Do you use regular gas(#87) to fill up 2016+ Acura Rdx?
Do you use regular gas(#87) to fill up 2016+ Acura Rdx?
07-13-2017, 05:15 PM
#2
Stay Out Of the Left Lane
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Dozens of threads on this and the debate rages on. Can you use 87 in the RDX? - Yes, Do many people? - Yes The ECU will retard timing to prevent pre-detonation but at the same time you won't get the full performance of the engine. So you may ask yourself - how are going to drive the RDX?
There are folks who have used 87 octane for years and have reported no issues. The manufacturer recommends 91........... Some members ask why spend the $$ on an Acura if you can't afford the recommended fuel? The savings isn't that much. Once again highly debated topic.
There are folks who have used 87 octane for years and have reported no issues. The manufacturer recommends 91........... Some members ask why spend the $$ on an Acura if you can't afford the recommended fuel? The savings isn't that much. Once again highly debated topic.
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Florida Wen (10-21-2023)
07-13-2017, 07:55 PM
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A slight correction, there is a phenomena called "Detonation" and phenomena called "Pre-Ignition", and they are very-very different.
Pre-Ignition is just what it sounds like, ignition of the fuel source before the spark event; when this happens engine destruction will occur within a matter of a few rotations.
Detonation happens after the spark event, typically well after. The cause for detonation is a combination of the flame front being sparked off (by the spark plug) too early and/or too high of a compression ratio (i.e. too much heat in the combustion chamber), which in turn causes small pockets of "end gas" to self combust. Mild detonation is considered by many engineers to be the perfect optimal balance point on that knife edge between too conservative and too aggressive, which in turn leads to peak fuel efficiency. Moderate detonation will, over time, cause damage to your engine, and severe detonation typically leads to short term engine damage, which in turn often leads to pre-ignition (see above).
Pre-Ignition is just what it sounds like, ignition of the fuel source before the spark event; when this happens engine destruction will occur within a matter of a few rotations.
Detonation happens after the spark event, typically well after. The cause for detonation is a combination of the flame front being sparked off (by the spark plug) too early and/or too high of a compression ratio (i.e. too much heat in the combustion chamber), which in turn causes small pockets of "end gas" to self combust. Mild detonation is considered by many engineers to be the perfect optimal balance point on that knife edge between too conservative and too aggressive, which in turn leads to peak fuel efficiency. Moderate detonation will, over time, cause damage to your engine, and severe detonation typically leads to short term engine damage, which in turn often leads to pre-ignition (see above).
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NBP04TL4ME (07-14-2017)
07-14-2017, 07:21 AM
#5
Racer
We're in it for the long hall so we use premium Top Tier (name brand) gas. I tried regular for a while on our last RDX, the '13, and my sensitive butt sensed more struggling and the car generally didn't feel right. If I'm going to spend that kind of money on a car I'm going to use what the manufacturer recommended. I chatted with an Acura rep about this years ago and there was something about firing at TDC on Acuras, different than on Hondas (my reaction: 
).
My d.i.l. Is the principal driver of the '13 now and she tends to fill cars with cheap crap 87 octane gas and use JiffyLube for oil changes, so my son grabs the car every weekend and puts in Shell 91, and makes sure oil changes are done either by the dealer or a service place specializing in higher-end imports.
).My d.i.l. Is the principal driver of the '13 now and she tends to fill cars with cheap crap 87 octane gas and use JiffyLube for oil changes, so my son grabs the car every weekend and puts in Shell 91, and makes sure oil changes are done either by the dealer or a service place specializing in higher-end imports.
Last edited by CanTex; 07-14-2017 at 07:26 AM.
07-14-2017, 11:29 AM
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A slight correction, there is a phenomena called "Detonation" and phenomena called "Pre-Ignition", and they are very-very different.
Pre-Ignition is just what it sounds like, ignition of the fuel source before the spark event; when this happens engine destruction will occur within a matter of a few rotations.
Detonation happens after the spark event, typically well after. The cause for detonation is a combination of the flame front being sparked off (by the spark plug) too early and/or too high of a compression ratio (i.e. too much heat in the combustion chamber), which in turn causes small pockets of "end gas" to self combust. Mild detonation is considered by many engineers to be the perfect optimal balance point on that knife edge between too conservative and too aggressive, which in turn leads to peak fuel efficiency. Moderate detonation will, over time, cause damage to your engine, and severe detonation typically leads to short term engine damage, which in turn often leads to pre-ignition (see above).
