C-002: DIY Oil Change with Pictures
04-01-2012, 11:49 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
C-002: DIY Oil Change with Pictures
I looked around this forum and couldn't find a DIY oil change thread so I took a bunch of pictures when I changed my oil today. You'll have to excuse the picture quality. They were all taken with my iPhone.
First off, I do not assume any responsibility for your car. If you don't think you have the basic mechanical skills to pull this off I highly recommend paying a shop to change your oil. If you forget to put the filter or drain bolt back on you will seize your motor. Even worse, if you don't properly stabilize the car it could fall on you and you will die.
That being said, this task is probably a .5 on a scale of 1-10 in terms of difficulty in the grand scheme of automobile maintenance. My brother taught his ex-girlfriend how to change the oil on her Legend and she's about as smart as a sack of hammers.
Let's start off with a list of things you'll need to do the job.
Need:
-4.5 quarts of 5w20 motor oil
-Oil Filter
-A new M-14 crush washer for the drain bolt
-Floor jack
-Jack stands
-17mm wrench
-Torque wrench
-Breaker bar
-21mm socket
-Something to put your used oil in
To add to that list these items are very helpful
-Nitrile gloves
-Something to put under the car like a big piece of cardboard.
-1 gallon ziplock bag
-Oil filter wrench
-Funnel
-Shop towels for clean up
Now that you have all of those things it's time to get started:
-Start your car and let it get up to operating temperature.
-While you are in the car SET THE PARKING BRAKE.
-As the car is warming up you can move on to the next step. Use your breaker bar and 21mm socket to loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel.
-The car should be warm enough by now so turn it off.
-Next look underneath the front of the car. Directly behind the front splash guard in the center of the car you will see this jacking point on the frame. (Sorry for the bad picture).
-Jack the car up high enough to get jack stands under both sides behind the front wheels.
-The jack stands go here on the pinch weld directly behind the front wheels.
-Now that the car is securely held by two jack stands and the parking brake, remove the jack from underneath the car.
-Now slide under the front of the car and find the oil drain bolt. It is labeled "Engine Oil" with an arrow pointing to the plug.
-The drain bolt has a 17mm head on it.
-I find it easiest to break the bolt loose first. Since it is underneath the car getting hit with water and road grime along with going through multiple heating and cooling cycles it can be difficult to break loose. Put your 17mm wrench on the bolt and give the wrench a few taps with a hammer or some other solid tool.
-Once you get a little movement out of the bolt put your oil catching pan underneath the drain.
-I use a 5 gallon oil drain pan that can be purchased at any auto parts store. It holds a enough oil for a few oil changes and is easy to pour out. These containers are hardly water tight so be careful where you put it once it is full.
-Now that you have the oil drain pan down there twist the drain bolt all the way out and let the oil drain out.
-The oil may be hot so watch out.
-You may want to put on a new pair of gloves after this step since they will get covered with oil.
Next pop the hood and locate the oil filler cap and remove it. This will allow the oil to drain much quicker out of the bottom.
-While the oil is moving go back to the right front wheel and remove it completely.
-This is the easiest way to get to the oil filter.
-Depending on who put the oil filter on last, you may or may not need to use the oil filter wrench. See if you can loosen it with your hands, if not use the wrench but don't turn it too much yet.
-This is where the 1 gallon ziplock bag comes in handy.
-Put your ziplock bag around the oil filter.
-Now continue spinning the oil filter until it drops down into the ziplock back. Using this bag keeps all of this oil contained instead of all over your garage floor.
-You should be left with this.
-Now open up your oil and use a dab of it on the new oil filter threading and then twist it back onto the car. This filter should be reasonably tight. You don't need to put it on with the double fisted death grip but it should be fairly tight.
-New oil filter installed.
-By now the oil is probably mostly drained and it's time to put everything back together under the car.
-Note: there will probably still be some oil dripping out of your car. This is okay.
-Put a new M-14 crush washer on the oil drain bolt.
-And bolt it back into the oil pan under the car.
-If you have a torque wrench that fits under there this bolt torques at 29ft/lbs.
-I just give it a good hearty turn with the wrench since my torque wrench doesn't fit in this tight space.
-Remove the oil drain pan from under the car along with any other tools you might have left under there.
