AFS, Emissions, and Transmission?
07-07-2012, 01:39 PM
#1
AFS, Emissions, and Transmission?
I have a 2007 RL tech with 51,000 miles, bought used 2 years ago.
It's 100 degrees in nyc today and I had to take the car out for an errand. After 5 minutes of driving, all of sudden the AFS light came on, the Emissions check engine light came on, and the Transmission message came on ALL AT THE SAME TIME. Well right after one another. Could this be because of the extreme hot weather?
Thanks for your help
It's 100 degrees in nyc today and I had to take the car out for an errand. After 5 minutes of driving, all of sudden the AFS light came on, the Emissions check engine light came on, and the Transmission message came on ALL AT THE SAME TIME. Well right after one another. Could this be because of the extreme hot weather?
Thanks for your help
07-07-2012, 02:33 PM
#2
Senior Moderator
No; it's because you have a dying battery. I drive my RL in 111 degrees with no dash lights.
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aznne0 (07-11-2012)
07-07-2012, 02:46 PM
#3
07-07-2012, 05:14 PM
#4
Senior Moderator
One can't be for sure with such things until the solution is found, but 90% of these threads end with a new battery. The age of a battery can have no bearing on its performance if it has a bad cell. The fact that it is young should help you in getting a new one for free. If you bought it at an auto shop, they should be able to test it and determine if it has a bad cell. Unfortunately, the RL is super sensitive to a "low" battery, and the shop may not think anything is wrong with it. Just explain the situation.
07-07-2012, 09:00 PM
#5
One can't be for sure with such things until the solution is found, but 90% of these threads end with a new battery. The age of a battery can have no bearing on its performance if it has a bad cell. The fact that it is young should help you in getting a new one for free. If you bought it at an auto shop, they should be able to test it and determine if it has a bad cell. Unfortunately, the RL is super sensitive to a "low" battery, and the shop may not think anything is wrong with it. Just explain the situation.
Thanks for your advice. Just went to drive the car again, the check emission light is gone and the AFS light is gone. But only the right side headlight moves now.
07-07-2012, 09:45 PM
#6
Senior Moderator
On startup or when driving? Do your headlights turn off when the engine is cranking?
07-08-2012, 12:36 AM
#7
Well when start up... only the right headlight moves. While driving driving.. only the right headlight moves as well. You think if i disconnect the battery and connect it back, everything will reset?
I'm not getting the error message with the Transmission, ASF, and Emissions anymore... but i feel likke the probs are still there? The car doesn't drive any different to me lol
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chefmatt (12-31-2017)
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07-08-2012, 02:14 PM
#9
Senior Moderator
Only the right headlight turns upon startup. That is a calibration routine. Only the right headlight turns when stopped b/c the left would be pointing into oncoming traffic if you were about to make a left turn from a stop. That all sounds normal.
My question was do the lights turn off when the engine is cranking? One of the first signs of a weak battery is that the headlights will turn off while your are starting the car. Obviously, they would have to be on before you started to crank in order to know.
The "problems" aren't real. They are a manifestation of your sensors getting low voltage. You can drive the car until it won't start any more, but you will likely encounter more false "warnings".
My question was do the lights turn off when the engine is cranking? One of the first signs of a weak battery is that the headlights will turn off while your are starting the car. Obviously, they would have to be on before you started to crank in order to know.
The "problems" aren't real. They are a manifestation of your sensors getting low voltage. You can drive the car until it won't start any more, but you will likely encounter more false "warnings".
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nickelrw87 (09-19-2018)
07-11-2012, 03:21 PM
#10
Only the right headlight turns upon startup. That is a calibration routine. Only the right headlight turns when stopped b/c the left would be pointing into oncoming traffic if you were about to make a left turn from a stop. That all sounds normal.
My question was do the lights turn off when the engine is cranking? One of the first signs of a weak battery is that the headlights will turn off while your are starting the car. Obviously, they would have to be on before you started to crank in order to know.
