ceereeooo

A couple of weeks back, some lady bumped into my car, causing the alarm to go off. Next day, the battery was completely dead, it was a one month old battery. I have been trying to figure out what is killing my battery, but still no luck. Did some tests with a multimeter and something is drawing 1amp power when the car is off. I do have a VIPER two way remote start/alarm system installed, but it is fully functional even after pulling the fuse. I even disconnected the brain of the VIPER system, but the draw is still there. I also disconnected the HFL, not that it ever worked ever since I purchased the car used 5 years ago.

After pulling some fuses, found out that fuse #20 is the culprit, the draw dropped to 4 milliamp right after I pull it. The fuse box indicates that it is for Option, which doesn't really tell me much. I know that it has controls the power seats and TPMS, as those don't work after I pull the fuse. Not sure what to do at this point, anyone knows what other things are connected to fuse #20?

ceereeooo

Forgot to mention that my car is a 2008 RL base. I only removed the brain for the alarm, but left the datalink and sensors in tack, would those be drawing a charge?

projektvertx

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, I'd take a peak at the service manual, the circuit diagram for the fuse might help tell you what it feeds.

thoiboi

Where did she bump into you? It's quite possible that the hit could have shorted some otherwise disjointed circuits that would then lead to a parasitic draw of sorts, it's hard to say without more information.

ceereeooo

She bumped into my side mirror with her person, no damages as far as I can tell, but bumped it hard enough to trigger the alarm.

thoiboi

Driver's side or passenger?

ceereeooo

That would be the passenger side. The LED of the mirror was broken when I purchased it 5 years ago, so that shouldn't make things worse?

Also, it is the fuse box under the hood.

ceereeooo

With the help from the mobile installation tech at Best Buy, I finally located the culprit. It turns out that the factory amplifier is what draining the battery. The tech pulled additionally fuses from inside the driver area, where the radio fuse and lumber control fuse seem to have drainage even when the car was off (thought I tested them with my multi meter, guess I didn't do it right....). Googled some more on it and thought it was gonna be the ANC, so went to the trunk to investigate. As soon as I put my hand on the amp, it was warm, and the car hasn't been driven in a few days by then. Unplugged the amp and the drainage disappeared completely. I think my next step is to purchase a used amp. Do you guys know if there is anything that would cause the amp to stay on even after the vehicle has been turned off?

ceereeooo

Argh, it is not the amp. Bought a use amp online and still have a draw, luckily it was not too expensive. I guess maybe it is the radio. Anyone knows?