Brakes making squeeking noise

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Old 05-22-2014, 09:51 AM
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Brakes making squeeking noise

So I have a '99 Acura TL and a few weeks back the front right started making a squeeling/squeeking noise whenever I pressed on the brakes. It would do it at basically any speed, even really slow.

I had the rotors and pads replaced just 6 months ago so I am having a hard time believing it is that. Also, I took it to the Meineke around the corner and they said the rotors and pads looked fine and they had no idea what was causing the sound (of course). He said it could be glazing so I had them sand down the pads a little but the sound is still there and getting worse over time.

Sometimes it will even do it now when I am not braking, but have just released the pedal. Any advice would be great!

Thanks
Old 05-22-2014, 09:56 AM
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clean and lube the caliper slider pins
ck correct torque on caliper bolts and bracket bolts
How long since brake fluid flushed?

might have a simple bent wear tab -that is attached to inner pad and touches rotor when pad low,,get knocked around or was not set right to begin with....
what pads and rotors are you using? quality or budget
Do you lightly drag the car to a stop- or lots of stop and go traffic?

ridge on the outer edge of rotor where pad doesn't touch can build up and as pad moves slightly=noise
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:03 AM
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All that he said and i would also add a brake pad lube or glue or whatever it is to the back of the pad wherever it touches the mounting points as well as where the piston applies pressure.
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:52 AM
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I would go back to meinecke and ask them to do the job. A little lube on the slide pins and on the back of the pads themselves go a long way.
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Old 05-22-2014, 04:58 PM
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Were the stainless backing shims for the pads replaced along with the caliper guides ?
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Old 05-23-2014, 07:28 AM
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Ok, thanks everyone!

To answer some questions --

"01tl4tl" - Brake fluid hasn't been flushed in awhile.
They are definitely budget rotors and pads, I got them from autozone and had a (knowledgeable) friend install them.
There is quite a bit of stop and go traffic on my commute every day.

"3.2TLc" - The backing shims and caliper guides were likely not replaced

Is what you are all suggesting stuff I can do relatively easy myself? I'll start looking around the forums for how to get started on all that was mentioned.

Thanks!
Old 05-23-2014, 08:10 AM
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Go to an auto parts store and pick up some caliper grease for the sliders and some anti-squeal to put on the back of the pads. Make sure the pads arent getting stuck in the slots in the caliper causing them to slightly hang.
Old 05-23-2014, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jcka22
Ok, thanks everyone!

To answer some questions --

"01tl4tl" - Brake fluid hasn't been flushed in awhile.
They are definitely budget rotors and pads, I got them from autozone and had a (knowledgeable) friend install them.
There is quite a bit of stop and go traffic on my commute every day.

"3.2TLc" - The backing shims and caliper guides were likely not replaced

Is what you are all suggesting stuff I can do relatively easy myself? I'll start looking around the forums for how to get started on all that was mentioned.

Thanks!
Brakes are not hard to change out just take your time. Also considering its a part of routine maintenance you might as well get familiar with it. check out this link is should help you out. Just make sure you have all the tools needed.


Tools:
Your common rachet set should suffice.
Disk brake caliper tool
I would use a strong or solid flat wrench since you probably dont have your old brakes to push the piston back ( you will see what i mean in the video)

And when your done before you take off pump your brakes till they are stiff again.
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jcka22 (05-27-2014)
Old 05-23-2014, 02:08 PM
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Probably the most important statement on brake work ^^^^^

PUMP the pedal until it has brakes before engaging in gear!!
This is a mistake you never want to make!

Note the slider clips should be replaced at each pad change- comes with brake pads or a few dollars for the kit. Those hold the pad in place and tension to reduce noise

cleaning the metal sliders where the tabs on end of pads sit is critical- remove, clean and apply light amount of caliper grease to them- that's where the motion of the pads occurs and its just the inner part- pads move very little in use- but in the same place over and over

use caliper grease on pad back where it meets the caliper piston or bracket fingers on outer side. See old pad for wear marks
Wipe caliper piston edge clean but do not lube- just the pad backs is sufficient without adding more- which gets on the rubber seal and attracts crud and dirt,,that stuff you just cleaned out

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 05-23-2014 at 02:11 PM.
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:17 PM
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I did all of the above except replace the shims and the noise still persists. The brake pads they sold me are semi-metallic, should they be ceramic instead? Been reading and it seems that the OEM pads are ceramic.

Thanks
Old 05-27-2014, 04:00 PM
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^ Should start with that... Semi-Metallic pads aren't made for Luxury Cars as they make a lot of nosie, One of the properties of Ceramic is incredible noise reduction and the TL comes Standard with them..


Going Semi-Metallic is almost a downgrade if they weren't more bitey, Ceramic slips a little in the early breaking as to make no noise.. Semi Pads just engage giving 2 damns about it.
Old 05-27-2014, 04:26 PM
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zone rotors and semi met pads are fine for stop and go, especially the grabbing right away part! I never run ceramics

there is an issue in the parts or lube sections
have your buddy go back and ck all the things mentioned

replace the `kit` of caliper springs and guides, lube lightly
those all work to keep pad in position and allow motion of it,,small often overlooked parts- start there and flush the fluid system!!!!

while `bedding` the basic zone pads is not required, the constant low speed dragging of brakes in traffic will cause pad material buildup
bedding will fix that- its causing a thin layer of pad material to transfer and adhere to the rotor- when the pad contacts its own material on rotor = brake effectiveness is increased
drag/lots of stop go will cause a glaze on the pad face
its very dangerous to sand the pad face -breathing stuff
but
if there is a point on the pads edge making contact before the rest, buff that off and noise-be-gone..
Old mechanics trick was to grind new pads edge off so its angled, like good pads are made now..not sure about zone pads so its another thing to inspect

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 05-27-2014 at 04:28 PM.
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