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I have been noticing something lately and I am not sure of it's cause.
When i reduce speed, but not like down to 10 miles/hr no, but from 50 say to 20, and attempt to press gas again, its sometimes as if the trans didn't shift down enough, and the car makes that sound and feel of a manual when you keep it in 3rd or 4th gear after taking a turn instead of 2nd. Do you know what i mean?
It's not often, nor too serious, but I hadn't noticed this about the car before. Is it normal?
if the RPMs are rising like a manual revving to the high heavens...it could mean the tranny is slipping.
but was a little confused at your example...as 4th to third in a turn, would make the engine is lug, almost like it's about to stall.
Yeah no, not slipping. the stalling thingy. Meaning even if car slowed down, it'd try and keep going on 4th gear for ex.. i'd have to push the pedal a bit more, to get it to downshift.
Well, I'm changing the tranny oil soon, and the dealer gave me two options, one to empty the oil, and fill in another for like a hundred, and the other to empty the oil in some other piece, really sorry i have no idea what he said plus it was in stupid quebecer french... that would cost over 300..
Last time oil was changed was in 2014.. and on the stick it's pretty clear and light no dark...
Which should I opt for?
I still encounter a bit the issue in the OP, but I think its been misunderstood. You gotta imagine you're driving a manual, have the car on 4th gear, slow down take a 90 deg turn, and then try picking up speed while keeping the car in 4th gear... the tranny usually makes like a rattling sound of sorts, and painfully tries to pick up the speed..
I get that sometimes. But of course, i am barely pressing on the pedal. I have to press the pedal deeper to downshift, sometimes too much ...
Sounds like the dealer is trying to sell you on a rear differential fluid change in addition to the tranny fluid. The MID should remind you of the diff fluid change as part of a service group letter. I say go with the tranny fluid - its also easy to do yourself if you are so inclined.
As to your OP - it sounds like your tranny is reluctant to down shift to a lower gear. Shift solenoid malfunction? Does the car throw any codes?
Sounds like the dealer is trying to sell you on a rear differential fluid change in addition to the tranny fluid. The MID should remind you of the diff fluid change as part of a service group letter. I say go with the tranny fluid - its also easy to do yourself if you are so inclined.
As to your OP - it sounds like your tranny is reluctant to down shift to a lower gear. Shift solenoid malfunction? Does the car throw any codes?
Now that i think about it, i think you mean with a scanner not on dash? In that case, i'd have to check. But, mind you, if i press the gas further down, it does down shift.
Originally Posted by HDNBenjamin
just do a drain and fill yourself. very easy like an oil change. $25-40 max.
Someone who's an amateur car mechanic said to change the oil with those tubes and pump at the dealer coz of the metal residue and how that could affect the downshift...
So changing transmission oil and transfer case make the shifting better? Makes the car, once it slows down in drive, to make a smoother non-felt downshift so as once u press the gas again you pick up without feeling a difference?
That happens when other brands say to never change that tranny oil?
I'm totally confused by this, and do advise: CHANGE THE TRANNY OIL ON TIME. It makes a big difference in Honda brands apparently.
RL09: It's highly likely that your problem is easily corrected, and you'll probably get some important periodic maintenance done on your drive train in the bargain.....IF you listen to these guys and do a search here to fully educate yourself.
You never mentioned the miles on your car, but changing the fluids in the FOUR chambers of your drive train is probably needed.....especially for a car that has not had the oil changed in over 3 years!!! They all have a bit different drain and fill requirements and if you're not comfortable with doing it yourself (it really is easy with the right info like the service manual you can find on Acurazine) then have a good local mechanic do it....NOT the dealer.
And DO NOT hook up a hose and start pumping fluids into your ATF!! DO NOT!!
Can you elaborate why not at the dealer? Is it only cost wise?
What are the four chambers?
My understanding is when the cars tells you, you change that oil. The tranny one had come up. So I understood they change tranny oil and transfer case oil.
RL09: It's highly likely that your problem is easily corrected, and you'll probably get some important periodic maintenance done on your drive train in the bargain.....IF you listen to these guys and do a search here to fully educate yourself.
You never mentioned the miles on your car, but changing the fluids in the FOUR chambers of your drive train is probably needed.....especially for a car that has not had the oil changed in over 3 years!!! They all have a bit different drain and fill requirements and if you're not comfortable with doing it yourself (it really is easy with the right info like the service manual you can find on Acurazine) then have a good local mechanic do it....NOT the dealer.
And DO NOT hook up a hose and start pumping fluids into your ATF!! DO NOT!!
Good luck.
Dan, I'm re-reading your post, and re-read the thread, I don't know what you mean by listen to the guys. I honestly have no clue what you're talking about. Plz clarify your post.
Amir you're thanking the post, but leaving me in the dark?
