I-005: Signs of a Dying Battery
 

All too often we hear about the Christmas tree dash and the gremlins running through our wire harnesses here in the 2G forum. Probably the most unusual feature of our car's "check battery warning system" is that it is almost never the same.

So, I would like to compile a thread containing all the experiences from members here that have encountered a dying battery in their RL.

If you would like to help, please include:
1) The first signs/warnings that led you to a new battery
2) The age of the battery at the first sign
3) The brand of the dying battery
4) If a new battery solved all of your issues, or if you had to do something extra.
5) The brand of the replacement battery

The first sign for my RL was that the passenger light would turn off while the engine was cranking. After some time, the driver's side would also turn off. Of course both were on (Auto mode) before I started the engine. After a couple of months of this, I got an "AFS warning" light on the dash after a car inspector left the lights on with the car off for about 10 minutes.

The battery was ~4.5 years old at the first signs, and it was 4.75 years when I replaced it. It was the original Acura battery, and a replacement fixed all of my issues. I also noticed that the engine cranked MUCH faster with the new battery, so I suppose another sign is a relatively slow engine crank. I used a Super Start Extreme size 24 from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $100 after refund.

I have had 2 batteries fail in the 5 years since new. Both batteries exhibited the same symptoms and same results with the replacements.

1) Steering wheel would not telescope completely to saved position. Mem 1 & 2 buttons would not be illuminated, and I would have to select a memory profile. Both batteries failed approx 2 weeks after these symptoms surfaced.

2) Batteries failed at 2.5 years.

3) Acura

4) No issues once new battery installed.

5) Acura

I have had 2 battery failures and both times the first indication was upon entrance, the cycle to preset to Mem 1 was not completed, specifically the steering column would never reach desired extention.
Both batteries were Acura with the first being 6 years old and the second having a dead cell after 14 months. The second occasion was last Friday when it was so dead that my radio and Nav codes were gone.

When you replace your battery, you will need a flush-top/flush-cover battery as our (+) terminal cable has a bulky fuse box attached to it. Anything with a raised cover for the water holes will not work without modification.

The OEM size is 24, but some claim to have used size 25. There isn't much room between the battery and the hood, so be careful not to buy one that is much taller than OEM.

Here are the service manual procedures for resetting the electronics in the case that they don't function after replacing a battery.

Remember to make sure you have your 4-digit nav code & 5-digit radio code before disconnecting your battery.

Please note that to accomplish some of the above procedures you must stand on one leg and wave a dead chicken!

Also on my 3rd battery. My symptoms were just like Tampas, i.e., just steering wheel would not telescope. No other gremlins.

Batteries lasted about 3 yrs each.

Great thread! This is very useful. Maybe some of this should have ended up in the user's manual.

My original battery died at 3.5 years. The only sign was the CMBS/ACC warning light coming on when stationary with a high power load caused by aircon or similar. Spotted on this forum that that had meant dying battery for one member and given that I was at the average life for these batteries prefered to change it before spending on expensive diagnostics of ACC /CMBS. Did the trick and had a new main dealer battery fitted. Just one example of this forum saving me time, worry and expense.

Accura battery, 2.5 years, batt reads 12.33v cold.

Signs included:

Door handles acting funny
Moon roof dead
Power windows dead
Seat mem dead
Door locks dead, but worked with fob

Disconnecting battery for 20 mins got everything working again.

Mine was found during an oil change and replaced under warranty. After the replacement everything worked fine, even though I found the + terminal was fall-off loose, in my usual check-everything-after-the-dealership-touches-it-inspection. ;)

Not sure the mileage, but it was close to warranty expiring, so maybe 48K.

1) Door wouldn't react normally to touching the handle (would unlock, then lock before i could open the door), car then went completely dead. Even a jump didn't revive it enough to start.
2) Looks like the original, so about 6 years old
3) OEM Acura
4) After changing the battery, everything went back to normal
5) Die Hard Gold

Adding some more options from other users.

Older post:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=battery

Batteries
 

As you can see the RL battery is pretty small, that's why we have to constantly replace them. I was told they just ran out of room under the hood.
The original lasted about 3.5 years, the warranty replacement the same. I currently have a EZ Lube brand battery with a full 5 year warranty.

