car jerks after replacing shift solenoids
#1
car jerks after replacing shift solenoids
original solenoids felt like they were getting worn out and lagging behind when shifting etc
i bought a pair or solenoids from a guy parting out his car . he said he replaced them about 500 miles before he crashed the car and they looked brand new. the car only had 64000 original miles also so in either case they were newer than mine
replaced both with new gaskets and orings
went to test drive and it jerks really hard when shifting
code says p0797 clutch pressure solenoid valve C stuck ON
i run diagnostics on that valve with autel DS708 and it says valve is working ok
i reset the code and it comes back on during test drive. so im like wtf is wrong with this car
there havent been one part that i sucessfully fixed so far. it always has some kind of issue
its fn cursed or something
i bought a pair or solenoids from a guy parting out his car . he said he replaced them about 500 miles before he crashed the car and they looked brand new. the car only had 64000 original miles also so in either case they were newer than mine
replaced both with new gaskets and orings
went to test drive and it jerks really hard when shifting
code says p0797 clutch pressure solenoid valve C stuck ON
i run diagnostics on that valve with autel DS708 and it says valve is working ok
i reset the code and it comes back on during test drive. so im like wtf is wrong with this car
there havent been one part that i sucessfully fixed so far. it always has some kind of issue
its fn cursed or something
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
lol instead of justnspace, my car friends call me justonjacks!
my car is always on jacks cuz i cant fuckin repair the thing correctly. sorry for your troubles, but just chiming in to say, I understand your troubles.
one thing to note; you'll become a master of the RL after it's all said and done.
my car is always on jacks cuz i cant fuckin repair the thing correctly. sorry for your troubles, but just chiming in to say, I understand your troubles.
one thing to note; you'll become a master of the RL after it's all said and done.
#3
Senior Moderator
You have bad luck with this frankencar.. maybe get rid of it and start again new.
Have you tried putting the existing solenoid back to see if the problem exists? Maybe the wiring to the solenoid is the culprit?
#4
not yet it was dark already took forever to swap it out because of all the crap blocking the access to it
I was looking online and maybe the filter got clogged. might be something inside the solenoid that was stuck
because when I run diagnostics and function test with a scanner it comes back as good solenoid
but when I drive it throws a code
I was looking online and maybe the filter got clogged. might be something inside the solenoid that was stuck
because when I run diagnostics and function test with a scanner it comes back as good solenoid
but when I drive it throws a code
#5
its just annoying as fk all these little issues constantly breaking
replaced the wheel bearing with a good one. now its bad again
horn suddenly stopped working
stereo either works or doesn't or works half way
keys are pairing all funky causing memory loss etc just one big pile of bs all the itme
on a sidenote it made to a 400 mile round trip like a champ
pulled up the stevens pass like a baws no struggle at all
just crappy gas mileage 23mpg overall
could be because wheel bearing
replaced the wheel bearing with a good one. now its bad again
horn suddenly stopped working
stereo either works or doesn't or works half way
keys are pairing all funky causing memory loss etc just one big pile of bs all the itme
on a sidenote it made to a 400 mile round trip like a champ
pulled up the stevens pass like a baws no struggle at all
just crappy gas mileage 23mpg overall
could be because wheel bearing
#6
weird
replaced the top solenoid and it went away
the solenoid c is the dual solenoid unit that was throwing the code
but when i replaced the top single solenoid it started shifting right
replaced the top solenoid and it went away
the solenoid c is the dual solenoid unit that was throwing the code
but when i replaced the top single solenoid it started shifting right
#7
Pro
its just annoying as fk all these little issues constantly breaking
replaced the wheel bearing with a good one. now its bad again
horn suddenly stopped working
stereo either works or doesn't or works half way
keys are pairing all funky causing memory loss etc just one big pile of bs all the itme
on a sidenote it made to a 400 mile round trip like a champ
pulled up the stevens pass like a baws no struggle at all
just crappy gas mileage 23mpg overall
could be because wheel bearing
replaced the wheel bearing with a good one. now its bad again
horn suddenly stopped working
stereo either works or doesn't or works half way
keys are pairing all funky causing memory loss etc just one big pile of bs all the itme
on a sidenote it made to a 400 mile round trip like a champ
pulled up the stevens pass like a baws no struggle at all
just crappy gas mileage 23mpg overall
could be because wheel bearing
Just a note, when you buy a used car you most likely can get someone else's delayed maintenance issues. Then all you do is play catch up until they are all resolved. As my signature shows, we have a 1991 Alfa Spider "automatic" that was a barn find. It looked good and needed what appeared to be a few issues to resolve. The PO didn't do anything to keep up the maintenance and it wound up being parked. The more I dug into the car the more cr*p I had to fix. It has been a year and a half and I am ready to put the car on the road.
Your RL is a great car and doesn't need a lot of maintenance once you catch up. I love our RL with 212,000 miles.
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#8
driveshaft is bad too I know about that one. and already have a low mileage replacement that I haven't installed yet
the wheel bearing is I belive faulty because it started after I replaced the knuckle with a used one fro blown out ball joint but threw away my old wheel bearing
the wheel bearing is I belive faulty because it started after I replaced the knuckle with a used one fro blown out ball joint but threw away my old wheel bearing
#9
driveshaft is bad too I know about that one. and already have a low mileage replacement that I haven't installed yet
the wheel bearing is I belive faulty because it started after I replaced the knuckle with a used one fro blown out ball joint but threw away my old wheel bearing
the wheel bearing is I belive faulty because it started after I replaced the knuckle with a used one fro blown out ball joint but threw away my old wheel bearing
#11
Yeah, that's what i did. When i opened the hood and behold: the postive terminal was barely touching the battery, it just came off when i touched it. The reason for it was the wrong sized battery installed by previous owner, and the lights lit up like a Christmas terr when i tooks a sharp turn. The battery has 2 protrusions on top in between terminals which prevent + terminal to screw in and on top of everything there is no battery hold down. Do you know any alternative for our 24 BCI group battery? I bought size 34 from costco and will see tomorrow how it fits with the battery hold down. Both 34 and 24 have same dimensions other than size 34 is about 1" shorter.
#13
Well today it happened again (i changed the battery so that is not the reason) and car wouldn't shift past 4th gear. So is it solenoids? Does anyone knows where are they located on transmission?