2003 TL Full Aftermarket Stereo Configuration Help Needed

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Old 02-24-2014, 06:13 PM
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2003 TL Full Aftermarket Stereo Configuration Help Needed

Hey Acurazine, I apologize if I am posting this in the wrong place or I made a mistake. Please let me know if this is the case. I posted this in Audio but had no responses, so Im seeing if I can get some help from the 2G TL community.

I am fully upgrading my factory stereo on my 2003 TL Type S. I am going all new from headunit to door speakers to sub. I have a configuration Im looking at purchasing but I have a couple questions and I would love some guidance. I have never installed a stereo but I can crimp and solder and I am willing to learn everything else.

My current parts list:

Headunit (With brackets and wiring harness needed): Kenwood DPX500BT 22w RMS or Pioneer AVH-4500BT 14w RMS http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X450...l#overview-tab or http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DPX5...-DPX500BT.html

Front door speakers: Sony XS GT 6.5" 40w RMS http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GT16...S-GT1638F.html

Rear door speakers: Sony XS GT 5.25" http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GT13...S-GT1338F.html

5 Channel Amp for doors and sub: Kenwood KAC-7005PS Amazon.com : Kenwood KAC-7005PS Performance Series 5 Channel Power Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Electronics Amazon.com : Kenwood KAC-7005PS Performance Series 5 Channel Power Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Electronics
Sub: MTX TNE212D Amazon.com: MTX Audio Terminator Series TNE212D 1,200-Watt Dual 12-Inch Sub Enclosure: Car Electronics Amazon.com: MTX Audio Terminator Series TNE212D 1,200-Watt Dual 12-Inch Sub Enclosure: Car Electronics
Wiring: Full 4 Gage Kit Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit: Car Electronics Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit: Car Electronics
My questions:

1. How would I wire the amp? Would I run the headunit RCA to the trunk where the amp and subs would be then back up to the front then out to the door speakers?

2. Should I just get the 22w RMS output headunit and be good? Will the Sony Speakers be a worthy upgrade from the Bose?

3. Am I forgetting something? Do I NEED to get a capacitor or a second battery?

4. Will removing the factory stereo have any effect on the car alarm? I see the alarm light that blinks on the unit and I want to make sure the alarm itself will be unaffected.

Sorry for the long post, thanks for any available help! Feel free to link me to useful threads.
Old 02-24-2014, 08:49 PM
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Boy oh boy, where to begin?
I'd highly suggest signing up at mobileaudioforum.com, lots of very knowledgeable people there that do car audio for a living.
Don't get those speakers or subs whatever you do

I'd suggest getting 0 gauge in case you ever want to upgrade so you wont need to buy wire and install all over again. But get 4g ofc if you don't plan on going over ~1300 watts
You'll want to amp some speakers, running off the HU would be a downgrade from the bose imo.
The rca wiring depends all on the inputs and outputs of tje HU and amps you get. I have both amps in the trunk and thick speaker wire up to the speakers.
No need for a cap, but a 2nd batt wouldn't hurt if you want to deal with that if you're gonna run over 1000w.

Oh, and no effect on factory alarm.
Sorry for any typos or not making sense, im on my phone.

Last edited by Chevelle66; 02-24-2014 at 09:02 PM.
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ThePattyWagon (02-26-2014)
Old 02-24-2014, 11:34 PM
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You ask a lot of specific questions...
Sony speakers? HECK NO!..

Easy way to wire the AMP is as you mention.. Run HU wires to the trunk and front again and tap the OEM wires into the doors < That's if you are not planning on going over 100RMS on the speakers anything below that will be just fine.

Speakers size: Unless you know how to make a custom bracket you wont be fitting a 6.5" speaker in the Stock position.. Anything 5.25" will fit with some mods in the plastic tray but easy cake..

HU Power? You wont be gaining much, The BOSE system is already amplified if you are planning on running the speakers from the HU directly then there isn't much of a point in "Upgrading" you will probably get cleaner sound but that's because it will have a tweeter nothing else.
Unless you are over 1K RMS there is no need for a second battery.. Also CAPs are gimmicks don't buy one ever...

The Stereo and the Alarm aren't connected in any way, Unless you have NAV then you will lose the direction prompts.
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:31 AM
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Thanks for the response. Alright, I'm now looking at a more simplified but higher quality setup.

Headunit: Kenwood DPX500BT 22W RMS... I know that the Bose factory door speakers are 25W RMS so this Headunit's preamp should push them pretty well.

Sub: Alpine Type R SWR-12D2 (or 12D4, depending on recommendation) Sub good for 1000W RMS.

Amp: Planet Audio AC4000.1D... Yes I know cheep brand but reviews are great, it says on SonicElectronics that the amps RMS is:
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 1500 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 2000 watts x 1 chan.
1 ohms: 2000 watts x 1 chan.

Wiring: Same 4 Gage Kit
Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit: Car Electronics Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit: Car Electronics

Also have 12" ported sub box, wiring harness and Headunit mounting brackets in my Amazon Cart.