-Put the wheel back on the right front.
-Jack the car back up in the same spot, remove the jack stands and let the car back down.
-Before you do anything else torque down that right front wheel so you don't forget about it. The lug nuts torque to 94ft/lbs and make sure you go in a star pattern.
-Now we are going to add oil back in. I use a funnel for this. Some people just pour from the bottle.
-Remember, it's 4.5 quarts. I personally use Mobil1. I've used it since I was 16 years old in all of my cars. Mobil1 sponsors Formula1 racing so I'm okay with spending a little more on my oil if some of my money is going to a good cause. I usually just buy the 5 quart bottle and measure out 1/2 a quart that I save in another oil bottle.
-Don't forget to put the oil filler cap back on too.
-Get back in the car and start it up.
-While the new oil is cycling through the motor reset your oil life indicator in the MID.
-Press the SEL/RESET button until you get to the oil life readout.
-Once there hold the SEL/RESET button for about 10 seconds and it will ask you if you want to reset. (Yes, I was way past my oil change because I had a busy couple of weeks).
-Press the up arrow so it highlights RESET and the press the SEL/RESET button again to confirm.
-Your oil life should now say 100% again.
And you're all done.
I highly recommend taking the car for a spin to make sure all is okay. You would hate to find out on your way to work the next morning that you screwed something up. Better to find out now while you still have time to work it out. Once the car has been sitting for a bit you should also check underneath for any new oil spots just in case the filter or drain bolt were not tightened enough.
I hope that somebody on here that may be a bit timid about changing their own oil to give it a try. I personally hate putting my car in the hands of somebody else for any reason, much less once every 5,000 miles for routine maintenance I can easily do myself.
If anybody has any questions or wants to add something please feel free.
First off, I do not assume any responsibility for your car. If you don't think you have the basic mechanical skills to pull this off I highly recommend paying a shop to change your oil. If you forget to put the filter or drain bolt back on you will seize your motor. Even worse, if you don't properly stabilize the car it could fall on you and you will die.
That being said, this task is probably a .5 on a scale of 1-10 in terms of difficulty in the grand scheme of automobile maintenance. My brother taught his ex-girlfriend how to change the oil on her Legend and she's about as smart as a sack of hammers.
Let's start off with a list of things you'll need to do the job.
Need:
-4.5 quarts of 5w20 motor oil
-Oil Filter
-A new M-14 crush washer for the drain bolt
-Floor jack
-Jack stands
-17mm wrench
-Torque wrench
-Breaker bar
-21mm socket
-Something to put your used oil in
To add to that list these items are very helpful
-Nitrile gloves
-Something to put under the car like a big piece of cardboard.
-1 gallon ziplock bag
-Oil filter wrench
-Funnel
-Shop towels for clean up
Now that you have all of those things it's time to get started:
-Start your car and let it get up to operating temperature.
-While you are in the car SET THE PARKING BRAKE.
-As the car is warming up you can move on to the next step. Use your breaker bar and 21mm socket to loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel.
-The car should be warm enough by now so turn it off.
-Next look underneath the front of the car. Directly behind the front splash guard in the center of the car you will see this jacking point on the frame. (Sorry for the bad picture).
-Jack the car up high enough to get jack stands under both sides behind the front wheels.
-The jack stands go here on the pinch weld directly behind the front wheels.
-Now that the car is securely held by two jack stands and the parking brake, remove the jack from underneath the car.
-Now slide under the front of the car and find the oil drain bolt. It is labeled "Engine Oil" with an arrow pointing to the plug.
-The drain bolt has a 17mm head on it.
-I find it easiest to break the bolt loose first. Since it is underneath the car getting hit with water and road grime along with going through multiple heating and cooling cycles it can be difficult to break loose. Put your 17mm wrench on the bolt and give the wrench a few taps with a hammer or some other solid tool.
-Once you get a little movement out of the bolt put your oil catching pan underneath the drain.
-I use a 5 gallon oil drain pan that can be purchased at any auto parts store. It holds a enough oil for a few oil changes and is easy to pour out. These containers are hardly water tight so be careful where you put it once it is full.
-Now that you have the oil drain pan down there twist the drain bolt all the way out and let the oil drain out.
