Juice-D

Hi folks - Went to start my car this morning, and my remote didn't work. Figured the remote battery was dead, so I got my second remote, and that didn't work either. So I pried up the ignition cover and used the manual key, car started up fine, got a message on the dash - 'Check Keyless Entry System'.

Is this something I can fix, a fuse perhaps, or something simple? I did a quick search and didn't really find anything helpful. I have a 2005 RL.

Thanks.

oo7spy

How old is the battery? Maybe try a hard reset by disconnecting the cables and touching them together for a minute.

It also may be a possible door handle issue. Those tend to do weird things like that.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

I would definitely hard reset the car and cross your fingers.

I didnt read mention of the doors being locked... if so did the alarm go off when you used the key?

TampaRLX-SH

Does the car recognize the fob? Do you see 'Welcome Drive 1 or 2' in the MID? If you see only 'Welcome' the fobs are not paired to the car.

Is there a warning on the dash for the proximity key? The icon looks like a key. If that warning is illuminated, the car is not sensing the fob and it may be an internal issue with the proximity key sensors (assuming you have the fob with you int he car). A battery reset, as mentioned above may reset that.

If not it may need diagnostics.

Juice-D

Thanks for the replies. I replaced the battery in June of this year, so it's pretty new. I do get a warning on the dash for the proximity key, and the message 'check keyless entry system' in the display.

If I do a hard reset, am I going to need the security codes for my radio?

TampaRLX-SH

Always have your NAVI Code, Radio Code and PIN (if you set one) handy. A power interruption on a few minutes usually will not require the codes. But if you want to do a system reset, you need to pull the power for 15 minutes or so....and most likely will require the codes.

It sounds like the proximity key sensor is not working. If the hard reboot of the car does not cure it, you will need dealer diagnostics.

Juice-D

Just to update anyone interested. I ended up bringing to the dealer. A fuse (fuse #7) kept blowing, this fuse controls a whole host of electronics apparently - nav, doors, fuel door release, bunch more.

It was blowing due to a short in the drivers side front door handle. That handle needs to be replaced to fix the issue apparently.

So if anyone has an issue where there key fobs stop working for no reason, check your front driver side door handle.

oo7spy

Door handle! *BOOM*



Called it.


Glad you got it fixed, OP.

Juice-D

Yep, nice job 007. They actually ended up disconnecting the fuse for just the door handle, so everything works again except the alarm. Not bad, and saved me the cost of replacing the handle.

HEAVY_RL

iTrader: (1)

oo7spy

Even the touch sensors work?

Juice-D

No, not the touch sensors. But those never worked well for me anyway. But the key fob will lock/unlock the door now, and I don't need the manual key to start the car. So it's just the alarm, and like you say, the handle touch sensors.

jfoster42344

If you look on the inside of the handle, usually there is a light that goes out. the door handles control a lot of things, dpms, door locks, even cause a draw that will kill the battery

scottsan

Just started getting this issue last week. Took it to my local mechanic and I was charged $60 to diagnosis.

They found the issue was with the door handle but want ~$950 to replace the two.

I know this is an old thread, but how much did Acura want for them?

scottsan

and then just called Acura and they quoted me $1004. eek.

oo7spy

I'm pretty sure parts alone are $300+ per handle. You can do it yourself though. It's tedious but doable.

scottsan

I see, so $1000 is somewhat reasonable.

oo7spy

For both handles, yes, your first quote seems okay.

velobard

On a similar note, is there any problem with running a car with only the manual key and not the remote? Our car is in a long-term lot and we're extending our trip, so I'm thinking of sending the manual key via fedex. We only have one fob and would really be up a creek if anything happened to it in shipping or at my relatives house. The budget is a bit tight to get another fob right now, but I am looking into getting a new chipped key tomorrow to ship, even if it's not the version that fits into a fob.

