Rear wiper slow
 

Here is the Acura Manual on replacing the wiper motor. Hope this helps

Maybe the motor armature needs cleaning or the pivot is seizing (usually not the case since it runs in a brass sleeve with a stainless steel shaft).

I rebuilt a starter for a friend because it was slow to start and it was not a connection or a battery problem. I know it is a starter, but an electric motor is an electric motor.

Wiper motors are set in a worm drive mechanism (for torque). Check the brushes, clean it, grease it and you are likely good to go. I have rebuilt these on my beaters when I was young.

Before:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...078383b41d.jpg

After (same part):

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...c0238dc028.jpg


If you are handy, these can easily be cleaned and rebuilt.

Perfect, thanks! There are a lot of fasteners in that lower trim panel! I'll get to work and let you know how it turns out, appreciate the detailed help.

Just a quick update - I replaced the motor today, it was very straightforward with the instructions provided. Probably took a little more than an hour, and I was working slowly. The hardest part was finding the nut that holds the wiper blade after I dropped it and it rolled away into the snow, but I was even successful at that. I just went ahead and bought a new motor online, I think it was $70 with shipping. The old motor became hard to move, even turned on and manually assisting it, so perhaps something broke inside the drive mechanism. I appreciate the help provided by this forum!

For your info, that is because it is a worm drive. It will always be hard to move the motor if you are helping it with the wiper arm. If you spin the motor, it turns the wiper system easily.

At 2:30 in this video, it explains how the worm drive system works.

This thread should be nominated for the best thread of Acurazine, if there is such a thing.

Slow Rear Wiper Fix
 

Hi everyone,
Just a tip for slow rear wiper. Had this on my 2008 MDX and now on my 2015 RDX. In both cases if you take off the rear wiper arm and put some penetrating oil (Krown or Rust Check is best as it will creep into small spaces) on the shaft that goes through the glass, it will help free up the resistance on the motor. Also be sure to shoot a bunch down from the inside of the glass between the plastic trim with the motor running. In both cases, you could almost instantly hear the motor thanking me as it went back to full speed. The shaft gets rusted and corroded and causes too much resistance. Sure, a new wiper motor will fix it, but it is really the shaft that is dragging. Just thought I'd post to help any other garage mechanics save about $100.
Another tip to get the rear wiper arm off (mine was corroded and seized), put vice grips on the loosened nut and under the wiper arm flange; then heat up the shaft and nut with a small torch while the vice grips are putting outward pressure on the wiper arm to release the seal. Mine was so seized, I had destroyed the wiper arm that cracked and was only left with the metal insert. I tried with just lubrication over a few days, but it wouldn't release until I put the torch on it. Not sure why they don't put any anti-seize on there. It's on there now. Be careful not to heat too much near the glass and rubber seal; but right on the shaft. (Giggity)
Hope this helps someone.