outside temperature sensor stuck/malfunctioning
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
outside temperature sensor stuck/malfunctioning
I noticed this morning that my outside temperature is stuck at 76 degrees and it's in the upper eighties today.
I knew buying a car with high mileage and electronics things will go wrong.
Do I take this to the dealer?
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Mike
I knew buying a car with high mileage and electronics things will go wrong.
Do I take this to the dealer?
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Mike
#2
Are you sure it is stuck.
The RL has a convoluted formula to update the outside temp. If it is reading low when you start the car, it will only go up 1 degree every 60 seconds that you are driving over 19mph. It will go down faster - canot remember the formula for that.
I believe they overcomplicated this to try to account for hot exhaust from car in front of sensor (which is in the front bumper). Sometimes I will get in my car and the reading is 15 degrees low, so it takes at least 15 minutes of driving to read true temp and that's if I don't have to stop for stop signs/lights
The RL has a convoluted formula to update the outside temp. If it is reading low when you start the car, it will only go up 1 degree every 60 seconds that you are driving over 19mph. It will go down faster - canot remember the formula for that.
I believe they overcomplicated this to try to account for hot exhaust from car in front of sensor (which is in the front bumper). Sometimes I will get in my car and the reading is 15 degrees low, so it takes at least 15 minutes of driving to read true temp and that's if I don't have to stop for stop signs/lights
#3
Senior Moderator
Agreed that it is a slow process.
#4
Interesting. Didnt know about the slow process either. I too have bought a 100k rl (2005) and wondered what is wrong with the tempmgauge...if u want to replace i think the sensor is in the front lower bumper somewhere....i notcied it on the bumper removal guide...i have to do a ballast replacement soon.
The sensor in my mountianeer went out and it was in a simialer spot, and easy to unplug and repace..
The sensor in my mountianeer went out and it was in a simialer spot, and easy to unplug and repace..
#5
I think this is one of the things over engineered on the car, and one of the few (perhaps only) things I would complain about. I am constantly adjusting the auto temp. I know it is tied into gps heading so it knows if you are headed into or away from sun, etc. I believe it also factors in the outside temp. I live in one of the few places, where on a 30 to 40 mile drive, the outside temp can vary 40 degrees. When I leave work in the summer, the outside temp can be 90 while in the middle of my commute on the San Mateo bridge which goes over the bay, the temp can be 60 degrees. My entire go home commute is basically westbound against the sun. When leaving the office, I have temp set to 73 or 74 and the hot car cools down fairly quickly. However, while I'm on the bridge, I have to adjust the temp down to 70 or it blows hot air even though temp in the car has not changed. I'm assuming this is because of the low outside temp, because I'm getting blasted in the face with sun. Then once on the other side, the outside temp reading lags behind actual outside temp because once off the bridge, the actual outside temp raises quickly to 75 to 80. In the 15 minutes I drive after exiting bridge, the temp never makes it back up to actual outside temp.
Every other car I've owned with auto temp controls, I never had to adjust the temp all year long.
There, I've got it off my chest again, as I probably wrote the same thing several years ago.
But, I still love my RL!
Every other car I've owned with auto temp controls, I never had to adjust the temp all year long.
There, I've got it off my chest again, as I probably wrote the same thing several years ago.
But, I still love my RL!
#6
Senior Moderator
I thought about mentioning that post, but didn't remember all the details. The A/C as a whole is my only significant complaint.
That, and I got in my car after work today to find a bubble in the arm rest. My conclusion is that with time all arm rests will do it as I thought I could take enough care to avoid it.
That, and I got in my car after work today to find a bubble in the arm rest. My conclusion is that with time all arm rests will do it as I thought I could take enough care to avoid it.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
it seems to be working "normally" again.
I've had the vehicle about a month but the outside temp was definitely working differently today as usually it might be off a few degrees when i first start the car...
but today it was about 15 degrees below for whatever reason and then didn't move at all when on a short errand.
It seems to have resolved itself one way or another
thanks
mike
I've had the vehicle about a month but the outside temp was definitely working differently today as usually it might be off a few degrees when i first start the car...
but today it was about 15 degrees below for whatever reason and then didn't move at all when on a short errand.