Also, is there any risk of damage to the plastic cover on the ignition when they pop it off to start the car? I haven't tried it before.

oo7spy

It is my understanding that the physical key has a chip in the plastic that unlocks the immobilizer. Remote start systems work by putting one of the physical keys in the car, usually in the steering column. The fob alone can allow access to all of the car except the immobilizer which you need a key for (I think).

velobard

I understand that I'd have to have a chipped key, I just want to make sure it won't cause any problem to send just a key, not the fob. Would the alarm go off when they open the car door or anything?

oo7spy

No. The door locks will disable the alarm. It would be similar to if your fob battery completely died and the car couldn't recognize it.

velobard

Thank goodness. I've had another car where the key in the door didn't disarm the alarm if it was locked with the fob.

oo7spy

Really? My comment is based off of intuition, not experience. I don't have an RL to confirm, but any system where a physical key isn't good enough is poorly engineered.

Flykidddd

Just woke up this morning with the same problem, key doesn't pop trunk, lock/unlock doors but strangly enough it does work with the Panic button so I know it's not the keyfob and after using my car last night working fine I don't know what it could of been. When I started the car manually it shows check keyless entry system and the alarm goes off and I CANT shut it off.

Where is that Fuse #7 located? I rather avoid going to the dealer at all cost, I recently changed my driver's door panel to a 2008s could that have cost a problem?

oo7spy

It's fuse 7 in the driver's kick panel (under the dash, to the left of the pedals).

Flykidddd

Just an update, I found that Fuse #7 (10A) was blown and I replaced it (10A) and the car seemed to be fix, to only have the fuse blow once more only a few seconds later.
I then replaced the fuse for a (20A) fuse and the car started working perfectly fine, locks, trunk, gps, keyless start but almost right away I smelled plastic burning; my passenger door handle was smoking/burning so I removed that fuse. (DON'T TRY; LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE)
I then disconnected the passenger's door handle relay and replaced a original (10A) fuse to fuse #7 and the car now works fine, I lost the touch sensor on the passenger's side but I maintained it on the driver's side.

ecaz1

Where are the door handle relays located?

Flykidddd

It's located behind the door panel so you must remove it, be very careful with the removal cause it has a lot of sensors and wire harnesses all around, after you'll see a plastic bag covering the rest of the door, move that to the side without comepletely removing it and then you should be able to see your handle from inside the door, all you have to do is unplug the little black eltrical relay that is there and you saved yourself lots of trouble/money.

oo7spy

Indeed!

alfadoctor

What do you mean "pair the fobs to the car?" I never heard of that.

oo7spy

I assume you are referring to Tampa's post? Each fob pairs or syncs with the keyless access module to attach custom settings to it. The instructions to de-sync and re-sync are on the back of the fob. Without a pairing, the fob will still work, but the car will treat the driver like a generic "guest" with default settings.

scottsan

I just replaced my driver's side door handle and Fuse 7 and 8, but it's still not working.

Do I need to reset anything after the replacement? If so, how do I do this?

Thank you.

Chazz Da Barber

I'm having the very same problem.. glad there is this forum, becuz I was on my way to the Acura dealer, this week..... My question is " how do i disconnect the door handles
" Is that also a fuse, and where do I find it"
ThankYou guys for all the info - very insightful.......

Argo

I unplugged the door relay and it fixed my keyless entry problem initially. Now when I go to unlock my door with the key, alarm goes off and key fob doesn't work. Did I unplug the wrong relay?

rlx015

In the past every now and then when it's humid outside or it rains, my drivers handle would not allow me to lock by sensor in the handle - I would have to do it via remote, click to lock...
After this crazy cold weather few weeks ago (Chicagoland) my handle now started locking the car - sensor thinks I am locking the car all the time almost. When I come close to it, I grab the handle and instead of unlocking it, it actually locks it...

I am aiming to likely replace the handle, especially if it somehow affects fuse #7 - I don't like to chase the green gremlins down the rabbit hole lol

RL09

My problem is with changing something faulty with another. It'd be a matter of time before the other one leaked humidity.

I want to know exactly where that problem is, so as if i replace it, to wrap/isolate that area that would cause future issues.

Hell i even think if someone has tool and is good can probably take it out, see where the problem is, and fix it. Coz those handles are like 250USD a piece if im not mistaken.

RL09

You probably figured it out by now. But did u check fuse 7?

rlx015

I agree with you for sure, but the price is not that much if buying used, and you get opportunity to get gaskets from the dealer and use the "used" handle part.

Argo

Yeah, I had replaced fuse #7 after disconnecting the driver's side relay. I just reconnected the relay and my alarm quit going off every time I unlocked the door, but back to the original problem where the keyless entry system won't work.