transmission fluid change: how often?
#1
transmission fluid change: how often?
I have a 2006 RL. How often should I change the tranny fluid? The owner's manual is strange: "if you drive above 110 degrees and/or below -10 degress, then change at 60K miles" or similar.
well how bout "normal driving conditions"? my car has 57K mi on it. thx.
well how bout "normal driving conditions"? my car has 57K mi on it. thx.
#2
If you read the recommendations on the board, I seem to have picked up on the fact that a "flush" is not a good thing for Honda/Acura, to do a 3x3 method i.e. drain it three times, the objective being to get the old fluid out of the entire "system" and so on. My dealer offers two options: just a drain and fill (around 3 quarts) which is around $100, the 3x3 method seems to be around double that because you are using more fluids. Each to their own but I opted to have my local mechanic just drain and fill and the difference in shifting was amazing. I was having problems with downshifts (described in the forums here) from 5th to 4th, that problem is now gone and shifting is like butter. Probably in 10,000 miles, I will do it again or just once go to the dealer and have the 3x3 done followed by a quick drain and fill more often.
I bought the car used so don't know what was or wasn't done to it plus I got the A16 codes so the following are all done recently at 40K:
1. Rear differential fluid (the 6 in the A16) - $90 at the dealer (they originally wanted $139)
2. Front transfer case (or whatever it's called, might as well) - $90 at the dealer (same)
3. Transmission Fluid (simple drain and fill, I was having issues) - $60 at a local mechanic (always use Honda fluids I am told so being a good boy that I am, done)
4. Oil Change with a filter change (I change the filter with every oil change, the 1 in the A16)
5. Coolant, I'll probably do it at $50K or 60K when I change the hoses or if they need to be changed (dealer was really trying to sell me hard on this but I said no)
6. Power Steering Fluid (dealer really wanted me to do this but no, might do this at 60K unless someone tells me otherwise or I have problems)
Hope this helps.
I bought the car used so don't know what was or wasn't done to it plus I got the A16 codes so the following are all done recently at 40K:
1. Rear differential fluid (the 6 in the A16) - $90 at the dealer (they originally wanted $139)
2. Front transfer case (or whatever it's called, might as well) - $90 at the dealer (same)
3. Transmission Fluid (simple drain and fill, I was having issues) - $60 at a local mechanic (always use Honda fluids I am told so being a good boy that I am, done)
4. Oil Change with a filter change (I change the filter with every oil change, the 1 in the A16)
5. Coolant, I'll probably do it at $50K or 60K when I change the hoses or if they need to be changed (dealer was really trying to sell me hard on this but I said no)
6. Power Steering Fluid (dealer really wanted me to do this but no, might do this at 60K unless someone tells me otherwise or I have problems)
Hope this helps.
Last edited by home4sale2; 03-20-2011 at 01:52 PM.
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Karol (05-07-2014)
#6
Interesting. BobIsTheOilGuy.com boards were pretty critical of Z-1, saying it was not a top-quality fluid (on what basis, I'm not smart enough to know) though it was a perfect match for Hondas. Their first love at the time was Amsoil's universal formulation -- full synthetic.
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#8
Advanced
Ok, I had a post a few days ago about this same topic, I want to do what is best for my car not the dealers bottom line. My MID does not call for 3x plus 1 atf change (not flush) but I will do it myself if it will benefit my trans. Should I wait for the MID to tell me to do the change or do it now. What atf fluid is best for the RL AWD trans. Z1 Or the new DW1, thanks in advance I always rely on the expertise of all of the acuraZine members to help keep my RL at the top of its game.
Thanks,
Gordon
Thanks,
Gordon
#10
Recently had this done at the dealer, following parts were used.
Transfer case service:
94109-20000 qty. 2, washer drain
80W90 qty. 1 Gear lube
Differential service (Rear):
94109-20000 qty. 4, washer drain
08200-9001A qty. 4, Fluid ATF-Z1 (note Z1)
For my transmission service, not at the dealer, he used ATF-Z1 as well.
