Skirmich

I Dunno why im getting my Rotors heavily heated in Normal Driving is "RODONCULOUS"! My Rotors come back to home Smoking Black every day and my Rear Rotors in normal Color, This is with normal stop and go traffic, No Racing or Speeding, Cool and Lay back Driving.

I have checked a 1000 Times this:
1.- Fluid Levels and Air Bubbles.
2.- Sticky Bolts or Un-greased bolts.
3.- The Rubber thingys doesnt have a Vacuum Leak.

NOTHING! All stuff is Okay.

My Setup:
EBC 3GDC Rotors with less than 8000K
EBC RedStuffs with less than 5000K
Goodridge SS Lines x4 (Excellent Condition at plain sight).
MOTUL DOT 5.1 Brake Fluid BRAND NEW.


IM WONDERING IF THIS IS NORMAL? Im asking for the guys with the Swap... Cuz im worring if im giving a beat out of my EBCs...

01tl4tl

no its not normal
Bolt torque spec used on caliper and bracket?
what do the pads look like- cracking- actual heat?

the legend calipers should be mounted on `opposite side as marked`,
L caliper goes on passenger side, R on driver side
with the bleeder nipple at top like normal

the bleed order is LF left front/driver front then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR

since the lines were opened, you MUST do 2 full stops from 45mph with the ABS active--pumping wildly under your feet slammed on pedal
stomp the brakes in wet or loose traction area, swerve quickly as if going around a car and back into your lane, that will make the ABS operate
What happens is air gets into the controller and only way out is to first operate the system- then rebleed brakes

after the first stop immediatly accellerate to 45mph and repeat test
If the 2nd time had firmer pedal- there was air trapped and now you can get it out

if your rotor is getting hot, I suspect caliper is sticking partially on
remove and ck operation- place a block of 2x4 wood inside the caliper and have buddy push brake pedal
are they correct rotor width for your gen TL?

01tl4tl

with the car on a jack, (trans in N and use a wheel block so car doesnt get away!)
spin the wheel, does it make dragging noise or hang up anywhere in the rotation?
and when buddy applies brake slightly?

fsttyms1

really sounds as though the pads are in constant contact with more pressure than normal

totaledTL

Calipers binding or sticking. Reinspect.

3.- The Rubber thingys doesnt have a Vacuum Leak <--wtf

Did Legend cal. swap w/ EBC pads & rotors 3+ yrs. ago & works great.

01tl4tl

you are using the same ebc pads as OP?
wondering if they changed the material thickness?
call josh at Excelerate for info like that

this was a `new installation` of rebuilt legend calipers? bought from where?
all the parts went on at the same time roughly?

01tl4tl

the rubber boots on the 2 bolts holding the caliper to its bracket--those are not vacuum related
BUT
those bolts MUST be greased and move in and out freely, so the caliper will move!
the boots just protect the grease
if way overtorqued and dry--they wont allow caliper to retract properly or fully (good guess)

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

This is what I was gonna mention too...grease/regrease the sliding pins.

And were these brand new calipers?

Skirmich

Yeah Brand new both of them from Autozone, Rebuilted of Course. Both of them Arrived at the Same time in those little white boxes from Raybestos, Do I take a Pic of them?

Well I bought the EBCs Rotors for my Car 2G TL-S, If I Should guess they are the same size....

I Inspect the Sliding Bolts yet again they are Fully Greased with Caliper Grease not another junk.

Did Everything that 01tl04tl told me when I was first installing them. Follow it to the letter.
Left Caliper on Right Wheel and vice-versa.
ABS Pump stops and such.

Im about to do the jack stuff to see if they are contacting when they shouldn´t.



Just to be Sure what its the Recommended Tq for the Caliper Bolts??


If I should take a blind guess Here, If I go back to the Yellow Stuffs this would go Away... I should do some research and put back my Old and Busted Yellow Stuffs to see if my "Normal Driving" isnt suited to the Red Stuffs... Im installing them This Night and will Report tomorrow for trip Work and Back Home for Results....

gold2003tl (90)

i have red stuff pads and dont have any of the problems you mentioned. you are using legend pads for your legend calipers, correct?

Skirmich

Woaaa thats were my problem may be!! Do I had to do it?? I tought I could use my TL Pads!! Crap....

Skirmich

Wait:
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636713

Sooo Do I need Legend Pads or Not??

gold2003tl (90)

im not sure, but i thought iv heard talk that legend pads were needed, i guess not.

