrome. I'll let ya all know!!!
6MTUA5, you are the man!!! I never would have found that little "mystery screw" and I too would have just pulled really hard until it snapped off. Thanks for the DIY!!!!! I replaced my starter too I think after 10 years it probably needed a new one anyway.
Just wanted to offer my experience, and to thank all for this thread.
My 99 Acura had its ignition switch replaced in 2004 under the recall even though there were no problems. About 1 year ago (2008) I had infrequent times where the car would just shut off. Didn't matter if it was running or stopped. I could start it up and continue with no problem.
Problem became more frequent in summer 2009, but then went away. Recently in December 2009 it started again, happening as frequently as 2 times per day.
So I found this thread and ordered the OEM ignition switch. It arrived on a Monday and I had planned to install it the following weekend. Tuesday of course I was driving, car cuts out, I can smell some burning, look down and see white smoke rising from the steering column!
This kills the car, I cant start it other than in the start position, it turns off when key goes to drive spot. I could not replicate the problem by wiggling the key as previous posters mention. Still I was dead on the spot. Quick tow to the shop, wife drives part to shop, they install it and 2 hours later I'm on the road.
Lo and behold, the ignition switch was bad and that solved the problem. So for $165 including the tow, plus $60 for the part and I was back in service.
Thanks again for this site and this thread, and I hope this helps others.
Just wanted to offer my experience, and to thank all for this thread.
My 99 Acura had its ignition switch replaced in 2004 under the recall even though there were no problems. About 1 year ago (2008) I had infrequent times where the car would just shut off. Didn't matter if it was running or stopped. I could start it up and continue with no problem.
Problem became more frequent in summer 2009, but then went away. Recently in December 2009 it started again, happening as frequently as 2 times per day.
So I found this thread and ordered the OEM ignition switch. It arrived on a Monday and I had planned to install it the following weekend. Tuesday of course I was driving, car cuts out, I can smell some burning, look down and see white smoke rising from the steering column!
This kills the car, I cant start it other than in the start position, it turns off when key goes to drive spot. I could not replicate the problem by wiggling the key as previous posters mention. Still I was dead on the spot. Quick tow to the shop, wife drives part to shop, they install it and 2 hours later I'm on the road.
Lo and behold, the ignition switch was bad and that solved the problem. So for $165 including the tow, plus $60 for the part and I was back in service.
Thanks again for this site and this thread, and I hope this helps others.
i guess you got the maxinum life out of that switch :rofl:, but that sucks that it crapped out before you could change it out, and had to have it towed
6MTUA5, just want to thank you for taking the time and effort to help all of us who have this issue. I live in a small town in N.E. Mississippi and have been experiencing this issue with my '99 TL for a while now. There's no Acura dealer in Tupelo and the mainstream mechanics have been stumped. I just called a dealership in Memphis (100 miles away) and they quoted me $208 on labor alone. It's nice to know I can fix this myself. Your pictures are a godsend -- and as a photographer myself, I appreciate your visual approach. Thank you!
Spudman, I had all the same symptoms. Driving down the highway in my '99 TL and wham-o..nothing. Just like that. I wound up having to drive back 120 hundred miles to my home in Tupelo with my finger on the key (not sure why THAT would make a difference, but it does). Anyway, like you, I'm glad to know the cause of the problem. I'm new to the Forum and was surprised to discover the recall (I bought my Acura used). But now that I know, I can finally do something about it.
Great instructions, thanks 6MTUA5 for putting all this info together. Can't tell you how helpful this guide is.
I'd like to share the discovery of being able to use a standard philips-head screwdriver when removing the mystery screw. You can assume the normal contortionist position of finding the mystery screw (head below steering column, facing the rear of the car). Once you get a visual lock on the screw, hold a screwdriver next to your cheek/nose and point it in the same direction as your eyes. From there, slowly move the screwdriver forward to the mystery screw and take care to navigate it between all the wires. A magnetized screwdriver helps tremendously especially when setting the screw back in.
I've just got done taking out the ignition switch. It was fairly simple took about 2 hours(mainly in puting everything back together). Can honestly say thank you for the DIY. Family's strapped for cash and taking it to the dealer would have been some nice change. I'd add pics but photobucket is acting up right now
3 days ago, my 99 TL died 5 times in an hour.. I came on this forum, searched the symptoms, and hoped the issue was the ignition switch.. Dealer quoted $250 for part/labor.. I found the part for $35 (free shipping), brand new.. rcv'd the part this morning..
Took me an hour to install because the car has a Viper alarm system. So i had to deal with ignition cut-out devices, and had to deal with splicing.. car starts, and works like a charm now.. thank you TL Gods of DIY
3 days ago, my 99 TL died 5 times in an hour.. I came on this forum, searched the symptoms, and hoped the issue was the ignition switch.. Dealer quoted $250 for part/labor.. I found the part for $35 (free shipping), brand new.. rcv'd the part this morning..
Took me an hour to install because the car has a Viper alarm system. So i had to deal with ignition cut-out devices, and had to deal with splicing.. car starts, and works like a charm now.. thank you 6MTUA5
This is my first post in this forum. First thank 6MTUA5 and others for valuable tips for this job.