It seems to have resolved itself one way or another
thanks
mike
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#8
Senior Moderator
Don't think too much into it.
If you drove it for an hour in a constant temp and it didn't move, then you might have a real concern.
If you drove it for an hour in a constant temp and it didn't move, then you might have a real concern.
#9
Instructor
Or if it was the same value every day no matter when you started it and no matter how long you drove it. That to me might indicate a failure. Can't really see why a temp sensor would ever fail though, they're pretty simple sensors. Cut wires maybe, but that's about it.
#10
it seems to be working "normally" again.
I've had the vehicle about a month but the outside temp was definitely working differently today as usually it might be off a few degrees when i first start the car...
but today it was about 15 degrees below for whatever reason and then didn't move at all when on a short errand.
It seems to have resolved itself one way or another
thanks
mike
I've had the vehicle about a month but the outside temp was definitely working differently today as usually it might be off a few degrees when i first start the car...
but today it was about 15 degrees below for whatever reason and then didn't move at all when on a short errand.
It seems to have resolved itself one way or another
thanks
mike
#11
Instructor
I swear it seems the Acura engineers put more thought into the freaking temp sensor system than much of the audio use cases. Not pausing the CD when you get a hands free call is idiotic, and really irritates me when I'm listening to an audiobook. Although I guess in the end the temp sensor is perhaps somewhat more important. Still seems over-engineered slightly.
#12
Senior Moderator
Agreed on the CD. Also, if I could get the heater to blow on my hands without having to push 5 buttons (besides the temp selector) I would approve.
OP, the other day, it was ~95 in the evening when we went to get into my wife's CR-V. For whatever reason, it read 103 and took ~20 minutes to get to an accurate temperature. It's not the best system in the world, but it works for the most part.
OP, the other day, it was ~95 in the evening when we went to get into my wife's CR-V. For whatever reason, it read 103 and took ~20 minutes to get to an accurate temperature. It's not the best system in the world, but it works for the most part.
#13
"OP, the other day, it was ~95 in the evening when we went to get into my wife's CR-V. For whatever reason, it read 103 and took ~20 minutes to get to an accurate temperature. It's not the best system in the world, but it works for the most part."
Well, I disagree with "works for the most part". I know this is somewhat of a trivial issue, but I just don't understand the logic. Yesterday, when I ran an errand at 3PM, the actual outside temp was 95. Temp gauge said 71. It took 25 minutes to read correct temp and that was only because I was driving mostly freeway. If stop and go, it would have taken longer. The door metal was very hot to the touch when I got in the car. Within less than 5 minutes, it was cooled down.
Why they put in such a delay in their sensor logic is baffling
Well, I disagree with "works for the most part". I know this is somewhat of a trivial issue, but I just don't understand the logic. Yesterday, when I ran an errand at 3PM, the actual outside temp was 95. Temp gauge said 71. It took 25 minutes to read correct temp and that was only because I was driving mostly freeway. If stop and go, it would have taken longer. The door metal was very hot to the touch when I got in the car. Within less than 5 minutes, it was cooled down.
Why they put in such a delay in their sensor logic is baffling
#14
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
eh hem...
Tim Oem Acura Parts
CAR CARE TIP: The A/C, the solar blocking glass, and the heater do such a good job keeping the temperature of the passenger’s compartment at a comfortable level that it’s easy to lose track of just how hot or cold it really is outside. An outside temperature indicator in the gauge assembly gives you a reality check.
But keep in mind, this indicator isn’t a laboratory-grade thermometer, and it might not show the same temperature as you’d see on signs or buildings with outside temp displays. The outside air temperature sensor is mounted behind the middle of the front bumper. The gauge control module uses measurements from that sensor to display the outside air temperature. Because of where the sensor is mounted, it may be affected by heat coming off the road, the engine, the radiator, or even the exhaust pipes from other vehicles. To minimize bogus readings, the gauge control module follows a certain logic.
Here’s how that logic works:
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II). . .
• If the engine coolant temperature is 139°F or lower, the indicator shows the current outside air temperature.
• If the engine coolant temperature is 140°F or higher, the indicator shows the temperature that was stored in memory when you turned the ignition switch to LOCK (0), no matter what the sensor behind the bumper currently measures.
