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Has anyone ran 10W-30 oil in a 2G TL? The 99-01 models are approved for it above 20F, and I can't see how the engines would be different between 99-01 and 02-03. If your in an environment that will never see below 20F, then I'd imagine 10W-30 oil is better for your car. It would require less viscosity improvers, and would be better for high performance applications. Here's the oil chart from our service manual.
I'm going to give the Royal Purple HPS oil a try with the 10W-30 viscosity. The latest SAE certifications have been for emissions and environment regulations, and I think the HPS oil will be a better choice of oil for protection and performance.
Never used it here with +120°F.. Id stick with 5W-30.
Why? There's no advantage of 5W over 10W unless it drops below 20F. In fact, the 5W probably isn't rated for 120F use, whereas the 10W would be a better choice when it's THAT hot.
Well I guess it depends on the brand of oil? According to Mobil 1 Spec sheet their 5W-30 actually outperforms their 10W-30 in every scenario except flash point (By 2°C that is). Never had any overheating or oil pressure issues using the lighter 5W-30 neither in my TL-S or the MDX (And I push that J37 HARD), I know Honda SD is even pushing 0W-20 for that same weather in turbo applications!! which is INSANE at 120°F outside... If we go by the numbers 10W-30 is not even enough for our weather, according to that chart we should be using something north of 10W-40 here.
Ohh and According to Mobil 1 their 0W-20 is the BEST oil they have and According to Acura we can use it on the TL-S..
And remember that the recommended oil is actually 5W-20 (For both TL-S and MDX) I am using 5W-30 because of the summer weather on both cars.
I have been tempted to lower to 0W-40 (European Spec) for the TL-S.
Well I guess it depends on the brand of oil? According to Mobil 1 Spec sheet their 5W-30 actually outperforms their 10W-30 in every scenario except flash point (By 2°C that is). Never had any overheating or oil pressure issues using the lighter 5W-30 neither in my TL-S or the MDX (And I push that J37 HARD), I know Honda SD is even pushing 0W-20 for that same weather in turbo applications!! which is INSANE at 120°F outside... If we go by the numbers 10W-30 is not even enough for our weather, according to that chart we should be using something north of 10W-40 here.
Ohh and According to Mobil 1 their 0W-20 is the BEST oil they have and According to Acura we can use it on the TL-S..
There wouldn't be any difference between 5W-30 and 10W-30 of the same brand once they are up to temperature. The differences would be the viscosity improvers in the 5W that could degrade. Simply put though, I think 10W would be better than 5W in extreme temps like Arizona.
Originally Posted by Skirmich
And remember that the recommended oil is actually 5W-20 (For both TL-S and MDX) I am using 5W-30 because of the summer weather on both cars.
I have been tempted to lower to 0W-40 (European Spec) for the TL-S.
Noo, our engines were built for 5W-30. They only changed the spec for 02-03 to get better MPG ratings.
I don't think it will make much of a difference, but I'm going to try out the 10W. It's approved in the service manual, and AZ fits the temperature range. In fact, 10W-40 might even be good option during summer in AZ for a supercharged car.
You should try 0W-40 instead if you are worried about the inclement weather.. But I do not recall if the J35 allowed the switch to 0W..
Check the temps out:
0W-40 covers the same heat range as 10W-30 in any case 5W-40 seems better suited for your needs.
Skirmich, I agree that a 40 weight might be appropriate. But a 0W-40 or a 5W-40 would be a poor choice of oil. Look at the massive heat ranges they have. You can only get that by having a tone of viscosity improvers, which can degrade and are generally considered unwanted for performance use. 10W-30 or 10W-40 would be a better choice considering it never approaches freezing temperatures here.
5W-40 oil has a better cold AND heat tolerance than 10W-30. If there were no drawbacks to that then no one would use 10W-30, but it is widely used for performance engines. The narrower the temperature window you can get away with, the better. I went with 10W-30 over 10W-40 simply because our manual at least specifies that it's approved. Still, 10W-40 might be a better choice for a supercharged J35 in Arizona.
