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Ok, so I have done a ton of diagnostic testing prior to posting. Recently, I have developed a rattle that has been traced to the braking system. Brakes function perfectly, other than the rattle.
I believed that the pads were loose and clunking around inside the caliper. I tried to "tighten them down" as some suggested by pinching the metal brackets on the rear, re-greasing pins, etc.
I brought it in for some tires today and this new mechanic told me something I had not considered. The toes of the front brake pads are held snug by some metal pads in the caliper. I attached a picture that shows the metal tabs that I am talking about. To be clear, these are not my calipers, but ones that show how they are supposed to look.
In my calipers, those have worn down to very little material and in some cases, no material. He thinks that is what is causing my rattle.
After some additional research, it does not look like that piece alone is replaceable, but I would need to replace the entire caliper.
See samples above.. the mechanic saying it's not either tells me i might not know something specific to the RL or the mechanic is trying to upsell you unecessarily on calipers and is being purposefully deceitful..
See samples above.. the mechanic saying it's not either tells me i might not know something specific to the RL or the mechanic is trying to upsell you unecessarily on calipers and is being purposefully deceitful..
The pads are fine and in great condition. It is the metal tabs on the caliper that the brake pad toes ride on. According to him, they hold the brake pad in tight. I could not find anything in your linked window that is what I am talking about.
See samples above.. the mechanic saying it's not either tells me i might not know something specific to the RL or the mechanic is trying to upsell you unecessarily on calipers and is being purposefully deceitful..
I think he's talking about the metal shims upon which the pads rest, they are bolted to the caliper with an Allen head screw. I had the same issue where the part of the shim broke and pad was loose. I put it back with some jb weld and drove it like that for several years. The problem is that those metal pieces doesn't come with new brake pads unlike traditional single/double piston caliper shims. It's a part of the whole caliper assembly, so either you need to buy whole caliper or somehow find those from an old caliper.
I think he's talking about the metal shims upon which the pads rest, they are bolted to the caliper with an Allen head screw. I had the same issue where the part of the shim broke and pad was loose. I put it back with some jb weld and drove it like that for several years. The problem is that those metal pieces doesn't come with new brake pads unlike traditional single/double piston caliper shims. It's a part of the whole caliper assembly, so either you need to buy whole caliper or somehow find those from an old caliper.
Oh, this is interesting. It is bolted onto the caliper with an Allen head?
So theoretically, if I found one in a junkyard, I could take them off and put them on mine?
Oh, this is interesting. It is bolted onto the caliper with an Allen head?
So theoretically, if I found one in a junkyard, I could take them off and put them on mine?
You could, if you are talking about same part. However, it is very hard to take those allen screws off as most of the times they are rusted in place. Best would be to use the whole caliper if you can't take them off.
You could, if you are talking about same part. However, it is very hard to take those allen screws off as most of the times they are rusted in place. Best would be to use the whole caliper if you can't take them off.
Thats a good point. I am sure I would mangle it taking it off.
My caliper proper is in good condition. Some of these junkyards have rough parts, but if I could find one that has that piece intact, it could work.
I was told that it isn’t a safety issue and the brakes function fine. It is just a rattle and a noise.
Bulldog, I had this exact issue when I tried Brembo pads.
After a few months, I bought a set of Akebono ACT1091 instead - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...pt=1684&jsn=82 - and they fixed the problem. I guess they're just a better fit into the caliper - I was careful to use more ceramic grease with the new pads, I coated more places more liberally, and I also swapped all the mounting hardware with the CARLSON 13598 kit https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1736&jsn=10901 during the install.
Edit : Not sure what grease I used but I think it was a Bendix branded version of this - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...pt=10802&jsn=5 - I used like 2 pouches, coat everything that isn't the friction surface.
Bulldog, I had this exact issue when I tried Brembo pads.
After a few months, I bought a set of Akebono ACT1091 instead - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...pt=1684&jsn=82 - and they fixed the problem. I guess they're just a better fit into the caliper - I was careful to use more ceramic grease with the new pads, I coated more places more liberally, and I also swapped all the mounting hardware with the CARLSON 13598 kit https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1736&jsn=10901 during the install.