-The oil may be hot so watch out.
-You may want to put on a new pair of gloves after this step since they will get covered with oil.
Next pop the hood and locate the oil filler cap and remove it. This will allow the oil to drain much quicker out of the bottom.
-While the oil is moving go back to the right front wheel and remove it completely.
-This is the easiest way to get to the oil filter.
-Depending on who put the oil filter on last, you may or may not need to use the oil filter wrench. See if you can loosen it with your hands, if not use the wrench but don't turn it too much yet.
-This is where the 1 gallon ziplock bag comes in handy.
-Put your ziplock bag around the oil filter.
-Now continue spinning the oil filter until it drops down into the ziplock back. Using this bag keeps all of this oil contained instead of all over your garage floor.
-You should be left with this.
-Now open up your oil and use a dab of it on the new oil filter threading and then twist it back onto the car. This filter should be reasonably tight. You don't need to put it on with the double fisted death grip but it should be fairly tight.
-New oil filter installed.
-By now the oil is probably mostly drained and it's time to put everything back together under the car.
-Note: there will probably still be some oil dripping out of your car. This is okay.
-Put a new M-14 crush washer on the oil drain bolt.
-And bolt it back into the oil pan under the car.
-If you have a torque wrench that fits under there this bolt torques at 29ft/lbs.
-I just give it a good hearty turn with the wrench since my torque wrench doesn't fit in this tight space.
-Remove the oil drain pan from under the car along with any other tools you might have left under there.
-Put the wheel back on the right front.
-Jack the car back up in the same spot, remove the jack stands and let the car back down.
-Before you do anything else torque down that right front wheel so you don't forget about it. The lug nuts torque to 94ft/lbs and make sure you go in a star pattern.
-Now we are going to add oil back in. I use a funnel for this. Some people just pour from the bottle.
-Remember, it's 4.5 quarts. I personally use Mobil1. I've used it since I was 16 years old in all of my cars. Mobil1 sponsors Formula1 racing so I'm okay with spending a little more on my oil if some of my money is going to a good cause. I usually just buy the 5 quart bottle and measure out 1/2 a quart that I save in another oil bottle.
-Don't forget to put the oil filler cap back on too.
-Get back in the car and start it up.
-While the new oil is cycling through the motor reset your oil life indicator in the MID.
-Press the SEL/RESET button until you get to the oil life readout.
-Once there hold the SEL/RESET button for about 10 seconds and it will ask you if you want to reset. (Yes, I was way past my oil change because I had a busy couple of weeks).
-Press the up arrow so it highlights RESET and the press the SEL/RESET button again to confirm.
-Your oil life should now say 100% again.
And you're all done.
I highly recommend taking the car for a spin to make sure all is okay. You would hate to find out on your way to work the next morning that you screwed something up. Better to find out now while you still have time to work it out. Once the car has been sitting for a bit you should also check underneath for any new oil spots just in case the filter or drain bolt were not tightened enough.
I hope that somebody on here that may be a bit timid about changing their own oil to give it a try. I personally hate putting my car in the hands of somebody else for any reason, much less once every 5,000 miles for routine maintenance I can easily do myself.
If anybody has any questions or wants to add something please feel free.
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04-02-2012, 06:46 AM
#3
The Honda 3.5 liter engine is in numerous Honda vehicles and just about every lube shop has oil filters that fit. The time and effort required to DIY is, in my opinion, just not worth it. You only save about $10 and after all is done you then have to dispose of the old oil. $39 at a lube shop is money well spent, if it saved a $100 then I would probably do it too.
Another approach that works very well is to give the "lube" coupon to your wife and ask her to swing by the lube hut on the way to the grocery store. The car comes back with an oil change and you didn't have to get your hands dirty either!
Another approach that works very well is to give the "lube" coupon to your wife and ask her to swing by the lube hut on the way to the grocery store. The car comes back with an oil change and you didn't have to get your hands dirty either!
04-02-2012, 07:23 AM
#4
Instructor
too many horror stories at jiffy lube type places for me
leave that oil filter just a little bit loose, or leave on the old gasket with the new and it is new engine time next month
they use the absolute cheapest oil and filters and then screw up your air filter/box (often unintentionally) while trying to sell you one.
leave that oil filter just a little bit loose, or leave on the old gasket with the new and it is new engine time next month
they use the absolute cheapest oil and filters and then screw up your air filter/box (often unintentionally) while trying to sell you one.