Seems like you are already set on it then?
I still think changing to that oil is very drastic, I mean are you racing 24/7? Even if the engine is S/C I do not see 5W-30 becoming obsolete unless your car is only used for Racing. For a daily I will still opt for the MPG advantage.
Seems like you are already set on it then?
I still think changing to that oil is very drastic, I mean are you racing 24/7? Even if the engine is S/C I do not see 5W-30 becoming obsolete unless your car is only used for Racing. For a daily I will still opt for the MPG advantage.
Oh yea, I'm definitely set to try it out. I was just wondering if anyone else has already tried it. I'm not sure why you think it's a drastic change, considering the running temp viscosity is the same. If anything, there probably won't be any difference whatsoever.
^
I switched to 10W30 after installing the S/C'er back in 2005 with 45K, and have used it ever since, now have 157K, with excellent results in this humid 'frying pan' known as FL.
Oh yea, I'm definitely set to try it out. I was just wondering if anyone else has already tried it. I'm not sure why you think it's a drastic change, considering the running temp viscosity is the same. If anything, there probably won't be any difference whatsoever.
It might be a better performing oil. You don't try new things that might have a small benefit? I think my car would still be stock if I wasn't looking to try new things.
Then there are those of us who, regardless of weather and temperature considerations, always choose a 0W-xx oil. Why? Because 0W oils can do everything 5W and 10W oils can do, only better. Why better? Because while protecting the engine at operating temperatures under load equally as well as other oils, 0W oils pump up and protect the engine better when the engine is cold, even when "cold" means the ambient air is over 100°F.
I ran a semi synthetic 10W30 for a couple of days as a way of flushing my oil before putting my synthetic 5W30 and I've noticed no difference in how the engine behaved while using the 10W30. It was around 20 Celsius so I figure it wouldn't make a difference.
If you live in an area where you never see freezing temps and get the occasional 40 degree celcuis days in the summer or have track days, 10W30 will be just fine if not better than 5W30.
I live in Canada and sometimes the summer days get chilly so I don't chance it with 10W30 since the oil is thicker when cold and a well made synthetic 5W30 will protect your daily driver perfectly anyway.
I ran a semi synthetic 10W30 for a couple of days as a way of flushing my oil before putting my synthetic 5W30 and I've noticed no difference in how the engine behaved while using the 10W30. It was around 20 Celsius so I figure it wouldn't make a difference.
If you live in an area where you never see freezing temps and get the occasional 40 degree celcuis days in the summer or have track days, 10W30 will be just fine if not better than 5W30.
I live in Canada and sometimes the summer days get chilly so I don't chance it with 10W30 since the oil is thicker when cold and a well made synthetic 5W30 will protect your daily driver perfectly anyway.
No, 10W-30 is not thicker than 5W-30 when at operating temperature, if it was it would be called a 10W-40 (or higher). The fact is, a 0W-30 trumps all other xW-30 oils regardless of climate.
No, 10W-30 is not thicker than 5W-30 when at operating temperature, if it was it would be called a 10W-40 (or higher). The fact is, a 0W-30 trumps all other xW-30 oils regardless of climate.
I was talking about how it behaved at cooler temps. I figured 10W30 warms up faster when it's already hot out though.
ive been curious as how 0W30 performs in our cars during the winter months though since it seems like it's getting colder and colder every year.
i don't get why there's a big discussion about 10W30 in hot climates since the W means winter and matters for cold climates. The owners manual states 10W30 can be used for the 99-01 models at certain temperature conditions and it won't cause harm. My TL ran 5W30 since day one and no abnormal wear was ever found on my used oil analysis. Just stick to what the book says, oil isn't something that should be complicated.
The fact is, a 0W-30 trumps all other xW-30 oils regardless of climate.
That's definitely not a fact.
Originally Posted by Darksyne
i don't get why there's a big discussion about 10W30 in hot climates since the W means winter and matters for cold climates.
