05 RL Front Rotors
05-13-2010, 01:48 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tacoma
Age: 47
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05 RL Front Rotors
Was getting my RL oil changed at the Honda dealer and asked to see if they can replace or turn my front rotors and they told me that i have to take it to acura dealer because the rotors was pressed on and dont have the tool to take them off. Is this true? If not id rather get more of a performance rotor and do it myself when i get back home from out of town. I searched already and wasnt finding a answer. Thanks
05-14-2010, 10:07 AM
#5
You need an impact screwdriver to remove most Honda/Acura rotors. It is like $9 and you can get them at any auto/hardware store and there is no way a Honda dealer doesnt have it. They are dumb lol
05-14-2010, 01:27 PM
#6
Impact screwdriver? Never needed one of those before. Never had a honda before this one so I guess that makes sense. I tried with a regular screwdriver and WD40 and didnt get it to move at all. Looks like I will have to get one of those impact screwdrivers. BTW How did you get the brake caliper bolts loose? I can get a ratchet with an extension on the mounting bolts but there is no real room to get any muscle on it.
05-14-2010, 01:35 PM
#7
Impact screwdriver? Never needed one of those before. Never had a honda before this one so I guess that makes sense. I tried with a regular screwdriver and WD40 and didnt get it to move at all. Looks like I will have to get one of those impact screwdrivers. BTW How did you get the brake caliper bolts loose? I can get a ratchet with an extension on the mounting bolts but there is no real room to get any muscle on it.
Tom
Trending Topics
05-14-2010, 04:02 PM
#8
Cruisin'
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Was getting my RL oil changed at the Honda dealer and asked to see if they can replace or turn my front rotors and they told me that i have to take it to acura dealer because the rotors was pressed on and dont have the tool to take them off. Is this true? If not id rather get more of a performance rotor and do it myself when i get back home from out of town. I searched already and wasnt finding a answer. Thanks
05-14-2010, 05:51 PM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tacoma
Age: 47
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
South Tacoma Honda
I was thinking they didnt know what they was thinking. Thats good then cause now im going to buy my rotors and do it myself.
Theres a questions a person aboved ask about taking the calipers off, are they just as easy as a single piston?
I was thinking they didnt know what they was thinking. Thats good then cause now im going to buy my rotors and do it myself.
Theres a questions a person aboved ask about taking the calipers off, are they just as easy as a single piston?
05-18-2010, 06:43 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
the press is needed if you r gonna swap out the entire hub.... cuz the bearing normally go bad if you r doing that.... but as far as changing rotors, "DON'T" do it.... it's not necessary to have a press.... I know this cuz I've installed an OEM Brembo brake on my TL for that you need new knockles + original hub + new bearings + same old hub + new rotors + calipers.....
05-25-2010, 02:44 PM
#14
Look, some of the older hondas did have a hub-over-rotor design in the front. Basically, the rotor was bolted onto the back of the hub. So the hub did have to be pressed-out to remove/replace the rotor.
I have yet to even look at my rotors, although they do need to be machined (not sure if warranty covers this), but I doubt that acura would've gone that route.
Further if you look at the pictures rtr provided in his post on his new rotors (assuming they're pictures of the front rotors) it's very obvious that the RL does not have the hub-over-rotor design.
I have yet to even look at my rotors, although they do need to be machined (not sure if warranty covers this), but I doubt that acura would've gone that route.
Further if you look at the pictures rtr provided in his post on his new rotors (assuming they're pictures of the front rotors) it's very obvious that the RL does not have the hub-over-rotor design.
05-25-2010, 03:10 PM
#15
I beleive the rotors that bolted from behind were only used on Accords in 90-91 and Preludes of the same year with f22.
Those are the only cars I have ever seen that design on. the use to have a machine that would turn those rotors on the car.
Those are the only cars I have ever seen that design on. the use to have a machine that would turn those rotors on the car.