The "problems" aren't real. They are a manifestation of your sensors getting low voltage. You can drive the car until it won't start any more, but you will likely encounter more false "warnings".
My question was do the lights turn off when the engine is cranking? One of the first signs of a weak battery is that the headlights will turn off while your are starting the car. Obviously, they would have to be on before you started to crank in order to know.
The "problems" aren't real. They are a manifestation of your sensors getting low voltage. You can drive the car until it won't start any more, but you will likely encounter more false "warnings".
So you're saying the left light only turns when making a left turn. Would it turn if i turn my steering wheel to the left while it's parked?
Thanks again for your help
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chefmatt (12-31-2017)
07-11-2012, 04:00 PM
#11
Senior Moderator
No. That's to avoid pointing the light into the on coming traffic of the road you are about to turn onto.
It's possible something may have drained your battery a little, and after a drive it recharged.
It's possible something may have drained your battery a little, and after a drive it recharged.
08-23-2013, 10:54 PM
#13
Drifting
Most likely. Have your battery checked first since that is the cheapest diagnosis and solution. Most auto parts stores like Auto Zone, Advance Auto and Checkers/O'Reilly will check your battery for free.
10-03-2013, 04:36 PM
#14
Check emission, transmission, AFS, engine lights!
So, I read through all on this forum that's ever been raised about these lights coming up. Going to the specialist garage tomorrow (not the dealer). He said he's going to charge a 99$ no matter what. That's life!
First step: Check battery and wires
Second step: That switch between the gearbox and armrest
Third step: EGR valve
If nothing works..?
I am thinking it's the battery, but I'm surprised because just about a month ago when I got my vehicle thoroughly inspected by this same specialist, he said the battery was almost like new.
The reasons I think it's the battery:
1. The left/right side mirrors dont tilt downwards any more like they used to, when engaging the gear in REVERSE.
2. The adaptive lights have stopped turning to the directions of the steering wheel like it used to.
Any thoughts?
It's an 06 RL with 150k miles, btw.
Thanks
First step: Check battery and wires
Second step: That switch between the gearbox and armrest
Third step: EGR valve
If nothing works..?
I am thinking it's the battery, but I'm surprised because just about a month ago when I got my vehicle thoroughly inspected by this same specialist, he said the battery was almost like new.
The reasons I think it's the battery:
1. The left/right side mirrors dont tilt downwards any more like they used to, when engaging the gear in REVERSE.
2. The adaptive lights have stopped turning to the directions of the steering wheel like it used to.
Any thoughts?
It's an 06 RL with 150k miles, btw.
Thanks
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HEAVY_RL (10-03-2013)
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10-04-2013, 02:15 PM
#16
The tech inspected the battery, alternator, range positioning switch.. and they all seem good.
I've asked him to check the O2 sensor but he says thats not necessary since there are no error codes associated to that.
Plus, the EGR valve is fine too!
I'm confused what to do next, and I think so is he..
10-04-2013, 02:23 PM
#17
Senior Moderator
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HEAVY_RL (10-04-2013)
10-04-2013, 05:53 PM
#18
You should have spent that $100 at the dealer, at least the HDS can access all the history codes that will more than likely be covered under that 1st hour of diag...Never would recommend anyone to start checking any one component first when the check emissions system comes on and you don't even know which code is stored...There are so many different components that can trigger "check emissions system"...Checking the EGR valve or 02 sensor(btw there are 2 oxygen sensors and 2 air fuel sensors) is not a bad idea if you indeed have a code that corresponds....good luck...this is not like diagnosing a 95 civic.
07-02-2015, 01:28 AM
#20
9th Gear
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My Acura Rl 2005 shows check transimission, AFS and the D blinks
I have my acura rl 2005 for few years. I suddenly noticed when I try accelerating over a particular peed limit The car suddenly hesistates and shows check transmission, AFS and the D sign on my gear keeps blinking. What could possibly be going wrong???
