Battery Dead, Cannot Unlock Car
 

After leaving the car parked for a week the battery is dead because the trunk was accidentally left open (trunk light drainage?) Car won't unlock so do I have to call Acura TLC? I am not the first owner of this car and didn't buy it from an Acura dealer. What are my options?

Thanks in advance.

You should have a key in the remote.

Is there an actual keyhole on the door handle? If so how do I access it without scratching anything? It would make life a lot easier if this is so.

Yup
 

Yeah there is actually. It's on the handle, you just don't see it since you never use it.

In fact, I believe there's an honest to goodness key turning ignition in the car too. I have no idea where, I've never looked.

That's good to know. I knew there would be a fail safe manual key operation.

BTW, can the car be jumped like any other car?

I assume so, but now that you have access to the owner's manual, check there first.

Big problem. The manual key doesn't unlock the car because it uses power too! Now this is beginning to become troublesome. Whose idea was it at Honda to design this?

Will TLC cover me even though I'm not the first owner?

Are you saying the "key" in the fob doesn't unlock the doors? That is very strange, as I had a dead battery a few weeks back, and recalling being able open the door manually with the key (battery completely drain).


Also, when your able to unlock the doors and get acces to the hood. The "jump start" should be done the same manner as any other automobile. However, you might have to input the nav code/radio code afterward.

Yes. The physical key in the fob doesn't open the door. It turns both ways but won't unlock. Looks like I have to get the door opened using a tool?

You say you are not the original owner?

I would suspect the Fob you have is not the original fob and the key inside is not for your RL. Perhaps the dealer got another Fob to resell the car, but did not replace the key inside with a newly cut one?

Do you have the other Fob? Try that key and see if it works. The door should unlock manually with the key, no power needed.

Unfortunately I have only this one fob. Is there a safe way to pry open the door without damaging the rubber surrounds? I've seen tow companies use pumps to force open a crease. Is that a safe method? If so, where can I get one of those tools?

I would not risk damaging the car unless you must get into it now.

I would contact the dealer that sold you the car (and perhaps incorrect key). They have tools to open the car and can charhe the battery and remedy this situation.

If in fact you have an incorrect key, they BETTER make good on rectifying your situation.

I still don't understand how the fob "key" turns the lock but doesn't manually open it?


Unless your in a major pickle, I wouldn't suggest using a tool to "jimmy lock" open the RL, as it could seriously damage to the door (extremely costly). I believe Acura Care would take care of the tow to the dealership, plus the if the battery crapped out, the 100-month Acura warranty should cover a new or prorated replacement.

^^^

WTF?

Tampa your input is always appreciated. However, shouldn't you be skinny dipping with some hawt Norwegian honey??? I see you really have your priority straight! :whyme:

It's strange. But the key turns both ways but the lock doesn't make a click and the door won't open. Maybe it isn't the original key.

I don't like the idea of prying open a door but it seems like a necessity as Acura roadside assistance is expired and the dealer (small import dealership) is in another state. Either I get one of those air pump wedge tools or pay Acura huge $$ to do the same?

....in London now.

http://www.officerstore.com/store/pr...sibility_blue/

Will that air wedge damage the door frame? I don't think the door's that brittle.

The members of this board are very helpful. However, I doubt that you'll find many who are willing to post instructions on how to defeat the factory security system in a public forum like this. If you're really in a bind, I suggest you contact the nearest dealer or licensed locksmith.

Keep us up to date, for this is VERY odd.

Has the car ever been damaged?

This afternoon after trying one last time the the unfathomable quandary that is the lock and key mechanism. Epiphany! A click in the door and and all my worries now seem so evanescent. I exhale having so timely avoided adding that air wedge lockout set to my cart. The only thing I want between that door and the inside of the car is me. Apparently, the lock needs to be coerced into submission; a mere turning is insufficient, even to the point of fearing breakage.


The battery after soaking in electrons at Autozone was pronounced dead. Its replacement Duralast is not a snug fit to say the least which meant the battery cover had to retire. However the RL now cranks with gusto thanks to the bigger wattage.

Thanks everyone on this board for your diligent help. Your time is much appreciated.

lols.....
funny problem if i might add

:bounce:

Glad everything worked out (though I would have checked with the Acura warranty before replacing the battery with a aftermarket)!

Next time I must clarify! Insert key fob in key hole, turn key then pull door handles! :tomato:

I had a similar issue with a dead battery. Valet parking douchebags left the car on (I knew I should have gone to check it after they parked). The guy charged it up, but my trunk wouldn't work, my settings were gone and my Nav wasn't working. After I got the codes in for the radio I finally just said "screw it" and drove home.

Funny thing is, on the way home it suddenly linked and everything came back after another restart. Not sure what happened, but it seems OK now.

Today though, my steering wheel is clicking before it completely moves forward. I called Acura and I still have a couple of months on my battery warranty. I'll definitely bring it in for a test/replacement.

I did, or at least I thought. The force is strong with this lock.

Let's say I hypothetically bought that air wedge and operated on the door. Do you think it could have caused damage? I've seen this procedure done to my 99 RL, but the door wasn't completely shut.

Anyway, I'm thinking about returning the Duralast because of its 2 bulges that prevents proper placement of the terminal box and battery cover.

most definitely... bc the wedge thing is kind of bending the hinges that hold the door in place, so you can somewhat reach in to open the door with a tool.

but... actually a locksmith should be able to pick it open.

I just tried this...
 

I know this is a really old forum, but had to let you all know this just happened to me on my 2006 MDX and Intried the trick above and it worked. Thanks everyone...wherever you are 9 years later.

Same thing on 2013 RDX
 

Hi there. How did you get lock to respond the 2nd time? I am having the exact same issue with my wife's 2013 RDX. It's been parked for a few weeks due the stay home order. I went out to unlock it to put it on a trickle charger, no response from the key fob. I tried both blade keys in the driver's door keyhole, turned either way.. and no nothing. It almost feels like the Acura lock mechanism is power assisted somehow. My 2014 Odyssey has a key fob as well but the when using the blade key to unlock at the drivers door, you feel the mechanical actuation of the lock.

Any ideas would be much appreciated. Otherwise I'll be calling AAA on Sunday to get it open.

UPDATE. I had AAA unlock the RDX and replaced the vehicle battery but still had the same result with the blade key. I came across a similar post on an MDX forum:

https://www.mdxers.org/threads/emerg...e-door.162825/

However in, my case. The driver's door was repaired by a body shop a couple years ago for a parking lot ding. I reached out to the shop earlier this week and they asked me to bring the vehicle in. They discovered that the pin from lock cylinder that should align and engage the lock mechanism was mis-aligned when the door was likely put back together after the repair. They fixed that the this second time. All good now.