rdfblack

Are the 2nd and 3rd clutch pressure switches the same part number or are they different thanks

01acls

Your trans uses the same pressure switch and gasket for both gears, so buy two if replacing both.




Acura part name: Switch Assy., oil pressure (Texas Instruments)


Part Number: 28600-P7Z-003

Dealer price: $58.88


Gasket

Part Number: 90471-PW7-A00

$4.35

musiclevelz5

Yes they are the same switch # rdf. You can get them on amazon with metal washer included for a much better price over dealer. Thats what I use in all my cars.

Also I just remembered that I was going to take pics of my 99 to help you out, I will go do that shortly.

musiclevelz5

The pressure switch down here is immediately behind the spot where I circled in red. You need to take off the driver side wheel for better access.




This is the location of the other switch which can be seen from the engine bay. It is under and to the side of the heater hose.

This is the location of both pressure switches on my 1999 TL 4 speed.

rdfblack

Hey thanks for the pics am going to try and replace them tomorrow myself question the one that under the wheel well is there a bracket with 2 screws u have to remove before u can see the pressure switch cause some videos ive seen shows me a 3rd and 4th clutch pressure switch in the same area thanks for any extra help the club is #1 in my book

01acls

No, that one is a 5 speed 2000 transmission.

The two 4 speed 1999 transmission solenoids are expose not covered up. See the diagram below. #14 are the solenoids.

01acls

01acls

Sorry I meant "Pressure switches" not "Solenoids".

rdfblack

Hey I replace both peessure switches clean AB solenoid vavle changed tranny fluid which looked good didnt smekl burnt no metal at all on drain magnet but still shifts had at take ofd help

musiclevelz5

01acls is correct. My 99 does not have a bracket that you have to take off. Both switches are fairly easily accessible. The correct socket size is 22mm.

musiclevelz5

You say it still shifts hard? In which gears? Does it do it when the car is both cold and hot?

The other thing you can do is change the other solenoids on the trans with new units.

rdfblack

Hey cold or hot its the same only local driving on the highway it runs flawless no issue so I have to change the other two. Even though I cleaned them

rdfblack

I drive in D4 so when am taking off in jerks wgen it shifts I would say from 1st to 2nd I guess

01acls

Referencing the parts diagram, can you tell us what parts you cleaned by their ID number?

musiclevelz5

I can tell you from my experience if cleaning the solenoid does not work, then replacing it with a new one is a good bet. The solenoid can become a little out of spec and not open at the correct interval causing a slight jerk. The only fix for this is a new unit.

rdfblack

From the diagram cleaned number #8 screen which is #9 and cleaned #10 also

rdfblack

I cleaned #8 and #10 and replaced both # 14 should I try replacing #12 and #13 not sure if there easy to do

01acls

Don't you mean #9, 3, 4, and 5?

01acls

#3, 4, and 5 is inside 10. So when you say 10, did you pull the pipes 3, 4 and 5 out and clean the screens on the bottom side?

#14 x 2 was replaced with new ones.

rdfblack

Yes I pulled the pipes and clean the screens which wasnt really dirty and both #14 were replace with new

01acls

Those are the correct items to clean. I don't know of anything else that's serviceable that will make a difference.

You can try what Musiclevelz5 suggested, changing the other solenoids but, I've never heard of anybody doing that. That's uncharted territory. I'm not sure how bad you tranny is so, that's going to be your call.

I understand your trans fluid was pretty clean, it seems to me that you shouldn't even be having those stutter issues. My trans had stutter issues for a while but, after I did my 3rd 1x3 (over couple of months)it pretty much went away. Now it has a ever so slight flair up now and then. I was going to do all the stuff you did if mines was still having issues. I still might if it gets worse.

Today I read about a guy that changed his 3/4 solenoids on a Acura and was having all kinds of problems after it was changed out. It was throwing every code in the book. It turns out his ground strap on the transmission was dirty. Once he fixed the ground problem he said "It shifted better than before. For what it's worth, maybe clean your transmission ground strap just in case?

rdfblack

Am gonna try everything that musiclevelz5 and 01act recommends thanks

rdfblack

01acls

musiclevelz5

I would go one step further and get a new ground strap. I replaced mine and as I did not really notice a difference, my trans ground was 90% corroded and was falling apart so I am sure it did some good.

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...3s0k01_e07.png

The part you want is #13.

13 32610-S87-A20 CABLE, SUB-GROUND

01acls

Musiclevelz5, You said you changed a solenoid on your trans? What did it do for you and which one #8 or 10?

rdfblack

Where the the sub ground cable located I seen the diagram but couldnt see it on the car

01acls

TRANS GROUNDS #7 & 5.

01acls

1999 tl tranny 4 speed

01acls

He did not change any solenoid. He changed the 2nd and 3rd clutch pressure switches.

musiclevelz5

Correct 01acls. I replaced both switches but not any of the solenoids. I suggested rdf to change out the solenoids as a last resort before getting a trans rebuild to see if his problem goes away.