Pre-Ignition is just what it sounds like, ignition of the fuel source before the spark event; when this happens engine destruction will occur within a matter of a few rotations.
Detonation happens after the spark event, typically well after. The cause for detonation is a combination of the flame front being sparked off (by the spark plug) too early and/or too high of a compression ratio (i.e. too much heat in the combustion chamber), which in turn causes small pockets of "end gas" to self combust. Mild detonation is considered by many engineers to be the perfect optimal balance point on that knife edge between too conservative and too aggressive, which in turn leads to peak fuel efficiency. Moderate detonation will, over time, cause damage to your engine, and severe detonation typically leads to short term engine damage, which in turn often leads to pre-ignition (see above).
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horseshoez (07-14-2017)
07-14-2017, 04:11 PM
#7
Trending Topics
07-16-2017, 10:23 PM
#8
Pro
I will chime in on cue and say we have used both 87 and 93 over the 33k miles we have had ours. No difference in performance, or MPG. If the Accord with the identical V6 requires regular, why does Acura recommend premium for the RDX? I have yet to get a concrete, believable answer other than "if you can afford to buy a premium car, you can afford to buy premium gas". Not good enough for me.
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ronsteve2112 (03-22-2023)
07-17-2017, 07:32 AM
#9
My RDX is a lease so I go with off brand 93 which is usually about .30 more than brand name regular.
If I owned the RDX,I would use Shell or other top tier gas.
I actually go with Shell 89 in my Accord V6.
I know,I know but it's a feel good thing and I only do around 4K-5K miles per on it..
If I owned the RDX,I would use Shell or other top tier gas.
I actually go with Shell 89 in my Accord V6.
I know,I know but it's a feel good thing and I only do around 4K-5K miles per on it..
07-20-2017, 05:48 AM
#12
Don't you think Honda would love to have a regular requirement?
What does Honda have to gain with a premium recommendation?
I think the Honda engineers know what's best for the RDX engine.
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thoiboi (07-20-2017)
07-20-2017, 07:50 AM
#13
A salesman will just about say anything to get that commission and sale on the dealer monthly chart.
Don't you think Honda would love to have a regular requirement?
What does Honda have to gain with a premium recommendation?
I think the Honda engineers know what's best for the RDX engine.
Don't you think Honda would love to have a regular requirement?
What does Honda have to gain with a premium recommendation?
I think the Honda engineers know what's best for the RDX engine.
I went in to get vibrations fixed on my tires due to flat spots. (Sitting on lot of 5 months). Asked service dept and there is nothing wrong with running regular. I put regular in the loaner too and no problems. Whole dealer fleet uses regular...
So as the dealer told me, don't waste money on premium. So I'm comfortable with that.
-cW
07-20-2017, 08:44 AM
#14
Why are you so worked up about this? You can just call your service dept or acura customer service to find out. None of them will say running regular is a problem or that it will void any warranty.
I went in to get vibrations fixed on my tires due to flat spots. (Sitting on lot of 5 months). Asked service dept and there is nothing wrong with running regular. I put regular in the loaner too and no problems. Whole dealer fleet uses regular...
So as the dealer told me, don't waste money on premium. So I'm comfortable with that.
-cW
I went in to get vibrations fixed on my tires due to flat spots. (Sitting on lot of 5 months). Asked service dept and there is nothing wrong with running regular. I put regular in the loaner too and no problems. Whole dealer fleet uses regular...
So as the dealer told me, don't waste money on premium. So I'm comfortable with that.
-cW
I'm not worked up about anything.
It's a forum with opinions from forum members.
It's your vehicle, do what you want.
I just find it is funny how people will spend a lot of $$$ for a vehicle and then think they know more than the engineers who had input into the making of the vehicle.
On top of that, believe a salesman over the engineers.
If the RDX can use regular, why isn't it recommended in the owners manual?
Wouldn't a regular recommendation be beneficial for sales?
People don't like paying up to .90 more for premium.Honda bean counters certainly know that.
Last edited by colt427; 07-20-2017 at 08:48 AM.
