Chojun

Hey Guys,

My Timing Belt is overdue and so I've decided I'm going to end up doing it myself after all since I can't get a quote for less than ~$1200. Might as well get it done for cheaper and pick up some tools to boot, AND get it done right. AND replace some other parts in the area (like side engine mount, other stuff) and still be cheaper than just the TB at any mechanic or dealer.

I've been struggling with going the air route or electric route. What's everyone's thoughts on this?

Cost of entry on the air tools seems higher because of the compressor, but the tools themselves seem to be cheaper than electric.

Lately I've been leaning on picking up one of these (to get the crank pulley bolt off):

I would use it like crazy on all the other maintenance my cars need. Eventually I would get an electric ratchet to go along with the impact wrench.

Thanks in advance for the advice. At this point I can be convinced to go either way.

Skirmich

I´ve done 2x with my Milwaukee High Torque cordless impact wrench to remove the crank bolt (In my TL-S and MDX) and it removes it like it was nothing.
Needless to say when comparing Electric vs Air Impact Wrench there is no contest, Electric puts to shame any Air Impact Wrench.

08KBP_VA

By electric you all are only referring to cordless right?

Chojun

Yeah cordless. I'm looking at the Milwaukee M18 Fuel series - although that series doesn't have the equivalent of an air ratchet (although the M18 has a right-angle impact wrench, but I wonder if you could use that in place of a ratchet?). Instead of that I guess I would invest in a set of ratcheting box wrenches or something.

I don't want to be "that guy" similar to the one that is out in his yard edging the grass with the extension cord behind him.

thoiboi

I went Dewalt and their high torque impact is a BEAST.

Skirmich

You dont really need the cordless ratchet anyway and I can guarantee you the Right Angle Impact wrench wont work..
If you still want a cordless ratchet. For the low torque bolts from the Timing Belt cover the smaller M12 3/8ths ratchet has enough torque and the perfect size for the job.

thoiboi

the m12 ratchet was the initial reason for me to want to go Milwaukee.. but then I started doing a lot of construction around the house and the Flexvolt line of stuff is... amazeballs.

Iggy

I don't have one but here's an interesting and entertaining review of HF Earthquake XT

Skirmich

Very Skookum! but I am reluctant on buying cordless stuff that might not get support (Battery wise) down the road..

SuperGreg

My corded impact didn't budge the crankshaft nut one bit. Rated at 450 ft-lbs. I've never heard anybody say electric outperforms air, what model do you have? Air impact is generally much stronger, also more lightweight.

Skirmich

There are 2 ratings SuperGreg.
1 is for tightening and 1 is for loosening.

Yours is rated to 450ft-lbs of what?

My Milwaukee is rated for
1500ft-lb of Loosening power
700ft-lb of Tightening power.
Is the High Torque FUEL Cordless Impact Wrench, Which have removed 2x J-Series crankshaft bolts like it was nothing... Literally less than 2 seconds before the bolt broken loose each time, The High Torque from Milwaukee is completely overkill for any bolt on any car..

Skirmich

Here is reaching 1500ft-lb Loosening power and then some more:

bbsitum

We talk already about it little here https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...eplace-963321/ . Problem with Milwaukee high torque is that is relatively heavy and bulky. I think for start you would use Makita or Hitachi around 300Nm. That Milwaukee you need not at all. Electric or air is not question any more thanks to electric portability.

bbsitum

Btw I do not have one single tool that work at battery. But I'm carpenter. Both my Makita impact are corded and I had to do special order from Home Depot to get corded Makita impact driver. It is well known that from same weight from some reason this days battery ones have more power than corded ones. I guess because battery ones sold much more they put more engineering in it.

SuperGreg

Very nice, is it this one?
That one is rated at 1,100 ft-lbs, do you have a different model? How is the size/weight? I have a DeWalt corded and I've found that many times I can't get it to fit into a spot where I need it. U-joints seem to absorb a lot of the torque. If this is really over twice the torque of what I've got, I may just have to pick one up

Skirmich

That is the old version which is still very good! The new version is the 2767 (The one I have) which is a little bit smaller has new features and is more powerful (Your link is for the older 2765 which is still more powerful than 99% of Air Tools).

bbsitum made a great point though..
The High Torque is very big, bulky and HEAVY and for most suspension work its rather useless as it wont even fit between the chassis and the wheel well.. For example when trying to remove the Caliper Bracket bolts? Yeah it wont happen.
So if you are planning on using it for car duty only I would suggest the smaller Milwaukee "Medium Torque" I believe the Medium Torque paired with the LISLE Balancer Tool (19mm Socket to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt) will remove the bolt with ease and it will work for almost all suspension work in the car since its way smaller.

Skirmich

The 2767 has enough torque to remove the engine mount bolts using a total of 30" extensions, It simply has an absurd amount of torque at tap.
So if you have a duty truck or any other HD stuff that requires big torque? The High Torque will work nicely for those...

SuperGreg

So far mine has removed every bolt on the car including engine mounts with long extensions, except that crankshaft bolt. That thing had me stuck for a few hours when I was doing my timing belt until I got it loose by getting creative with a breaker bar. I'd pay for an impact wrench just to get the bolt off next time.

Arkady

I straight-up decided my oil pump didn't even need examination after struggling with the crankshaft on mine. The little Husky air impact didn't do jack to that bolt haha

bbsitum

In October I changed my timing belt. I opened crankshaft bolt in around 30 seconds. 3/4 T bar, 5' pipe, me 200 pounds. There is already around 800 ft pounds. If something can resist it sledge hammer will do job I guess up to 1500 ft pounds. I know from my job that do not exist impact that can compare to pipe and sledge combination.

Skirmich

SuperGreg

Where did you place the breaker bar? You can't place it from the engine bay, and without the car on a lift there is not enough room under the car. I had extensions to clear the fender and put the breaker bar there but the extensions just flexed with me jumping on top of the breaker bar. This was a 1/2". I have since bought a 3/4" bar.

bbsitum

^^^ 3/4 set or go home. I have set similar to this https://www.harborfreight.com/21-pie...set-40996.html , so T bar is 3/4, socket if I remember 34 mm is 3/4 and both extensions 6" and 9'' are 3/4 to. Must have set if you are serious about working at car. Extension you set at jack stand and, of course, another end at crank bolt. Very reliable set up that work. You need more than 1500 nm, buy 10' steel pipe and call 2 guys stand at it while you hit it with sledge hammer. Clearly extensions set up is key here. One end is at 34 mm socket and another end, to the ratchet, is at stand. To be sure, if need, I didn't need, someone can press with leg at top of extension over stand or make some combination with clamp or rope to hold extension to stand.
Clearly in this set up key is that extensions clear wheel well so you can do that all pressing outside. I sorry I didn't do photo of it. It is a reliable method that just work.
You need 50 000 nm of torque. No problem do combination of steel pipe 1" breaker bar socket set and use 20 ton bottle jack chained to pipe. That of course with hard hat, safety glasses and staying away from set up how much is possible.