06-28-2010, 08:02 PM
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tacoma
Age: 47
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks everyone 
been so busy running my business i just never have time for anything. I ordered my new rotors and pads and ill post pics if someone can help me with that.
been so busy running my business i just never have time for anything. I ordered my new rotors and pads and ill post pics if someone can help me with that.
07-04-2010, 01:38 AM
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tacoma
Age: 47
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok i got the pics working but they are really big so hope this is ok.
(1)have to remove 10mm bolts holding the brake line so when you take the caliper off you have freedom to move the caliper around
(2)take off main bolts, there are 2 one on top and bottom
(3)remove safety spring pin (not actual name) so you can take out the brake pad pins. pull safety spring pin from middle first
(4) remove the pins holding the brake pads. i used need nose to help.
(1)have to remove 10mm bolts holding the brake line so when you take the caliper off you have freedom to move the caliper around
(2)take off main bolts, there are 2 one on top and bottom
(3)remove safety spring pin (not actual name) so you can take out the brake pad pins. pull safety spring pin from middle first
(4) remove the pins holding the brake pads. i used need nose to help.
Last edited by TheOne305; 07-04-2010 at 01:44 AM.
07-04-2010, 01:47 AM
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tacoma
Age: 47
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
(5) careful when you pull the last pin everything falls apart
(6) Take out your screws holding the rotor. i used a 1/4 cordless impact but the screw came out pretty easy. i might not of needed the impact.
(7) i used a peace of wood and c-clamps and when tightening i used a hard plastic mallet and tapped then tighten again and tapped and it popped off.i didnt tap that hard but a medium tap i guess. Im sure some people dont recommend this but work fine for me.
(8) use a brass brush to clean off hub
(6) Take out your screws holding the rotor. i used a 1/4 cordless impact but the screw came out pretty easy. i might not of needed the impact.
(7) i used a peace of wood and c-clamps and when tightening i used a hard plastic mallet and tapped then tighten again and tapped and it popped off.i didnt tap that hard but a medium tap i guess. Im sure some people dont recommend this but work fine for me.
(8) use a brass brush to clean off hub
07-04-2010, 01:51 AM
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tacoma
Age: 47
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
(9) put your new rotor on.
(10) some people im sure does this diffrent but i used the old pad and cleaning rag so the c-clamp doesnt scratch anything and pressed back in the pistons on both sides. i removed the brake reservoir cap before this
(11) brake pad squeaker is on the opposite side of the acura letters.These pads are the Red Stuff
(12) simple put back together and here it is
(10) some people im sure does this diffrent but i used the old pad and cleaning rag so the c-clamp doesnt scratch anything and pressed back in the pistons on both sides. i removed the brake reservoir cap before this
(11) brake pad squeaker is on the opposite side of the acura letters.These pads are the Red Stuff
(12) simple put back together and here it is
07-04-2010, 01:57 AM
#21
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tacoma
Age: 47
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
(13)another view
(14)and the rim put back on
(15)after 15 miles. must take it easy on braking for the first few hundred miles i believe. im taking it easy on the first 500 miles. I notice a ruff sound coming from the brakes just a faint sound and can feel in peddle and steering wheel but has gotten much better after about 15miles and now its been about 40 miles and i cant feel it anymore.
Wanted to say thanks to my friend Adel for helping me. My first time doing this type of brake other then single piston. I just got done driving again and feels pretty much normal now. I hope this help other owners like myself feel more comfortable about changing there rotors and pads. thanks everyone
(14)and the rim put back on
(15)after 15 miles. must take it easy on braking for the first few hundred miles i believe. im taking it easy on the first 500 miles. I notice a ruff sound coming from the brakes just a faint sound and can feel in peddle and steering wheel but has gotten much better after about 15miles and now its been about 40 miles and i cant feel it anymore.
Wanted to say thanks to my friend Adel for helping me. My first time doing this type of brake other then single piston. I just got done driving again and feels pretty much normal now. I hope this help other owners like myself feel more comfortable about changing there rotors and pads. thanks everyone
07-04-2010, 03:59 PM
#23
Racer
You're a good man, TheOne305, for doing this and providing pics. My 05 RL is due for a brake job in the very near future.