1) Hard cranking. Passanger window not working from drivers side. XM radio complaining that the antenna was not connected. Steering wheel not moving on entry/exit. No driver 1 acknowledgement on dash. Battery voltage checked at 10.7.
2) 2 Years
3) OEM Acura (No warranty, dealer said warranty not transferrable)
4) New Battery solved XM issue. Rest solved by resetting ignition switch as per post. (Thank You!!)
5) OEM Honda

1) steering wheel not telescoping, low engine oil warning even tho it was full, vsa warning, radio was on and off when key was switched to the II position
2) 1 yr
3) oem battery for almost 5 yrs
4) no issue
5) red top 25

1) Car would not start
2) 4 years
3) Acura battery
4) had to reenter navigation and radio codes, may have to do more, not sure yet.
5) Duracell 34 (850 CCA @ 0 F)

TampaRL maybe the heat is destroying your batteries prematurely. The Acura battery is really not that great. Many recommend the AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) type of battery for cars that have high electric demand like the RL's. I would have bought one if Sam's Club would have had the stock they said they had.

I have had zero issues with my battery. However, came back from a work trip after not starting the car for 2 weeks. Dead as a doornail.

:popcorn: old thread bumpage.

All battery failures I have had had occurred after either a very hot day or a cold snap.

We had a cold snap here a few weeks ago and now my power telescope is intermittently working or the MEM 1 does not complete. I am awaiting a dead battery. Fortunately I now have one of those portable jumpers in the trunk (which I have yet to use on my own car but have had several 'Good Samaritan' uses. It should be a standard feature on this car!)

My RL is approaching 9 years of age. This will be it's 4th battery and all have been Acura batteries. To date, all of my batteries have been replaced under warranties of the OEM, or the replacement battery warranty. With this last replacement, the battery warranty has been modified to be a pro-rating, so I may be kicking in $$$ for the replacement.

My MID is about to present my next service call, so I am waiting to bring it in and have the battery tested. In the past when these symptoms arose I had it tested and it checked OK (Prolly after the highway drive to the dealer did some recharging). But twice before after testing OK it was dead as a doornail the very next day. :rolleyes:

Considering I just hit 58K miles on my RL and I am expecting my 4th battery, this car snacks on batteries.

Had appointment to take my RL in today for a B1 MID service. As I reported a few weeks ago my telescoping wheel and MEM 1 settings were intermittent. I thought I would have the battery checked on this service call.

Got in the car, *click*..... dead battery.

Now have a new battery, #4 in my 9 year old RL with 58K miles.

About the only problems I have had with Acura and I have owned 6 is the battery. Just last week I had the battery replaced in a 2012 TL with 13,000 miles on it. They use the worst batteries. You would think after all the replacements they have they would change the company they use for them.

I agree with jvette. The CCA of the OEM battery is barely adequate for a car with this many electrical demands. I recommend buying a much more capable battery and it will provide better service. Should be able to get a MUCH better battery in the $100 -$125 range. If you are a Sam's club member they have very good batteries at excellent prices.

I had a 2007 RL and currently a 2010 combined for 8 years. I just got my third battery. They have lasted about three years. Sign of failure all times was the telescopic steering wheel not working. I bought the Sears Advanced Diehard Gold. It has a full three year replacement and pro-rated after that for five years. When the battery finally goes dead you get some weird electronic malfunctions. One time I got a low oil warning light. I checked by oil level and i was down a quart so i added. When I got the new battery I was a quart over.

I am wondering if when turning on the car, while the starter is kicking in to start it, in those 2 seconds, if some lights on the dashboard like the 'hello driver 1' start flashing while you ignite, does it mean battery's up, or why does it do that?

Are you saying the MID flashes while cranking?

Yes, like very fast. what's a MID?

Middle Information Display. It's the screen that says "Welcome Driver 1". That blinks?

What about your radio? What does it do if it's on when you crank?

im gonna try to crank today with radio on.

I'll add a sign: trying to start the car and feeling a little weak wave sound, then it starts up.

This happened to me less than 2 months after I bought my car, but I never catalogued things

1) Long crank time, even after driving the car for 20 miles, lost teloscoping wheel
2) Aug 2008, occurred in May 2012, so almost 4 years
3) OEM Acura
4) All issues resolved, since then I've installed a dash cam w/park mode and now a remote start.
5) Bosch 800 or 850 cca, battery has been fine since. I put the car on a tender if I leave it longer than a week