01tl4tl

NOOOOOOO on the legend pads!!!!!!!!!!!!!
,,I have seen them tried and they dont fit right in the TL bracket


Use TL rotors TL pads TL Brackets
ONLY the calipers are for the legend

we throw out the giant metal clip that fits inside the legend calipers - that may interfere on the TL --seen it done both ways but suggest toss that clip,,it fits legend pads~

gold2003tl (90)

thanks for setting it straight 01tl4tl, i must have been confused.

totaledTL

Cannot be both "Brand new" & "Rebuilted"- either new or rebuilt. Almost certainly remanufactured.

farmdevil

Are you certain that your rear brakes are operating? Bad rears won't do it by themselves, but I have seen front brake heat problems (on a couple cars) due to inadequate help from the back. I suppose that coupled with a sticky front caliper, for example, could lead to problems that aren't obvious by looking strictly at the front end.

I've had Legend calipers with PowerSlot Cryo rotors and Hawk HPS pads for a year now with no problems whatsoever.

Skirmich

Itll be Much help to know the exact Tq for the Calipers! Im trying with my Old Yellows Stuffs to see whats what.

But If im about to pin out all options I wanna be Exact Accurate with the Tq-ft for the Caliper Bolts as well!

Ahh yeah its a Remanufactured ones Recommended by 01tl4tl, Removed the Center Clip just like he Said! These are the Actual Boxes:


Ok im Sitting with the TL Pads then!

Input Much Apreciated!

Skirmich

Ive checked the Manual it calls for 36ft-lb can someone please confirm this is the same for the Legend Bolts?

01tl4tl

thats correct, and the bracket to strut are ~ 60

I use 40 caliper, 60 bracket front brakes
and 20 caliper (spec 18) and 40 bracket rear brakes
simple mind = can remember simple numbers, and within allowable margin for tool error

totaledTL

Using lg. ctr. clip, no issues.

01tl4tl

I have had 1 clip make noise- it was bent a little in shipment iirc
and another car with clips and no prob

they are not needed- they do push the pads down slightly so I guess thats a bonus?
but
since the TL came without them....and we are using TL pads....

Skirmich

Well im at Work now, Brake Improved dramatically with the Yellow Stuffs but I cant really tell until I do the Nightmare traffic on my Way Home! Ill post at 4 pm..

totaledTL

You can't tell if they are dragging?

1. Drive, at least 10 min. or so then stop. Go around & put your hand near ea. wheel to chk. for excessive heat; make relative comparisons.

2. Find a very slight incline to park on (some driveways, for instance). Place transm. in neutral & see if it will begin to roll. If not something is dragging.

Skirmich

@TotaledTL
Ive check it like 01tl4tl said with the car on jacks to see if they were touching but no go..

Also:

Dudes! Problem Solved!!! FTFW Yellow Stuffs! with only -25% Life it stopped my Black Rotors! they come in perfectly at home...

I cant believe just a Pad can make such a difference, But Brake Improved and My Black Rotors are gone. Im ordering new pads now cuz they are very low... SCREW RedStuffs... Only Bad Tough! Dust come back as well...

Thanks for your Inputs Guys you were of much help!

totaledTL

Skirmich

I Dunno either but stuff´s back to Normal... Beats Me.

Neejay

iTrader: (3)

so your consensus is that the red stuff pads was causing your problem?

I don't know man...sounds like you may not have the problem anymore because of how low the old pads are...vs. the newer pads with more meat which would cause more drag (if something is in fact sticking).

Please update the thread once you install the new yellow stuff pads!

01tl4tl

with the caliper in a `normal retracted position`- after braking/release of pedal-
the pads should sit approx 1mm off the rotor surface--ready to be pulled into action again

Skirmich

Yup I dunno the Pad arent toasted to plain sight (I Mean the RedStuffs) and they are like 85% Life compared to Yellows less than 20%...

Im home right now and I have the car outside can look perfectly both Rotors of the right side they are now even in color tough having a pair of Yellows in Front and RedStuffs on back really put the BIAS in some wierd state but I dont have the rear yellows anymore so they will have to be as is for the moment.

No wierd sounds or scratching sounds (That the Yellows had before with the OEM Caliper they are gone now).
But DUST ohhh Man Im missing right now the RedStuffs... It looks like I did an OffRoad tour with the TL on the front wheels....

01tl4tl

wash and wax the rims with 2-3 coats SYNTHETIC car wax (higher melt point than carnuba wax)
that will keep the first layer of brake dust from grabbing on- then additional layers have no grip...

Skirmich

Alright, Which Brands you Recommend? I have heard good things of "Meguiars FX" which do you use?.