thephantom

Well, brought my RL back to the dealer again... Second time this month, and found the front and side motor mounts are bad. Hopefully this visit counts as my September visit (I have been back to the dealer once a month for the past six months).

titomang

How many miles on the RL? And was the vehicle shaking, vibrating, pulling to the side etc for them to determine the mounts were bad.

-titomang

MrKev

What have you gotten done every time you had to go the dealer?

thephantom

MfKev: This is from my previous post: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-2005-2012-76/good-thing-i-purchased-extended-warranty-890683/

Since the car was a CPO, the extended warranty only cost around $1,100. Thus far, I've claimed about $1,800 in warranty services. The warranty expires in January, and I sure hope anything that can go wrong will go before then!

Warranty Claims:

1. Power steering pump
2. Front and rear left door actuators
3. Right door handle/sensor
4. Rear sway links and bushings

CPO covered:

1. Alternator
2. Complete center console (because of the bubbling arm rest)
3. Drive shaft
4. HID Driver Bulb

titomang:

My RL is an 07 with about 85K miles.

The car has been shaking since the day I picked it up from the dealer @ 38K miles in 2010. I have brought the car back many times and the dealer could not find anything wrong with it. The shaking is fairly random and I have tried to find a common denominator but to no avail until last week. I was driving last week with the AC off and the moonroof open, which I have not done in the RL. The car was much smoother during my commute to work. I left a couple of hours later and opened the moonroof and no AC again, and the car drove surprising smooth. The only thin I could think of that's different was the AC, so I turned the AC on, and the car started to shake significantly. I promptly called my dealer to tell them my findings and wanted to schedule an appoint for them to take a look. I brought the car in today and went on a drive with a technician. At first, he could not distinguish the difference between AC on and AC off. However, he did admit that the car does shake a bit. At first he blamed the aftermarket rotors and the worn tires. However, the car had new tires and brakes when I first picked it up and it was already shaking. Then he did the brake stand test where he had the car in a brake stand, then he'd let got the brake and reapply the brake quickly, and there was a KLUNK sound from the engine compartment. The tech then associated the AC being attached to the engine so when the AC is on, it could make the car shake. They are going to replace the from and side engine mount tomorrow and we'll see what happens.

06RL/NBP

I just had my front and side engine mounts replaced after 95,000 miles. The front one completely separated and was in 2 pieces.

oo7spy

Yup. Doesn't seem to be a matter of "if" but rather, "when".

Carbon Legend

or get the XLR8 mounts and say never again

lazytik

Yeah mine are coming in tomorrow. Common issue.

Blues Legend

They used to fail on Preludes too - nice to know Honda is consistent!

thephantom

Got the RL back today and the extended warranty covered the $570 bill. The car still shakes, but definitely feels different - like a different kind of shake. I am going to replace the tires in a week or so and hopefully that'll take care of the rest of the vibration... or most of it.

EL19

iTrader: (4)

The shake or vibration may be coming from the rear mount which is attached to the firewall. If it's bad, the mount will not dampen the vibrations into the cabin like it should.

I replaced the front, side, and transmission mounts on the car for the 105K service. They were all destroyed. I have a suspsicion that I will need to replace them again in the next 12K miles which would put me at 150K miles. I'll just get the XLR8 ones this time.

thephantom

I guess I should dump this car soon!!

oo7spy

Your next car will break someday too.

thephantom

My RL has got to be the most unreliable vehicle I've ever owned. Yes, I know cars break and parts wear out, but this car seem to be in the shop once a month.

oo7spy

I won't argue that is isn't. There are risks and advantages in everything, and you happen to have been unlucky in your search for the most reliable car with lots of technology. The statistics are what they are though, and they support the RL's reliability compared to other cars.

To be completely honest, your list isn't very comprehensive and wouldn't qualify as a lemon in my book. If you think it does, there are laws to protect you from such occurrences. It also doesn't scream unreliable to me either.

It sucks you got a weak RL, but unless you are moving to a Lexus, the reliability numbers are on your side to move to another RL.

thephantom

I've never cried foul on the lemon law as it's far from it. The lemon law in MA states that the shop will have to fix the SAME issue three times in a certain amount of time to be considered as a lemon. I have not had recurring issue, other than the vibration and shaking, but I am not looking forward to what else can go wrong.

colouny

Thephantom could you explain the vibration a bit in more detail?
I have some kind of vibration, dunno where to start looking for the problem, wheels and tires are good for sure, cause tires are new, and rims are checked properly.
The most strong vibration is at around 73mph the more you go the less is vibration, i feel mostly not on steering wheel. I see the coke in the bottle vibrates, while its in the cup holder.