It just means startup temperature viscosity. A nice day at 70F will cause 5W oil to have a certain thickness. In order to have that same thickness at 120F, you would need a higher W viscosity.
It just means startup temperature viscosity. A nice day at 70F will cause 5W oil to have a certain thickness. In order to have that same thickness at 120F, you would need a higher W viscosity.
yeah that's why I mentioned you're probably better off with 10W30 if you live in hotter areas like Phoenix and don't have to worry about freezing temps. When I ran it on a normal day my TL behaved just normally.
But where I live in Canada where it gets cold 70% of the year 5W30 is just perfect and the oil analysis proved that for me. The only thing I'm really curious about is the 0W30 synthetics since they weren't around when our cars were manufactured so I'm wondering if they would be better in the middle of winter.
It just means startup temperature viscosity. A nice day at 70F will cause 5W oil to have a certain thickness. In order to have that same thickness at 120F, you would need a higher W viscosity.
Originally Posted by Darksyne
yeah that's why I mentioned you're probably better off with 10W30 if you live in hotter areas like Phoenix and don't have to worry about freezing temps. When I ran it on a normal day my TL behaved just normally.
But where I live in Canada where it gets cold 70% of the year 5W30 is just perfect and the oil analysis proved that for me. The only thing I'm really curious about is the 0W30 synthetics since they weren't around when our cars were manufactured so I'm wondering if they would be better in the middle of winter.
Sorry, it is very definitely a fact. At full operating temperature, the difference between the two is minor, however, even in hot weather with the OAT over 100°F, 0W-30 will flow to the upper extremities of the engine measurably quicker than 5W-30 or 10W-30.
0W-30 definitely trumps all over other oils, Even Mobil 1 claims is their best oil EVER. Just find oil analysis tests and you can see 0W-30 being top 3 in all of them.. 0W is revolutionary as it can only be made with the highest degrees of Synthetic Oil specs. Its the king of the synthetics as its as pure 100% synthetic as it can get.
If it wasn't any good it would not be chosen for "RACING" Specs oils:
Royal Purple Top of the Bunch 0W-5: ""XPR 0W-5 - Racing-3.1
Royal Purple's lowest viscosity engine oil designed for the most competitive classes such as Pro Stock, Pro Stock Bike, Comp Eliminator, NASCAR (Qualifying). The ultra low viscosity provides the most horsepower possible by keeping parasitic losses to an absolute minimum while providing unparalleled protection.""
0W-40 is what is going into my TL-S next summer...
If Acura didn´t say that by some reason the J37 could not use 0W I would have switched that too.
Sorry, it is very definitely a fact. At full operating temperature, the difference between the two is minor, however, even in hot weather with the OAT over 100°F, 0W-30 will flow to the upper extremities of the engine measurably quicker than 5W-30 or 10W-30.
Id be too nervous to run a 0W oil during warmer weather since it'll be so thin on startup and won't provide much protection until it warms up.
the whole point of running a 0W oil is so that it can flow as best it can at sub zero temps so that oil can still reach moving parts and warm up properly without metal wear. It's not a universal oil even though manufacturers are trying to make it one for fuel economy numbers.
Royal Purple XPR Oils (XPR is the highest degree of Racing oils RP makes):
XPR 0W-5 - Racing-3.1
Royal Purple's lowest viscosity engine oil designed for the most competitive classes such as Pro Stock, Pro Stock Bike, Comp Eliminator, NASCAR (Qualifying). The ultra low viscosity provides the most horsepower possible by keeping parasitic losses to an absolute minimum while providing unparalleled protection.
XPR 0W-10 - Racing-9
An ultra-lite viscosity racing oil for small to medium displacement engines. Excellent drag race and motorcycle sprint racing oil.
XPR 5W-20 - Racing-11
Formulated to withstand exotic fuels including alcohol, methanol, and nitrous oxide (NO2).
XPR 5W-30 - Racing-21
A very versatile oil that can be used from bracket to circle track to motorcycle racing.
