swake457

When you do, you shouldn't need the wood c-clamp device as shown above. Your RL comes with the tool you need to remove the old rotor :-)

Back behind the upper control arm, where the brake line attaches to the back wheel well, back off one of those bolts. It's the exact size you need. You can then use it to remove the old rotors quick and easy. The rotors have two holes (not the tapered rotor retaining screw holes) where you ratchet in this bolt in one hole until it makes contact with the hub underneath. Then, usually two or three more ratchets is all it takes to push it away from the hub. If it doesn't, just back off and then repeat in the second hole. That should do it. It should pop right off the hub. Don't go too far in on one side as to make the old rotor get too angled and caught up on the lug bolts. You don't want to damage those threads. This method is literally maybe two minutes and the rotor is off.

I personally prefer to leave the caliper on to remove the old pads first, then I unbolt the caliper from the caliper bracket and hang it safely from the spring, out of the way. I also gently wire-brush off the lug bolts and surface of the hub from rust or other debris built up from weather and time. A very thin coating of anti seize between the lug bolts, so next time (if there is one) the rotor comes off much easier. Also a small dab of anti-seize on the rotor retaining screws. Torque any caliper or lug bolts to manufacturer specs. I think it was 54ft.lb on the caliper bolts, and 94 on the lug nuts, but double-check that. The others I just make sure are snug tight, not cranked tight.

not_a_doctor

Anyone double-check that torque spec?