Here is my story. My 99 TL stalled in 2003 during driving with smoking in steering column and did not start after. Towed to Acura dealer and found the faulty ignition switch. I was told that was in recall and got the replacementfor free at 90800 miles. It had been working fine until late last year. The engine stalled during driving, but ran again after I turned the key back andforth. Since then, this occurred randomly many times. I searched Internet and found this thread. I got to know that the replaced ignition switch could fail again. This time I read the repair record of 2003 again and found that the dealer replaced a part 35130-S84-305 per Bulletin 02-014. So I bought this part at a Honda dealer and replaced it myself. The work itself is not difficult. I found that the dome part of the switch cover was snapped off and was not there. The remaining cover piece is hold by the mystery screw. This remaining piece is still useful to help the harness routing. After replacement, I take the old switch apart and clearly see the burning marks of two contact points at both side of the stator and the rotor. The second switch lasted about 60000 mi.
This site rocks, you guys/gals are incredible help, and the whole DIY section, this one in particular, may have literally saved my life, as my 99 TL-P smoked her ignition switch at speed and was already replaced under the recall, little matter as she's turned 213k and 14 years old, now
Cant wait to become a more involved member after the trial period ends
Great thread! Saved me a bunch of headache, time, and money! However I do have one question. In the 11th picture down (third from the bottom) I removed both of those screws, and I noticed that the bottom screw was holding the cover down while the top screw (circled in red in the pic) was holding the actual switch in place. Once I removed the cover I saw there is a second place for another screw to hold the switch in place, which can be seen in the next picture down in the tutorial. However my TL did not have a screw in this location and I did not see where 6MTUA5 mention taking out that screw as well as there is no mention of that screw in the Haynes manual. Is there supposed to be a second screw holding the switch in place? Just curious as to why they would have gone to the trouble of adding that additional mounting spot to the switch housing and the switch itself if it was not intended to be utilized?
I can't answer Colbyjack's question but to give everyone an idea of what you can save....here is my repair bill from the local acura dealer to diagnose and replace my ignition switch (as well as the inexpensive MAP sensor). Read it and WEEP! $613. That was back in 2009. Car stalled on me, I was able to re-start it and had decided to take it directly to the dealer. Expensive mistake!
Did my '99TL last week after the usual symptoms. So far it's fixed. Cut off ~1/2 of the plastic cover to facilitate install, about 1 hour total. Much of that resulted when the key wouldn't turn...it was the result of cranking the wheel 90 degrees to help remove the cowling. That engaged the wheel lock, preventing the key from turning until pressure was released. Part $53 from Majestic Honda.
Taking apart the old one...seemed like just a lot of grease in there, not much sign of burning, but not interested in putting it back in to test it!
Wonder if Honda bought these from GM/Delphi...same time frame? Or at least the same source for the suspect plunger?
15 year old TL, 72K...should last another 5 years
Thanks 6MTUA5, Joe
99 TL with 195k miles. Original switch repl'd 7/02 @40k by Honda/Acura Recall. 13 yrs and 155k miles later, that switch failed on my wife at interstate speeds in the fast lane - very dangerous and traumatic. Auto shop couldn't diagnose - no OBD codes. Actually argued with me about all the dash lights going dark and didn't even bother to check the web - recalls, TSBs anything. So, I spent 5 mins on this forum and diagnosed it and used this thread tonight to repl - 3rd ignition switch now on car. I had trouble fitting the new switch because the slot wouldn't line up with the male prong. I found that you can gently insert a slot screwdriver and turn the switch through it's settings until it did - rather than having to turn the key. The new switch came ($55 from Amazon) with the slot not in the 0 (locked) position.
Acura is playing a dangerous game by only replacing the 1st failed switch. I've got to believe they have had numerous lawsuits and paid out some big money for related crashes, injury and maybe fatalities. I feel very blessed that my wife wasn't smashed when the Recall repl switch failed last week.
Anyway, good for now and will probably sell the TL soon - with a good conscience.
Thanks again for the thread - it has been hugely helpful as this forum almost always is.
Great diy - Just did this on my 99 inspire. Only has 44,000 km or about 27,300 miles so i don't think recall was ever done. Just imported it to the Caribbean (Cayman Islands) from Japan and it was stalling right from the jump randomly. Thought it was bad gas at first... then did the main relay... then the ignition switch. So far so good now
p.s. only took 20 min and did it with the battery connected and the mystery screw is supper easy to get to with a pocket sized flat head screwdriver from the right side of the steering wheel with it lowered
I have just tried to change my poorly working ignition switch on my CL 1999. Bought a new one on Ebay.
First problem was to take an old one out of its place. Instead of 2nd generation TLs, where the switch and connector connected throught a wire, my one is a one piece. And its seems impossible for me to take it out not breaking it. So i did...
To install a new one a i had to disassemble it before installing, then put pieces on its place and assemble it on its place, pretty hard but done.
And now i have the Second Problem:
I connected the switch, found the same position as the key had, but nothing happens. No igintion at all, only beeping from inserted key
Any ideas, except the bad new switch)?
UPD: Tried 1 more switch, bought from Autozone, with same result, so the problem is not in switch.
Maybe that cause i didnt unplug battery before start to working? But I checked all fuses near the pads and in motor section - all good
Hey, bumping this old thread to say thanks to the OP. The pics are great and were helpful in replacing the switch in my 99 TL. It's only been today but the mysterious engine stoppages are gone and the car's driveable again. I was able to get the mystery screw out with
Thanks for the guide! Helped me tonight. Here's my contribution, the phantom screw location, this is taken from the footwell looking at the headrest. I was able to undo it with a multi-bit screwdriver with a long bit that was a size smaller than the screw - made it easier to undo from an angle.
03-31-2009, 09:07 AM
. I ask them to replace the ignition swithch I will Pay for it, they said they have to scan to find problem first 
hoped the issue was the ignition switch.. Dealer quoted $250 for part/labor.. I found the part for $35 (free shipping), brand new.. rcv'd the part this morning..