XPR 10W-40 - Racing-41
Capable of withstanding long intervals of extreme heat and it works especially well with alcohol and methanol. Designed for marine, sprint cars, late models, endurance car racing and street hot rod engines.
XPR 20W-50 - Racing-51
Formulated for sprint cars, late models, marine, and big block bracket racing. Ideal for any high output racing application under extreme heat and pressure conditions for an extended period of time.
Engineered for enthusiasts seeking maximum protection and performance. Precision-formulated with cutting-edge technology and a longstanding devotion to making the world's best motor oil. The result: engine protection that blows the doors off the highest industry standards.
• 50% more cleaning power vs. AMSOIL OE Motor Oil
• Ideal for turbos & direct injection
• Guaranteed protection for up to 25,000 miles or 1 year
Royal Purple XPR Oils (XPR is the highest degree of Racing oils RP makes):
XPR 0W-5 - Racing-3.1
Royal Purple's lowest viscosity engine oil designed for the most competitive classes such as Pro Stock, Pro Stock Bike, Comp Eliminator, NASCAR (Qua lifying). The ultra low viscosity provides the most hors
epower possible by keeping parasitic losses to an absolute minimum while providing unparalleled protection.
XPR 0W-10 - Racing-9
An ultra-lite viscosity racing oil for small to medium displacement engines. Excellent drag race and motorcycle sprint racing oil.
XPR 5W-20 - Racing-11
Formulated to withstand exotic fuels including alcohol, methanol, and nitrous oxide (NO2).
XPR 5W-30 - Racing-21
A very versatile oil that can be used from bracket to circle track to motorcycle racing.
XPR 10W-40 - Racing-41
Capable of withstanding long intervals of extreme heat and it works especially well with alcohol and methanol. Designed for marine, sprint cars, late models, endurance car racing and street hot rod engines.
XPR 20W-50 - Racing-51
Formulated for sprint cars, late models, marine, and big block bracket racing. Ideal for any high output racing application under extreme heat and pressure conditions for an extended period of time.
0W5 oil Yikes! Might as well run your car on Canola. I agree 0W oils flow better than all the other ones but it's so thin when it's already warm outside it's not necessary unless you're into performance and want every variable accounted for.
Well its a given its being used to squeeze every HP out of an Engine in Racing Environments..
So it can easily handle Daily Duty job at any high weather temp. Amsoil even goes as far as saying its Ideal for Turbo Applications so its ideal for stupid high temp use.
As you see the highest 10W/20W oils are designed for the MAXIMUM HP and Displacement Engines... No way in hell a boosted J35 needs either.
The fact is, a 0W-30 trumps all other xW-30 oils regardless of climate.
Originally Posted by horseshoez
Sorry, it is very definitely a fact.
Sorry, but it's really not. You've made a very broad blanket statement. There are several air cooled motorcycles that require at least 15W. I'm sure you didn't mean to include those in your absurdly generalized statement, but that's the reason you shouldn't state such huge claims as fact.
Originally Posted by horseshoez
even in hot weather with the OAT over 100°F, 0W-30 will flow to the upper extremities of the engine measurably quicker than 5W-30 or 10W-30.
Well, duh. It would flow quicker at startup regardless of ambient temperature. It's a lower viscosity oil.
But hey, I'm no expert on oil. I'll definitely check out the 0W stuff and see if it's a better choice for my application. Thanks for the input.
Id be too nervous to run a 0W oil during warmer weather since it'll be so thin on startup and won't provide much protection until it warms up.
the whole point of running a 0W oil is so that it can flow as best it can at sub zero temps so that oil can still reach moving parts and warm up properly without metal wear. It's not a universal oil even though manufacturers are trying to make it one for fuel economy numbers.
Ummm, you do realize that 0W-30 at say 100°F is way-WAY thicker than a 10W-30 at operating temperature; don't you?
The thing is, the 0W aspect of an oil grade doesn't mean the oil is too thin, all it means is that it doesn't thicken as much when it cools.
Ummm, you do realize that 0W-30 at say 100°F is way-WAY thicker than a 10W-30 at operating temperature; don't you?
