Car_rookie925

My gas pedal has recently been hard to press. Like its not that sensitive and It lags to get up to speed. Im a big DIY guy and this is my fisrt ever car. Ive done all the basic cleaning including my air filters and removing all my air intake systems and cleaning them with the proper cleaning supplies ive learned on here. But I just feel like my RL can do soo much more. Its a 06 RL wit only 119k. Hope someone can help
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projektvertx

iTrader: (2)

Welcome! Try an ECU reset:

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...-happy-747662/

Geonico

I have the same problem, the above method did not work for me. My gas pedal is hard to press and when the car finally gets moving it seems like its stuck in first gear. I have an 05 RL. I hope someone offers a solution. I have read the last 50 pages over the course of three weeks. Maybe I should read them again, just slower.

oo7spy

I'm confused on the symptoms of the issue. The pedal is hard to press like it takes more than expected force? Or you have to press the pedal farther than expected to get throttle response?

Geonico

It takes more than expected force. Basically I can push it down 25% and it will sound like it's in first gear and the vehicle will be barely moving. Fuel injectors clogged or something wrong with gas pedal?

projektvertx

iTrader: (2)

Have you tried manually shifting the car to see if it gets out of first gear? Based on the limited information, it almost sounds like An electronic issue with the gas pedal, which is drive by wire, is not sending a proper signal to the throttle? Could be a bad pedal? I would check to see if the car CAN get out of first (do so safely of course )

Geonico

I can drive it and shift from 1st to 3rd with no problem. It seems like it's in 1st gear until I get up to 30 -40 miles an hour. The 1st gear feel is there until 30-40 miles an hour. The vehicle sounds like it's in neutral when I am pressing the gas pedal...... naturally it's in drive the whole time.

projektvertx

iTrader: (2)

Any lights on the dash? And it doesn't go above 3rd gear even above 40mph, even when you go into slapshift mode?

Geonico

Vehicle stability assist 61 and I noticed this when I replaced the battery. I saw this when I moved my battery

oo7spy

What area of the car is that picture of?

There is an injector TSB for certain time periods of KB1 production, but I don't know that it applies. Do you have any lights on your dash or error messages elsewhere besides VSA 61?

Geonico

This is just below and to the left of the battery

Geonico

The drivers side headlight assembly was smashed and shattered to pieces just prior to the picture being taken. It was an act of vandalism.

oo7spy

Was this reported to cops and insurance? Are the symptoms you have with the gas pedal a result of the front end damage or was it present before?

Geonico

No and No.... it was on private property and I have a deductible that is high. Insurance will raise your rate for minor claims. I found a replacement headlight assembly locally.

CurrentDraw

The solenoid coil housing has snapped off. It can be fixed but will require some testing equipment to confirm proper operation after repair.

If you don't want to bother with all that then just get yourself a new clutch pressure control solenoid valve C, it is secured with four 10mm bolts. Easy install and no calibration necessary.

Geonico

so that will cause the stiff acceleration and the sense of being stuck in 1st gear/ pressing the gas while in neutral revving feeling?

CurrentDraw

It is a critical component for proper transmission operation and can cause all sorts of issues, I would start by repairing that first.

Geonico

Ok, I will go from there. Thanks

Geonico

I pulled the codes and the following codes showed up: P1745, P1780, P0746 Pressure control solenoid "A" Performance/ Stuck Off and P0777 Pressure control solenoid "B" Stuck on. I am going to change the transmission fluid and replace the solenoids.

Geonico

Doing it this weekend

CurrentDraw

The snapped portion of solenoid C houses the electrical coil winding which is continously monitored by PCM for shorts and open. Since the connector nor the housing is damaged, solenoid C is known "good" and electrically sound as far as the PCM is concerned. The PCM doesn't have the luxury of doing a visual check but we can, and it is clear from your pic that solenoid C is detached from its valve/pintle housing (bolted to the transmission).

I would do a quick visual check on your DTC triggered solenoids A and B and if everything checks out then start by replacing C since you know it is broken and go from there. Those solenoids are not cheap and if you go out replacing them just because the scanner is throwing a DTC for it you may be spending money for no reason. Good luck.

Geonico

Will do, this weekend. thanks