07-20-2017, 09:08 AM
#15
Senior Moderator
Honda engineers obviously have stock in gas and oil companies 
07-20-2017, 09:28 AM
#16
I'm not worked up about anything.
It's a forum with opinions from forum members.
It's your vehicle, do what you want.
I just find it is funny how people will spend a lot of $$$ for a vehicle and then think they know more than the engineers who had input into the making of the vehicle.
On top of that, believe a salesman over the engineers.
If the RDX can use regular, why isn't it recommended in the owners manual?
Wouldn't a regular recommendation be beneficial for sales?
People don't like paying up to .90 more for premium.Honda bean counters certainly know that.
-cW
07-20-2017, 09:33 AM
#17
Senior Moderator
I just rtfm and it said this:
Source: http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p.../BX41616OG.PDF
Your move, notsocool water
07-20-2017, 09:36 AM
#18
Page 112
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p.../BX41616OG.pdf
You're the one that's getting so worked up about this.
07-20-2017, 09:37 AM
#19
I just rtfm and it said this:
Source: http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p.../BX41616OG.PDF
Your move, notsocool water
07-20-2017, 10:21 AM
#20
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I'm not going to chime in with premium vs. regular. It's an old subject with too many opinions. I'm a science nerd, degree in Bio and Chem and knowing the chemistry of octane, I use the recommended top-tier premium in my TL.
However, what I will say is that in may cases, car salespeople don't know
about the cars they sell. They're SALESpeople. They specialize in SALES. They learn about the fancy features and sales points on whatever product they sell and tout it as such. That's their job. And they do well at it. But their job doesn't require to have an extensive, or even a basic knowledge of the inner working of the product. I've learned this the hard way, working for a few different companies specializing in science and technical services. The sales people simply know what they need to in order to sell the product/service. And that's just fine. That's why they transfer the call to us science dorks when the customer starts asking technical questions.
However, what I will say is that in may cases, car salespeople don't know
about the cars they sell. They're SALESpeople. They specialize in SALES. They learn about the fancy features and sales points on whatever product they sell and tout it as such. That's their job. And they do well at it. But their job doesn't require to have an extensive, or even a basic knowledge of the inner working of the product. I've learned this the hard way, working for a few different companies specializing in science and technical services. The sales people simply know what they need to in order to sell the product/service. And that's just fine. That's why they transfer the call to us science dorks when the customer starts asking technical questions.
I will not be baited anymore. I am done. You can selectively paste only parts of the manual but that is ok.
07-20-2017, 11:10 AM
#22
The inconvenient truth
Reading this thread reminded me of what I had read in the owners manual for my TL. I found it an interesting comment on the subject
"Break-in Period, Fuel Recommendation
Help assure your vehicle’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 km). During this period: You should also follow these recommendations with an overhauled or exchanged engine, or when the brakes are replaced. Do not change the oil until the multi-information display indicates it is needed. Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles (300 km). Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
Your vehicle is designed to operate on premium unleaded gasoline with a pump octane of 91 or higher. If this octane grade is unavailable, regular unleaded gasoline with a pump octane of 87 or higher may be used temporarily. The use of regular unleaded gasoline can cause metallic knocking noises in the engine and will result in decreased engine performance. The long-term use of regular-grade gasoline can lead to engine damage.
On vehicles with manual transmission
You may hear a knocking noise from the engine if you drive the vehicle at low engine speed (below about 1,000 rpm) in a higher gear. To stop this, raise the engine speed by shifting to a lower gear."
this is copy and pasted from page 468 of my cars manual at
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...2/K41212OM.PDF
"Break-in Period, Fuel Recommendation
Help assure your vehicle’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 km). During this period: You should also follow these recommendations with an overhauled or exchanged engine, or when the brakes are replaced. Do not change the oil until the multi-information display indicates it is needed. Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles (300 km). Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
Your vehicle is designed to operate on premium unleaded gasoline with a pump octane of 91 or higher. If this octane grade is unavailable, regular unleaded gasoline with a pump octane of 87 or higher may be used temporarily. The use of regular unleaded gasoline can cause metallic knocking noises in the engine and will result in decreased engine performance. The long-term use of regular-grade gasoline can lead to engine damage.