01acls

OP, according to the chart should be looking at Shift Solenoid Valve C. If not replacing, then at least do an ohms test, activation test, and remove to inspect for obstrution/cleaning. If you are going to do that you mine as well check out Shift Solenoid Valve B too since you're right there.

OP does that sound right?

firsttimebuyer

i had an issue with my 99' 4 speed TL with soft shifts in all gears, it would flare unless i was very light on the throttle..

knowing that it happened on all gear shifts indicated to me that it was a low pressure issue.. so i got to thinking and decided to check the dual linear control solenoids.. i pulled them out of the car and ohm checked them to find they were within spec.. i then decided to do the click test by powering them.. the both powered up.. however, on one of the solenoids the pintle/plunger was moving only half the distance as the other.. obviously preventing proper operation of the valve..

i replaced the solenoids with dealer part 250 (merchant cost) i believe retail was 300 or so. and shifts are much firmer..

you need to ask yourself, does your symptom happen in all gears or only some? if all gears, then look at the linear solenoid like i did.. yours could fail in the opposite way causing too much pressure at the wrong times.. if its only certain gear shifts then look at the shift control solenoids B and C check ohms AND pintle movement..

now that i helped you (hopefully) maybe someone could help me with my last issue im having with my trans.. it seems to rev to 3500 rpm before it begins to shift into second gear.. i am assuming that the pressure switch is faulty.. can anyone validate this for me? i dont mean to thread jack, but everyone is talking about the trans anyway

thanks

01acls

I don't think that your delayed shift to 2nd gear is a faulty Pressure switch. I believe it's a faulty Shift Control Solenoid valve(s).

Check the A, B, and C Shift Control Solenoid Valves for a fault. All three valves have to be working in unison for your trans to shift from 1st to 2nd gear.

Perform the ohms and activation test on all three valves.

Valve A, check for ohms between terminal 1 and body (12-25 ohms). To activate Valve A, Jump terminal 1 to positive side of battery (listen for a click).

Check of obstructions on all the valves. Valve A check the screen for obstruction.

If any valve is out of spec, replace the faulty valve.

firsttimebuyer

When I bought the car it had already had the lockup/shift solenoid a assy replaced.. looks aftermarket... any issues with aftermarket solenoids? I ask bc I also have an issue with the tcc clutch engaging and disengaging at around 40 to 45 mph.. it's quite annoying... it that a characteristic of these transmissions? That another reason I was thinking a pressure switch was out of whack.. the solenoids all test out ok..

01acls

Is there anything else going on with the trans besides the above?

musiclevelz5

My 99 has 277k on it and has the original solenoids but does have new pressure switches. I do not have the tcc engage/disengage symptom you describe.

I would say the only way to find out for sure is to get the other solenoids (buy new) and put each one on at a time and see if it fixes your issue.

01acls

So you checked the Valves A, B, and C as indicated above and all is well?

firsttimebuyer

yea all the solenoids ohm out ok and click... no other shift issues at all other than the delayed shift to second..

heres the history of the car..

bought it at auction with a flashing d4 light.. code indicated bad lockup solenoid.. upon inspection found that someone replaced the shift solenoid a/tcc lockup solenoid assy previously.
i tested the wiring and all was ok.. i cleared the CEL and the code immediately returned when key was cycled on.. ran a jumper to the tcc solenoid with no change, tcc solenoid code came right back.. determined it had a bad ecu

new ecu (and susequent key reprogram) fixed code and flashing d4 light.. drove it for a couple days and felt it was shifting too soft in all gears, which is why i found the dual linear solenoids to be failed (sticking plunger)

linear solenoids fixed the soft shift in all gears.. now all shifts are firm and on time except for the 1-2 shift which seems to rev out more than i feel is normal. it shifts in the 3-4k range under normal throttle.. if i use light throttle it will shift sooner but i have to consciously drive it like that..

it may be worth mentioning that even when using sport shift it still seems to lag in the shift...

im honestly contemplating replacing all the other solenoids and pressure switches as id love the perfect result.. i am a mechanic 10 years in, which is how i got this far.. i am more or less interested in the theory of operation with these transmissions in regards to the correlation of the solenoids to the pressure switches. FSM doesn't do a good job with this description

firsttimebuyer

btw, trans has 199k on it and while the initial fluid condition was pretty well burnt there was no debris in any of the screens i inspected

firsttimebuyer

also, i was going off some bad info... i have not checked the shift solenoid A yet.. i thought the tcc and lockup solenoid which was replaced before i got the car was shift solenoid a/lockup solenoid

so the dual solenoids on top of the trans next to the bell housing are new

and i only check the resistance of shift solenoid B lower solenoid under the starter

hope the clarification helps