Hope this helps.
Transfer case service:
94109-20000 qty. 2, washer drain
80W90 qty. 1 Gear lube
Differential service (Rear):
94109-20000 qty. 4, washer drain
08200-9001A qty. 4, Fluid ATF-Z1 (note Z1)
For my transmission service, not at the dealer, he used ATF-Z1 as well.
Hope this helps.
#11
fluid changes
I just bought a 2005 RL that was on lease and apprently all services were done as needed. Since it had a major service at 90K how long can I honestly wait until I have to do all the major fluid changes again? Of course, I will do the oil and filter change every 5k as usual, but what about all the other fluids?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#13
Burning Brakes
I just bought a 2005 RL that was on lease and apprently all services were done as needed. Since it had a major service at 90K how long can I honestly wait until I have to do all the major fluid changes again? Of course, I will do the oil and filter change every 5k as usual, but what about all the other fluids?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#14
Transmission fluid should be changed every 15k. If this interval is followed, no need for a 3x drain and refill.
If a 3x drain and refill is done because of lack of maintenance, change fluid every 15k afterwards.
If a 3x drain and refill is done because of lack of maintenance, change fluid every 15k afterwards.
#16
Senior Moderator
I agree with dj. A 3x3 every 45k or 1 change every 15k will have the same result. This is the method I have chosen as it is a real pain in the ass to do a 3x3 the correct way.
1 change every 30-60 isn't enough. The transmission holds more than 5 qts IIRC. You can only drain a little under 3 qts at a time. A single drain and fill won't change half of your old fluid.
1 change every 30-60 isn't enough. The transmission holds more than 5 qts IIRC. You can only drain a little under 3 qts at a time. A single drain and fill won't change half of your old fluid.
#17
Pro
The reasoning behind the 3x3 flush is that you can't get the fluid out of the valve body or torque converter. What is remaining in there will be mixed with the new fluid, hence changing it 3 times will replace it all to be like new fluid.
I would go with the MID light as it is computer controlled to when the factory has set it to be changed.
Agreed, the shifting is better. I have about 60,000 on my last flush and my shifting isn't as crisp as it used to be.
Is there an on line repair manual that explains where the drain and fill plugs are?
I would go with the MID light as it is computer controlled to when the factory has set it to be changed.
Agreed, the shifting is better. I have about 60,000 on my last flush and my shifting isn't as crisp as it used to be.
Is there an on line repair manual that explains where the drain and fill plugs are?
#18
Senior Moderator
Drain plug is behind the splash guard about 6 inches off center to the driver's side and ~12 inches behind the bumper lip. It is on the passenger side of the transmission pan facing the passenger wheel.
Fill plug is underneath/behind the fuse box in the top-driver corner of the engine bay. Your best tools are a 12" wratchet extension and a long funnel.
It is theoretically impossible to empty every bit of old fluid out of the transmission. I've done the math before and will find the post later, but ultimately, there is no significant differece between the methods. When the car dies, it will contain some amount of the fluid it left the factory with.
Fill plug is underneath/behind the fuse box in the top-driver corner of the engine bay. Your best tools are a 12" wratchet extension and a long funnel.
It is theoretically impossible to empty every bit of old fluid out of the transmission. I've done the math before and will find the post later, but ultimately, there is no significant differece between the methods. When the car dies, it will contain some amount of the fluid it left the factory with.
#19
Burning Brakes
Drain plug is behind the splash guard about 6 inches off center to the driver's side and ~12 inches behind the bumper lip. It is on the passenger side of the transmission pan facing the passenger wheel.
Fill plug is underneath/behind the fuse box in the top-driver corner of the engine bay. Your best tools are a 12" wratchet extension and a long funnel.
.
