6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

The new ignition switch (Part# 35130-S84-A01)



Start by removing the fuse panel



Remove screw from the dash panel



Pull corner of dash panel loose



Unplug dash light dimmer switch



Pull on the bottom of the dash panel on the other side until you get it loose



Pull from here to get the last clip loose



Remove screws from the bottom of the steering column cover and then remove the top of it



Flip down tilt steering lock so you can slide the bottom part of the cover off



Unplug the brown plug (this is located under the left side of your dash)



Remove two screws



This is where I got to the "mystery screw" I found it but could not get to it for the life of me. If you lay down and look under steering wheel and follow the plastic cover (from the two screws removed in previous step) you can see it. I just snapped off the cover so I could remove the switch. I am going to tape the cover back on to keep the wires from being exposed.




Now you just slide out the ignition switch and install the new one. Put everything together back in reverse order.


The mess I made in my buddy's driveway

fsttyms1

Awesome!!!

Bob_F

I agree! Awesome photos!

I wish I had those photos available when I replaced the ignition switch in my 1999 TL.

That "mystery screw" caused me all sorts of grief since it wasn't supposed to be there according to the Helm manual. After I found it, I was able to remove it with a small 90 degree Philips ratchet screwdriver but it was a pain. I just left that screw out when I reassembled everything. (The two remaining screws hold the plastic bracket securely.)

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

Yea, I found that screw but just didn't have a tool small enough to get in there. The only thing I had close was a phillips head bit held by vice grips but I couldn't get enough leverage.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

...and Kris you can add it to the DIY thread whenever you get a chance (since it's currently closed)

Trackruner228

iTrader: (1)

Awesome.

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

thinhthan

i toke my car to acura to get the ignition switch check. i was hoping they will replace my ignition switch with a new one since it was in the recall. i found out that they already replace mines under recall. when i brought it in and got it check out they said it wasnt the ignition they said it was elecrical shit behind the ignition. is that right or they just didnt wanna replace the ignition for free?

ChrisQ1980

Nice DIY, thanks for posting it. The more we have the better we are at saving money doing it ourselves.

Bob_F

Acura will only replace the ignition switch once under the recall. So they're under no obligation to install another one for free.

But it's a pretty cheap part if you want to install it yourself and see if your electrical problems are solved.

What are you TL's symptoms?

thinhthan

when ever i drive it it sometimes shut off and i will have to jiggle the key for it to turn on

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

That's the ignition switch

thinhthan

and the dealer told me it was electrical prob behind the ignition switch. trying to rip me off for like 100

thinhthan

it seems like everytime the car shuts down on me like that i lose alot of gas to

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

What exactly were they trying to fix?

thinhthan

they said some electrical shit behind the ignition

thinhthan

would i be able to put a 03 ignition into my 99?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

That helps

thinhthan

well thats all they told me it was some electrical problem behind the ignition

Bob_F

I think the part is identical. Call your local Acura dealer parts department for confirmation.

Gfaze

Nice writeup! I see in the last pic that you have the essential beverageto prevent dehydration during the job.

numairrr

6MTUA5 "The new ignition switch (Part# 35130-S84-A01).

I'm having problems with my ignition switch too, and Acura had it replaced once before per the recall. I'm looking into buying a new one, but I'm confused as to which is the correct part. Contrary to the info I'm seeing here, I've read online that:

"Models that have had the ignition switch replaced under this recall should use switch 35130-S84-305 instead of the original 35130-S84-A01 switch."


Is this correct? Which is the correct part?


Thanks. And great DIY!

Bob_F

I think that the new part ID is the "-305" variant according to the following thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=35130-s84-305

So that would be the one to buy.

But you might want to call your local dealer's Parts Department to be sure.

smartypants

Hi All :

Just finished replacing the ignition switch on my 99tl. Not a bad job but because on one stupid screw, it doubles the time to replace it. A couple of additional details for the above great DIY instructions.

1) The plastic cover and the switch is held on by three screws (the red circled screw is NOT the mystery screw !) with the third one on the other side of the steering column (and here's the stupid part) oriented AWAY from the dashboard. So, you have to crawl underneath the steering column, looking back toward the trunk and try and get a small philips on to the head at an angle and try to back it out. One note of caution....make sure you get the right screw because there is another one right beside the one you want. How do I know this ? You can guess....

And yes, I put my mystery screw back in....

2) Check the orientation of actuator tab the with old switch as the new one will probably not line up and won't go in. Take a slot screw diver and using the two screw holes as reference, simply turn the slot to make them both the same. It should then just slide in.