1. Is that setup good? Im worried that the amp might be too powerful for the single sub. I could afford another sub, but I don't think I really need it and it was said that if I was using over 1000 RMS that I should get a second battery which I don't want to fool with.

2. Should I get the 12D4 or 12D2 sub?

3. Any other part recommendations?

Thanks!
Old 02-26-2014, 08:10 PM
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Got this all sorted out, thanks to Chevelle66 for the recommendation to mobileaudioforum.com.

Got an actual quality system, so no more help needed.

Thanks!
Old 02-27-2014, 01:26 AM
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I seriously so SERIOUSLY doubt that Planet Audio amp is pushing 2000K RMS at 2 Ohms.. If so you might need twin batteries and alternator Re-wound because there is no way you will keep up with the TL 110A alternator..


With 3x40A fuses = Total of 60A and making a rough calculation of true power your "4000RMS AMP" really makes 600RMS at most! give or take in any given time... The sub is good, that amp will push it fine no worries on burning anything.. The D4 or D2 really depends on what AMP you will run..

Last edited by Skirmich; 02-27-2014 at 01:30 AM.
Old 02-27-2014, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ThePattyWagon
Hey Acurazine, I apologize if I am posting this in the wrong place or I made a mistake. Please let me know if this is the case. I posted this in Audio but had no responses, so Im seeing if I can get some help from the 2G TL community.

I am fully upgrading my factory stereo on my 2003 TL Type S. I am going all new from headunit to door speakers to sub. I have a configuration Im looking at purchasing but I have a couple questions and I would love some guidance. I have never installed a stereo but I can crimp and solder and I am willing to learn everything else.

My current parts list:

Headunit (With brackets and wiring harness needed): Kenwood DPX500BT 22w RMS or Pioneer AVH-4500BT 14w RMS http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X450...l#overview-tab or http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DPX5...-DPX500BT.html

Front door speakers: Sony XS GT 6.5" 40w RMS http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GT16...S-GT1638F.html

Rear door speakers: Sony XS GT 5.25" http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GT13...S-GT1338F.html

5 Channel Amp for doors and sub: Kenwood KAC-7005PS Amazon.com : Kenwood KAC-7005PS Performance Series 5 Channel Power Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Electronics Amazon.com : Kenwood KAC-7005PS Performance Series 5 Channel Power Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Electronics
Sub: MTX TNE212D Amazon.com: MTX Audio Terminator Series TNE212D 1,200-Watt Dual 12-Inch Sub Enclosure: Car Electronics Amazon.com: MTX Audio Terminator Series TNE212D 1,200-Watt Dual 12-Inch Sub Enclosure: Car Electronics
Wiring: Full 4 Gage Kit Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit: Car Electronics Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit: Car Electronics
My questions:

1. How would I wire the amp? Would I run the headunit RCA to the trunk where the amp and subs would be then back up to the front then out to the door speakers?

2. Should I just get the 22w RMS output headunit and be good? Will the Sony Speakers be a worthy upgrade from the Bose?

3. Am I forgetting something? Do I NEED to get a capacitor or a second battery?

4. Will removing the factory stereo have any effect on the car alarm? I see the alarm light that blinks on the unit and I want to make sure the alarm itself will be unaffected.

Sorry for the long post, thanks for any available help! Feel free to link me to useful threads.
No problem, you have to get out what you need to say, right? Stereo systems aren't something to joke about, especially when you have a full overhaul on your hands.
I just overhauled and replaced everything (well, almost everything... left the stock "Bose" amp wired to the speakers) a few months ago, so feel free to ask me any random questions if you get into a bind.

Everyone saying "NO SONY SPEAKERS!!" are completely right. I had a Sony headunit, and although the configuration was the best and most user-friendly at the time, sound sucks. Go Kenwood for economy speakers (1694S is what I have bought in two separate cars) and go for Infinity for beautiful, crisp speakers.

Secondly, the rear door speakers are 6.5". I found this quite confusing when I was doing my research, but I bought all four Kenwood 6.5" coax's and they fit in the back. I have an '03 Base, but same difference, right?

1. An amp diagram online or on the back of the wiring kit you buy will depict that for you. I was very intimidated by it at first, but it really isn't that bad. The hardest thing I ran into was poking the power cable through the firewall.

2. Also, the "Bose" in this car isn't really the "Bose" name you think of today. They are a budget, actually subpar economy system Acura had to put into the TL to fight with the big guys at the time (BMW, Merc). That's my opinion of it, but the fact is that the "Bose" sucks. A very bad amp connected to door speakers with freakin' heavy magnets but cardboard cones which don't really do much for you. I'd give them a B for trying, but anything you put into this car will be worlds better.

3. How about retaining steering wheel audio controls? That is something you need to prioritize for yourself if it's worth the $50 or not. You will have to get a programmable module which will convert the signals to your new headunit. Given the shoddy steering wheel audio control design, I probably would go back and get my $50 back since mine works 40% of the time (completely the car, not the module). That is something you need to decide for yourself if it's important or not.

