Power steering leak
07-20-2015, 04:47 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Power steering leak
Hi people, I check on my recall for my 2006 RL, power steering and found out it was replaced in 2011. That's 5 years it was replaced. Last year 2014 the service dept. and said it needed to be replaced. How does this car eat power steering pumps.. Do I have a case for a call to Acura USA. for another recall.
07-20-2015, 07:40 PM
#2
Senior Moderator
Where is it leaking? How much fluid are you losing?
07-24-2015, 10:21 AM
#4
Senior Moderator
Parts and labor are only warrantied for 1 year. In addition, I don't think the recall replaced the pump, just the lines. We haven't seen many power steering pumps fail here, but they will occasionally on any car.
If you feel the leak is significant enough to warrant replacement, re-built pumps are pretty cheap (Autozone, RockAuto, etc.), and replacing them is not rocket science. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, then an independent shop who is worth a darn won't have any problems.
If you feel the leak is significant enough to warrant replacement, re-built pumps are pretty cheap (Autozone, RockAuto, etc.), and replacing them is not rocket science. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, then an independent shop who is worth a darn won't have any problems.
07-27-2015, 06:57 AM
#5
Mine (2007) has been leaking a bit since I bought it a year ago. When I had everything apart to replace the timing belt, I took a look but couldn't determine exactly where it is leaking; the fluid seems to be on / around the pulley. At this point, I'm just keeping an eye on it. I'll eventually replace with a re-built.
08-04-2015, 11:49 AM
#7
I just got quoted $504 to just replace the seals on the existing power steering pump. This is the first thing that i guess you could say "broke" on my 2008 RL with 60K miles on it. I had him top it off and will keep my eye on it, saw some by the pulley but must be a slow leak. $504 for a rebuild of the seals????
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08-04-2015, 11:55 AM
#8
Senior Moderator
Not sure where exactly the seals are relative to the pump or filter, but an entire pump can be had for less than $300 at Autozone.
Power Steering Pump at AutoZone.com - Best Power Steering Pump Parts for Cars, Trucks & SUVS
Power Steering Pump at AutoZone.com - Best Power Steering Pump Parts for Cars, Trucks & SUVS
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08-04-2015, 11:59 AM
#11
Figured I'd make a separate thread since it may be garage worthy since I'm sure I'm not the only 3G'er running into this problem at a measly 76K on the clock. 
Scale of difficulty: 1 EASY 10 HARD, I'd say a 3.
Time: About 2 hours if you take your sweet time.
Recently had a leak that trickled down on my oil pan. Traced it back to my power steering pump (hopefully). The fluid had the same consistency and color as the PS fluid so I figured it was time to dig deeper.
Preordered ALL the seals for the power steering pump thanks to 94EG!'s recommendation and cost me about $8 at the local Acura dealership.
In the first image above, I ordered
13 91345-RDA-A01 O-RING (13.0X1.9) $0.67 $0.50 1
Add to Cart
14 91347-PAA-A01 O-RING (16.7X1.8) $0.75 $0.56 1 Add to Cart
15 91347-P2A-003 O-RING (15.2X2.4) $0.50 $0.38 1 Add to Cart
16 91348-P2A-003 O-RING (51.0X2.4) $1.03 $0.77 1 Add to Cart
17 91349-P2A-003 SEAL, POWER STEERING PUMP COVER $7.25 $5.44 1
In the second one, I ordered
23 91370-SV4-000 O-RING (14.4X1.9) $0.78 $0.58
and here they are in person...
OK, so I'll just write it out because it's pretty easy.
1. Remove the plug to the little black sensor thing that's held on by 2 5MM allens bolts (you'll see, even though I'm not sure what it is, engine idle sensor?)
2. Remove 2 5MM bolts and remove said sensor to keep it out of the way (the one bolted to the intake manifold)
3. Take 2 sandwich bags and twisties or tie wraps and unclamp and remove the front hose from the PS pump, careful not to spill on the accessory belt. Put a towel or paper towels down to catch the excess. I used a straw and sucked out and some from the pump so I wouldn't make a mess...spit it into a can of peas :wink: Now undo the 2 10MM bolts for the vacuum line of the ps pump up top...same deal...put a baggie over it and move it out of the way.
4. Now, use a 14MM socket and ratchet with a breaker bar to push back on the belt tensioner and move the belt off the ps pump pulley. Just move it off to the side, don't remove the belt entirely from the car.
5. There are 2 12MM bolts that hold the PS pump in place...get the rear one first...use a wrench, once you break it free it comes out by hand easily. The other one is trickier...pull the pump up a bit and you can fit a normal sized 6 point 12MM socket and ratchet in there with the breaker bar. When it breaks, careful with your thumb on the pulley
Mine hurts now. One it brakes you can wiggle the PS pump up and down to give you more clearance and also to put pressure on the bolt so the ratchet catches and keeps unscrewing.
6. At this point, the pump is free and your engine looks like this.
7. Now, remove the 4 12MM bolts that hold on the PS housing on the pump. Once you do, you will see pretty much ALL the o rings you'll be changing.
OK...so I used a pick and changed out the o-rings (I used the above diagram to confirm I put the right ring in the right place. Number 15, 16 and 17 were SUPER rigid and dry and we all know that means LEAKS!