Hope these additional tips helps everyone.

smartypants

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

For #2..
When I tried to put the new switch in, it wouldn't line up like you mentioned. I just put the key in the ignition and turned it until the switch would slide into place, then turned the key back to OFF and took it out.

Bob_F

The funny thing about the third "mystery screw" is that it's not identified in the Helm factory manual instructions for replacing the ignition switch.

Finding that screw was a real pain back in April of 2007 when I replaced my ignition switch. Here's a link to the post I made back then asking for help:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/problem-ignition-switch-replacement-616116/

And here's what I wrote when I figured it out:

Contrary to the information in the Helm service manual, in my TL there were three screws holding the black plastic cover piece in place.

The third screw, which was extremely difficult to see or reach, sat along the top of the cover along the path the ignition wires follow. I was able to feel the screw before I could see it. Sitting in the drivers seat, you can find the screw by running your hand from left to right along the upper part of the cover. (This is only possible, of course, after you've removed the upper and lower steering wheel covers.)

In order to actually see the screw, I needed to lie on my back under the steering column with my head near the accelerator pedal.

And removing it was a pain as it was difficult to reach directly with a screwdriver. I ended up using a compact 90 degree ratchet screwdriver to break it free. At that point I was able to spin the screw out with a regular screwdriver even though I couldn't insert it completely.

Once that screw was out, the cover came off very easily and I was able to replace the ignition switch without a problem. When I put everything back together I didn't even reinstall the third screw since the cover felt very secure without it.

The fact that I couldn't find any other comments or complaints about this third screw makes me wonder if it just wasn't installed in most second generation TLs. In my car the ignition switch was previously replaced under a recall. Perhaps the dealership installed the third screw at that point?

In any case, perhaps this post will help someone else in the same situation down the road!

saintwrath

SO SWEET!!! My 99 TL broke down right after I got out freeway (lucky), and I just followed this tutorial, easy as pie. Got the part for $49, changing it took 15mins. SWEET!

BTW, I filed complaints about this faulty part with NHTSA, BBB, against the dealer as well as Honda US, because the recall that changed the switch was only 6 yrs ago, and it burned again now. It was endangering me and my passengers' lives for the car to break down like this without warning. On top of the fact that its just a cheap part to replace, why can't they do a better job.

99TLhot

i got my change like 5000 mile ago, the stupid car keep shut off while im driving around town! kinda scary tho

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

It did shut off while driving or it still does after the replacement? If it still does, sounds like you got another faulty switch.

saintwrath

After my car broke down, I went to dealer as well as calling the stupid 1800 customer service, both wouldn't budge. So I filed complaint against Honda US and the dealer. 1 week later, dealer was calling and ask to do the service for free. By that time I already got the part and did it myself w/ this guide, so I took the receipt of the part and went down dealer, 5 mins later, they said they'd send me the check for the $51 I spent on the part. If I have the receipt for the labor, I would've gotten it reimbursed.

TRY AND FILE A COMPLAINT FIRST! Most of them wouldn't do sh1t if you ask them nicely, but once its on file, they'd do wutever it takes. It was their freakin fault for this unreliable switch that can seriously injure ppl.

99TLhot

after replace is fineeee!!!!!! but one time while driving on the high way like 80 mile and i saw my tach meter go to Zero and my TCS light come on, it kinda fick me out. I know alot of honda have that problem Too

tlzib

I figured I would post here rather than make a new thread. I just got my new switch and swapping it out and noticed the old switch has a yellow plastic clamp with a little piece of wire, the other end of the wire goes to a fuse.

Now the old one was a recall and also noticed the plastic piece was broken off not a big deal but haven't seen or read anyone else have that wire that goes to the fuse, its attached to the black wire with the yellow strip on the harness. Should I just swap the clamp and wire to the new switch or just leave it be?

thinhthan

i did this and now my car dont even turn on??

Bob_F

Does anything happen when you turn the ignition switch?

Did you disconnect the battery for the swap? If so, double check that everything is solidly hooked up.

fsttyms1

Yea but you also disconnected other wires that you think had to do with an alarm.

thinhthan

yes but nothing was hooked up to the wires though it was just the harness

tlzib

I just did it and everything is working fine so far. Removing the switch only should not effect anything, you must have accidentally unlpugged or moved something in the process.

thinhthan

ok i just checked my fuse in the engine bay and it was that i replaced it and now it works

fsttyms1

So you did this with the power connected?

6MTUA5

iTrader: (2)

I think I did it with the battery still connected and didn't blow any fuses