Robauto

Did you have to reflash PCM?

acutee

They don't have the same gear. AV6 has shorter gears.

TL-S 2.2rpm = 80mph
AV6 2.5rpm = 80mph

MBP 03

Below are the gear ratios for the AV6:

• First Gear Ratio (:1) : 2.56
• Second Gear Ratio (:1) : 1.55
• Third Gear Ratio (:1) : 1.02
• Fourth Gear Ratio (:1) : 0.73
• Fifth Gear Ratio (:1) : 0.52
• Reverse Ratio (:1) : 1.85
• Final Drive Axle Ratio (:1) : 4.43

Per the shop manual, the TL-S has the same gear ratios as above. The TL-P has a slightly different 4th and 5th gear ratios.

acutee

TL-S 2002-2003 Gear Ratios: (look at 4th and 5th gear vs av6 ratio)

No of gears: 5

1st: 2.563
2nd: 1.551
3rd: 1.021
4th: 0.653
5th: 0.47
R: 1.846
Final drive ratio std: 4.428

Skirmich

^ Those are TL-p Ratios..
Again AV6 has exactly, number by number the same gear ratios as TLS, I don't recall the final drive but it could be a little different, Note on "A Little".

TLS vs TLp only 4th and 5th Gear have different gear ratios.
AV6, TLp, TLS share the same gear ratios through 1-3 gears.

komike

Anybody have any recommendations for a shop in the SF Bay Area?

Nukeproof

I'm also looking for a shop in SF Bay Area who could locate and install an 06-07 AV6 tranny as well. I think my 2002 TLS tranny is going out as I have P0740 code on mine with just 71K miles. I don't want to rebuild my POS tranny.

RWD2CLS

Currently in the process of swapping an 07 accord transmission into my 01 CLS. Would there be any problem if I moved the oil jet kit from the CLS tranny to the Accord? Aside from making drain/fill a little more difficult I cant see what any negatives would be to having the extra cooling.

Trader122312

I am in the middle of my Av6 swap I have 2 questions. 1. what size hose did you use for the power steering loop. my fittings are two different sizes so neither hose that was used will work. 2. Im going to do the rear main seal while in there. The process pull flywheel drain oil and???? Is it as simple as pulling the seal and popping in a new one or is there something im missing?

I would have figured out already but im on 2 weeks shipping for my rear motor mount its out for delivery today. But there is no way im not doing the rear with the condition of the front mount. Cant wait to complete this its gong to be a whole new machine.

MBP 03

I can't comment on the hose size since I didn't have to deal with this on my TL-S.

As far as the rear main seal goes, you do not need to drain the oil before removing it. You have to unbolt the drive plate, pull the old seal out and tap the new one in, making sure that it goes in straight and bottoms out in the cover.

stevebiecko75

sorry if this is a dumb question, as the thread is titled AV6 swap, but to verify, will a 2007 TL trans work as a swap candidate into a 2001 tl-s?
ie/ is there any difference between the 07 accord trans and the 07 TL trans for swap purposes??
thanks

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

I kept my oil jet, added an external cooler and extra in line filter as well.

02tljj

I asked the same question and got an answer. Go to post #264 here to answer your hose question: https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-905115/page7/

If you can't find a reducer coupling (as with me), I just bought a 3/8" hose clamp for the smaller pipe and clamped it down hard. That did the trick.

I saw a bunch of youtube videos on changing seals. It looks like it requires a screw driver to pry original one off and a cup with the same circumference of the seal to carefully knock it back in with some type of grease.

stevebiecko75

thanks to everyone on this post.
Just picked up my 2001 cl-s from the shop with it's new donor 07 accord trans.
As a plus while trying to find a shop to do the actual swap i met a great acura certified tech who now runs his own shop in Joliet IL. (Jim at compass auto)
Thanks again to everyone

Skirmich

^ Tell us how it goes

Sapiophile75

I have an '02 TL base that had a '06 conversion. It has over 20k miles on it since dropped in. Shifts beautifully and has had zero problems. My car runs like a beast. Started to get the familiar bearing hum from the driver side that has progressively gotten worse. Usually gets profound around 35-40 mph. Ok just a wheel bearing right? Well 2 wheel bearings and a half shaft later, it is still there. I've had a couple opinions, but my remaining guess would be the shaft bearing in the transmission case or maybe the carrier/jack bearing on the passenger shaft. Anyone run into this on a TL? It is a stumper for several good mechanics. One of them even ran the problem on a paid mechanic's forum and got back no hits.