The indicator doesn’t refresh until certain criteria are met:
• If the measured outside air temperature is more than the indicated temperature, the indicated temperature rises 1°F every minute once the vehicle reaches and maintains a speed of 19 mph or faster for at least 30 seconds. As long as the vehicle speed doesn’t drop below that, the indicator refreshes every 60 seconds until the two temperatures match. If the vehicle speed drops below 19 mph, the
indicator doesn’t start to refresh again until the vehicle speed climbs to 19 mph or faster for more than 90 seconds.
• If the measured outside air temperature is less than the indicated temperature, the indicated temperature drops 1°F every 2 seconds until the two temperatures match, no matter what the vehicle speed is.
So here’s the bottom line: The outside temperature indicator seldom delivers readings in real time because of the many heat sources that could throw off that indication. (Acura ServiceNews, March 2007)
CAR CARE TIP: The A/C, the solar blocking glass, and the heater do such a good job keeping the temperature of the passenger’s compartment at a comfortable level that it’s easy to lose track of just how hot or cold it really is outside. An outside temperature indicator in the gauge assembly gives you a reality check.
But keep in mind, this indicator isn’t a laboratory-grade thermometer, and it might not show the same temperature as you’d see on signs or buildings with outside temp displays. The outside air temperature sensor is mounted behind the middle of the front bumper. The gauge control module uses measurements from that sensor to display the outside air temperature. Because of where the sensor is mounted, it may be affected by heat coming off the road, the engine, the radiator, or even the exhaust pipes from other vehicles. To minimize bogus readings, the gauge control module follows a certain logic.
Here’s how that logic works:
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II). . .
• If the engine coolant temperature is 139°F or lower, the indicator shows the current outside air temperature.
• If the engine coolant temperature is 140°F or higher, the indicator shows the temperature that was stored in memory when you turned the ignition switch to LOCK (0), no matter what the sensor behind the bumper currently measures.
The indicator doesn’t refresh until certain criteria are met:
• If the measured outside air temperature is more than the indicated temperature, the indicated temperature rises 1°F every minute once the vehicle reaches and maintains a speed of 19 mph or faster for at least 30 seconds. As long as the vehicle speed doesn’t drop below that, the indicator refreshes every 60 seconds until the two temperatures match. If the vehicle speed drops below 19 mph, the
indicator doesn’t start to refresh again until the vehicle speed climbs to 19 mph or faster for more than 90 seconds.
• If the measured outside air temperature is less than the indicated temperature, the indicated temperature drops 1°F every 2 seconds until the two temperatures match, no matter what the vehicle speed is.
So here’s the bottom line: The outside temperature indicator seldom delivers readings in real time because of the many heat sources that could throw off that indication. (Acura ServiceNews, March 2007)
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oo7spy (08-14-2012)
#15
"To minimize bogus readings, the gauge control module follows a certain logic. "
But, exactly the opposite happens in reality. It showed a bogus reading for 25 minutes.
I would bet the sensor had an accurate reading in 5 minutes.
They just outsmarted themselves. And, I believe the HVAC takes into account the outside temp reading as I had to put temp control at 68 (way below my normal setting) until outside temp was closer to reality
But, exactly the opposite happens in reality. It showed a bogus reading for 25 minutes.
I would bet the sensor had an accurate reading in 5 minutes.
They just outsmarted themselves. And, I believe the HVAC takes into account the outside temp reading as I had to put temp control at 68 (way below my normal setting) until outside temp was closer to reality
#16
Senior Moderator
Um, it took 25 min to go from 71 to 95? Reread it again. Something about "the indicated temperature RISES 1 degree every 60 seconds" screams to me that the system did exactly what it said.
Although, I strongly disagree with it dropping every 2 seconds. In the Winter when it says 60 in my garage, it takes a solid 5-10 minutes to get down into the 30s on the highway. Maybe it should have read every 20 seconds? That would make complete sense with what really happens.
Although, I strongly disagree with it dropping every 2 seconds. In the Winter when it says 60 in my garage, it takes a solid 5-10 minutes to get down into the 30s on the highway. Maybe it should have read every 20 seconds? That would make complete sense with what really happens.
Last edited by oo7spy; 08-14-2012 at 11:02 PM.