You still haven't mentioned the mileage on your car. That would be helpful to know.
I also suggested that you do a search and learn about this subject. That's where you'd "learn from these guys." Most of them, like me, are "old school" maintenance types who do our fluid changes on a mileage schedule......sometimes in excess.....religiously.
As I read your post, three things jump out at me.....even though you are asking for help.
1. You know nothing about the car and its workings. There is a service manual available here on Acurazine that can help with that, even to the extent of literally showing pictures and directions for all the four chambers of fluids in your drive train. Trying it yourself now, without deeper knowledge will certainly lead to damaging your car.
2. You apparently are not familiar with working on cars, your car or others, yourself, and that's fine. Makes it difficult to show you a path for saving money and avoiding dealership service costs.
3. You are clearly comfortable with trusting the sensor system in the car, and the dealer's advice and costs. Several of us try to avoid that.
Your interest is laudable but getting you fully up-to-speed would be very time consuming through this approach. So as it stands, I think you're best served to stay with your current approach and avoid letting us confuse you more by asking us questions. If you would like to do some searching here on the site and then come back when our responses will resonate more with you, I'd be happy to respond then.
What on earth are blabbing about? And teh cl thanks it too
Dan, look, 1st, you got 130 posts in 8 years.... do you really come in here to help? And you insist on being cryptic, and offer the only solution to understanding you is going and reading stuff on the site. Everyone here knows I read a lot more than the average user on this site. You simply did not understand what's in this thread.
Where did I say I am doing this myself? I do not even change brake pads. I have no time nor equipped to do so.
About the dealer suggestions: all you had to say was: while the car gives you code instructions, its better to change tranny and transfer case and drive-train in shorter mileage intervals, and give those intervals, if you care to help.
I sincerely suggest you post when you are not drinking.
I have changed the tranny and transfer oil, as i said above, and the transmission is no longer doing that little minor and minute thing i had noticed it doing.
To conclude, my English may not be perfect, but Dan, boy are you weird.
I’m out and about and on my phone, so typing a long elaborate response is out of the question right now. A few things jump out at me when I read this from the top: Dan’s responses are about as specific as they can be considering the limited information given. The issue started last year and posts are sporadic.
Dan could probably explain things clearly since there is a lot of information being conveyed in the response. But ultimately your problems could be a lot of things. Always start with the simplest solution to any problem. Your car shifts rough, change the fluids. Simplest solution. As for what he’s saying, look up the transmission fluid flush vs drain and fill, and why a drain and fill is preferred.
With that being said, be mindful of your responses. You’re coming off as combative. Just be mindful of the language barrier, which you’ve acknowledged. Wouldn’t hurt to re-read posts and do some digging. I would open the search beyond Acurazine as a lot of concepts translate between cars.
I acknowledge my expression in English can be incomprehensible, but my reading comprehension is fine projectvrtx.
There isn't "a lot of information" conveyed in Dan's response, there's rather a lot of assumptions.
It wouldn't hurt you to read well his tone in both posts A.
That’s a two way street. You’re “assuming a lot” as well. Go back and read post 18 and count how many assumptions you made. He hits on higher level themes that you’ll read about in any transmission thread. I’d encourage you to step back and re-read the post. Evaluate them from an information conveyed point of view, not a personal attack point of view.
He was basically saying, "do research on the problem and do it yourself" and he provided the likely first, and simplest, step to take. But, that's a bit of a moot point because OP already had the dealer do the work...
... which comes to Dan's second point, "if you can't (or won't) do the research and do the work yourself, then just take it to the dealer and be done with it."
Which is what OP did.
It was actually very unbiased and non-combative responses.
He was basically saying, "do research on the problem and do it yourself" and he provided the likely first, and simplest, step to take. But, that's a bit of a moot point because OP already had the dealer do the work...
... which comes to Dan's second point, "if you can't (or won't) do the research and do the work yourself, then just take it to the dealer and be done with it."
Which is what OP did.
It was actually very unbiased and non-combative responses.
1. You know nothing about the car and its workings.
Reads like a giant FU to the OP.
And with regards to the maintenance minder- I’d trust the engineer that programmed it long before I’d give any creedence to some crabby old guy on the internet.....
1. You know nothing about the car and its workings.
Reads like a giant FU to the OP.
And with regards to the maintenance minder- I’d trust the engineer that programmed it long before I’d give any creedence to some crabby old guy on the internet.....
You realize he was just paraphrasing a post from DanL07RL for OP right?
You realize he was just paraphrasing a post from DanL07RL for OP right?
Wasn't my perception. OP came here for help. Was pretty clear the OP doesn't know, what he does not know. Dan lit him up like an xmas tree, in a condescending tone that you would expect from a fat guy leaning against a Porsche.