TLer trash

When you say you did 2 bearings, did you re-do the driver side, or replace both fronts? I've been completely convinced it was one corner on a road test, only to find a different corner with a stethoscope on the hoist. Don't overlook the rears. I've also had uneven tire wear sound exactly like a wheel bearing. Typically, a wheel bearing will change it's sound when you swerve back and forth on a smooth road. Sometimes tires will as well, but usually not as pronounced. The mid-shaft bearing on the passenger axle is not as common, usually won't change sound when you swerve, and is easy to pick up on a hoist with a stethoscope. If it is a bearing in the trans, you'll typically also hear a change in noise between accel, coast, and decel.

Sapiophile75

Yes both fronts. Re-did the driver-side/hub/half shaft. Every experienced mechanic have all said coming from the left side. One transmission specialist said is has to be the right wheel bearing and potentially the jack/carriage bearing on the passenger shaft. I know that people can easily mistake sides for source of sound, but this a very profound left-hand sound. Sound of a bad right bearing could not resonate all the way over by the driver wheel/side. We've already put an ear to the right floor. Not a steth, but I think it was sufficient. Also everyone did the tests for a bad bearing on the right side too. I'll check the rear bearings too. Good points.

kelvllv

I have put 50k miles since the av6 swap, runs great without any issues so far. If anyone in the SF bay area is looking for a shop to install shoot me a PM.

daneli

I'm new here and I just wanted to say a word of appreciation to this site for all information about the AV6 swap. I recently purchased a CL Type S. Although generally in good condition, the price was low due to a blown transmission. I had intended to try my hand at rebuilding the transmission myself, but I decided to do the AV6 swap after reading about it here. I found a 2006 Accord transmission about an hour from me with 80,000 miles on it. It was cheap because a top bracket was broken and one of the solenoids didn't work. (I knew from reading the FAQ thread that the broken bracket was in fact only used in Accords and not Acuras.) It took me a weekend to do the swap myself, along with a few hours of after-work time the following week.

The transmission shifts great and the car is a pleasure to drive. I was disappointed however to discover the AV6 had a minor leak. (A few drops left on the pavement after every drive.) I found a small divot of metal dug out of the top of the rear back cover - about half the diameter of a dime. There is a tiny crack in the middle of this – about 1/8” in length - and that is where the leak is. My guess is that the Accord this transmission came out of was involved in an accident that might have pushed the inner fender into the back of the transmission.

I sealed the leak with JB weld. It is holding so far, though it may be necessary in the future to remove the transmission and replace the back cover.

The Cl's original transmission suffered from the usual faults: Third gear was another neutral, some of the fine mesh screens on the solenoids were clogged, the fluid was dark and burned with bits of clutch material floating in it, and the torque converter had that blue/rainbow tinge that Hiram Gutierrez says is a sign of severe overheating.

There were a couple things I had to swap over from the CL transmission that weren't mentioned in the main AV6 FAQ. These include two brackets used to retain wiring clips, and the breather hose. The AV6 cover for the range selector switch is a very tight fit on the CL range selector harness. The bracket that holds the Type S 2nd throttle body - the secondary throttle plate controlled by the VSA system - doesn't fully line up with the available bolt holes on the AV6. Since I was following the AV6 FAQ and retaining the CL's original warmer/cooler, I used the Factory Workshop Manual's suggestion to keep the cooler/warmer water hoses connected while unbolting it from the transmission case. This meant I didn't have to deal with draining/refilling the cooling system. (I did make sure to throughly clean out the cooler/warner oil passage however.) I kept the AV6 filter arrangement and replaced the filter element.

The Honda transmission debacle of the early 2000's really damaged Honda's reputation for quality and engineering excellence. Poor design decisions, defects in materials and manufacturing, egregious failures in quality control, etc, made Honda seem like just another mega-corporation that had lost touch with its core commitments. The fact that the AV6 corrects most of the earlier faults and that we can use this to keep these cars on the road gives the story a much better ending!

Sapiophile75

Nothing to do with transmission case bearings. Was the jack bearing on the intermediate shaft passenger-side. So close to the tranny that it gave a misleading driver-side noise. Must a be fairly uncommon point of failure since so many mechanics really couldn't pinpoint it right away. Maybe not as much load on it in comparison to a wheel bearing.