The thing is, the 0W aspect of an oil grade doesn't mean the oil is too thin, all it means is that it doesn't thicken as much when it cools.
Shake a bottle of 0W30 oil and a bottle of 10W30 oil and you'll be able to tell immediately which oil is less viscous at room temp.
what I'm saying is runing a 0W oil in 30 to 40 degree Celsius weather will run thinner than what a 5w or 10w oil will be upon start up. Yes the oil will get to parts of the engine slightly sooner but the film will be so thin the metal parts will risk making more contact with each other.
W stands for winter for a reason the rating is meant for cold temps, you don't need a degree to prove that since engineers already have.
Sorry, but it's really not. You've made a very broad blanket statement. There are several air cooled motorcycles that require at least 15W. I'm sure you didn't mean to include those in your absurdly generalized statement, but that's the reason you shouldn't state such huge claims as fact.
Well, duh. It would flow quicker at startup regardless of ambient temperature. It's a lower viscosity oil.
But hey, I'm no expert on oil. I'll definitely check out the 0W stuff and see if it's a better choice for my application. Thanks for the input.
Okay, last try then I'll walk away...
First off, the context of this discussion is liquid cooled automobile engines.
As for an oil spec requiring 15W-xx oil, it is most likely assuming conventional oil which is far less stable than a 0W-xx synthetic (there are almost no 0W-xx non-synthetic oil on the market). There are several factors at play here including but not limited to the following:
Air cooled engines almost always have cylinder bores which feature a "choke" in that, when cold, are narrower at the top of the bore than at the bottom. As the engine warms up, the bore expands further at the top (where it is the hottest), and a nice thick oil is necessary to prevent the cylinder walls from becoming scored during the critical warm-up process (something which is necessary for air cooled and discouraged for water cooled engines).
Air cooled motorcycle engines are frequently left to sit for weeks or months on end without being started; most (all?) air cooled motorcycles come with a conventional oil recommendation because of the higher volatility of the oil. So? It has been demonstrated in air cooled engines where conventional oil yields gases which effectively varnish internal engine components, and it is this varnish which helps protect the engine from condensation water which causes internal corrosion.
Shake a bottle of 0W30 oil and a bottle of 10W30 oil and you'll be able to tell immediately which oil is less viscous at room temp.
what I'm saying is runing a 0W oil in 30 to 40 degree Celsius weather will run thinner than what a 5w or 10w oil will be upon start up. Yes the oil will get to parts of the engine slightly sooner but the film will be so thin the metal parts will risk making more contact with each other.
W stands for winter for a reason the rating is meant for cold temps, you don't need a degree to prove that since engineers already have.
Clearly you do not understand how oil works as it warms up.
If you're brave enough, shake a bottle of hot 0W-30 and hot 10W-30; they will both be far less viscous than even the 0W-30 at room temperature, and yet they will have roughly the same viscosity as each other.
Fact, all oils thin as they warm, 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 included. The beauty of 0W-30 oil compared to its two -30 siblings is that it is a bit closer to proper operating viscosity when cold than the other two. Slice it and dice it any way you want, that is nothing but beneficial for the engine.
By the way, I am an engineer and have worked for three separate automotive manufacturers.
Last edited by horseshoez; 11-06-2017 at 03:05 PM.
my thoughts exactly 😜 All the used oil analysis I've done on my car proves that 5W30 works as best as possible and unless they make an oil that reverses wear there isn't a better choice 😂 Now if I do run into an abnormally cold winter I do have some Mobil 1 0W30 just in case.
my thoughts exactly 😜 All the used oil analysis I've done on my car proves that 5W30 works as best as possible and unless they make an oil that reverses wear there isn't a better choice 😂 Now if I do run into an abnormally cold winter I do have some Mobil 1 0W30 just in case.
Odds on bet you've never had a UOA performed on 0W-30 when run in the summer time, it would blow the results of your 5W-30 test away.
11-03-2017, 10:32 PM