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djkurious (10-15-2013)
04-02-2012, 07:52 AM
#5
I bought my own oil, bought a Honda filter online and took it to the Acura dealer and they will do the oil change for $25. That saved me $15 over having them do the $39.95 oil change. Amortise the $40 over the 7500 miles between changes and I lost interest in getting my hands dirty.
04-02-2012, 07:52 AM
#6
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
DB you are right about the cost play, but to Steves point its more about the care and concern taken with the vehicle and ensuring nothing is broken or damaged that would cost more than the time saved.
On a side note, I tell people if they have a car that needs some major work or maybe has engine problems, Jiffy Lube is like the lottery because there is a pretty good chance they could be the reason it blows up and you get a new motor on their dime.
On a side note, I tell people if they have a car that needs some major work or maybe has engine problems, Jiffy Lube is like the lottery because there is a pretty good chance they could be the reason it blows up and you get a new motor on their dime.
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Imperial (08-22-2020)
04-02-2012, 08:40 AM
#7
DB you are right about the cost play, but to Steves point its more about the care and concern taken with the vehicle and ensuring nothing is broken or damaged that would cost more than the time saved.
On a side note, I tell people if they have a car that needs some major work or maybe has engine problems, Jiffy Lube is like the lottery because there is a pretty good chance they could be the reason it blows up and you get a new motor on their dime.
On a side note, I tell people if they have a car that needs some major work or maybe has engine problems, Jiffy Lube is like the lottery because there is a pretty good chance they could be the reason it blows up and you get a new motor on their dime.
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04-02-2012, 08:52 AM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Like I said before. The cost difference is negligible. I change my own oil so I know it's done right and my car doesn't suffer any damage at the hands of some incompetent and careless grease monkey.
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Imperial (08-22-2020)
04-02-2012, 10:48 AM
#10
Instructor
I actually like getting under there for a good look around.
Found a leaky shock on my other car a while back.
And some missing plastic fasteners under the wheel well on the Acura. Loose plastic shield.
Found a leaky shock on my other car a while back.
And some missing plastic fasteners under the wheel well on the Acura. Loose plastic shield.
04-02-2012, 01:17 PM
#11
Senior Moderator
The Acura dealer is neither close to me or open when I have time to take my car by. Read here why you should never let a Jiffy Lube, etc. work on your car. https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=839065
Thanks, BDogg. Although elementary to most, this is helpful to some. Now just do a tranny, transfer case, and rear diff, and we will have all the pointers for
s.
Thanks, BDogg. Although elementary to most, this is helpful to some. Now just do a tranny, transfer case, and rear diff, and we will have all the pointers for
s.
10-22-2012, 02:14 PM
#12
One FYI that can easily be overlooked is making sure when you take the old oil filter out, make sure the old rubber gasket comes out also. Sometimes it gets stuck inside and you don't want to put the new one oil filter over it. I almost had that problem when my new oil filter kept turning when tightening.
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10-22-2012, 09:26 PM
#13
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The Honda 3.5 liter engine is in numerous Honda vehicles and just about every lube shop has oil filters that fit. The time and effort required to DIY is, in my opinion, just not worth it. You only save about $10 and after all is done you then have to dispose of the old oil. $39 at a lube shop is money well spent, if it saved a $100 then I would probably do it too.
Another approach that works very well is to give the "lube" coupon to your wife and ask her to swing by the lube hut on the way to the grocery store. The car comes back with an oil change and you didn't have to get your hands dirty either!
Another approach that works very well is to give the "lube" coupon to your wife and ask her to swing by the lube hut on the way to the grocery store. The car comes back with an oil change and you didn't have to get your hands dirty either!
While the cost difference isn't much, let me tell you my story with the Honda dealer by my house. This happened to ME with my 1G RL back when I had it. This was winter 2011, when I first got it.
