yody

Man, there are so many kits with all kinds of different water pumps etc... is there any specific kit that everyone goes with? I'm 156K on orig belt, stype, and the belt still looks good (took a peek) but I'm getting real nervous. I'm doing some other maintenance as well (koni yellow shocks and rear main seal) so budget is tight. I was just gonna cheap it and do just the belt for a piece of mind but now I'm thining if its cheap enough throw the whole kit on there (I can do the work myself no problem)

Gabru678

iTrader: (1)

Right, I have been posting the same in a thread I started here (link1)

And you can find solutions in the DIY thread such as this thread (link2)

And at 156K I too would be worried about it. And If you are doing the Rear main seal you may as well get it all done at once (might even be cheaper Vs. going back for it at another time)

victus1

The best and highest quality timing belt kit is the one with OEM components, such as that you get from the dealer. You can also get these same OEM components in the Aisin tkh-001 kit for under $200. This is what I installed.

01tl4tl

at this age its important to replace ALL the tensioners and idler/roller pullies
When one fails on new belt, or water pump fails, there goes all your investment in the tbelt job
do it once, do it all and its done right = peace of mind and higher resale value a few years from now

the rear main seal removes transmission to access seal
has nothing to do with the 105 job

01tl4tl

at 150+ its a really good idea to adjust valves
that can combine with clean egr ports and service iacv in throttle body
basically clean and make it run like new for another 100kmiles+

that aisin kit victis suggest is widely used among ziners
supposed to be same exact part but in plain white box~
same name on oe part....

yody

I just did a valve adjust not too long ago, weren't too out of spec (surprisingly).

I know rear main is seperate but I'm trying to do everything at once.

I'll look at that aisin kit

yody

What belt comes with the aisin kit?

3.2TLc

Hey Yody, do one project at a time. Focus on the T-belt and all the other associated parts first.

Then once ya have time to take a breather and make sure that everything is ok, take on the rear main if it is leaking badly. Make sure that your tranny is in good condition, as now would be an ideal opportunity to drop in the AV6 tranny if your old tranny is on the edge.

When was the last time that the PCV valve had been replaced ? Try replacing the old one with a new "OEM" valve. Maybe try a specially formulated high mileage oil in the next higher viscosity to help control the seepage at the rear main.

victus1

The OEM Mitsuboshi Japanese belt with Koyo bearings. These belts can make it to 150k+ no problem. But my concern is mostly on the mechanical parts, like the bearings and tensioners and water pump.

Gabru678

iTrader: (1)

But the one thing to remember is that the Asin kits dont come with Crank or Cam Seals. Like the one I found here:http://www.ebay.com/itm/AISIN-WATER-PUMP-TIMING-BELT-KIT-2003-2008-ACURA-HONDA-3-0L-3-2L-3-5L-3-7L-V6-/251162591382?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7a750096&vxp=mtr

victus1

The crank seals are cheap from the dealer. I wouldn't mess with aftermarket on critical components with tight tolerances and proper materials such as these.

The crank seal is easy to change. The cam seals are next to IMPOSSIBLE, unless you perhaps have a high torque air gun. Just look on youtube at the hoops folks go through to break loose those cam sprocket nuts.

TLer trash

^^^What he says. Plus, with the cams turning at 1/2 engine rpm, they have less wear, and they seldom go bad. If you really wan't to be pro-active, replace the seal between the oil pump and the block. I'm starting to see more and more of these things go bad a year or two after you've done the timing belt.

victus1

Oh....and IF you manage to break loose the cam sprocket nuts....good luck trying to torque them down to spec. Maybe the dealer has a special tool or template to hold these sprockets in place for removal and replacement. But I couldn't readily come up with a way to do so. I would need to spend hours playing around with it.

yody

I hate replacing the oil seals but I'll do the crank one since you can get good access to drive the new on one. ......I've gotten cam sprocket bolts off no problem, you have to crack them loose when the old timing belt is still on, hold the motor by the crank pulley bolt, and use an impact on the cam bolt

Also I can't seem to find that Aisin kit for under $220 Shipped, does that sound about right?

Gabru678

iTrader: (1)

I found an Aisin kit here for $189.

So He will be fine just getting this one and then just getting the cam and crank seals from the dealer?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AISIN-WATER-PUMP-TIMING-BELT-KIT-2003-2008-ACURA-HONDA-3-0L-3-2L-3-5L-3-7L-V6-/251162591382?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7a750096&vxp=mtr

victus1

Of course, when using an impact gun you don't need much to hold the cam sprockets. The impact does all the work. I've seen a powerful 3/4" impact gun remove cam sprockets with no timing belt on while the user was holding the sprockets with their hand.

If you try this with a breaker bar and pipe extension with the timing belt on, you will strip the timing belt teeth as the sprocket slips. Ask me how I know...

victus1

Yep, that's the one. The seals are cheap from the dealer, especially the online dealers in our sponsor section.

rkpatt

Just curious , I was looking at a TB kit that had GMB Japan (tenisoner, roller), Honda OEM hydraulic tensioner, Gates Japan TB, NPW water pump.

My question is whether the GMB (tensioner, roller) rolling parts are acceptable (as good and Koyo) ?

-thanks

victus1

The tensioner is just as important as the timing belt. If it goes....kiss the engine goodbye. You may want to google search that product to see if there's any complaints. You can use it, but OEM is always the best (most reliable) on mission critical parts.

3.2TLc

Yeah, the OEM sourced parts are proven reliable and are always the best choice.
There's probably not much savings difference in the part's initial cost to really justify risk.
But, the important thing is to replace all the miscellaneous additional parts when having the T-belt replaced.