thatguy2

Car: 1999 TL.
I did a bulb check last week and I noticed most of them were not working. So this week I pulled out the cluster and they were all gone. PO must have taken them out. Only 2 were functional. So i go to my local junkyard and took some sockets and bulbs. I put them in and they worked. I reset my maint reqd light, cleared engine codes (light did not come back), but my TCS, ABS, and SRS light remained on. I have a scan tool, not dealer level, and I had no codes. Lights were still on. Not sure what to chase down. Do I chase the wheel speed sensor or a wiring issue? FYI There was some bulb sockets that were different color. Some were blue the others were black. Didn't pay much attention to it because they all said v-2 on it and it didn't specify colors.

01tl4tl

Does the ABS work? Does cruise control work? that will tell if the speed sensors are ok

try a parts store (except in California) they will use their code reader for free~!
It might be better than yours...

reminder that codes are clues = not a diagnosis in themselves

thatguy2

Cruise control works perfectly. Just tried it today. I will go to a parts store and see if they can pull codes and yes I never change parts based on codes. It just leads me in the right direction

thatguy2

These are the codes I got P0401. Exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected (check engine light on again)

also code 9-2 Internal malfunction of the power supply for the SRS.

No abs/tcs codes.

SuperGreg

Jump pins 4 & 9 on the OBDII port and turn ignition to ON and see if the lights blink. A consumer code reader won't read ABS or TCS codes from our cars. Not sure if O'Reilly's will or not. Good luck!

Sound like you need to clean your EGR ports.

01tl4tl

I would do the intake manifold removal and clean the egr system from one end to the other! under 2 hours diy at casual pace with breaks, need 3 cans carb cleaner and a wire coat hanger (no kidding) to ream the main egr passage thru the `internal` length of intake manifold passage and port (single egr to cylinder port to clean on 99- should have been done once under a recall many years ago)

Service /clean IACV idle air control valve= built into bottom of Throttle body- it all comes off the engine with the intake manifold as a unit
need to both those jobs approx every 75kmiles to stay ahead of clogging issue- especially 99s!

Was this car a totaled/salvage vehicle? evidence of airbag deployment?

01tl4tl

did you try the ABS action? if thats working the speed sensors are good!!

thatguy2

I was about to pull the intake and do that exact thing. I knew what the code was about. I watched ETCG's video on it. As for the abs i didn't try yet. I'll try to activate abs as soon as I drive it next time. The car was wrecked before. I don't know how serious. It did have replacement panels when I bought it. The hood, bumper and fender on the passenger side. No evidence of deployment that I can see. I imagine that the SRS computer is bad on the inside. The code did say internal power malfunction. I tried the SRS reset. The one where you jump the contacts on the small yellow connector under the drivers kick panel. I had the procedure. It flashed twice saying codes were erased I believe. Kinda had to do some acrobatics to see the light and jump the connector with a paper clip. If it turns out the computer is bad I will pull it and send it to myairbags.com if they can repair it

thatguy2

Do you have a diagram or how do i know which ports to jump on the diagnostic connector?

musiclevelz5

Look closely at your obd2 port. They are numbered from 1-16. You need to jump 4 and 9 and it will flash the codes when the ignition switch is on.

thatguy2

Thanks. I will go ahead and do this tomorrow

thatguy2

I tried activating ABS today and it didn't kick in. Slammed on the brakes and the tires skidded.

thatguy2

codes I got from jumping pin 4 and pin 9.
SRS 9-2
ABS 1-1, 6-1, 8-1
TCS 3-1, 3-4, 3-5, 6-1

All should be correct if I counted right.

SuperGreg

Here's what I could find from the service manual:

SRS 9-2: "Internal failure of the SRS unit. If intermittent, it could mean internal failure of the power supply (VB line). NOTE: Before troubleshooting DTC 9-1 or 9-2, check the battery/system voltage. If the voltage is low, repair the charging system before troubleshooting the SRS"

ABS 11: Right front wheel sensor (open/short to body ground/short to power)
ABS 61: Low ignition voltage
ABS 81: CPU diagnosis, ROM/RAM diagnosis

TCS 31: Engine retard command (PFINH) signal
TCS 34: Reference voltage (VREF) signal
TCS 35: (I don't see this listed in the manual)
TCS 36: Throttle position sensor output (THLOUT) signal

FYI: For all of the TCS codes, the manual says to diagnose the ABS first if the ABS indicator is on. Otherwise, each of the TCS codes involves checking continuity for the lines specified through the wiring harness connector.

I would think that best case, you have some kind of battery and/or charging system problem causing all of this. Hopefully there is not a wiring issue. I would be inclined to think wiring issue if not for 9-2, ABS 61, and ABS 81 possibly pointing toward voltage issues. I would start there. Good luck! Keep us updated.

thatguy2

sorry its not 35 its tcs 61 that I have written down oops.

SuperGreg

Whoops I see you had 61 listed and I misread... TCS code 61 is "A/T shift position (ATSFTP) signal".

01tl4tl

if the car was repaired under insurance- there is a PUBLIC record you can access with the info

All the needed warning bulbs removed from dash and odd SRS problems...
and you say there are no signs it had airbag deployment...really?

wanna bet the steering wheel airbag is nothing but old newspapers and a dirty tennis shoe?

Ck the one speed sensor the code says- wire damage is common to the front ones
A poorly performed brake job can mess up the wire! or rust- corrosion

01tl4tl

odd thought: ck the ground wire from battery to body, it likes to come loose INSIDE the crimp connector = where it attaches to body- under battery tray
That will drive you nuts tracking down!

thatguy2

Ill check the speed sensor. Now your comment on the SRS. You asked me if there was any Physical evidence of deployment, which there was not. There was no airbags hanging out and the covers were still intact. Now there may very well be a lack of bags behind those covers. I need to take the steering wheel bag off to see if anything is there. It's obvious some hack was working on it before I bought it.

thatguy2

Tested the charging system and the voltage it was able to put out with everything on like defrosters, radio, wiper, headlights highbeam, etc was 14.03 V. Is that a good. It seems like it should be able to keep up at that voltage

thatguy2

I also had the battery load tested. Tested good but it was on its last legs. 1/4 life left. Battery was about 12.3V before I tested the charging system

01tl4tl

so your alternator is putting out fine... but the battery cannot hold the charge due to weak cell(s)?
Is that what you mean= on its last legs--1/4 life left?

Using the starter, or cranking load is what will show a weak cell- more than a standard quick load test,
the full draw of amps for the engine to start
Also a bad starter will draw more than the usual amount of amps

note on CCA or battery Cold Cranking Amps- the number everyone quotes on battery strength=
is the actual tested output after the battery sits at 32 degrees F for 8 hours = COLD, then is tested at starter draw amperage
Cold is batteries enemy. On a normal warm day/night that same battery has more amps than is listed on the label

01tl4tl

funky/intermittent voltage from ground problem, or wandering voltage due to battery condition, can cause False Codes

ck out the ground wire base/mount to frame I mentioned before

thatguy2

I started cleaning grounds and I will check the ground under the battery tray to see if it is intact as you said. I will of course have to get codes cleared to see if it worked. My scan tool couldnt read the codes except for the check engine light. Which got fixed. Thank you for that. Im not sure if disconnecting the battery will clear abs, tcs, and srs codes. The battery can hold a charge, but it is nearing the end of its life. The battery is a little old and it has 1/4 of estimated life left. I will change the battery to prevent future problems.