I'm one to do 95% of my own maintenance on my own vehicles, but at the time it was ice cold at the end of February, mid-terms where coming up (I was still a student then) and I had no time but I knew the car needed an oil change then, and the Honda dealer sent me a coupon, so I figured how bad can it be right? Honda dealer, so OEM filter, OEM crush gasket and some quality oil right? That's what you would think.
3 months later on my next oil change, I crept under there and practically broke my arm off loosening the drain bolt only to find blue threadseal all over it. The moron tech crossthreaded the bolts and was prob using a pneumatic gun for something that doesn't require anything more that a socket wrench. Boom, oil leak. Honda dealer solution? Threadseal.
I went back to them, but it was too late to contest since the oil was drained at this point. And I had the car apart in no shape to go anywhere. Dealer:1, Me:0. I was stuck having to rethread the oil pan. I was lucky enough to have my other car, but I still had to deal with the aggravition, and spend the time and money to repair something that never should have happened in the first place.
10-22-2012, 09:31 PM
#14
First off, let me start by saying that this DIY is very useful. My 2 cents: You don't really need to remove the passenger tire, just turn it to the right and jack the car up. Set it on jackstands. You'll have no problem reaching the filter. Believe me, that how I did it.
While the cost difference isn't much, let me tell you my story with the Honda dealer by my house. This happened to ME with my 1G RL back when I had it. This was winter 2011, when I first got it.
I'm one to do 95% of my own maintenance on my own vehicles, but at the time it was ice cold at the end of February, mid-terms where coming up (I was still a student then) and I had no time but I knew the car needed an oil change then, and the Honda dealer sent me a coupon, so I figured how bad can it be right? Honda dealer, so OEM filter, OEM crush gasket and some quality oil right? That's what you would think.
3 months later on my next oil change, I crept under there and practically broke my arm off loosening the drain bolt only to find blue threadseal all over it. The moron tech crossthreaded the bolts and was prob using a pneumatic gun for something that doesn't require anything more that a socket wrench. Boom, oil leak. Honda dealer solution? Threadseal.
I went back to them, but it was too late to contest since the oil was drained at this point. And I had the car apart in no shape to go anywhere. Dealer:1, Me:0. I was stuck having to rethread the oil pan. I was lucky enough to have my other car, but I still had to deal with the aggravition, and spend the time and money to repair something that never should have happened in the first place.
While the cost difference isn't much, let me tell you my story with the Honda dealer by my house. This happened to ME with my 1G RL back when I had it. This was winter 2011, when I first got it.
I'm one to do 95% of my own maintenance on my own vehicles, but at the time it was ice cold at the end of February, mid-terms where coming up (I was still a student then) and I had no time but I knew the car needed an oil change then, and the Honda dealer sent me a coupon, so I figured how bad can it be right? Honda dealer, so OEM filter, OEM crush gasket and some quality oil right? That's what you would think.
3 months later on my next oil change, I crept under there and practically broke my arm off loosening the drain bolt only to find blue threadseal all over it. The moron tech crossthreaded the bolts and was prob using a pneumatic gun for something that doesn't require anything more that a socket wrench. Boom, oil leak. Honda dealer solution? Threadseal.
I went back to them, but it was too late to contest since the oil was drained at this point. And I had the car apart in no shape to go anywhere. Dealer:1, Me:0. I was stuck having to rethread the oil pan. I was lucky enough to have my other car, but I still had to deal with the aggravition, and spend the time and money to repair something that never should have happened in the first place.
10-22-2012, 09:36 PM
#15
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It's honestly not that bad with the car raised on jack stands and the wheel all the way to the right, but to each his own right? As for the mess, yes, it's a mess. Having the wheel off doesn't make it much easier to contain. I have a second oil drain pan I place under the filter when I take it off.
10-22-2012, 09:42 PM
#16
It's honestly not that bad with the car raised on jack stands and the wheel all the way to the right, but to each his own right? As for the mess, yes, it's a mess. Having the wheel off doesn't make it much easier to contain. I have a second oil drain pan I place under the filter when I take it off.
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projektvertx (10-22-2012)
10-22-2012, 09:44 PM
#17
Instructor
Nothing beats 40 bucks for an oil change,free coffee lol and a comp carwash at the dealer.I know they dont use the best oil,but i just do it more often and it's all good.
