kingofbytes

Hi All,

recently, I've been having a problem turning off the ignition - it stops at accessory. The only way to get it shut off is to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery then reconnect. Then I can go back in the car and turn the key off.

Curiously, I noticed that the "P" on the console (for park) is sometimes lit and sometimes NOT lit. When it is not lit is when I have this problem.

Occasionally, juggling the shifter will cause it to appear - you can sometimes hear a "zit" sound when jiggling - like a short or loose connection.

I've read on the boards that sometimes the brake pedal switch can cause these problems, but I've reached under and tinkered with that too and it doesn't appear to be the culprit.

I'm wondering if it's the shifter assembly? Thoughts?

oo7spy

The shifter has a switch inside that determines which gear the car is in. It is shown in the wiring diagram numerous times. I can't think of an AT car that allows you to turn the car off without being in park. The fact that your "P" light is affected and shifter manipulation can affect the result makes me just about certain it is this switch that has gone bad. If you are lucky, it will just be as simple as "popping off" the shift trim and getting to it with little parts removal.

kingofbytes

OK, before I pull it apart, here is a diagram of that area:
Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura

So I'm assuming you're thinking the #3 item (SWITCH ASSY., PARKING PIN & SHIFT) to check?

Or should I be looking at the #10 item and that connector to the release/shift lock....which, now that I'm typing seems to make more sense to me?

Thoughts?

kingofbytes

So I took everything apart today - pretty much a PITA. Probably about 3 hours into the removal - no doubt I'll be faster now that i know the secrets.

I noticed that the shift lock solenoid was intermittently getting power. The manual says to check the PCM from that point but I persisted in checking the transmission gear selection switch. Sure enough, the continuity between the pins when in manual (M) is not correct - it's intermittently bad...so probably something with that switch. The continuity should be reading zero here.

I'm debating whether to just replace the switch assembly ( 003 35740-SJA-A02 SWITCH ASSY., PARKING PIN & SHIFT) or just go with a salvage yard replacement for $100. The switch itself will be around $50 by the time you include shipping. I think I'll just go with a salvage yard at this point.

Seem like a good idea?

oo7spy

I assume you have the service manual to lead you. I meant to look into it on Friday, but I got too busy. Without that, I can't make a judgement call. It does look like good progress though.

kingofbytes

So, in this trek of fun, I realized I had two issues.

The primary issue: The Gear Position Sensor was messed up (probably just age and deterioration inside the assembly).

The secondary issue: The Floor Shift assembly was not giving proper continuity in certain scenarios thereby also affecting the outcome.

I replaced both. The Gear Position Sensor was 28900-RJB-043 and about $60.00. The Floor Shift assembly was $140 from salvage yard.

So about 8 or so hours all in for diagnose, resolve and test. The Gear position sensor replacement is a bit tricky.

Side note: The manual said to pull the battery tray. However, that seemed really tedious and I was able to to the replacement without doing that. I did have to pull the air box though. Also, I removed the left front tire and pulled back the vertical splash shield to access the gear position sensor. The manual does not specify this, but it was an easier process, at least for me.

HTH!

Chans

Has anyone ever replaced this? If so what position is neutral for the rod coming from the transmission? I ask because though I was able to replace it, I believe I may have rotated the rod causing my car to not sense Neutral or Drive 100% of the time. I can get back under there for a trial and error process, but anything more efficient would be greatly appreciated. Can this be reset by pulling the battery?

oo7spy

I merged your post into the only thread I know of regarding this part. (If this isn't what you're referring to, I can unmerge.)

Have you looked into the service manual?

Chans

The issues are similar. It seems as if the OP fixed this issue by replacing the PNP switch on the transmission. I caused my issue by replacing the same part (incorrectly). I was hoping someone was more familiar with the positioning of the rod on the transmission before I take a trial and error approach.

oo7spy

I am not, but I imagine the service manual would have everything you need.

Chans

After driving like this forever, I got time to address the issue. My issue was following this post to the letter DIY: Gear Position Sensor Replacement (aka "transmission range switch"). My replacement switch was NOT set to neutral and I installed it blindly. The end result was what I got. After I took it off and adjusted it before installing, everything was fine. The "line" on the replacement switch represents neutral and the arrow will need to be lined up with it. Shame on me for not being more on top of the situation.

Mo_Green

Don't get me wrong. I like everything about the 2019 RDX, except for the drive-train. I am trying to understand how the new drive-train is an improvement over the former 6cyl/6speed? The other thing that really turns me off is that Acura is forcing their owners into an extended warranty. That 6-cyl./6-speed is a classic Honda power plant. What was wrong with it? They had to replace it with a 4-cyl, turbo and a 10-speed.

What am I missing here??????

truonghthe

I think you post in the wrong section of the forum, this thread belong to 2nd Gen RL. However I can answer a few of your question.

1. Could you elaborate on how Acura forcing the owner into extended warranty? as far I know no car manufacture out there require extended warranty to maintain their factory warranty.

2. The combo of 4 cyl and turbo along with 10 spd AT was mean they could retain the power of a traditional V6 but with bonus of better fuel economy and cost on the production line.

3. Modern turbo charge engine has minimal turbo lag and they push out a pretty good torque especially at lower RPM where traditional V6 require fairly high rev to get into the torque band.

projektvertx

iTrader: (2)

Are you sure this was intended to be posted here?