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The problem with the ATF Warmer is that the tubes are looking at the wrong side on the AV6... So the Coolant tubes will not reach comfortably and they will end up with a nasty Kink.
It is not difficult at all to swap it over and once you do you have a perfect Plug & Play ATF Warmer for the OEM Coolant Passages.
I know you have to swap over the fluid warmer, but do you *have* to swap over the filter body as well? Or could you keep the new AV6 style filter? I forget now whether the top of both were the same and compatible with either warmer. I kind of wish I would have just kept the new filter as swapping over the filter body parts is a gigantic pain in the ass since you have to scrape the old gasket material off. And, those filters are cheaper.
If I remember correctly, there was at least one person in the last few years who did the swap and kept the newer style filter housing. When I did my swap back in 2013, I re-used the original filter housing and I do recall having to scrape that paper gasket, but fortunately, I had a good scraper set, so it didn't put up too much of a fight.
Well I've put 250 miles on my accord trans so far. Shifts super smooth and no more whinning/whistling sound like the old one. Another successful swap! So far lol
Currently in the process of swapping an 07 accord transmission into my 01 CLS. Would there be any problem if I moved the oil jet kit from the CLS tranny to the Accord? Aside from making drain/fill a little more difficult I cant see what any negatives would be to having the extra cooling.
Wow, i started this swap in February of 2015.....
Here to report that I finally finished it last night, running/driving/shifting great! Have to bleed the brakes and do a couple other small things but it drove around the neighborhood like a dream.
Youtube mechanic at best, first install went bad. The transmission was clocked so 1 of the bolts wouldn't line up but it wasn't discovered until waaaaay too late...like completely put back together too late. Also was plagued with a number of broken sensors. Had my transmission temp sensor snap off in the transmission...that took months of on and off again trying to get the piece that broke off out.
But its done...also kept the coolant jet that was there from the previous transmission.
These are the instructions my brother used when he converted my transmission back in March 2012. I am five thousand miles later, and the car drives, shifts, and runs great. I have never been a Honda fan, but this car is great. As you can see with the short amount of time and the large amount of miles driven. I recently took the car on a 2200 mile roadtrip it was amazing. Enough said about the tranny swap. Make sure to do all of the conversions when the trannies are side by side.
The entire trans oil heater assy, including the plate under the heater/cooler itself, and all of the brackets *don't forget a new gasket for the plate and anew trans filter* If the old trans has an oiljet kit installed, you will have to cut the t's out of it and fasten a new hose to both ends of the intermediate line.
The transmission range selector (otherwise known as 'neutral safety switch')will have to be swapped from the old trans, the newer switch has a different connector.
There is a small wire harness that connects to the 3 and 4 clutch pressures witches and the oil temp sensor, that will need to be swapped as well, theharness has a different connector to plug into the engine harness, but all theplugs going to the switches / sensors are the same.
You should not have to drill or tap anything, that's only with Odyssey transmissions, and very few at that.
I don't think the TL-S comes equipped with the power steering speed sensor, butif your's has it, it will need to be taken out of the picture... remove thehoses going to the rack, then loop a small hose point to point on the rackitself.
...... and that's it! Real simple, everything is direct bolt-on.
I used a tranny from an 06-07 Accord v6 auto trans listed as this:
A.T., Cpe (2 Dr), 3.0L (6 cyl) MAKE SURE THE TRANS YOU BUY COMES WITH THE TORQUE CONVERTER, and if it DOSEN'Tget a NEW ONE!!! DO NOT USE THE OLD ONE, YOU WILL DESTROY THE NEW TRANS!!!!
Im almost don't with my av6 swap in my 02tls the last plug-in that says tcm 1 and some other numbers, don't plug in. It's nothing that has been swapped idk if I mixed up a plug. Any ideas.?
Correct. there are 2 blank plugs. one behind the rocker cover(1st picture). The other one in your hand goes on the trans (2nd picture)
I'm having some issues finishing up my av6 swap in my 02 TLs. I have one last wire that says TCM 1 and a bunch of other numbers. All the wires are black and yellow and is apart of the entire harness so it was nothing that was swapped over It doesn't seem to plug in anywhere else but right in the back of the motor to another plug that says tcm1. Did I miss something somewhere? Idk if you'll see this or not. Or if you can help me or not 586-823-9415 if that's easier too
I'm having some issues finishing up my av6 swap in my 02 TLs. I have one last wire that says TCM 1 and a bunch of other numbers. All the wires are black and yellow and is apart of the entire harness so it was nothing that was swapped over It doesn't seem to plug in anywhere else but right in the back of the motor to another plug that says tcm1. Did I miss something somewhere? Idk if you'll see this or not. Or if you can help me or not 586-823-9415 if that's easier too
Bare with me I'm still a little confused I'm just not seeing where they would plug-in at. Are you saying they are extra a won't be used??