#17
"Um, it took 25 min to go from 71 to 95? Reread it again. Something about "the indicated temperature RISES 1 degree every 60 seconds" screams to me that the system did exactly what it said"
I understand it worked as designed, but that is exactly my gripe! Why put that logic in?
The fact is the temp reading was wrong for 25 minutes by design!
I understand it worked as designed, but that is exactly my gripe! Why put that logic in?
The fact is the temp reading was wrong for 25 minutes by design!
#18
Senior Moderator
The explanation also implies why the rising temperature happens much slower than the dropping. The sensor is located very close to multiple outside factors that are much hotter than the ambient temperature. If you are at a stop light, between two trucks, and behind another all with their exhaust blowing hot air onto your bumper, do you think it is reasonable that you indicator rises 20 degrees before you leave the intersection?
The imposed delay helps to eliminate outside heat factors and leaves only the most consistent readings to be indicated.
The imposed delay helps to eliminate outside heat factors and leaves only the most consistent readings to be indicated.
#19
The explanation also implies why the rising temperature happens much slower than the dropping. The sensor is located very close to multiple outside factors that are much hotter than the ambient temperature. If you are at a stop light, between two trucks, and behind another all with their exhaust blowing hot air onto your bumper, do you think it is reasonable that you indicator rises 20 degrees before you leave the intersection?
The imposed delay helps to eliminate outside heat factors and leaves only the most consistent readings to be indicated.
The imposed delay helps to eliminate outside heat factors and leaves only the most consistent readings to be indicated.
However, as designed, I often leave my office at lunch and drive on surface streets thus rarely exceeding the 19mph for many minutes at a time. Thus, the temp can be off by 15 to 20 degrees the entire trip to/from lunch. I already described the situation where it was off for 25 minutes in freeway driving.
As designed, it is wrong more often than right in the summer where I live.
I doubt if the as designed mode eliminates more problems than it creates.
#20
Senior Moderator
Is your garage air conditioned? Very rarely does mine start that far off of actual temp. In any case, I think there is a solution for you.
#21
ha ha
No, not AC in garage. We are in SF area - we don't even have AC in the House!
On many summer days, there is a 40 degree differential within a 40 mile radius in the SF Bay area and this week it has been like that almost every day. For example, on Monday, where I live high got to 80, my office got to 95, and just a few miles further east, it was 104. SF was mid 60s.
When I left for work in the morning, temp was 66. Got to work and temp was 68.
When I left for lunch, actual outside temp was above 80, but temp sensor stayed at 68 because engine had not cooled down to meet criteria as stated. That was the same day, I had to go drop something off mid afternoon and had the 25 minute wrong temp. Got in car, temp read 71, yet actual outside temp had climbed to 95.
I don't mean to make a big deal about this except it does affect the AC controls in the car. As I previously stated, I had to set temp to 68 because it was extremely hot in car from sitting in sun, but normal setting of 73 would not cause fan to go above about mid setting.
To make matters worse, by the time car reading had made it to 95, I'm now heading home and temp outside is dropping. In about 20 minutes, I'm in the middle of the San Mateo bridge. Real outside temp is below 70, and the car temp reading is lagging at mid 70s. Soon, I'm off bridge, and outside temp is close to 80, and now car temp reading is lagging at 71 or so. I get home in 15 minutes and car reading has not climbed to new outside temp of 80. So in a drive of about an hour, the temp reading may have been accurate for 5 minutes at best.
No, not AC in garage. We are in SF area - we don't even have AC in the House!
On many summer days, there is a 40 degree differential within a 40 mile radius in the SF Bay area and this week it has been like that almost every day. For example, on Monday, where I live high got to 80, my office got to 95, and just a few miles further east, it was 104. SF was mid 60s.
When I left for work in the morning, temp was 66. Got to work and temp was 68.
When I left for lunch, actual outside temp was above 80, but temp sensor stayed at 68 because engine had not cooled down to meet criteria as stated. That was the same day, I had to go drop something off mid afternoon and had the 25 minute wrong temp. Got in car, temp read 71, yet actual outside temp had climbed to 95.