SuperGreg

Just checked the shop manual, Type-S ratios are exactly the same as AV6 ratios posted earlier including final drive.

MikeekiM

I am also interested in the name of any shop(s) in the SF Bay Area that would (and has successfully) do this swap... I am already on my 2nd transmission, and will absolutely not be investing more in this flawed solution...

wicked02

New here and will be doing the AV6 swap myself. I was planning on getting rid of the car but after reading all this I hope it turns out well. Keeps you guys posted on the outcome.

CP13

How's your progress on the AV6 swap?

wicked02

Barely got time yesterday to start. Tranny should be out today. Found a couple trannys around town. They all ranging around $650. Let u know after i complete it.

CP13

Where are you located? Man I wish I could find one for that price around here...

wicked02

I am in El Paso Tx. Got it for $700.

CP13

cheapest I found around my area is $750 but with 116k miles... Anything less than 80k miles are priced from $900-1200

Skirmich

I took my TL for a spin today (I mainly use my MDX to commute) holy christ..... I am loving again my TL-S like it was the first time... The AV6 is so quick it makes D5 fun which is impressive in itself, worth the swap alone just to make Full Drive exciting. I never touched SS in all the drive because it wasn't worth it, The downshifts are quick as hell so you don't need to kick down in SS anymore.

I encourage anyone with a TL to do this swap...
Not only you will have an incredibly reliable car but you will also get a stupid quick transmission.


I will preach the AV6 Faith till the end of time.

666wokker

Now you need to take it out on the track to get the full effect, have the same fun I've had with it!

It still doesn't beat a manual, but it really snaps the up and downshifts really well! I've been nothing but impressed with how it reacts on track, it takes a true beating and keeps on going!

MarcDavidoff

True- if I had experienced the difference between the two a couple of years ago, I would have swapped mine out then even though it was just starting to show signs of failing.

Skirmich

I am still wondering how fast the TL did get with the swap? I cant say its the trans ratios itself since they are the same as my TL-S, Maybe the faster shifts? or Perhaps the torque convertor makes the difference? Difference in the Stator perhaps? or a Combination of Both the faster shifts and the TC.



And my wife was temping me to do another rebuild thank god I insisted on waiting.

wicked02

Giving you all an update. Tranny is in. Only problem is light not coming when i shift into neutral and D5. Would that be the neutral switch? Other than that it is working good.

666wokker

Yes, either it needs to be adjusted, or you need a new one.

Try the adjustment first ☺

shawn.m

Basically take the console apart pull side tunnel covers off reach in with a 12 mm socket unscrew nut about three turns and the lever will go to the right gear. Tighten nut to shift cable. Make sure correct gear indicator light comes on.
Had to do it on my av6 swap in that I just completed

wicked02

I adjusted the neutral switch at the tranny. Loosen the two 10mm bolts and adjust until light comes on. My TL is working great. Drives better than my wifes is250.

Tonylafama20

Do you still have the mechanics number that did your swaap in the Bronx?

TensorWorld

Hey everyone. I've been lurking for a long time and try to find stuff without posting but I've started swapping my 02 TL S to the 06 Accord trans and I have a few questions. I have swapped over the 3rd/4th harness, cooler/heater and range selector.

First, I swapped over the range selector and I think I have it aligned in the right gear but there is an alignment rotation of like 10 degrees and I can't find anything explaining how to align it if I didn't do it right to start with. Can someone link to something explaining how to know it's correct?

Second, I have an extra filter for the old trans but the new filter section is different. Should I just get a new filter for the new transmission or is there some reason to use the old one?

Finally, I assume the accord trans fluid is the same as the TL fluid but I picked up Honda ATF at Honda just to be sure. That's fine right?

Thanks y'all.

SuperGreg

You can adjust it when it's installed in the car, you just need to run through the gears on the shifter and make sure the correct gear selection shows up in the dashboard. I believe the sensor has a detent in the neutral position, so if you have issues you can put the car in neutral, loosen the sensor and rotate it until you feel the detent, tighten it up and start from there.

The swap instructions said to swap the filter parts over, so I did that just so it would continue to take the filter it always has. I don't think there would be a problem using the newer filter style, I was wondering if there would be issues with clearance against the side of the engine bay but it's probably OK.

Honda ATF-DW1 is the exact same between Honda/Acura.