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car stalls out when placed in gear

 
Old 04-03-2013, 03:02 PM
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car stalls out when placed in gear

As of yesterday when coming to a stop at a stoplight or stop sign the rpms jump around from 500 to 1500 then eventually even out or at times it will stall out and die altogether. Same thing when switching gears from 1st to 2nd or 2 to 3, 3 to 4, rpms drop much too low, car stutters, as the rpms rise the it evens out. When initially starting the car, it idles fine in park or neutral, when moved into gear D or R it dies every time, not immediately though it feels like when you're driving a stick and you come off the clutch to fast without enough gas. It'll start back up with no issue and idle fine until placed in gear again, if I give it some gas immediately after putting it in gear it'll stutter then even out as the rpms increase. 99tl-p, no lights on, all fluids fine aside from oil, it's a little low and dirty so def in need of changed, tranny fluid good, still red, mostly type f, slips a little between gears but hasn't gotten any worse in last year or so. I have no idea where to start looking so hoping someone may have had a similar issue and can point me in the right direction.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:33 PM
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type F fluid? why not honda dw1
slipping for a year and now dies when load applied,,,think trans
but look at egr system clogging, ck plugs
any codes?
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:08 PM
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transmission was my first thought as well but had never heard of them crapping out like this, have heard of them completely locking up or slipping to the point it's underivable... read up on egr and will start there since I've never cleaned it, will also check plugs.... engine light was on prior but I know why and resolved it, reset disconnecting battery and drove it 10-15 mins and it never came back on... working late today so won't be able to mess with it until tomorrow, until then of course I'm open to additional thoughts or options so I can just make a checklist and go down it until its resolved, thanks for your reply btw
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:55 PM
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Yeah, give it a tune up using NGK plugs. Clean the EGR, intake and ISC valve. Check the DIY's or search for previous threads concerning this.

If ya wanna do the tranny right, dump the Type F and do the drain & fill using Honda DW1. It may take a total of three of these to get the old fluid out.
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:22 PM
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Hmmm....sounds like the same symptom I had with another car with a dirty egr valve that was intermittently sticking. It's easy to remove the egr valve, clean it with lots of carb cleaner. You need a new gasket too. Hopefully it's something easy like that.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:16 PM
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Sweet! Thanks for the comments guys, I'd feared that I wouldn't get any and would be working on the car blind tomorrow with no idea where to start. The consensus seems to be start with the egr, valve and IAC so I'll do that first think in the morn, weather permitting. I'll also change the plugs as well. After doing some reading NGK iridium seems to be what everyone recommends however looks as if my local auto zone is out of them, they have autolite brand for 7 bucks a piece, Bosch for roughly double that and also those brands in platinum. Should I stick with NGK and get the platinum or I definitely want iridium, if so can I go with the cheaper iridium plugs or is it recommended I get a name brand?
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:59 AM
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Stick with the "NGK"s !!!
If ya can't wait on the iridium's, go with the regular platinum's which would be a better choice than the other brands. They are normally pregapped. Apply a small amount of anti-seize on the first threads.
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:04 AM
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Start with cleaning of the Throttle Body and IACV. If it continues it may also be the TPS sensor.
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:23 PM
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Drove the car to the parts store to get the plugs n carb cleaner, of course still doing the same thing, about 10 miles round trip, still no engine light. Went ahead n thru the plugs in, easy as pie except for the rear pass side. Appears to be original plugs, they were in bad shape, rear driver side had oil on it. Started it up without issue, idles about 750 rpm, put it in gear, stalled out, tried it again let it idle for a few mins, same result. So altho the plugs were bad, doesn't appear they were the culprit. Removed intake, tb, iacv and manifold, egr port of course was filthy, tab and iacv weren't too bad but went ahead n gave them a good spray n wipe down. Rinsed manifold, waiting on it to dry, will report back with results.
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:50 PM
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'99 EGR systems were really prone to clogged passageways....make sure that ya got the ports clean to the valve. Doublecheck the wiring and vacuum lines. If ya get a code, it would help....maybe a bad coil ?
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:45 PM
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after getting everything reassembled still no change. no cel, same symptoms, any other suggestions?
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:26 AM
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Hey Chuckton, if ya tried everything as previously suggested.....then have the electrical system load tested.
Check all grounds, wiring connections and relays.

Also check your coolant level, if it's low....have the system pressure checked for leaks.
There may be trapped air causing problems with the ECT sensors.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:25 AM
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A "spray and wipe down" wont clean those egr ports. You need to stick a coat hanger or something like that through them and get the crap out. It will take a bit of time, it's a 99 so there's a ton of shit in there.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:08 PM
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yeah that's what I did. it was filthy, took 2 cans of carb cleaner and a couple hours. Added some fuel injection cleaner this morning and it runs a lot better, can put it in gear without it dying but still misfires at low rpms but only when in gear, idles fine when in park. Wondering if its injectors now, although if it was I'd think I'd get a cel or rough idling in park.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:13 PM
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Oh....so cleaning the egr ports did make it better! I hope you cleaned the main egr port that goes thru the block and to the base of the EGR valve itself. You need lots of carb cleaner and to snake a coat hanger through that wormhole. And I hope you also removed the EGR valve itself and cleaned it thoroughly....ditto for the IACV valve.
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:01 PM
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Go back in, check your work.....maybe more cleaning.
Make sure that all of the electrical and vac connections are tight.
Have the fuel pressure checked if nothing else works.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:43 PM
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so let me guess.. coming to a stop.. rpm drop.. car die..!!

clean your IACV
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:08 AM
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Have you checked all the connections around your air filter? Do you have CAI or stock? Definitely sounds like a vacuum leak; but I haven't experienced any issues with EGR or IACV so I don't know the symptoms of those problems.
My car has these issues if I drive without an air filter because I need to let it dry (CAI) after cleaning.
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:28 AM
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Sticking torque converter clutch. Hook up to parts store scanner and look at live data, see if TCC is on or off while in park then shift to drive.

edit, nvm just saw egr ports helped it stalling in gear
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:09 AM
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I seem to be having the same issue with my car and don't know what it is. I have done all the recommended cleaning of the intake manifold, iacv, egr ports and still the same issue. I also did some fuel system cleaner which seemed to help for a few days and then back to stalling/dying. No CEL's ever and my car is at the shop right now getting diagnosed. Hoping it's not the tranny. Could a really bad vacuum motor mount cause this issue? I know I need to replace mine but not sure if that would cause an issue this severe. Thoughts?
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:00 PM
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I got a call back from the mechanic. It seems the fuel pump took a crap.
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Old 04-05-2019, 04:28 PM
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Car stalls or dies when stopping fine in neutral or park

my car stalls or die when I come to stop
only works fine while driving or in park or neutral
its almost like torque converter clutch do not want to release
it feels almost like you would use both pedals gas and brake at the same time
itís just like like if you would have manual transmission and stop the car without Applying a clutch and will just kill the engine
it also gets worse when transmission gets warmer
itís little bit better after cold start and itís not pulling so hard
i know already that my transmission donít have tc clutch solenoid
i also want to mention that I had my transmission rebuild and only did 3000 miles but it was sitting for so long that the warranty is over
hoping someone can help
i think these pictures shows my transmission



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