Here's a good comparison (hard to show) of the brittle rings and how flat they were compared to the new. Also, remember to put some PS fluid on the new ones when installing.
8. Next one I did was UNDER...it's a 10MM allen wrench bolt and it was a beast to undo. Breaker bar and all my strength but I got it. This ring wasn't too bad, but I wanted ALL NEW ones in there.
9. Put it all back together. To ensure it would seat right, I actually laid all the o rings out and put the cover on the ground and placed the pump down on it, then bolted up. The inlet ring #13, I had done before, but whatever...new one...plus, Was able to tighten that 10MM bolt much easier with the pump off now.
10. #23 is actually the o-ring from the hose that you moved out of the way (with the 10MM bolts).
I then used some Gorilla tape to tape up the orifices and used some degreaser and a wire brush to clean her up.
And here is the battlefield after the fact...
And we're done...
2 hours included time for a coffee and taking my time cleaning everything up. GOOD LUCK!
Hope this helps someone with a mystery leak.
I can't confirm yet if this fixed my mystery fluid on the oil pan...but once the old stuff burns off, I'll know...plus, at least this way I KNOW my PS pump is back to original state and is NOT the source of any leaks.
-Jeremy.
Scale of difficulty: 1 EASY 10 HARD, I'd say a 3.
Time: About 2 hours if you take your sweet time.
Recently had a leak that trickled down on my oil pan. Traced it back to my power steering pump (hopefully). The fluid had the same consistency and color as the PS fluid so I figured it was time to dig deeper.
Preordered ALL the seals for the power steering pump thanks to 94EG!'s recommendation and cost me about $8 at the local Acura dealership.
In the first image above, I ordered
13 91345-RDA-A01 O-RING (13.0X1.9) $0.67 $0.50 1
Add to Cart 14 91347-PAA-A01 O-RING (16.7X1.8) $0.75 $0.56 1
Add to Cart 15 91347-P2A-003 O-RING (15.2X2.4) $0.50 $0.38 1
Add to Cart 16 91348-P2A-003 O-RING (51.0X2.4) $1.03 $0.77 1
Add to Cart 17 91349-P2A-003 SEAL, POWER STEERING PUMP COVER $7.25 $5.44 1
In the second one, I ordered
23 91370-SV4-000 O-RING (14.4X1.9) $0.78 $0.58
and here they are in person...
OK, so I'll just write it out because it's pretty easy.
1. Remove the plug to the little black sensor thing that's held on by 2 5MM allens bolts (you'll see, even though I'm not sure what it is, engine idle sensor?)
2. Remove 2 5MM bolts and remove said sensor to keep it out of the way (the one bolted to the intake manifold)
3. Take 2 sandwich bags and twisties or tie wraps and unclamp and remove the front hose from the PS pump, careful not to spill on the accessory belt. Put a towel or paper towels down to catch the excess. I used a straw and sucked out and some from the pump so I wouldn't make a mess...spit it into a can of peas :wink: Now undo the 2 10MM bolts for the vacuum line of the ps pump up top...same deal...put a baggie over it and move it out of the way.
4. Now, use a 14MM socket and ratchet with a breaker bar to push back on the belt tensioner and move the belt off the ps pump pulley. Just move it off to the side, don't remove the belt entirely from the car.
5. There are 2 12MM bolts that hold the PS pump in place...get the rear one first...use a wrench, once you break it free it comes out by hand easily. The other one is trickier...pull the pump up a bit and you can fit a normal sized 6 point 12MM socket and ratchet in there with the breaker bar. When it breaks, careful with your thumb on the pulley
Mine hurts now. One it brakes you can wiggle the PS pump up and down to give you more clearance and also to put pressure on the bolt so the ratchet catches and keeps unscrewing. 6. At this point, the pump is free and your engine looks like this.
7. Now, remove the 4 12MM bolts that hold on the PS housing on the pump. Once you do, you will see pretty much ALL the o rings you'll be changing.
OK...so I used a pick and changed out the o-rings (I used the above diagram to confirm I put the right ring in the right place. Number 15, 16 and 17 were SUPER rigid and dry and we all know that means LEAKS!
Here's a good comparison (hard to show) of the brittle rings and how flat they were compared to the new. Also, remember to put some PS fluid on the new ones when installing.
8. Next one I did was UNDER...it's a 10MM allen wrench bolt and it was a beast to undo. Breaker bar and all my strength but I got it. This ring wasn't too bad, but I wanted ALL NEW ones in there.
9. Put it all back together. To ensure it would seat right, I actually laid all the o rings out and put the cover on the ground and placed the pump down on it, then bolted up. The inlet ring #13, I had done before, but whatever...new one...plus, Was able to tighten that 10MM bolt much easier with the pump off now.
10. #23 is actually the o-ring from the hose that you moved out of the way (with the 10MM bolts).
I then used some Gorilla tape to tape up the orifices and used some degreaser and a wire brush to clean her up.
And here is the battlefield after the fact...
And we're done...
2 hours included time for a coffee and taking my time cleaning everything up. GOOD LUCK!
Hope this helps someone with a mystery leak.
I can't confirm yet if this fixed my mystery fluid on the oil pan...but once the old stuff burns off, I'll know...plus, at least this way I KNOW my PS pump is back to original state and is NOT the source of any leaks.
-Jeremy.
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