cobra10363

All - I know there have been multiple threads on replacing brakes on a 2010 RL and even tutorials. However, I haven't found one where narrows down on several brands of Pads and Rotors..

My 10 RL has roughly 85k and I'm at approx. 20% left of pads.. I'm going to be in the market very soon in replacing the pads and perhaps the rotors.. My mechanic recommended I also replace the rotors. He said resurfacing could save money, but given that it's a heavy car and in I live in north Texas where the summer months it gets hot and there is a possibility they could warp due to thinness of the rotor and the heat.. He also recommended I also change the rear as well as with the RL being AWD, the brake wear should be the same across all four wheels.. Is that true or does the RL front brakes wear much faster than a none AWD car where you can get twice as much life from the rear brake pads than the front?

I've read in some forums that the RL brake pads are NOT Brembo; they are Advics. Do any of you all have any recommendations for good quality rotors.. There is one caveat, I prefer rotors with very minimal brake dust.. My assumption is the pads currently on the car are OEM (given the mileage) and there is hardly any brake dust which I really like and would like to continue that pattern.. I honestly don't like seeing the rims black with dust after a while..

So in a nutshell:
- Any aftermarket brake Pad and Rotor Brand recommendations with minimal to no brake dust?
- Can I spare resurfacing the rotors or make the plunge on new rotors?
- Do I also replace the rear brake pads (and rotors)?

Thanks in advance for the responses.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the threads you read where there are no narrowed down pads and rotors are because, every one of them stops the car.
it will be your choice which to pursue, as there are tons of brands that are possibly all made at the same factory.

pads are the culprits that dust! not the rotor!
you sure can resurface your old rotors, as long as they are in the required specs...
if the rear brake pads and rotors are worn out, yes replace them.

i love autozone's duralast cmax pads and rotors...
the rotors are blanks and the pads are ceramic which gives off a white dust, which wont coat your wheels

thoiboi

+2 on Duralast Gold/max.

projektvertx

iTrader: (2)

With aftermarket, I'm big on Centric coated rotors and Akebono pads. I'll admit brakes take a beating on cars that I drive and that combo holds up well. Akebono pads have been really low dust for me in the applications I've used it in. I used OE rotors on my RL with Akebono pads, low dust. Centric and Akebono on my Camry, also low dust.

I can however +3 on Duralast stuff, I've installed it on a more than few of my friends cars and they were pretty happy with them on daily driver duty.

Summary:
1: Akebono is low dust in my usage experience. Nothing wrong with Duralast in my experience.
2: Resurfacing the rotors should be good as long as they are in spec, just keep in mind it can hit or miss. Rears are replacement only I believe.
3: Did your mechanic tell you about how much was left on the pads? In my experience fronts wear quicker.

This thread also has some good info talking about brakes:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-t...ussion-949473/

H8PVMT

If you plan to order the pad/rotors I swear by rock auto.com their prices can not be beat.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ke+&+wheel+hub

drolds72

Just replaced my front pads with Akebono. Got 90k miles down to the squealer. Very low dust as mentioned above. I used AC Delco rotors. Personally, I never had luck resurfacing rotors-they always warped quicker. I also rebuilt my front calipers. It's just the square cut seal and the dust boot. $10 per side, but you will need some compressed air to get the pistons out one at a time, and some wood blocks to hold in the ones you don't want out...

beekermartin

I installed Akebono pads over 50k miles ago. There is still plenty of life left but the rotors are slightly warped now. That has nothing to do with the pads of course. When I replace the front rotors I will use Akebono pads again.

Very low dust, quiet and brake well. They are noisy after it rains but only for the first stop or so. Besides that they are very comparable to the typical OEM Honda brake pad. Why Acura/Honda charges so much for the OEM pads on this car I have no idea. I usually always use aftermarket rotors and Honda pads. I just did all the brakes on my 07 MDX that way. I refuse to pay almost $200 for OEM pads on the RL.

rlx015

I have been using Duralast Gold CMax last two times, and both sets somehow manage to pulsate my steering wheel as I am getting closer to replacement needed time... not sure why, if they did not break in pads and rotors... I never resurface, always replace part for part, but still pulsating has been an issue (only common was mechanic doing the job).

I am almost due for replacing front and back, so I will go with the $300 set from Rockauto . com (comes with pads front and back, and slotted drilled rotors front and back) - and will report how it is... I think some of the peeps here on the forum recommended those ... it is Something something stop z23 or something like that... here it is:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3959796&cc=1444548&jsn=377

adding another $100-120 for labor, $430 total job is pretty decent in my book, unless I am off base? what do you guys think?

H8PVMT

very curious as to how this set works, I was eyeballing it. Let us know how you like them.

alfadoctor

Someone was offering some time back front/back slotted-drilled rotors with StopTech pads as a replacement for the stock set up. I have never been so satisfied with brakes than I am with what I bought. The car stops NOW with no fade, minimal dust. I keep wondering why my other cars don't stop as well. I really stop fast and worry about the idiots behind me who tail gate and can't stop.

ojmcduffie

Cross drilled/ slotted rotors up front w ebc red pads. Dont care what anyone else has to say...noticed huge difference. Brake dust of ebc red pads are bad for first few weeks. Afterwards, easy cleaning. Alot less brake dust. I have pics if u want...

i went stoptech rotors btw...

truonghthe

Nah I would skipp the slotted/ drilled rotor and go just for blank Centric rotor. The slot will collect rust and pad material over time and its look terrible, I have slotted and drilled rotor on my TL-S since 2012 and there is no gain in braking performance.

chefmatt

iTrader: (1)

My .02 - I recently replaced oem rotors and pads with slotted/drilled front and back. Looked great! during break-in I noticed shimmy in steering wheel that was not there before. Checked my work, everything installed correctly. It wiving me nuts, this shimmy on braking from 30mph-0mph. I drove like this until new rotors arrived, replaced front with plain rotors, shimmy stopped immediately. Went back to plain oem-style in rear as well. Possibly the rotors were warped from factory, but also possible pulsing/shimmy was due to slotted surface. I can't remember ebay seller, too lazy to look sorry. In any case, they are all basically same...oh it was carid...hope this helps

alfadoctor

WHat did you do with the rotors? I had a slight pulse in the pedal until they got broke in. Worst case was to take them down to the machine shop and have them checked for trueness and turned a couple thousandths.