Also, the headunit. My advice is to get everything you've ever dreamed of in your headunit since you will use that alllll the time. Get Bluetooth, get everything you find practical (navigation is out of my range, I have no experience with it so I'm not including this). This is a shortfall of mine I came across about two weeks after I bought my Kenwood DDX419.

Lastly, I'd recommend straying away from a 5-channel amp. A close friend of mine who has been hooking up audio systems for nearly two decades has told me that a 5-channel will only take away from your sub, or the sub will take away from the door speakers, depending on what happens. It sounds economical, but he talked me out of it, so I would suggest looking around at other options if I were you. I planned on a 5-channel and ended up bridging a 2-chan and keeping the door speakers on the headunit (no secondary amp) which has produced more than enough ear-piercing yet clear sound.

Good luck, my friend. I spent a good chunk of change and far too many man hours on my audio system, but I am rewarded every time I turn on the car. Best of luck and feel free to ask any random questions about problems you run into because I've probably been there.
Old 05-01-2014, 01:54 PM
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You seem to know your stuff, so can I ask an quick question? I have a 2003 TL and the 6 CD changer broke, can I replace the Head Unit and still use the sub in the back? A friend told me a new Head Unit would blow the sub with too much power. Someone at BestBuy tole me it may have it's own amp. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Old 05-01-2014, 03:11 PM
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You can install an Aftermarket HU and retain the BOSE Subwoofer as it has its own OEM AMP.. The real issue is that Personally I don´t know how to do this since I installed an Aftermarket Sub with my HU at the same time but it should not be a big issue though.


If somebody could chime in with specific instructions or a link to a DIY it would be Awesome.
Old 05-01-2014, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by athomas915
No problem, you have to get out what you need to say, right? Stereo systems aren't something to joke about, especially when you have a full overhaul on your hands.
I just overhauled and replaced everything (well, almost everything... left the stock "Bose" amp wired to the speakers) a few months ago, so feel free to ask me any random questions if you get into a bind.

Everyone saying "NO SONY SPEAKERS!!" are completely right. I had a Sony headunit, and although the configuration was the best and most user-friendly at the time, sound sucks. Go Kenwood for economy speakers (1694S is what I have bought in two separate cars) and go for Infinity for beautiful, crisp speakers.

Secondly, the rear door speakers are 6.5". I found this quite confusing when I was doing my research, but I bought all four Kenwood 6.5" coax's and they fit in the back. I have an '03 Base, but same difference, right?

1. An amp diagram online or on the back of the wiring kit you buy will depict that for you. I was very intimidated by it at first, but it really isn't that bad. The hardest thing I ran into was poking the power cable through the firewall.

2. Also, the "Bose" in this car isn't really the "Bose" name you think of today. They are a budget, actually subpar economy system Acura had to put into the TL to fight with the big guys at the time (BMW, Merc). That's my opinion of it, but the fact is that the "Bose" sucks. A very bad amp connected to door speakers with freakin' heavy magnets but cardboard cones which don't really do much for you. I'd give them a B for trying, but anything you put into this car will be worlds better.

3. How about retaining steering wheel audio controls? That is something you need to prioritize for yourself if it's worth the $50 or not. You will have to get a programmable module which will convert the signals to your new headunit. Given the shoddy steering wheel audio control design, I probably would go back and get my $50 back since mine works 40% of the time (completely the car, not the module). That is something you need to decide for yourself if it's important or not.

Also, the headunit. My advice is to get everything you've ever dreamed of in your headunit since you will use that alllll the time. Get Bluetooth, get everything you find practical (navigation is out of my range, I have no experience with it so I'm not including this). This is a shortfall of mine I came across about two weeks after I bought my Kenwood DDX419.

Lastly, I'd recommend straying away from a 5-channel amp. A close friend of mine who has been hooking up audio systems for nearly two decades has told me that a 5-channel will only take away from your sub, or the sub will take away from the door speakers, depending on what happens. It sounds economical, but he talked me out of it, so I would suggest looking around at other options if I were you. I planned on a 5-channel and ended up bridging a 2-chan and keeping the door speakers on the headunit (no secondary amp) which has produced more than enough ear-piercing yet clear sound.

Good luck, my friend. I spent a good chunk of change and far too many man hours on my audio system, but I am rewarded every time I turn on the car. Best of luck and feel free to ask any random questions about problems you run into because I've probably been there.
Can i ask how you kept your "Bose" amp wired to your speakers when the Amp for the speakers is built into the Headunit? Only the rear sub has an external amp.
Old 05-01-2014, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
You can install an Aftermarket HU and retain the BOSE Subwoofer as it has its own OEM AMP.. The real issue is that Personally I don´t know how to do this since I installed an Aftermarket Sub with my HU at the same time but it should not be a big issue though.


If somebody could chime in with specific instructions or a link to a DIY it would be Awesome.
Its not hard, you just have to splice a few wires. I did a quick search and found this thread. The pic links are broken but the instructions are still there. Just do a quick search, I know there are others out there that tell how as well.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...57#post8998457
Old 05-01-2014, 04:00 PM
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^^'Fatty to the rescue!!
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