TL260power

My car is an 02 TL-S with 91k miles. The dealer said it needs to be replaced due to wear and tear. They also said it's leaking. I got my timing belt, drive belts, water pump and seals replace in Nov 2010. I guess my crankshaft was fine then. Because in order to replace the crankshaft they would need to take everything out again. They estimated $900 but can work down the price. Is it really that expensive? Thoughts or advice?

Thanks!

Diva 4 Life

A crankshaft doesn't leak. It's the front or rear engine seals that will leak. And, 900 seems expensive to to put in a seal, unless its the rear one. Where is your leak coming from??

01tl4tl

I think they didnt replace the front main crankshaft seal with the water pump job
its not required or usually needed--unless oil is seen dripping

Now its leaking, so they have to remove some of the same parts to fix
dealer labor is what there, $125-150 per hour??

VERY hard to believe you have a bad crankshaft itself,,have seen once in my life and only then on a bimmer.. with known soft metals

Was there noise or other problem- or just an oil leak? maybe oil at both ends of engine or undetermined locations?

If its really a bad crank, dont bother fixing this engine, there are other probs with it!!
Get a junkyard engine and swap over the new water pump etc, slide it in place and enjoy

A thought- ck the PCV, on rear side of engine above valve cover, near throttle
remove and shake--does it move freely like a can of spray paint?
or is it sludged inside and not working?

If clogged and not opening right, it is causing internal engine pressures- normally routed to the intake tube and thru the TB, to be forced out the path of least resistance

Thats most often the REAR main seal, you remove the trans to get to that
BUT could also push oil and pressure thru the front one as well

Ck that first! under 10 dollars and a trip thru the car wash to clean oil of the bottem may be your answer!!!

01tl4tl

if they think both seals are leaking that would explain the price
and their guys wont think pcv,,
see thread by dan lazer on subject of rear main leak,,but it was pcv

to replace a crankshaft, you remove the engine and dismantle = labor intensive
or drop the subframe and oil pan and go thru that way (maybe, not an expert on this)

01tl4tl

if pcv is good or repacement doesnt cure it, have another shop, not a dealer- look at it for you

reading your first post again I see leak was the issue,,and they said crank replacement?!
I keep typing `crack` because someone must be on it!!

Why was your car in the dealer? oil change or specific complaint by you?
help us out here,,car has been sitting a year?,,,,everything perfect till...
a little backstory goes a long way towards a good ~over the sky~ diagnosis
this is not a case where moving the modem closer will help

TL260power

First I was just getting my oil change done and then they discovered problems. So I did the oil change plus replaced oil pan gasket (oil pan leaking at gasket), and power steering pump O/Rings leaking (worn out leaking - replaced). They recommended T-Belt SVC w Crankshaft at first but since I already did the T-Belt water pump etc., now it's only the crankshaft. They also recommended Trans Flush, Brake Flush, Power steering flush, and Induction SVC which I think it's probably going by the book. Considering my mileage. They said the crankshaft would need to be replaced. Yeah resealing wouldn't cost that much.

By the way what is the crankshaft? What does it do? My bad for a noob question.

TL260power

I didn't know that there are more than one. I would assume it's where the water pump, timing belt, etc are located because he mentioned that they would have to removed the same parts again to change the crankshaft.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Crankshaft is the thing that spins, powering the entire drive train. As gas is burned, it explodes causing the pistons to move up and down. The pistons are directly attached to the crankshaft, which spins. This spinning stick powers EVERYTHING that the engine does.

If the crankshaft is failing, I would just get a new engine. That's weird. Did you just stop changing your oil? Use the wrong oil or something? They don't need replacement at any interval.

fsttyms1

You have to be misunderstanding them or didnt hear correctly. Its not something that the dealer inspects. They have to be talking about a seal.


If you had a worn crankshaft, odds are you would be getting a new motor.

uleiro

Replacing crankshaft only doesn't make sense. You might as well purchase a used longblock for the same price.

01tl4tl

trans `flush` = always a BAD idea,,do a manual drain and refill
ps fluid change/flush due everey 60kmiles,,easy DIY
Induction service- thats called a Seafoam treatment- or 2 cans via half tank of gas, done twice will do the same job

105 service they suggested based on miles,,same with the other stuff, doubt there is a real note from tech saying fluid is bad or they would have said its a priority fix today item!
again service writers make commission- thats how they live,,do you think they are 100% honest and working in your best interest???

speak with the service manager- who will call the actual tech in to discuss what was found

If they changed the oil pan seal then decided the crank seals were bad, thats their fault for doing lousy work
Odd for you to even need an oil pan seal!
ps orings do fail so thats reasonable

Where on Earth has this car lived???

01tl4tl

Im still going with clogged pcv valve
since they have been in there looking for oil leak

actually.. nor looking for leak- looking at where, not WHY

Skirmich

Woahh how the heck they even detected a Worn Crankshaft???? They have X-Ray or Removed Oil Pan???.... Must be a Seal most likely.

