Need help urgent with timing belt job

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-08-2017, 09:50 PM
  #1  
Racer
Thread Starter
 
deepa1600's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Ontario
Posts: 338
Received 96 Likes on 79 Posts
Need help urgent with timing belt job

Hi all, so i did everything right during the removal of timing belt other stuff. Now when i was installing the belt i was trying to get belt on crank sprocket and the key was out and crank key wouldn't align due to tension on belt so i took 17mm wrench and tried to move front cam clockwise so that i could intsert key into crank sprocket. Acidently i moved both cams about 1 inch forward from TDC. Crankshaft didn't move as there was no key in it. After this i moved cams backward with 17mm to TDC. My question is do i need to redo the whole procedure? After i inserted the crank key i moved it clockwise a couple turns the timing marks do match on crank and cam pulleys.
Old 11-08-2017, 10:35 PM
  #2  
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
teh CL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kelowna
Age: 36
Posts: 14,217
Received 999 Likes on 650 Posts
As long as the timing marks all line up after multiple rotations then you shouldn't have anything to worry about..
Old 11-08-2017, 10:42 PM
  #3  
Racer
Thread Starter
 
deepa1600's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Ontario
Posts: 338
Received 96 Likes on 79 Posts
Originally Posted by teh CL
As long as the timing marks all line up after multiple rotations then you shouldn't have anything to worry about..
since our J engines rotate clockwise, would there be a problem since i had to rotate both cams about 1" counterclockwise to bring them to TDC. Anyway, engine spins freely with plugs out and i didn't hear any metal to metal sound on rotation with hand. Haven't fired it yet though. Will see tomorrow and report back.
Old 11-09-2017, 06:21 AM
  #4  
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
teh CL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kelowna
Age: 36
Posts: 14,217
Received 999 Likes on 650 Posts
I did the same thing when I changed out the timing belt on my old CL-S, no issues at all.
Old 11-09-2017, 10:44 PM
  #5  
Racer
Thread Starter
 
deepa1600's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Ontario
Posts: 338
Received 96 Likes on 79 Posts
So, today i put everything back together and fired it up and it coughed a bit and now its running excellent. Feels like a new car with instant throttle response due to new plugs and new transmission pressure switches.
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (11-14-2017)
Old 11-10-2017, 08:57 AM
  #6  
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
 
teh CL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kelowna
Age: 36
Posts: 14,217
Received 999 Likes on 650 Posts
Old 11-10-2017, 09:34 AM
  #7  
Racer
Thread Starter
 
deepa1600's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Ontario
Posts: 338
Received 96 Likes on 79 Posts
Thanks for your help. I was freaking out when i turned that ignition switch.
The following 2 users liked this post by deepa1600:
justnspace (11-14-2017), teh CL (11-10-2017)
Old 11-11-2017, 04:48 PM
  #8  
Cruisin'
 
2005RL_boi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Age: 33
Posts: 17
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Hi, I've been wondering whether to switch my pressure switches on the tranny. What symptoms did you have to make you want to replace them?
Old 11-11-2017, 06:27 PM
  #9  
Racer
Thread Starter
 
deepa1600's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Ontario
Posts: 338
Received 96 Likes on 79 Posts
Originally Posted by 2005RL_boi
Hi, I've been wondering whether to switch my pressure switches on the tranny. What symptoms did you have to make you want to replace them?
I changed all 3 switches. 3rd gear switch was causing me problems (Check transmission, AFS lights with flashing 'D' Indicator) so i changed that about 2 months ago. The other two were not causing any issues i just changed as preventive maintenance and because i was doing timing belt and had the battery out to change thermostat. The one on top, close to firewall, is a B***h to get to, For 3rd gear i used OEM and other two i bought from rockauto (Airtex/Wells 1S7426). I was afraid about airtex switches since they were not oem but they seem good and are made in Japan.
Old 11-13-2017, 03:11 PM
  #10  
Cruisin'
 
2005RL_boi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Age: 33
Posts: 17
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by deepa1600
I changed all 3 switches. 3rd gear switch was causing me problems (Check transmission, AFS lights with flashing 'D' Indicator) so i changed that about 2 months ago. The other two were not causing any issues i just changed as preventive maintenance and because i was doing timing belt and had the battery out to change thermostat. The one on top, close to firewall, is a B***h to get to, For 3rd gear i used OEM and other two i bought from rockauto (Airtex/Wells 1S7426). I was afraid about airtex switches since they were not oem but they seem good and are made in Japan.

Okay thanks for the info. I’m not sure I need my switches changed yet. Only symptom I have is a weird shift from 2nd to 3rd. I’ll do some more research
Old 11-13-2017, 06:08 PM
  #11  
Racer
Thread Starter
 
deepa1600's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Ontario
Posts: 338
Received 96 Likes on 79 Posts
Originally Posted by 2005RL_boi
Okay thanks for the info. I’m not sure I need my switches changed yet. Only symptom I have is a weird shift from 2nd to 3rd. I’ll do some more research
You can try resetting transmission ECU by turning ignition switch to ON (dont't crank the engine) and then fully depress gas pedal and keep it depressed for 30 sec and then let go off it and then turn off the ignition witch and wait few seconds and then start the engine. Now the ECU will reset to factory settings and start learning your driving behaviour and shits accrodingly overtime.
Old 11-14-2017, 12:13 PM
  #12  
Cruisin'
 
2005RL_boi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Age: 33
Posts: 17
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by deepa1600
You can try resetting transmission ECU by turning ignition switch to ON (dont't crank the engine) and then fully depress gas pedal and keep it depressed for 30 sec and then let go off it and then turn off the ignition witch and wait few seconds and then start the engine. Now the ECU will reset to factory settings and start learning your driving behaviour and shits accrodingly overtime.

Thanks I’ve never heard of this! Maybe that’ll make that shift smoother. It definitely feels like it’s my throttle position that makes it a rough shift. I’ll give it a shot.
Old 11-15-2017, 09:51 AM
  #13  
Intermediate
 
ksu1018's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Kansas City Metro
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Where are the 3 transmission pressure switches located? Can they be replaces without having to the the timing belt replacement?
Old 11-15-2017, 10:09 AM
  #14  
Racer
Thread Starter
 
deepa1600's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Ontario
Posts: 338
Received 96 Likes on 79 Posts
Originally Posted by ksu1018
Where are the 3 transmission pressure switches located? Can they be replaces without having to the the timing belt replacement?
Yes you can replace them independently of timing belt job. I would recommend to do an transmission oil change after you do them. They are #11 (28600-RAY-013) and #12 (28610-RKE-004) in the picture. The #11 you need two of them and don't forget to replace the washers as well (#18)



Last edited by deepa1600; 11-15-2017 at 10:11 AM.
Old 11-15-2017, 10:24 AM
  #15  
Senior Moderator
 
thoiboi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SoCal, CA
Posts: 46,874
Received 8,582 Likes on 6,629 Posts
Originally Posted by ksu1018
Where are the 3 transmission pressure switches located? Can they be replaces without having to the the timing belt replacement?

They're located on the transmission () The transmission is on the other side of the timing belt so yes, they can be replaced exclusively from the timing belt
The following users liked this post:
teh CL (11-15-2017)




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:34 AM.