Edit : Not sure what grease I used but I think it was a Bendix branded version of this - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...pt=10802&jsn=5 - I used like 2 pouches, coat everything that isn't the friction surface.
Thanks for the information and your experience.
I had this most recent guy load it up with grease and it was ok for <24 hours.
I am thinking about JB Welding a piece of stainless steel flat stock in there to shore it up and tighten the fit. It’s not really an area that gets high heat.
Interestingly enough, I have the same exact pads in mine.
When you pull the pads in and out, are they actually a tight fit ? Can you jiggle them when they're in place ? Once all the spring clips (the flat ones and the long wire one) and the main pins are in place, it's weird to think the pads can still actually move around, especially enough to wear away those surface plates on the caliper.
Have you also tried just replacing the pads and all the mounting hardware anyway ? It's all cheap, and you might just find the new gear is all slightly bigger and fits better ! I don't know if I just got lucky doing this
When you pull the pads in and out, are they actually a tight fit ? Can you jiggle them when they're in place ? Once all the spring clips (the flat ones and the long wire one) and the main pins are in place, it's weird to think the pads can still actually move around, especially enough to wear away those surface plates on the caliper.
Have you also tried just replacing the pads and all the mounting hardware anyway ? It's all cheap, and you might just find the new gear is all slightly bigger and fits better ! I don't know if I just got lucky doing this
Well so I went all in today. I bought new pads and replaced with all new hardware. Still had the noise.
To answer your question, the inboard pad was missing both of those metal pads. One on each side. I thought (like you) that with all the pins and clips that it couldn’t move that much. Well it does and it did.
I ended up getting some flat stock stainless steel, 1/16”. I attached one on each side with JB Weld. It was a $3 fix vs buying a new caliper.
I took it for a quick, low speed drive, and the rattle/clunk is gone. I did not want to go too crazy with it since I want the JB Weld to cure a little more. I’ll know for sure tomorrow.
Hello
I had the same problem with my calipers in 2018. I bought this "retainer set- 45023-sja-305" from my local dealer, but i was not able tho lose this screws. So I bought a set of reworked calipers.
yesterday i checked my calipers, and the brake pads where very tight. I disassembled the brake pads, and saw, one of this retainer was broken again.
Is this workaround with the glue still working?
Which glue from JB WELD did you use?
Hello
I had the same problem with my calipers in 2018. I bought this "retainer set- 45023-sja-305" from my local dealer, but i was not able tho lose this screws. So I bought a set of reworked calipers.
yesterday i checked my calipers, and the brake pads where very tight. I disassembled the brake pads, and saw, one of this retainer was broken again.
Is this workaround with the glue still working?
Which glue from JB WELD did you use?
Hello
I had the same problem with my calipers in 2018. I bought this "retainer set- 45023-sja-305" from my local dealer, but i was not able tho lose this screws. So I bought a set of reworked calipers.
Thanks for this, that part number is very useful :
TSB : Front brake caliper pad retainers found to be broken at time of brake service. It is suspected that dirt trapped between the brake pad retainer and caliper body caused the retainer's pad contact surface to lift, and repeated load at the time of braking led to fatigue failure of the pad retainer.
A Service kit part number 45023-SJA-305 is provided to repair affected vehicles which is now available at Honda dealers. During front brake pad inspection, if the brake pad retainer is found to be broken (A), remove the front brake caliper and replace the brake pad retainers in accordance with the following procedure, using the service kit parts.
You need Impact driver with 3mm hex and in 99% this screws will lose. and you can buy on ebay new kit for rl calipers if you use this part number 45023-sja-305
Hi
last weekend I was able to remove the old retainers. I disassembled the two halfs of the calipers, and put it in the oven. After this, the small screws could be loosened.
But now I heard, that it is not allowed to separate the two halves. I also don't have the O-Ring between the halves, and also no torque. I am not sure now, what to do.
Is the a touque in this TSB? Does anyone have this TSB?
I don't think you are suppose to separate two halves according to factory manual. Now, if you have already done that, just don't use too much force when putting them back together just make them snug.
07-25-2022, 01:04 PM