BTW,is it safe to switch to synthetic after 85k miles?The service advisor says it will cause leaking since it's thinner and the engine seals and gaskets are used to thicker oil.
BTW,is it safe to switch to synthetic after 85k miles?The service advisor says it will cause leaking since it's thinner and the engine seals and gaskets are used to thicker oil.
10-22-2012, 09:49 PM
#18
Nothing beats 40 bucks for an oil change,free coffee lol and a comp carwash at the dealer.I know they dont use the best oil,but i just do it more often and it's all good.
BTW,is it safe to switch to synthetic after 85k miles?The service advisor says it will cause leaking since it's thinner and the engine seals and gaskets are used to thicker oil.
BTW,is it safe to switch to synthetic after 85k miles?The service advisor says it will cause leaking since it's thinner and the engine seals and gaskets are used to thicker oil.
Also read projeks post about about the service at the dealer. I would caution unless you really trust your service adviser.
Last edited by Matt W; 10-22-2012 at 09:51 PM.
10-22-2012, 09:55 PM
#19
10-22-2012, 10:18 PM
#20
Instructor
Lol your service advisor is a dumbass then and I would avoid him like the plague. The SAE Viscosity rating determines what the thickness/thinness of the oil is. It doesn't matter if its synthetic or straight oil.
Also read projeks post about about the service at the dealer. I would caution unless you really trust your service adviser.
Also read projeks post about about the service at the dealer. I would caution unless you really trust your service adviser.
OP,nice DIY,but that is the dirtiest,rustiest oil filter i have ever seen lol!!Guess is a result of those salty sandy northern winters.
10-22-2012, 10:33 PM
#21
Yes you will be fine. I suggest changing your oil to cheap autozone synthetic and add some seafoam at 1 ½ ounces per quart of oil. This will help break down any of the sludge and deposits created by using conventional engine oil. Run this for 100-200 miles then change the oil to whatever synthetic engine oil you use. I use Amsoil Synthetic but I might switch back to mobile 1. It depends on the research I do.
10-22-2012, 11:56 PM
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
10-23-2012, 08:40 AM
#23
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
just a few thoughts:
1. That oil filter is a mess, hahaha. It would drive me crazy if my car looked like that.
2. Full synthetic oils will occasionally find leaks because it is designed to seep into metals and gaskets.
Will your car start leaking? Probably not, but the service writer was smart to mention it.
3. Synthetic oil, IMO, is great for harsh applications and long durations between changes. If you are following the MID and your car is in good shape conventional oils will be just fine.
1. That oil filter is a mess, hahaha. It would drive me crazy if my car looked like that.
2. Full synthetic oils will occasionally find leaks because it is designed to seep into metals and gaskets.
Will your car start leaking? Probably not, but the service writer was smart to mention it.
3. Synthetic oil, IMO, is great for harsh applications and long durations between changes. If you are following the MID and your car is in good shape conventional oils will be just fine.
10-23-2012, 01:51 PM
#24
Senior Moderator
Nothing wrong with switching to synthetic or switching back at any point. However, unless you are regularly driving in 100+ or sub-zero degree temps, a quality conventional will cover you just as well.
You should not expect any noticable change between the two types.
You should not expect any noticable change between the two types.
11-29-2012, 12:07 PM
#26
The products today are so revolutionary that I dont even have to get under the car to change the oil myself. I use an oil extractor which is a device that uses pressure to suck the oil from the engine by inserting a tube down the dip stick tube. Then due to the fact that the filter is located behind the passenger front wheel I simply reach in and change the filter.
As far as getting it done from a lube shop goes you are taking a big risk. My buddy got his oil changed in his car last week at Sears Auto Center and due to the fact that they refill the oil from a 50 gallon drum 9 times out of 10 they over fill it and that is what happened to him. My cousin had his oil changed at Jiffy lube last year and they forgot to tighten the pan bolt and as he drove away the bolt popped out and he lost all of his oil right in their driveway. Those are good enough reasons to change your own oil.
As far as getting it done from a lube shop goes you are taking a big risk. My buddy got his oil changed in his car last week at Sears Auto Center and due to the fact that they refill the oil from a 50 gallon drum 9 times out of 10 they over fill it and that is what happened to him. My cousin had his oil changed at Jiffy lube last year and they forgot to tighten the pan bolt and as he drove away the bolt popped out and he lost all of his oil right in their driveway. Those are good enough reasons to change your own oil.