Is it the same with yours?

thephantom

My vibration starts at around 65MPH and becomes very distinctive at 75MPH. At 80MPH the car is uncomfortable to drive. I had the front and side motor mounts replaces last week, new Bridgestone Turanza Serenity Plus tires installed today, balanced, and checked for bent wheel (they are not bent), and I am still getting a vibration. The vibration I am feeling is 70% in the seat and feet area and 30% steering wheel.

Try this: Drive on the high way at 73MPH, put the car in cruise control, turn OFF your climate control and see if the car shakes. Then, turn on the auto climate control (with AC) and see if the car gets worse. My AC makes the car shake even more.

colouny

Will do that on Saturday, have a 150 mile hwy trip.
And what about idle? Did you get your valves adjusted?

EL19

iTrader: (4)

I still suggest you have your rear engine mount and your transmission mounts inspected and (if need be) replaced

JK7

Mine are toast now too, probably going to order the XLR8 kit, I have 185k on my RL though lol

Jack Mosca

My 07RL with 28,000 miles vibrates when stopped with car in drive and foot on the brake - adding AC increases the vibration. However the vibration does not always occur - twice to the dealer and we could not get car to vibrate - this past week caught the local Honda dealer when car was vibrating - they diagnosed problem as motor mounts - front and rear. I plan on keeping this car a long time - the car does not vibrate at 90 MPH (S Cal freeways) or during driving just when car is stopped in drive. Question: should I replace all 4 mounts? What is a XLR8 KIT? - what's the going price for 2 mounts replaced - 4?

thephantom

My front and side mounts were replaced under the extended warranty but I think the dealer charged $500 or so for the job.

oo7spy

If you are old and sensitive to vibrations, - I mean appreciate the smoothness of the RL - the XLR8 mounts may not be for you. You will trade mount longevity for dampened vibrations.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-2005-2012-76/check-your-motor-mounts-863157/

Jack Mosca

06Rl/nbp - what did you pay for having the 3 motor mounts replaced - acura dealer?
Thx

Frenetic

My motor mounts are toast, although I don't experience any vibration.

Here's the quote the dealer gave me:

Front motor mount replacement (found "broken"): $492
Right motor mount replacement (found "ruptured/leaking"): $336

Going to have them replaced when I do my timing belt service next year, or at least they suggested it be done at that time. My car has just under 90k miles.

oo7spy

That seems very steep. I would get a second opinion.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

your mounts are shot but you do not feel vibration... so you are just going to replace them anyway?

Do you have anything other than a service writer to give you cause

Frenetic

Yeah, I asked the same thing since I really wasn't experiencing any symptoms. However, they suggested that this be done concurrently with the timing belt change since access will be a lot easier with everything already off and considering how common this problem seems to be, I think I just may do that instead of waiting for things to worsen or vibrations to appear.

They found this during routine maintenance and inspection.

I plan on trying to drive this another 100k miles if possible since it's completely paid for, so I have no problems trying to preemptively find and fix things that crop up.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

fair enough, if you are happy then we are.

oo7spy

If they are doing this as part of the timing belt work, then that price seems even more outrageous.

Frenetic

Yeah, that's the price if I do it separately. If I do it with the timing belt, the front one will only cost me the price of the part.

The ticket generated during my last service showing recommended work automatically kicks out stand alone prices only and I quoted that to show the poster above me.

oo7spy

Ah, that's good. Sounds like a good plan then.

Türk

What do you think about my mounths?


There is a knock just after start.

Regards

oo7spy

Shift from P to R to D and listen. Hold the brake in D and rev a little.

Türk

Thank you for reply.
I'll try your advice.
Is that noise in video (after exhaust roars) pinion gear of the starter?

Regards

oo7spy

That's what the was for. There are so many things starting to move at start up, I have no idea.

If you can have someone watch the motor as you rev, that helps. Some movement is expected but not a lot, and it should be quiet.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

yup, you check mounts by revving the engine in park and looking for excessive movement.

Keep in mind that the mounts are vacuum activated.

Türk

Hey there.

Here is the video taken by my bro.


D position and BRAKE+ACCEL at the same time.

06RL/NBP

Mount #50830-SJA-305 $225.53
Mount #50820-SJA-A01 $203.62
Labor $210.00

Total $638.00 including tax