truelies

How difficult to flush brake fluid myself? Couldn't find any info here.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Just like any other car.
the correct way; bleed each caliper while refilling brake master cylinder with new fluid...once you see new fluid at each caliper, you've flushed all the old stuff out

truelies

Do I need to flush the brake fluid? Here it says never flush https://bottomlineinc.com/life/car-m...-kind-of-flush

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Bleed each caliper; until you see fresh new fluid. once you've seen new fluid, you've effectively "moved" all the old fluid out


I was using the word flush as a verb.
the article you linked says the SAME thing I did...it used "flush" as a verb. or an action.


Like ALL cars you Bleed each caliper until you see fresh fluid....

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

A mechanic might recommend a total brake system flush, which is what I believe the article you cited was talking about. That's typically unnecessary and would involve completely bleeding the system as well as the ABS which is almost never needed.

However, a simple bleed and refill of the system which justn described is pretty par for the course for most any gearhead that decides to change his own brakes. Since pads and rotors last quite a while, I always bleed the system when I change them. We're talking like, every 60k-80k miles or so. Not exactly a routine maintenance item that you'll be doing every 3 months. I've put about 100k miles on my car and I've done it once.

It's nothing more than loosening up the bleed screw on the caliper, placing a container under the caliper to collect the old fluid, pressing on the brake pedal a few times, refilling the reservoir and repeating. I'd say you'd use a full container of brake fluid to do all four. It takes all of 30 minutes and $10 for a bottle of brake fluid. If it's your first time, maybe an hour. Just make sure not to allow the reservoir to get too low between pressing the pedal when bleeding otherwise you'll get air in the brake lines and have to do a lot more "bleeding" in order to flush out all the air.

That's it. Is it necessary? Probably not. But old fluid can have air, water and contaminants in it that reduces its "compressibility" which in turn results in a more spongy feeling brake pedal. The feeling of new rotors, pads and brake fluid is like driving a new car off the lot with brand new brakes.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

that was hard explaining, because I assumed OP knew the procedure of bleeding or letting the air out of a closed system. my fault.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

Ha. Uses an old soda bottle. That's exactly how I collect mine

Oh yeah, OP, you don't want to get brake fluid on your paint. It can mess up clear coat. So be careful when you're filling the reservoir as well as collecting the old stuff out the caliper bleed screw.

thoiboi

I use a mityvac to do my own brakes

Poolman

I use a vacuum device , that I hook to the bleeder, then turn the bleeder to open and hook the vac, while the cap is off of the master cylinder. It pulls the fluid out at the bleeder, than refill and head to the next wheel.

Sears.com

markAZ

Uh, no. It's actually the opposite. Air in the system increases the "compressibility". Brake fluid is not compressible(*) but air is. It's the air that makes brakes spongy and why you have to remove the air when you open the system. Also, brake fluid absorbs moisture which can lead to corrosion of the brake components (calipers, etc) and can also turn to steam if it gets hot enough, which is also compressible and can make the brakes feel spongy. I agree, tho...even if the brakes don't feel spongy it's a good idea to flush them periodically.

Sorry to be pedantic...the engineer in me just can't resist correcting...

(*) Technically, all fluids are somewhat compressible but hydraulic fluids like brake fluid are very nearly totally non-compressible whereas air and water vapor are highly compressible.

Pair of TLs

Tee-hee--Engineers are like that.

Tech

Exactly why I've always said "the internet is the greatest source of unconfirmed information".

My last car that I bought new and owned for almost 15 years is now owned by a friend of mine and it is in its 19th year of very harsh winters. The brake calipers are still original. I would flush the system every 3 to 4 years. It also helps the bleeder screws from getting seized.

I use a Motive Products Power Bleeder to do mine. Best tool I ever bought.

Poolman

The above , is the reason I use a vacuum system to bleed the brakes, instead of pressure. Yep o2 can enter the system when it's forced in,,hard to happen when it's used to pull through.

Tech

How? You've tried this?

Poolman

Never tried it, always pulled the stuff through. Guess, that what has always worked for me ,was the best way to do it, unless someone could prove there was another way better. Do it which ever way works for you,

frankjnjr

Hey Justin, thanks for the informative video. Hoping you can clarify something for me. I've always understood, that when bleeding the brakes, it's wise to place a block, "ie" ( like a piece of 2X4 ) under the brake pedal. The purpose of the block, is to prevent the seal, on the master cylinder plunger, from "bottoming out", and exposing the seal to potential damage. May i have your thoughts on this recommendation?

Tech

Having done it with a Motive Product Power Bleeder, I have never had air bubbles being generated by using a pressure system. What would be the point; I'd always have air bubbles in my lines which is not the case since the pedal is rock solid.

Motive Products

Poolman

Yep, Probably works great ! When I bought the tool that's in my link, just thought about different way to use it , and the brake bleeding idea popped up.