Last edited by 06RL/NBP; 11-29-2012 at 12:20 PM.
08-22-2020, 03:00 AM
#27
This is an old post but does provide some good information!
I was at the Acura dealer today and tried to get 2010 Acura RL and we should finish the deal tomorrow. I do see 5w-20 oil is written on the oil cap, but there is no mention if it is conventional, synthetic blend or full synthetic?
1) My theory is that when Acura does oil change(for above RL) it uses "synthetic blend", am I correct?
2) Does Acura offer full synthetic at their service center?
3) By having full synthetic, will the maintenance minder wait longer before notifying about the oil change compared to synthetic blend/conventional oil? According to CarFax, the owner changed oil every 7,500K miles for almost 10 years that he/she owned the car.
I was at the Acura dealer today and tried to get 2010 Acura RL and we should finish the deal tomorrow. I do see 5w-20 oil is written on the oil cap, but there is no mention if it is conventional, synthetic blend or full synthetic?
1) My theory is that when Acura does oil change(for above RL) it uses "synthetic blend", am I correct?
2) Does Acura offer full synthetic at their service center?
3) By having full synthetic, will the maintenance minder wait longer before notifying about the oil change compared to synthetic blend/conventional oil? According to CarFax, the owner changed oil every 7,500K miles for almost 10 years that he/she owned the car.
08-22-2020, 05:31 AM
#28
almost all oil now-a-days are blends...unless stated "conventional", it's going to be a blend.
and no; the car does not know the difference between conventional, blend, full synthetic.
the car has an algorithm based off of driving conditions; how many start ups, where in the rev range (ie;use of higher rev's will decrease the counter faster), etc, etc, etc.
so if driving city, the car knows this is a lot harder on the engine than steady state highway driving. and will ask you to change the oil in a shorter duration than if you did all highway miles...(I find my MID will ask me to change every 6k-7k miles...with the type of oil i use, full synthetic, I can def. let it stay in longer, if i choose to. )
you can call or talk to the dealer today; and ask if they do a full synthetic....
and no; the car does not know the difference between conventional, blend, full synthetic.
the car has an algorithm based off of driving conditions; how many start ups, where in the rev range (ie;use of higher rev's will decrease the counter faster), etc, etc, etc.
so if driving city, the car knows this is a lot harder on the engine than steady state highway driving. and will ask you to change the oil in a shorter duration than if you did all highway miles...(I find my MID will ask me to change every 6k-7k miles...with the type of oil i use, full synthetic, I can def. let it stay in longer, if i choose to. )
you can call or talk to the dealer today; and ask if they do a full synthetic....
Last edited by justnspace; 08-22-2020 at 05:34 AM.
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projektvertx (08-24-2020)
08-22-2020, 07:02 PM
#29
Fk no!TheyldstroyEvrthing
This is an old post but does provide some good information!
I was at the Acura dealer today and tried to get 2010 Acura RL and we should finish the deal tomorrow. I do see 5w-20 oil is written on the oil cap, but there is no mention if it is conventional, synthetic blend or full synthetic?
1) My theory is that when Acura does oil change(for above RL) it uses "synthetic blend", am I correct?
2) Does Acura offer full synthetic at their service center?
3) By having full synthetic, will the maintenance minder wait longer before notifying about the oil change compared to synthetic blend/conventional oil? According to CarFax, the owner changed oil every 7,500K miles for almost 10 years that he/she owned the car.
I was at the Acura dealer today and tried to get 2010 Acura RL and we should finish the deal tomorrow. I do see 5w-20 oil is written on the oil cap, but there is no mention if it is conventional, synthetic blend or full synthetic?
1) My theory is that when Acura does oil change(for above RL) it uses "synthetic blend", am I correct?
2) Does Acura offer full synthetic at their service center?
3) By having full synthetic, will the maintenance minder wait longer before notifying about the oil change compared to synthetic blend/conventional oil? According to CarFax, the owner changed oil every 7,500K miles for almost 10 years that he/she owned the car.
You can ask them what they ot in there if someone services there. I personally prefer to put regular one.