I looked thru the thread and didn't see any pricing. How much (and what kind) were the rotors and where did you get them?
The Dealer quoted me $450 for the front brake job. I think I can upgrade the rotors/pads and do it myself for alot less.
I looked thru the thread and didn't see any pricing. How much (and what kind) were the rotors and where did you get them?
The Dealer quoted me $450 for the front brake job. I think I can upgrade the rotors/pads and do it myself for alot less.
07-05-2010, 01:35 AM
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tacoma
Age: 47
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i got everything for $400. The rotors are EBC Brakes Sport Rotors for about $300 and the pads are EBC Brakes Red Stuff Brake Pads for $100. I now notice that the brakes really grab now when braking. I slow down to early when coming to a stop and have to let off the brake sometimes. Im really impressed with this setup and definately recommend. I race my RL all the time especially around corners. My next upgrade will be RonJon 19" Vega's and H&R sport springs and i think ill put the springs on myself with pics to show everyone 
07-05-2010, 01:13 PM
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tacoma
Age: 47
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com...C-Sport-Rotors
07-05-2010, 10:56 PM
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tacoma
Age: 47
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
07-05-2010, 11:34 PM
#30
well you have dimpled rotors which is not cross drilled because the holes don't go through the rotor. With out the hole right through you dont get the same effect. And also i looked at the link picture and it looks different than the rotors on your car if you look at the shine, dimple pattern and amount of slots.
07-06-2010, 01:31 AM
#31
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tacoma
Age: 47
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well you have dimpled rotors which is not cross drilled because the holes don't go through the rotor. With out the hole right through you dont get the same effect. And also i looked at the link picture and it looks different than the rotors on your car if you look at the shine, dimple pattern and amount of slots.
07-06-2010, 02:10 AM
#32
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tacoma
Age: 47
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well you have dimpled rotors which is not cross drilled because the holes don't go through the rotor. With out the hole right through you dont get the same effect. And also i looked at the link picture and it looks different than the rotors on your car if you look at the shine, dimple pattern and amount of slots.
07-06-2010, 02:35 AM
#33
i think they look good...
07-06-2010, 11:46 PM
#34
i'm not a hater at all, I just hate to see people spend money and not get the full result/benefit. you'd be surprised how hard it is to get better quality than stock honda/acura. i think a lot of people here forget they own the top of the line car, which requires top of the line parts to maintain the cars full quality and performance. im glad you posted the process and the photos for everyone. i actually had one bent caliper bolt so im glad i did the brakes myself. it doesn't hurt to squirt some lube on all the caliper bolts also.
07-07-2010, 12:59 AM
#37
EBC rotors and pads are quality parts, but the better braking is coming from the pad material.
slotted, drilled, dimpled are all to keep rotors cool and prevent loss of braking due to outgassing and heat.
I have only ever experienced loss of brakes one time due to heat/gas and it was cause I was continiously pushing a car with oem pads/rotors.
slotted, drilled, dimpled are all to keep rotors cool and prevent loss of braking due to outgassing and heat.
I have only ever experienced loss of brakes one time due to heat/gas and it was cause I was continiously pushing a car with oem pads/rotors.
07-12-2010, 01:13 AM
#38
old hatch you may notice that the knuckle is Aluminum and the bolt is steal there for when taking out you clean the holes in the knuckle and the bolt with brake cleaner and tinny bit of WD40 for reassembly. the last thing you want to do is strip your knuckle when putting your calipers back on. Just a tip
07-12-2010, 09:43 AM
#39
6th Gear
Join Date: Jun 2010
Age: 57
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hate to stir the pot, but here is a link discussing the benefits of drilling and slotting rotors vs plain rotors...in short the benefits look to be reduced weight along with removing water
from the rotor surface...:
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...dissolved.html
from the rotor surface...:
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...dissolved.html