Yes we all know that just about every RL problem and operating system has been asked and addressed in this forum, if you have owned the car long enough. An RL isn't exactly an exclusive club anymore. These things are getting handed down to HS kids who are just beginning to learn about cars and all the trials and tribulations that come with them. Point being, cut the guy some slack.
The tone is perceived on the internet. A lot gets lost when typing. A keen awareness of that is needed. To RL09's credit, he has admitted a language barrier which may cloud tone perception. You have two users who didn't see condescention and 2 who did.
However you quoted the wrong guy. You decided you wanted to flame the user with a santa hat and an engine in his avatar. Not said Porsche owner. Hence my response.
OP came here for help. Was pretty clear the OP doesn't know, what he does not know.
My issue with OP is that he chose to respond to perceived condescending tone with even more condescension. RL09's response doesn't concede on any level that "he doesn't know what he doesn't know". Responding to an asshole by being a bigger asshole is not something I'm going to let fly.
Dan lit him up like an xmas tree, in a condescending tone that you would expect from a fat guy leaning against a Porsche.
Because all fat Porsche owners are condescending? Strange. I missed that memo. ( I always remember the old expression: Never assume. You just make an "ass" out of "u" and "me")
Yes we all know that just about every RL problem and operating system has been asked and addressed in this forum, if you have owned the car long enough. An RL isn't exactly an exclusive club anymore. These things are getting handed down to HS kids who are just beginning to learn about cars and all the trials and tribulations that come with them. Point being, cut the guy some slack.
Definitely agree on this point. That's why my warning stood for both people involved. I'm more than willing to cut people slack. Just don't come up in a thread acting all "Johnny D*ckhead". I'm all about cutting people slack and learning. Believe me, I was a young high school kid who didn't know much about anything when it came to actually getting my hands dirty. But an often neglected point in these discussions is that high school kids (and really anybody), has access to a way bigger pool of information than we ever did growing up. Everything is click away nowadays.
My old supervisor put it beautifully on my first day on the job: I don't expect you to know the answer to everything. What I expect is that you know where to look when you don't.
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Last edited by projektvertx; 02-04-2018 at 01:21 PM.
Honestly, I think that’s a fair price to pay for a transmission fluid change and front differential fluid change. I think book time on the front diff fluid alone is 0.9 hours. The going rate for most dealers on hourly labor is 110 in Detroit, very similar in Chicago. Considering the wash/interior clean could be valued at 10-20 dollars, you actually got a fairly decent deal! They essentially did the trans fluid change for free!
Wasn't my perception. OP came here for help. Was pretty clear the OP doesn't know, what he does not know. Dan lit him up like an xmas tree, in a condescending tone that you would expect from a fat guy leaning against a Porsche.
Yes we all know that just about every RL problem and operating system has been asked and addressed in this forum, if you have owned the car long enough. An RL isn't exactly an exclusive club anymore. These things are getting handed down to HS kids who are just beginning to learn about cars and all the trials and tribulations that come with them. Point being, cut the guy some slack.
There's a way to get your point across without insulting people.
1. You know nothing about the car and its workings.
Reads like a giant FU to the OP.
And with regards to the maintenance minder- I’d trust the engineer that programmed it long before I’d give any creedence to some crabby old guy on the internet.....
The OP described his car as not shifting down enough regarding a slushbox. Dan's sentiments are well founded on that alone.
If that is lost on you, then I'd make the same sentiments about yourself.
Originally Posted by projektvertx
Honestly, I think that’s a fair price to pay for a transmission fluid change and front differential fluid change. I think book time on the front diff fluid alone is 0.9 hours. The going rate for most dealers on hourly labor is 110 in Detroit, very similar in Chicago. Considering the wash/interior clean could be valued at 10-20 dollars, you actually got a fairly decent deal! They essentially did the trans fluid change for free!
I won't say he overpaid, but I could have done the whole service in 10 minutes.. and most of that time is just the fluid draining.
I won't say he overpaid, but I could have done the whole service in 10 minutes.. and most of that time is just the fluid draining.
Honestly, the biggest pain in the behind for diff service is getting the car level on jack stands in the garage at home. Really makes me wish I had easy access to a lift Otherwise, I agree, most of the time is just spend waiting for the fluid to drain.
Honestly, the biggest pain in the behind for diff service is getting the car level on jack stands in the garage at home. Really makes me wish I had easy access to a lift Otherwise, I agree, most of the time is just spend waiting for the fluid to drain.
I do feel stupid for not doing the rear differential too at the same time. I had asked the rep and he said: that the car will let us know when...
I depend on you guys to tell me: do them all at once!
09-26-2017, 04:49 AM
Otherwise, I agree, most of the time is just spend waiting for the fluid to drain.
Grab a set of jack stands and tools and get crackin' lol