3.2TLc

So, has anybody in the 2nd Gen replaced the tranny's pressure switches for #3 & #4 gears ? It appears as though the 3rd Gen guys swear by this as good tranny "PM" in their similar trans.

IDK for sure, but I did try the "Redline" racing type F fluid in a single D & F with moderate success. Just wanting to check 2nd Gen home on this first. Another thing that the 3G guys do is to adjust the AT clutch pressure control "A/B" solenoid valves. Apparently it helps with firmer shifts.

My 2000 TL's original tranny at 185k is showing signs of distress, flashing "D-5" for AT temp sensor code and experiencing sporadic flaring between shifts. Also, reverse engagement is getting rather iffy. Sorta got to move the shifter around to get it to move.

Fluid was previously replaced by DW1 with the 3 x 3 Drain & Fill procedure over a couple of months to acclimate the old and tired tranny. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated going forward. Thanks !!!

Skirmich

Never replaced those but by the manual it looks pretty straight forward.


And about the A/T Clutch pressure control adjustment I haven't read about it but Sounds interesting..
Though the trans are different so I would take it with a grain of salt.

TLZINE99

Sounds like the racing type-F destroyed your trans.

DIY for pressure switch below.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ressure+switch

ErickUa5

Save it for the next trans if I were you.
If you decide to go back to DW1 you can try the Cold Drain and fill method as I described in another thread.

Type F is not good for our 2nd Gen since we don't have drive by wire to cut power between shifts.
My friends 3rd Gen had Type F fluid and gave up anyway. (no oil Jet) This tranny was perfectly fine on Type F for about 2 years.

I also tried type F with great results, At first with bump shifts and reverse engaged faster but after a few months, hydraulic trouble codes started appearing and D5 blinking etc.. This tranny was going bad either way.

MarcDavidoff

I replaced both pressure switches. My orig trans was replaced after about 50k miles by Acura with the updated version. At about 155k I changed both switches and I now have 171 k. Wasn't having any issues so don't know if it really helped but figured it may be good PM

3.2TLc

Drove the car today with no really apparent shifting issues. Maybe because it had been sitting and the fluid was cold, IDK ? With some more reading on the basic problems experienced, it seems that the Linear "A/B" clutch pressure control solenoid valve pack may be mechanically malfunctioning. Has anybody ever pulled this valve assembly off and tried cleaning it ?

Also, reverse is still a pita. I'm going to go underneath and check the shift cable and fork shaft's bolt. Perhaps something is either broken, loose or out of adjustment ?

ErickUa5

I had success cleaning it out on a 99 4 speed which has the same linear solenoids, if the valve actually has a mechanical issue such as getting stuck you would get an obdII Performance code.
Try scanning it for codes you may see a ghost code that wont light up the CEL or TCS but might be there.

3.2TLc

Previously was getting a flashing "D-5" and P0710 (ATF temp sensor) and more recently P0750 (Mech problem in hydraulic system).......which led me to the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A & B. I'm assuming that the inlet filters of the valve's feed pipes tend to clog. Is there a way to test the valves by energizing or checking with a meter ?

Curious3GTL

Someone made a YouTube video about it.

ErickUa5

They could be clogged. But I would chase the Temp sensor code first, has to be a broken wire or bad connection (mice love wires). Its a 2 wire connector by the 4th pressure switch of the trans. Its on the service manual 14-348 to show the location.

The valves can be tested with 12v straight from the battery, should hear them click. Consider the temp sensor wiring first before going that far.

3.2TLc

Thanks guys for the helpful advice.
While everything seems somewhat ok at the moment, I don't really trust the car anymore.

Looks like it's worth a few bucks and some effort trying a few simple things at this point.
Sorta getting close to throwing in the towel.....if it's indeed a bad tranny, as replacing the T-belt is just around the next corner. Maybe it's better to put $2000-$3000 into a newer car, IDK.