On vehicles with manual transmission
You may hear a knocking noise from the engine if you drive the vehicle at low engine speed (below about 1,000 rpm) in a higher gear. To stop this, raise the engine speed by shifting to a lower gear."
this is copy and pasted from page 468 of my cars manual at
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...2/K41212OM.PDF
Last edited by dopeboy1; 07-20-2017 at 11:19 AM.
07-20-2017, 11:15 AM
#23
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07-20-2017, 11:39 AM
#24
Azine Jabroni
Does anyone else use water to fill their tank? I heard that works.
07-20-2017, 11:45 AM
#25
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07-20-2017, 11:46 AM
#26
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07-20-2017, 11:47 AM
#27
Azine Jabroni
07-20-2017, 11:49 AM
#28
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07-20-2017, 11:53 AM
#30
Pro
Reading this thread reminded me of what I had read in the owners manual for my TL. I found it an interesting comment on the subject
"Break-in Period, Fuel Recommendation
Help assure your vehicle’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 km). During this period: You should also follow these recommendations with an overhauled or exchanged engine, or when the brakes are replaced. Do not change the oil until the multi-information display indicates it is needed. Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles (300 km). Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
Your vehicle is designed to operate on premium unleaded gasoline with a pump octane of 91 or higher. If this octane grade is unavailable, regular unleaded gasoline with a pump octane of 87 or higher may be used temporarily. The use of regular unleaded gasoline can cause metallic knocking noises in the engine and will result in decreased engine performance. The long-term use of regular-grade gasoline can lead to engine damage.
On vehicles with manual transmission
You may hear a knocking noise from the engine if you drive the vehicle at low engine speed (below about 1,000 rpm) in a higher gear. To stop this, raise the engine speed by shifting to a lower gear."
this is copy and pasted from page 468 of my cars manual at
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...2/K41212OM.PDF
"Break-in Period, Fuel Recommendation
Help assure your vehicle’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 km). During this period: You should also follow these recommendations with an overhauled or exchanged engine, or when the brakes are replaced. Do not change the oil until the multi-information display indicates it is needed. Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles (300 km). Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
Your vehicle is designed to operate on premium unleaded gasoline with a pump octane of 91 or higher. If this octane grade is unavailable, regular unleaded gasoline with a pump octane of 87 or higher may be used temporarily. The use of regular unleaded gasoline can cause metallic knocking noises in the engine and will result in decreased engine performance. The long-term use of regular-grade gasoline can lead to engine damage.
On vehicles with manual transmission
You may hear a knocking noise from the engine if you drive the vehicle at low engine speed (below about 1,000 rpm) in a higher gear. To stop this, raise the engine speed by shifting to a lower gear."
this is copy and pasted from page 468 of my cars manual at
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...2/K41212OM.PDF
07-20-2017, 12:12 PM
#31
Azine Jabroni
07-20-2017, 12:26 PM
#32
Drifting
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I also recommend adding vegetable oil and bacon grease to the tank. Lubricates the piston rings. It's all hydrocarbons at the end of the day. And who doesn't like bacon? Cars like it as much as we do.
07-20-2017, 12:38 PM
#33
The salesman told me.
It also helps lube the muffler bearings.
It also helps lube the muffler bearings.
07-20-2017, 12:46 PM
#34
Latent car nut
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Then there are the all-important stickers from one's favorite mod(s); don't properly locate/mount the stickers and you'll lose performance and mileage.
07-20-2017, 12:51 PM
#35
Drifting
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^ True. Nothing like the added power of Tein, K&N, COBB tuning, Megan, DC Sports and Skunk2 stickers. I've done the J-Pipe, magnaflows and lightweight wheels. Stickers are next on my list. Just gotta save up some $$$.
07-20-2017, 01:41 PM
#36
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Manuel got drunk in my house and raped one of my chickens
He said the salesman told him it was okay and to go ask in the front office
I executed that chicken and fried it up
Salesman ate every piece
Ain't that right @cu2wagon?
He said the salesman told him it was okay and to go ask in the front office
I executed that chicken and fried it up
Salesman ate every piece
Ain't that right @cu2wagon?
07-20-2017, 02:17 PM
#37
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07-20-2017, 02:26 PM
#38
Azine Jabroni
For all yall that are like "These guys are jerks!", we're just sick and tired of gasoline threads
07-20-2017, 02:27 PM
#39
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Or we're actually jerks 
07-20-2017, 02:28 PM
#40
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