Fill plug is underneath/behind the fuse box in the top-driver corner of the engine bay. Your best tools are a 12" wratchet extension and a long funnel.
.
The fill plug is almost directly under the fuse box from the top of the engine. If you are looking at it from the front of the car, it's more toward the front side of the fuse box, not behind it. It's a 17mm socket to open.
Am I missing something here?
#20
Senior Moderator
Both sound like thorough explanations to me.
I was trying to explain which way the plug/fluid comes out. Your wrench will be between the plug and the passenger wheel.
I was trying to explain which way the plug/fluid comes out. Your wrench will be between the plug and the passenger wheel.
#21
Senior Moderator
There are 6 different chambers in the tranny of the RL that hold almost 8 qt like BDogg mentioned. When you pull the drain plug, only ~3 qt come out like Matt said. By filling it back up and driving, you mix the 3 new with the 5 old and run it through all chambers by hitting each gear and the torque converter in 5th. Drain it again, and theoretically you will drain a little over 1 quart of the new and almost 2 quarts of the old. Fill it up, and you will be left with about 5 qts new, 3 qts old. Once more and you get 6.05 qts of new fluid and just under 2 quarts of old stuff. Obviously the more you do the more you get out, but you will never get it all out. Also, you are throwing away almost 3 qts of new stuff with a 3x3 and the portion only goes up with each step.
Assume you change 3x3 every 60k. You will have 6.05 qts of 60k old fluid and 1.95 qts of 120k old fluid when it comes time for your second change.
Assume you change 1 flush every 20k staring after 60k miles. At 120k miles, you will have 1.95 quarts of 120k fluid, 1.72 quarts of 60k fluid, 1.875 quarts of 40k fluid, and 3 quarts of 20k fluid. Keeping this up will never leave you with more than 20k miles on 3/8 of your tranny fluid.
Sure a 3x3 flush will feel and protect superior at the time of change, but more frequent changes will be more consistent.
#22
Burning Brakes
I see a 3/8" plug just inside the drivers side wheel. What plug are you referring to that is near or facing the passengers side wheel? Are you referring to the transfer case?
#23
Burning Brakes
I think there are two drain bolts on the tranny and the one I am talking about might not be the right one as it sits pretty high up. I'll have to look a bit more to find a plug more in the center as 007 suggests. I recently changed the transfer case fluid and never saw a tranny drain plug there, but wasn't looking very hard.
#24
Senior Moderator
The plug is not near the passenger wheel at all. It just faces the passenger side. Like I said in my description, it is about 6" towards the driver's side from the center of the car. It is on the passenger side of the transmission pan. The plug has a large magnet on the end that captures any metal shavings that go passing by.
#26
Burning Brakes
I think 007 is right, but I m confused as to what the plug on the other side is for. I'll post a pic later tonight. It's just above the arm on drivers side, peek your head under and you can see it
#27
Senior Moderator
Have you used it? Did transmission fluid come out? I wonder if it is a way to get out more fluid at once.
Heavy, I would take a pic, but the whole reason I don't do a 3x3 is b/c it is a pain in the ass to get to.
Heavy, I would take a pic, but the whole reason I don't do a 3x3 is b/c it is a pain in the ass to get to.
#30
Senior Moderator
Have you pulled it before? It definitely is not the primary drain plug for the tranny. The service manual procedure steps through removing the splash guard under the bumper.
#31
Burning Brakes
No, never touched it, seems too high to do much. I see the main one on the other side just above splashguard. Going to change the fluid tomorrow. Should be simple, fill bolt will be a touch of a challenge, but I have a long extension that I can get in there with a 1/2" breaker bar so hopefully comes right off. Fill bolt will be loosened before drain bolt just in case. Sorry for any confusion.
#32
Senior Moderator
No need for apologies. Ive had my fair share of confusions. If I didn't have the service manual, I would have never done it. The manual shows some distinct shapes/markings around the bolt, but they never give you a big picture perspective. Good luck.
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