tycamry94

iTrader: (1)

hey, i have an 02 tl base with a torn cv boot and was wondering if the driver side outer boot replacement is difficult? or if i should take it to a shop?

01tl4tl

chances are if the boot is torn then all the grease has come out and dirt and grit has gone in----ruining the bearing

Best way is replace the entire axle assembly with new boots and bearings included- try NAPA for good price- under 100$

Let a private shop replace it if you are not familiar with the job and have the right tools.
about 1 hour labor charge

rcb2000

if it it hasn't been torn long it's fine to replace the boot only, just clean it out good first then you have new grease with the boot to add, but you do have to have a special tool for the bands to do the job so you either buy one or replace the half shaft. They both cost about the same anyway.

but it's pretty easy to change the whole axil assembly yourself. just pop the ball joint loose, remove the nut on the CV smack the end of the CV to free it from the spline using a piece of brass, lift up on the strut and push the half shaft out of the wheel bearing, then pop the inner CV loose with a pry bar and your ready to install the new one.

just don't pop a hole in the transmission's case prying on it.

tycamry94

iTrader: (1)

alright sounds good, thanks both of you for the posts

TLer trash

I second this one. I don't think rebooting is time well spent for someone with experience, let alone a rookie. As I recall some outer joints are not designed to come apart. With this design, you have to take apart the inner joint, slide the outer boot off the inside, clean and regrease the outer without being able to dissasemble and inspect it. Labor has gotten expensive, axles have gotten cheap.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

x2 easier to just put a rebuilt axle in, then the shop actually rebuilding it, the cost of axle is easily offset by the additional labour

maybe if you catch it within an 100 miles or so, but it still be a worn joint , so why not just put a new/rebuilt axle in it's place

01tl4tl

napa had complete axle assemblies with all new parts for $75 a few years ago--ck the current price

If you caught it within 100 miles it might be ok to clean repack and keep going.
my experience with boot kits has not been good, so replace is my first choice

Depends on how much b.s. you like to go thru trying to band-aid something thats a critical part--if it stops or comes loose (the entire wheel can depart the car)
and you have some exciting moments as the car comes to a screeching halt...

Be glad you found it now before it had major failure
CV Boots are something to inspect at oil change time!!

desired_speeds

I would actually recommend replacing the boots only as I have had problems before with aftermarket axles. OEM axles are the way to go unless the boot has been ripped for a while already. rebooting an axle is actually quite easy. Add another 30-45 mins onto removing the axle itself and you'll have two brand new boots. The dealership sells CV boot kits that can be had for not very much.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

even then i when i did my axles on my old 94 accord, i got rebuiolt axles stiaght from honda, and i think those were only like $166 each with a 3 year/36,000 mile warrenty
so a rebuilt OEM axle

btw 30-45 minutes is a little high cause it is like 10-15 miutes at max extra for the driver side, and like 30 minutes extra for the passenger side (if the both shafts for that side come as one, otherwise only like 10-15 minutes extra too)

tycamry94

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the insight, butt i got one last question after i get the new axle and cv boot installed do i need to check the alignment if its not pulling or anything?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

alignment should not change after replacement, all you are doing is disconnecting the lower ball joint; for access;, then reconnecting it, and no adjustment bolts or anything is being changed or moved

but if it is pulling currently or something, then yes you need an alignment, but it won't be related to the axle (maybe a little bit, but it be so little, not worth worrying about; from say decreasesd turning resistence of the axle shaft itself)

01tl4tl

the key is when you have it apart to inspect the bearings and especially the bearing race- where it rides, any spec of grit with cause severe grindage in the race and trash the ball bearings-
this is a most critical joint bearing, like your hip in its action of rotation and lateral movement--riding a bycycle motion of your hip is what the cv must do all the time, rotate in a circle and take angles and absorb load thru road bumps

you must get all the old grease and possible contamination out before repacking the grease

Look at the surrounding area to know if a little or a lot of grease has come out and how long the boot has been torn, evidenced by dust buildup on oil/grease thats been flung out
Its not much grease to repack the bearing to capacity- maybe 4 oz per bearing

at best the boot is a bandaid in most cases- if you need a few months to get finances together- it will usually do that for you

If its making click click or whirring noises or banging or it turns roughly in your hand on inspection- replace the assembly
NAPA auto parts uses all new parts and has a good rep

tycamry94

iTrader: (1)

thanks thanks

Stimpy

Sorry I'm resurrecting this thread...

About a year ago I had noticed I had a torn outer CV boot, so I replaced the right half-shaft because -- like 01tl4tl -- I have had bad experiences with replacement boots. Had the alignment done right after just to be sure. 6 months later I had tires replaced/balanced and also opted for alignment because it was pulling to the right. I'm still experiencing a pull to the right and it came back almost immediately after my most recent re-alignment. Anybody think that this torn boot has worn one or more of my joints/bearings on my RF, causing the drift? If it's a worn bearing, which one(s)?

01tl4tl

swap the front tires left to right and see if the pull follows, then its a tire

no cv wont wear out other parts like that