RC99TL

Sounds like it could be the front engine seal. Acura uses a sealer for the cover and after age they tend to weep around the right side (behind the a/c compressor). Mine has been leaking for about a year now but to remove and reseal the cover is not worth the expense at this point. I just wipe down the areas during oil changes. As long as oil is not getting on the timing or accessory belts you are ok. More of a nuisance than an issue.
You really need to get to another shop as it seems like the shops guesswork and misdiagnosis is coming at your expense. I bet that oil pan gasket was not leaking as they initially said and now you need need a crank/seals? Really? Where was the oil coming from then? I would ask for some kind of refund as they missed the real problem.
When I went for a front end alignment the tech told me I had a leaking oil pan gasket too!
Best way to see where the leak is coming from is clean the engine with a spray engine cleaner. Let dry thoroughly and douse with baby powder. Start up the engine and follow the damp area to the source. Do this before spending any more $!
And while I am on a roll here I need to comment on an earlier post that said fuel explodes in the combustion chamber. When the spark plug fires, the air/fuel mixture ignites in a rapid flame front. Think of a gas burner on a stove lighting but a whole lot faster. When the fuel explodes it is called detonation and is accompanied buy a metallic rattle (pinging).
And that is bad.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

I hate to say it, but it sounds like the service writer may be taking advantage of OP.

01tl4tl

if you look under your car after an oil change,,it often appears something is leaking
Thats from oil dripped out or dropped out of filter when it was removed, gets blown around...instant oil leak Sir!!

it was the dealer no less!! go speak with the SERVICE MANAGER about whats going on

260--are you young or female? the type some service writers try to bs more readily that say- a guy who goes in talking technical with knowledge/background
but even that doesnt matter, I told the service writer I used to do his job and was a tech,
no need to bs me!!, just find out whats wrong with the car and call me ( I knew it was trans under warranty)
So what happens when I get a call...bs bs bs
a quick chat with the manager solved that

TL260power

I'm going to call the service manager and come in and tell me exactly what's going on with my car because this is Bs..Before I go what are some key points I should ask or be aware of?

So far from the posts I can ask them:

How did they detect a worn crankshaft?
Crankshaft are not replaced at any interval?
Where is it leaking? Can you show me (I will be there in person)
Are you only sealing? If so why does it cost so much just to do that?

TL260power

I've used seafoam before. About 5 years ago I think. Poured in engine and gas tank.

Umm no.. Of course not. You're right. They bs all the time. That's why before I did anything I came here for answers.

I'm actually going to set up an appointment to speak with the service manager and bring in my car again. Sounds like a good idea or should I call and speak with the SM by phone?

My car has been here in Va since 07 but I drove it to Orlando to attend school. I was about 2-3 months late on time (May 2011) but shy in mileage for my next oil change. I still had like a thousand miles left before I needed to come in. I use mobil 1 synthetic.

TL260power

31 guy but I look younger.
Yep nothing but bs...I also have headers and an intake. Could this maybe affect the problem or no?

01tl4tl

take to to a self serve car wash with a can of gunk engine cleaner
get all the oil cleaned off, drive a few days and take it to another small private owner shop for inspection

Were you losing oil? if you were inside 12 months on that oil you were fine

did you get a receipt with the needed items listed? that will help us figure out if they mean seals or actual crankshaft

call the SM and tell them you dont understand whats needed, they can research it and may have you bring it back in

TL260power

Yea I will do that. At first it said T-Belt & Crankshaft - $1,400. Now since I already change my T-Belt, they quoted $900. So you mean spray and clean the bottom? How can I do that without a lift? Or jack it up?

01tl4tl

take some cardboard and lay on the ground if you dont have ramps
or jack one front corner to give you some room to work

use low pressure rinse only- not the blast!!

ck cans of engine cleaner- some allow use cold only- get one thats good on warm engine, unless you can do this at home- on the lawn,,
but not the best idea when oil is known

car wash places have filters in the drain water for that reason

01tl4tl

none of their prices make any sense

other than the cover mentioned above gets a `sealant` -
the normal seals are round rubber that push into place and surround the crankshaft where it exits the engine

there is no known wearout of the crankshaft itself on the TL,,
the engine would rattle and run so bad --you would be writing this from the side of the road~

TL260power

Going today. Will let you know exactly what's wrong.

TL260power

Update: Just came back from the dealer and they said that it is the sealant that will need to be resealed. It's not a big issue right now but it's something I will have too when I do my next T-Belt, Water pump service. Which in this case it will be at 180k. It was just something they wanted me to know about and be aware of. As far as why it cost a lot is because of where it is located in the engine. The hours of labor it would take to get the job done, 6-8 hrs. Their labor is $117hr. He recommends to do when I go my next big maintenance, 180k, because it's around the same area where the T-belt, water pump are located and it will be cheaper to do all at once.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

#24 on the link below?

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

RC99TL

Yup same leak as mine. I figure if I keep the TL until the next timing belt service (270k) I will pull the cover replace the crank seal and seal up that cover but good.
Funny how the dealer figured it out...