For the rest, what he ^ said .
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Imperial (08-22-2020)
12-21-2020, 02:20 AM
#30
Does anyone know if 64mm 14 flute filter wrench would work for the RL? I just don't know the size of the oil filter as I haven't done oil change on my "new to me" RL
Here is an example filter wrench: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283808990593?ul_noapp=true
Here is an example filter wrench: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283808990593?ul_noapp=true
12-21-2020, 11:09 AM
#31
Does anyone know if 64mm 14 flute filter wrench would work for the RL? I just don't know the size of the oil filter as I haven't done oil change on my "new to me" RL
Here is an example filter wrench: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283808990593?ul_noapp=true
Here is an example filter wrench: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283808990593?ul_noapp=true
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Imperial (12-21-2020)
01-11-2021, 02:44 PM
#32
I drove 3k in about 5 months and oil life is at 50%. My guess is that at another 3 months, MID might notify me of 15 oil life. So the total would be 8 months and by mileage it could be 2k or less. If I use a better oil filter Mobile 1 Extended Perf or Purolator One, can I change filter every other oil change? On the same filter: 5k/8 months, then another 5k/8month. Anyone tried this?
01-11-2021, 05:54 PM
#33
I drove 3k in about 5 months and oil life is at 50%. My guess is that at another 3 months, MID might notify me of 15 oil life. So the total would be 8 months and by mileage it could be 2k or less. If I use a better oil filter Mobile 1 Extended Perf or Purolator One, can I change filter every other oil change? On the same filter: 5k/8 months, then another 5k/8month. Anyone tried this?
01-12-2021, 12:20 AM
#34
Anyone thinks that A02 Honda filters are a good filter for 5k miles?
01-12-2021, 04:32 AM
#35
Racer
Seriously? OK, let's have a show of hands from all those who have had a verified engine failure solely due to a bad oil filter.
C'mon folks.....it's an oil filter!!
C'mon folks.....it's an oil filter!!
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Imperial (01-12-2021)
01-12-2021, 12:35 PM
#36
It's not that oil filter is bad, it's about changing it every oil change. Because some people will keep the old filter and change the oil alone. IMO if you are going to change the oil why not change the filter as well. For me personally, it's not worth it to reuse the old filter to save some bucks. On top of that if you work on your own car you are already saving money by not paying someone else to do it. As far as OCI are concerned. I never go above 5-6k miles regardless of oil type.
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Imperial (01-12-2021)
01-12-2021, 12:37 PM
#37
I use wix xp or fram ultra. Blue honda oil filter is probably made by fram.
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Imperial (01-12-2021)
01-12-2021, 03:33 PM
#38
It's not that oil filter is bad, it's about changing it every oil change. Because some people will keep the old filter and change the oil alone. IMO if you are going to change the oil why not change the filter as well. For me personally, it's not worth it to reuse the old filter to save some bucks. On top of that if you work on your own car you are already saving money by not paying someone else to do it. As far as OCI are concerned. I never go above 5-6k miles regardless of oil type.
I just saw some filters advertised 10/15K miles and just wanted to ask you guys.
I have noticed that closer to 3k miles, my car wanted a bit more oil and I have added almost 1/2 of a quart of oil which should be good till another 2k miles. Maybe you would know, if my car used Acura's synthetic blend oil for a long time and I want to switch to full synthetic, won't it start burning more oil? I just think switching to full synthetic will be better for my city driving and will allow me to do 5k oil change intervals(which should be in-line with MID)
01-13-2021, 04:22 AM
#39
Racer
It's not that oil filter is bad, it's about changing it every oil change. Because some people will keep the old filter and change the oil alone. IMO if you are going to change the oil why not change the filter as well. For me personally, it's not worth it to reuse the old filter to save some bucks. On top of that if you work on your own car you are already saving money by not paying someone else to do it. As far as OCI are concerned. I never go above 5-6k miles regardless of oil type.
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projektvertx (01-13-2021)
01-13-2021, 07:38 AM
#40
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Agreed, just buy a quality filter, change it every oil change and be on your way. I personally use OE filters because they cost the same as aftermarket when I buy in bulk. It helps that I have two vehicles that use the same filters.