I don't mean to make a big deal about this except it does affect the AC controls in the car. As I previously stated, I had to set temp to 68 because it was extremely hot in car from sitting in sun, but normal setting of 73 would not cause fan to go above about mid setting.
To make matters worse, by the time car reading had made it to 95, I'm now heading home and temp outside is dropping. In about 20 minutes, I'm in the middle of the San Mateo bridge. Real outside temp is below 70, and the car temp reading is lagging at mid 70s. Soon, I'm off bridge, and outside temp is close to 80, and now car temp reading is lagging at 71 or so. I get home in 15 minutes and car reading has not climbed to new outside temp of 80. So in a drive of about an hour, the temp reading may have been accurate for 5 minutes at best.
#22
Senior Moderator
Sounds like you need to live somewhere else if you want to thoroughly enjoy your RL.
#23
Its just one of those things they over thought and could have made it a lot simpler and it would work just fine.
Where else can I live that I can drive (my RL) to the ocean beach in 1/2 hour, wine country in 1 hour, SF City in 1/2 hour, Lake Tahoe in 3.5 hours.
or drive 40 miles and pick a spot with any temperature from 60 to 100
#24
Chapter Leader (Chicago)
My outside temp says --- ... Lol. I think I need to just unplug the battery to let it reset but it dont bother me that much.
Should I even bother with it? What you all think lol
Should I even bother with it? What you all think lol
#25
Sorry to revive an old thread, but my Outside Temp reads '---', too.
I just had some right front fender damage fixed which required they replace the fender. I didn't think they had to remove the bumper, just replace a trim piece. As I drove home, I noticed this. It was a 30 minute drive, if that matters.
If it is something I can crawl under the car and reconnect, I'd rather do that than the hassle of taking it back to the body shop.
Any ideas?
I just had some right front fender damage fixed which required they replace the fender. I didn't think they had to remove the bumper, just replace a trim piece. As I drove home, I noticed this. It was a 30 minute drive, if that matters.
If it is something I can crawl under the car and reconnect, I'd rather do that than the hassle of taking it back to the body shop.
Any ideas?
#26
Sorry to revive an old thread, but my Outside Temp reads '---', too.
I just had some right front fender damage fixed which required they replace the fender. I didn't think they had to remove the bumper, just replace a trim piece. As I drove home, I noticed this. It was a 30 minute drive, if that matters.
If it is something I can crawl under the car and reconnect, I'd rather do that than the hassle of taking it back to the body shop.
Any ideas?
I just had some right front fender damage fixed which required they replace the fender. I didn't think they had to remove the bumper, just replace a trim piece. As I drove home, I noticed this. It was a 30 minute drive, if that matters.
If it is something I can crawl under the car and reconnect, I'd rather do that than the hassle of taking it back to the body shop.
Any ideas?
oops - sorry thought you were the author of the climate control problem thread. my bad
#30
Senior Moderator
Which part number is it in the diagram?
#31
Racer
33 I think, sensor and thing that holds it.
If i remember right it was sideways behind the bumper, had to disconnect it when i was taking bumper of because fog light repair.
If i remember right it was sideways behind the bumper, had to disconnect it when i was taking bumper of because fog light repair.
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oo7spy (03-01-2013)
#32
Senior Moderator
I remember disconnecting that.
#35
Some of the Ideas are stupid on here. The outside temp in my car was 67f but it is in the 90s. I had my oil changed at jiffy lube and asked him to reset the Maint Light. So somehow he probably screwed with the temp +3 or -3 calibration and its been stuck at 67f. So i drove on the freeway for 20 miles and my temp went up to mid 80s like 84 now. I think its in the high 80s right now. So driving over 19 mph for a long time does offer some correction. The dumbest thing i read on here was the exhaust from a car in front of you while driving is giving you higher temp readings. That is dumb. The other thing is thinking it effects the climate control system. Air Conditioning uses a TXV or what is known as a thermal expansion valve to cycle the AC system. Get it Thermal Valve? Its like the thermostat on house AC panel but it is located on your heater core area. Just drive a while before you go digging in your front bumper. The sensor is located under the horn a few inches back.
#36
Senior Moderator
Hi! Welcome! Your first impression has been fabulous. Why is my idea dumb? Sorry. You said my idea was stupid. Why is my idea stupid?
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