07-02-2015, 02:31 PM
#21
Senior Moderator
A flashing "D" in a Honda is typically related to the speed sensor in the transmission. It happened twice to me in Legend #1 when my transmission mounts broke. I have a feeling the dealer with an HDS is your best route for diagnosis. Expect a ~$100 diagnosis fee. If you choose to have them repair, that money should go toward the repair. However, it may be cheaper to have an independent mechanic do the work after the diagnose.
07-04-2015, 11:14 PM
#23
Senior Moderator
Did you not read my response? If "your mechanic" doesn't know what a blinking "D" indicates, then you need to take it to someone else. That signal has a specific meaning, and I'm 99% sure it's not injectors. A dealer can tell you what is wrong with your car. I think its the speed sensor in your transmission, but what does that really help?
09-20-2015, 12:59 PM
#26
Senior Moderator
A blinking "D" in a Honda points to a sensor failure in the transmission. Probably the speed sensor, but that is a guess. An independent shop may be able to diagnose, but your best bet is a dealer. There is no real reason a Honda dealer wouldn't be able to diagnose which would save you a few bucks.
09-23-2015, 11:19 PM
#27
My 2011 did the same thing on a daily basis '' Check transmission, check afs'', etc, replaced the battery as many suggested but was not a real fix,
gave up trying and took into Acura dealer who replaced the SAS and AFS sensors 3 weeks ago and so far nothing.
There is a TSB from Acura also covering these false alarms. The tech at the dealer told me that my RL was the first Acura at their dealership to generate these false errors which they have never witness before on any Acura auto. However, the dealer agreed to follow the TSB replacing the SAS.
AcuraCare fully covered these repairs.
Even if your warranty is expired Acura may fix for a reduced price.
gave up trying and took into Acura dealer who replaced the SAS and AFS sensors 3 weeks ago and so far nothing.
There is a TSB from Acura also covering these false alarms. The tech at the dealer told me that my RL was the first Acura at their dealership to generate these false errors which they have never witness before on any Acura auto. However, the dealer agreed to follow the TSB replacing the SAS.
AcuraCare fully covered these repairs.
Even if your warranty is expired Acura may fix for a reduced price.
Last edited by TERRY A KHAN; 09-23-2015 at 11:27 PM.
12-07-2015, 04:09 PM
#28
I think these codes are all too common and my guess is a direct relation to each other via Bcan network loss communications.
This can system is not like newer fcan networks that communicate in reverse. So an intermittent fault in the range switch (p1717) can cause a loss of communication to the other modules (such as afs module) and as a result after several loss communication codes, the afs light is triggered...
This can system is not like newer fcan networks that communicate in reverse. So an intermittent fault in the range switch (p1717) can cause a loss of communication to the other modules (such as afs module) and as a result after several loss communication codes, the afs light is triggered...
12-09-2015, 05:02 PM
#29
This a follow up since 3 months have passed since my SAS and AFS sensors have been replaced by my Acura dealer.
None of these errors have appeared again.
These false errors would appear on a daily basis.
None of these errors have appeared again.
These false errors would appear on a daily basis.
01-04-2016, 03:34 PM
#31
2nd Gear
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This is reposted from another user. I have followed the instructions and replaced only this part: part 33146-SJA-003, which did the job without replacing the entire AFS module. No more blinking AFS
Recently, my beloved '05 RL began displaying that annoying AFS Failure message with the equally annoying flashing light. At first, the system could be reset by turning the car off then back on again; however, ultimately, it was continuous. I read numerous posts here on the forum and simply wanted to share my experience with others to help them resolve this matter quickly and efficiently.
There are a few posts discussing the actual computer/in-cabin module as failing. This to me didn't seem to add up (in my situation). A few had mentioned that the AFS stroke sensor attached to the rear driver's side shock was the culprit. When I took my wheel off, I could see that this part was horribly rusted (I'm in MN so we see a fair amount of salt). I figured this had to be the culprit. I ordered the part 33146-SJA-003 fromwww.oemacuraparts.com for a bit over $170.
