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I stick with proven leader Mobil 1. The oil debate has been covered ad nauseum on many forums and I presume here as well but havent confirmed.
Usually all upsides with full synthetic oil with generally longer change intervals, flows better in winter, protects better at higher temps too, better engine wear protection etc. I generally use it on all my vehicles (havent converted land cruiser over yet) now as prices have dropped significantly and I can easily get at Walmart now too its a no brainer.
So this.
Do you still change the oil at same intervals indicated by car's oil life%?
Its actually not expensive I quickly looked yesterday and i think i saw something different like a hundred bucks for 5 liters... It's actually 25 bucks.
But yea, I trust costco Gonna have to do oil somewhere else now.
I believe my engine is leaking from the oil filter pump AND the valve covers.
I can see it dripping down from valve covers.
and I use 5w-30 to begin with.
in conclusion, if you want the leak to stop, you'll have to find the source and not use a bandaid to cover it up
No no, absolutely. Not seeking to stop the leak that way necessarily. Merely taking the advice that it's generally better to use this type of oil for high mileage cars. Mine has 110k miles. Dunno if that qualifies for high on our cars, but if it's a better oil to keep the engine healthy, why not? I appreciate the advice.
I'm wondering if 1. i should use that oil, and 2. if its better to use it in 5w20 or increase ...
High mileage might swell some of the seals but I doubt it will stop the leak... Wouldn't hurt to switch, but if you do, I'd stick to HM oil from here on out.
High mileage oil has seal conditioners that will help the rubber gaskets become elastic again. Over time these rubber seals hardens and loses its effectiveness to seal and so oil could leak through. It isn't the best solution, but it is worth a shot, if you can't seem to find the source of the leak. Stick with 5W20 oil. Pennzoil has a rebate right now where you get $10 back for a jug. You can buy a jug which is 5 quarts of 5w20 high mileage synthetic oil at walmart for $22 - 10 rebate = $12.
Btw. Just to make sure we're on the same facts. The oil appears to be leaking from a bold / drain that is going in sideways from the passenger side, NOT the main drain plug below that's removed to change the oil.
Amir & rockstar was your leak accumulate on the bottom one?
I couldn't take pics at the dealer, but will soon to show you which bolt.
I purchased a TL to daily back in September & it ended up needing a motor. I swapped in a higher mileage motor (200k KM) & just used a basic conventional oil to get her going. I noticed every couple weeks that the dipstick was noticeably off the full mark. It usually takes less than a quart to top off but a couple weeks ago I decided to switch to Castrol Synthetic ($28 for 5 litres at Walmart). It's still drinking a bit of oil but the synthetic oil definitely slowed it down, now I top it up every 3 weeks as oppose to every 2 weeks & my driving habits haven't changed at all, still gets driven hard as hell .. Hope that helps
One thing I've been thinking about is that it could be the gasket between the oil pump/oil filter housing. There's a little screen on the gasket that could very well be gummed up.
I'm going to lift it up somewhere, spray that cleaner on to remove all oil marks, and on next oil change take pics of where its coming from.
Once we're sure 100% where its bleeding from, next step becomes clearer. in the meantime, I'm topping off every month, about half a liter. not a drag. I'm using shell oil 5w20. Not synthetic.
I’m thinking it’s probably your valve covers. I recently did mine @ 114k. I wasn’t having to add oil between changes, but occasionally I could smell oil dripping onto the manifold. I was also seeing oil accumulating in a few places when I would change my oil. The whole thing cost approximately $90 diy this includes valve cover gasket kit (includes front and rear) and intake gasket kit. The intake gaskets are optional, but you might as well change them because you’re already in there. I would think it would cost around $400-600 from a local garage.
I’m thinking it’s probably your valve covers. I recently did mine @ 114k. I wasn’t having to add oil between changes, but occasionally I could smell oil dripping onto the manifold. I was also seeing oil accumulating in a few places when I would change my oil. The whole thing cost approximately $90 diy this includes valve cover gasket kit (includes front and rear) and intake gasket kit. The intake gaskets are optional, but you might as well change them because you’re already in there. I would think it would cost around $400-600 from a local garage.
I hear you. But I don't have any oil smell. And it's really localized below between the block and the oil pan. I gonna hopefully post clear pictures soon. I'm sure the Costco guys will be nice enough to lift it and spray the cleaner, so we can see the trail again on next oil change.
I'm going to lift it up somewhere, spray that cleaner on to remove all oil marks, and on next oil change take pics of where its coming from.
Once we're sure 100% where its bleeding from, next step becomes clearer. in the meantime, I'm topping off every month, about half a liter. not a drag. I'm using shell oil 5w20. Not synthetic.
