Hi.

Does anybody know about stall speed limits for RL?
(I've searched but found nothing)

Today I've figured out that my A/T stall speeds vary from D to R.

Stall speed on "D" is higher than "R".

D is about 2300 rpm and R is 2000.

It should not be.
What do you think?

 

Stall Speed rpm:
Specification:
1,850 rpm
Service Limit:
1,700-2,000 rpm
The stall speed should be the same in D and R
Probable causes:
ATF pump output low
Regulator valve stuck
Slipping clutch

 

Thanks for the reply.

Here is the video of my stall test:


Oil level is normal and always changed by authorised dealer.

The car is still under warranty. I will open a claim case within this week.

Can someone else also send their test videos or results?

Regards,
Türk

 

Only my transmission defective?

=)

 

Clutch is slipping? When I read up on what a stall speed test is, that was the main issue.

 

that would drive me crazy.

 

@oo7spy

Most probably it is clutch slipping.

Stall rpm on D is very high and R is high a little bit.

It means my 1st and 5th geat clutch are slipping and 1st gear's slip is higher.

The bad scenario is, my pump is also bad.

I will visit dealer on Friday.

@Heavy_RL

Me too...

 

I read about the test and tried to understand the application, but how does this affect normal driving? What difference can you tell when the RPMs are off mark?

 

so to be clear, you are off the brake and pressing the throttle with no movement?

 

From what I read, on the brake. Parking brake is usually set too. I also read that a lot of new transmissions will be damaged by this method of testing. I had never heard of it, but it is a way to test your torque converter.

 

hmmm, I'm going to pass on this diag.

 

In normal driving, you can't feel any difference if you have been driving same car for years. Consider clutches as "consumable" parts.
I drove an other Legend and felt a little difference. Other car's first and second gear performance was a little bit better.
I believe my engine's condition is perfect. So, I wanted to apply stall test to gearbox.

This test can damage you car if you DO NOT know what you are doing.
Stalling causes overheating and must be carried out only for 3-4 seconds.
If there ambient temp is high, wait to allow oil to cool down before testing R mode.

@HEAVY_RL and @oo7spy

Yes. I'm off the brake and pressing the throttle with no movement.
Also apply parking brake for safety.
Do not afraid of doing that. No big difference than checking engine months.
Some guys thinks that "I SHOULD KEEP PRESS THROTTLE FOR E FEW MINS TO CHECK ANY SLIPPAGE".

NEVER DO THAT.


Even manual gear, this is the way of testing your T/Convertor and clutches.

Just finish it as soon as possible!..



Take care of your gearboxes...

 

Off or on the brake?

 

thats what I thought... he is off!

 

No way setting the parking brake and pressing the throttle in drive won't move the car. It doesn't happen.

 

I might use a wrong description.

I mean PRESSING BRAKE and ACCELATOR at the same time.

Is this off brake or on brake?

(=

 

hahaha... that is on the brake.

 

Ahahaha...

Anyway, my English is better than your Turkish...

 

That is the truest thing I have heard all day.

 

 

my Turkish is google translate strong!

I made you something today:

 

@HEAVY_RL

Thank you for your interest Heavy.

But you need to press accelator pedal FULLY for a few second for stall test.

(Next time I'll prepare English video and let's see your Turkish one )

On the other hand, no power folding mirrors in US?

Have a great friday!

Türk

 

Yes, the test is where the torque converter will max out RPMs if the driveshaft is held idle. I don't think you really have to floor it (as I also read in the mentioned explanation), but you do have to try to get above 2500 rpm.

Heavy, I understand your hesitance to floor the car with the brake set.

 

You are right. The point is pressing accelator since rpm doesn't increase any more.


You had asked me about difference.
Here is my performance test video.


Focus to the first second of the video. When accelerating, the gear box starts "full clutching" around 2400 rpm. Which I have found on stall test.

0-100 km/h (0-60 mph) accelerating is about 1 sec slower than what it should be.

(Catalogue: 0-100 km/h is 7,3 sec)

That's my point.

Türk

 

oh yeah, I'm not game that test.

 

Hello to all.

Today I got my car back. I wanted a full diagnostic for my car's A/T.
All pressures found good. Dealer's owner also has a Legend. I wanted to try it to.
Is's stall test was also very similar to my test.
2350 RPM on D, 1900 RPM on R.

We could not understand that.
If someone can apply this test without afraiding, we can make it clear.


Awaiting your tests.



Have a perfect week.

 

so you want me to go from a standing start, with no brakes applied, at WOT or enough throttle to exceed 2500 RPMs, correct?

 

No. You need to apply brake.

Left foot: Fully press brake.
Right foot: Fully press accelator for 2-3 secs only. (untill RPM does not increases any more)

Engine must be warm and there should be no electrical load (even cooling fan)

Here my video again:


Do not afraid.

Thank you for your interest...

 

 

@HEAVY_RL

Thank you so so much for your interest and help.

It does not make any sense. Your transmission also out of limits according to shop manual.

My car, dealer owner's car and your car. They are almost same.
My old Euro Accord (Acura TSX) stall test was within limits even it was 10 years old.

I think the manual limits are wrong.

Anyone else to teste?

= )

Regards...

 

First off, I know that I am very late to this test but since I'm having some weird noises on my Legend recently, which I believe are coming from the drivers side, I am starting to suspect my transmission. My Legend is a 07 with only 57500 Kilometers on it (that's roughly 36500 Miles). In the service manual ( Link: https://www.mediafire.com/?k8jqxt8q6t7yq ) under "Auto Transmission", the "Stall Speed Test" is described @ page 262/263; it's definitely not a redneck way of testing.

I did this test with a cheap OBD II reader in my OBD Port to accurately measure the rpm with my smartphone.

Here are the results:

RPM in D: 2240
RPM in R: 1850 (bang on the spec)

Specs according the repair manual:

Specification: 1850rpm
Service Limit: 1700-2000rpm

As you can imagine, I was quite shocked to see my "D-result" way above the service limit, especially since the car is driven moderately and is so low on kilometers. I am not sure what to do with it at the moment.

As for the cars performance: My Legend is definitely quite a bit quicker than Türk's. Mine performs pretty much like this (not my video):

 

Is my tranny slipping? I'm in 5th gear at 2k rpm and 100 k/h. When I step on the gas, the revs climb quickly to 3k and stay there (Slipping and engaging) while the speed starts to catch up. If I release the gas, the revs come back to normal.

 

Hey.

I believe it is okay. When "cruising" lock-up is activated for fuel economy.
More throttle deactivates it for better response.