To replace the part, I will outline the basics in case someone wants to consider tackling the task on their own.
1) Remove driver's side rear wheel
2) Use a 10mm socket to remove the two upper bolts attached to the sensor.
3) Use the 10mm socket to remove the lower bolt attached to the shock.
4) There is no need to adjust the stroke sensor that is sent to you. It appears that it is adjusted from the factory, for I simply replaced it and it worked just fine.
5) Disconnect the cable. There is a small clip attached to the bottom of the sensor securing the cable that is easiest to remove after you have removed the two bolts & single nut. I had a bit of difficulty removing the connector so be patient.
6) After you remove the connector, look inside the connector (the part still attached to the car). You will need to scrape away the corrosion from the terminals. I used a tiny jewelers screwdriver to scrape the terminals.
7) I reconnected the cable and secured the wire to the bottom of the sensor
8) Re-used the two bolts & nut to re-install the sensor.
9) Re-install the tire.
10) Start the car and enjoy the absence of the annoying warning light.
I did disassemble the sensor to see if it really had failed and if so what had failed. It appears that the housing on the original sensor wasn't completely waterproof. Some of the inner components were nearly completely corroded. In fact, when I re-assembled the sensor and noted that it truly wasn't sealed well. I presume the gaskets had worn out over time and ultimately let water into the sensor's inner workings.
I hope this information helps others.
Recently, my beloved '05 RL began displaying that annoying AFS Failure message with the equally annoying flashing light. At first, the system could be reset by turning the car off then back on again; however, ultimately, it was continuous. I read numerous posts here on the forum and simply wanted to share my experience with others to help them resolve this matter quickly and efficiently.
There are a few posts discussing the actual computer/in-cabin module as failing. This to me didn't seem to add up (in my situation). A few had mentioned that the AFS stroke sensor attached to the rear driver's side shock was the culprit. When I took my wheel off, I could see that this part was horribly rusted (I'm in MN so we see a fair amount of salt). I figured this had to be the culprit. I ordered the part 33146-SJA-003 fromwww.oemacuraparts.com for a bit over $170.
To replace the part, I will outline the basics in case someone wants to consider tackling the task on their own.
1) Remove driver's side rear wheel
2) Use a 10mm socket to remove the two upper bolts attached to the sensor.
3) Use the 10mm socket to remove the lower bolt attached to the shock.
4) There is no need to adjust the stroke sensor that is sent to you. It appears that it is adjusted from the factory, for I simply replaced it and it worked just fine.
5) Disconnect the cable. There is a small clip attached to the bottom of the sensor securing the cable that is easiest to remove after you have removed the two bolts & single nut. I had a bit of difficulty removing the connector so be patient.
6) After you remove the connector, look inside the connector (the part still attached to the car). You will need to scrape away the corrosion from the terminals. I used a tiny jewelers screwdriver to scrape the terminals.
7) I reconnected the cable and secured the wire to the bottom of the sensor
8) Re-used the two bolts & nut to re-install the sensor.
9) Re-install the tire.
10) Start the car and enjoy the absence of the annoying warning light.
I did disassemble the sensor to see if it really had failed and if so what had failed. It appears that the housing on the original sensor wasn't completely waterproof. Some of the inner components were nearly completely corroded. In fact, when I re-assembled the sensor and noted that it truly wasn't sealed well. I presume the gaskets had worn out over time and ultimately let water into the sensor's inner workings.
I hope this information helps others.
01-05-2016, 10:23 AM
#32
Senior Moderator
01-09-2016, 11:10 AM
#33
9th Gear
Same exact thing happened to me a few days ago. I got code P0842 as well. I'm trying to find the correct part to replace. Can anyone confirm it's W0133-1918259?
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