Are there markings on the transmission to verify its the correct AV6 trans? I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on one locally with 92k and a 6 month warranty BUT, its from an 06 Accord, 3.0 motor with IMA - Integrated Motor Assist, does that matter?
Are there markings on the transmission to verify its the correct AV6 trans? I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on one locally with 92k and a 6 month warranty BUT, its from an 06 Accord, 3.0 motor with IMA - Integrated Motor Assist, does that matter?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe IMA was exclusive to the Hybrid version of the Accord. Assuming that's true then the transmission is not compatible with the TL.
NOPE WILL NOT WORK! That's the Hybrid. You need a trans from an 06-07 Accord V6 automatic non hybrid. Behind the transmission dipstick should be a sticker saying BAYA
I got it all back together. Have flashing d5, vsa, check engine. I haven't gotten a code yet I'm honestly afraid to death to drive it and possibly damage something.
try removing the clock/back up fuse #13 for 10 seconds from the passenger side fuse box. This will reset your pcm and possibly clear those lights.
Does the transmission make any funny noises with the engine running. Have you cycled between drive and reverse and do they seem to engage properly? If everything sounds ok I'd say take it for a short spin around the block and go from there. as long as there is fluid in the trans, I can't imagine damaging it.
try removing the clock/back up fuse #13 for 10 seconds from the passenger side fuse box. This will reset your pcm and possibly clear those lights.
Does the transmission make any funny noises with the engine running. Have you cycled between drive and reverse and do they seem to engage properly? If everything sounds ok I'd say take it for a short spin around the block and go from there. as long as there is fluid in the trans, I can't imagine damaging it.
Yeah went through all the grears everything seems to engage and move. I noticed what sounded like a slight lifter tick almost maybe not sure. And when I turned the car off it had a scrape sound. Could that be torque converter? I was unaware that you're supposed to fill the torque converter until it was already installed of course
So how noticeable is the power steering in say, parking lots, driveways, low speeds etc? Is it similar to no power steering at all or just a bit more stiff?
So how noticeable is the power steering in say, parking lots, driveways, low speeds etc? Is it similar to no power steering at all or just a bit more stiff?
Maybe others will chime in but from what I've read it's just a little stiffer.
So how noticeable is the power steering in say, parking lots, driveways, low speeds etc? Is it similar to no power steering at all or just a bit more stiff?
I've lost the context of the above question; what is being compared?
For the TLP you need to loop the lines coming off the rack going to the power steering speed sensor assembly on the TL trans, the AV6 trans does not have the hole in it for the sensor. TL-p uses a Speed Sensitive PS Pump which requires that smaller pump to give it an extra oomp at higher speeds.
The Type-S vehicles use a Torque Sensitive PS Pump with a Variable Vane so there is no change to the steering system for them.
It runs great. Went and recovered some codes at the autoparts store on the way to work. It's all electrical related. I have vsa light on, d5 flashing, no sport shift. And seems to only have 2nd and 3rd gear. Would start off in 3rd and I'd have to manually shift into second at a stop light or whatever instead if taking off in 3rd gear. But these are the codes
I'm betting it's something simple if you didn't have the ABS issues before the install.
Double check all your plug connectors by disconnecting and reconnecting until you hear/feel it "click".
Also, try cleaning the contact points for the two transmission ground wires. One ground wire goes from the battery to just below the starter, the other is from the body to a transmission bracket just below and aft of the battery tray.
inspect all the wires for damage to make sure you didn't pinch any during the install.
So in the next day or two, I'm gonna recheck all the wires and whatnot. I would have to think something is going to have to be reset as far as computers? I live way up North in Michigan nearest Acura dealer is 4 hrs away in Wisconsin. There has to be some way to do it yourself procedures to reset computer vsa and all that?