I thought I mentioned this previously but guess not. This is SOP when trying to detect a leak. Clean off the old and trace a clean trail but I dont think Costco would perform this for you as its best to execute with brake cleaner since it evaporates very quickly and you can pinpoint areas with spout and high pressure sprayer on the can.
Josh - Im with you and suspect its also valve covers and you dont need to smell the oil burning for it to be valve covers. Had an valve cover leak on my x5 I just repaired and you dont want to know that estimate for that work. The quickest way to verify is to pop the inspection panel and look in the valley or pull a plug.
I thought I mentioned this previously but guess not. This is SOP when trying to detect a leak. Clean off the old and trace a clean trail but I dont think Costco would perform this for you as its best to execute with brake cleaner since it evaporates very quickly and you can pinpoint areas with spout and high pressure sprayer on the can.
Josh - Im with you and suspect its also valve covers and you dont need to smell the oil burning for it to be valve covers. Had an valve cover leak on my x5 I just repaired and you dont want to know that estimate for that work. The quickest way to verify is to pop the inspection panel and look in the valley or pull a plug.
Good luck RL09
The dealer mechanic last week said its the oil pump gasket.
The dealer mechanic last week said its the oil pump gasket.
Ok then Im really confused if thats the diagnosis then whats the point in having Costco clean anything and verify the leak on your next oil change? Just change that gasket!
Ok then Im really confused if thats the diagnosis then whats the point in having Costco clean anything and verify the leak on your next oil change? Just change that gasket!
As I said on the previous page, they gave me an estimate of 1500 (1200US$) to change it!
But i'm sorry I had forgotten to mention that a couple of days before going to the dealer I had topped off the oil and some slipped outside the hole. which he said initially confused him into thinking there's a major leak.
So, some possible wishful thinking is making me wanna double check and make sure with you guys through pictures before I make the next move.
I feel dumb i didn't do it with the timing belt. Gotta remove that apparently to get to it. 1500 canadians is the estimate to change a bloody gasket.
I don't feel so bad now that my dealer quoted me $1200 for the same work. I am almost positive I have the same leak now for close to 2 years but never seen a drop on my garage floor or any noticeable difference in fluid levels at oil change intervals. I have been using synthetic since the first oil change and I now have about 135K miles on my 2006. Like some of the others, I plan on leaving it alone and not worry about it since it's so costly to change out that gasket.
Well here's an update as promised. I've started with a new mechanic and I think he's relatively decent. The leak is indeed from a bolt like I mentioned. It's a horizontal bolt that's not far above the vertical drain plug. I've taken it's picture. It's the one on the top right:
The guy checked and checked and said there is no oil above it. We also had cleaned the area up two days ago while changing the alternator. So the only oil is from that bolt downwards.
They tried removing it but it's a long bolt and it hit the axle. Which means to remove it entirely and change the washer, one needs to get the axle out of the way, which starts by getting the exhaust out of the way... It's a few hours job for a washer.
They also said it's impossible that it's the oil pump gasket like the dealer said.
Why is that bolt long? ... It seems a design flaw where changing a washer would entail hundreds in labor hours... .
That looks like it could be a bad oil pan? It's hard to tell from that perspective, what are you looking up to from there? I'm not familiar enough with the 3.7 to know...
I have a J37A2 on a engine stand & checked for this bolt. I believe there are 2 or 3 horizontal bolts, no idea what they would be for though. Even more random that's they're leaking oil..
which looks to also be leaking.. I think you need to just pay up and let them diagnose
I did. Dealer said 'oil pump gasket'. Which my new mechanic few days ago said that cannot be. He sprayed all clean, then checked two days later. it's coming from that bolt, and he believes it is dripping to look like a leak from the main drain plug too as you say.
He just doesn't know what that bolt is for...
If main drain plug is 12, then the one above it to the right seems to be number... 13?
Originally Posted by teh CL
I have a J37A2 on a engine stand & checked for this bolt. I believe there are 2 or 3 horizontal bolts, no idea what they would be for though. Even more random that's they're leaking oil..
Yep.. Which is what the mechanic is finding hard to conclude.
And when he unscrewed it to try and change its washer, it can't be removed all the way coz it's long and it's head is hitting the axle.
Was changing rear differential fluid there last week. They almost used only 1 liter and owner had to come and tell the mechanic there's another chamber that'll take the other 1.7 liters.
They are used to bmw x drive with only 1 liter in the back.
Old fluid was tasting and smelling like new. Same color as original. fingers crossed.
02-02-2018, 01:16 PM
.. Hope that helps 
But no, both horizontal.