So went and gave a everything a once over everything seemed to plug in fine. I went to start it up. Now P,R,N,3,2 do not light up on dash when shifter is moved to either. D5 still flashing d4 does light up when lever is in d4 as well as 1st. And whie trying to start it, cranks and cranks but will not start!!? Tried to start in N same with no dash light saying it's in neutral crank no start. I did however check the grounds and clean the surfaces pulled clock backup fuse for a few seconds to try and reset. Noticed a leak from around 3rd or 4th pressure switch possibly temp sensor. Might swap that out in a few minutes here. Any info or experience would be great. this is quite a learning experience with this TL
Also forgot to mention I did pull fuze for ecm in driver side fuze box I really hope nothing fried or something tragic happened I'm really cutting it close on the warranty for the tranny.
So I bought a 05/06 Oddy trans years ago with anticipation that I may have to do the swap. I have not needed to yet but I just wanted to see if I could still use that trans in my garage for the swap. I know a 06/07 AV6 maybe more ideal but I hope the Oddy trans I have now would still work. It's kinda buried so I can't see the tranny code right now.
I've just done a BAYA swap on my 03 TL. I've run in to a problem, the exact same issue as in post #542 with the torque converter not bolting up to the flexplate. I pulled the transmission out of a (supposed) 06 Accord. I didn't run the VIN to make sure. I bought a reman TC from my local transmission rebuilder (reputable) that was supposedly for a 06 Accord with a BAYA transmission.
I have a decent shop so I relocated the holes on the existing TL flexplate and it will now bolt up. I wish to avoid this situation when I do my CL next year. Was I supposed to get the flexplate from the 06 Accord when I got the transmission? I'm not quite sure but I think it only had 6 bolts to hold on the flexplate whereas my TL has 8.
Also, I'm keeping the Accord external filter setup because of the cheaper filter and a bit easier replacement. I have a question about the cooler swap. If I keep the Accord filter, I don't need to change the plate underneath it do I? Actually, I'm not sure I could if I want to keep the Accord filter.
Thanks...I really appreciate any tidbits of information that y'all may be able to pass on....
Not sure where you are in the swap now, but it might help to remove the flexplate and line it up to the torque converter while it is out of the car. if it's in, you should be able to rotate the TC and get it to line up, there are a few holes in the TC that can throw you off as they are not meant for connecting the two together.
Did you replace the rear main seal while you were there? it's highly recommended by all.
I've just done a BAYA swap on my 03 TL. I've run in to a problem, the exact same issue as in post #542 with the torque converter not bolting up to the flexplate. I pulled the transmission out of a (supposed) 06 Accord. I didn't run the VIN to make sure. I bought a reman TC from my local transmission rebuilder (reputable) that was supposedly for a 06 Accord with a BAYA transmission.
I have a decent shop so I relocated the holes on the existing TL flexplate and it will now bolt up. I wish to avoid this situation when I do my CL next year. Was I supposed to get the flexplate from the 06 Accord when I got the transmission? I'm not quite sure but I think it only had 6 bolts to hold on the flexplate whereas my TL has 8.
Also, I'm keeping the Accord external filter setup because of the cheaper filter and a bit easier replacement. I have a question about the cooler swap. If I keep the Accord filter, I don't need to change the plate underneath it do I? Actually, I'm not sure I could if I want to keep the Accord filter.
Thanks...I really appreciate any tidbits of information that y'all may be able to pass on....
So, besides having to re-machine holes in my existing flexplate because I bought a new Torque Converter for the Accord instead of the TL...The transmission swap went fairly well. Donor transmission worked well on the test drive. I have to replace the passenger side upper control arm due to a shot ball joint before I can do some serious driving, but I don't expect there to be any issues. I may have a tiny tranny fluid leak between one of the case joints but I'll have to deal with it I suppose. I'll update when I have a thousand miles on the Accord transmission!
No problem man. I actually had to drive a few hundred miles to get mine. And I paid. Around 1000$ for one with 29,000 miles
hey guys, sorry for hijacking thread. I’m in the process of potentially having to do a swap, is there any certain ones I should be looking at other than an accord 2006 or odyssey 2006 I have a 2003 Acura TL base with 165k miles.
So this is what happen from beginning to end we had the CEL come on checked codes p0740 took to shop did a drain and fill and had filter changed. That night we went down the road about 3 miles to get food, acted very erratic revving high when not even on gas, stopped dead at the corner for our street, turned it off and back on and it drove to the house fine, code came up as p0730. Changed double linear solenoid and did another drain fill. Also checked all the other solenoids with the exception of the one that we couldn’t get to due to starter. Now code p0780. Drives fine for a short period then starts being erratic again (the high revving while not on gas) is there a reason why it acts like this only when it’s warm?
03-16-2017, 03:17 PM
Finally complete and it works!
