ossaguy

I have a new 2015 RDX that I plan on doing my own oil changes on,since it's so easy to do and then I know it's done right.I have done some research on the web,and see that the stock 15400PLMA02 filter is made by Fram for Honda.On a lot of YouTube videos,the Fram filters look pretty poorly made/designed.I've long heard that Wix is the best made for the money.( Same as a NAPA gold ) I see on Ebay that you can get them at a decent price,with free shipping.

So my 1st question is if I used a non-OEM filter on it,and had to bring it in for warranty issues,would they disqualify it had an aftermarket filter on it?

I have bought a couple of the 5qt jugs of Mobil 1 0w-20 at Wal-Mart to have on hand,but I'm wondering if we are supposed to use the oil from Acura that is a Synthetic blend until the rings are fully broke in? At what mileage would that normally be? Around here,the only 0W-20w I've found is Mobil 1.

I've never gone over 5k on an oil change,it will be like mental torture if I follow the minder,and go to like 6000-7500 miles...

I want to really keep care of it,since it cost me so much to buy.

Thanks for any thoughts!

Steve

hand-filer

Fram makes a cheap filter as well as quality filter. The Honda filter is manufactured to Honda's specifications so it should be good.
I use the Wix brand on my Mustang, they are indeed a high quality filter.
Don't do an oil change prior to 5,000k. Let the factory oil do it's thing.
After that you are good to go with synthetic or semi synthetic which is what Mobil1 is these days.

Joe Las Vegas

Knn, I know it's good and it has the 1" nut on the back of it to put it on/off easily.

tman

My vote is WIX. Google oil filter comparison and you will see different filter construction. Fram will surprise you. At least to my eyes. Good site I used to order Wix filters is filter1.com
Order a half dozen or so.

YeuEmMaiMai

OEM filter and oil 140K later, still no issues and car does not burn any oil (2k2 CL-S)

CoachRick

You should get that changed soon...

ARascal

x 2, what he says above,

I've used the K & N filters with the 1" nut on the back, easy off/on with a wrench. K & N is a Very good filter. I used them on my 99 Lexus for over 15 years & 130K miles. Never herd a peep from Lexus dealer. Good enough for my Lexus = Good enough for my new RDX. The same for Mobile 1 full synthetic.....

If the Acura dealer doesn't like it they can kiss me where the sun don't shine.... And, I do mean my lily white behind.

Your their customer... grow a pair.

tman

K&N filter are one of the better ones, more $$$ though.

hondu

Your RDX has factory "break-in" oil, so keep the factory fill in until the MM hits 15% or less. Mobil 1 0W-20 AFE is very good oil, so I think you made a good choice. This oil should easily go 7-8,000 miles between changes no problem. It is a high quality synthetic oil. As long as you use materials that meet your OM, your warranty is good (keep good records of what you do).

As for oil filters, Fram Ultra's are excellent oil filters (synthetic media) with good efficiency and are available at Walmart for around ~$9. One of the better filters for an excellent price. They should also handle 7-8,000 miles easily (I believe they are designed for 15,000 miles). I also use Mobil 1 filters when I find them on sale.

I would not recommend a K&N oil filter. It is no better in construction than the Fram Ultra or the Mobil 1, and it cost more.

AXMACD

I use the K&N on my Civic.. I maybe have to change my oil once maybe twice a year so it's not a huge expense and it's easy enough to do (although I curse myself every time I do it). I'd spring for a bulk pack of Acura filters and crush washers.. they're cheap on eBay..

ossaguy

Thanks everyone for the tips.After watching all the YouTubes where they cut up and show the constuction of the most common filters,the Wix looked like it's the best made to me. I like the metal ends,the most uniform pleats,the coil spring and silicone valve,vs the parts on some of the others.

With the good pricing from Filter1.com, ( thanks member TMAN for that tip)I was able to order 10 of the 57356XP's..I got 10 so free shipping too.

I'm going to wait til the MM says to do it,but so far,I'm bummed that it looks like it's using oil.It's needed 2/3 of a qt.so far,with only about 2400 miles........I've always had Toyotas,and I never ever had to add between oil changes.

I did let the dealer make a note of it,so we can keep track of it.

Is this normal consumption for a new RDX?

Thanks again,
Steve

hondu

I would say adding oil this early in the engine life is not normal. At least, in my experience with the several J35 engines I've owned, I've never had to add oil between oil changes.

Did you properly break the engine in for the first 700-1000 miles? Not trying to imply this would be the cause, but mainly curious if you did or not.

ossaguy

I have been breaking it in carefully.I have kept the rpms varied,and I don't think it's been over 2200 rps,mostly around 1500 area.Never drove over the speed limit,tried staying in the slow lanes as much as I could.
The bottom of the engine is totally dry.
At the dealer at 1100 miles or so,it needed 1/2 a qt.So needing 1/3 yesterday,it shows that it's slowed up some.
I hope it's not a sign that the short block is bad,I'd hate to have to get anymore warrantty work done.

Steve

ipribadi

1/2qt in 1,000 miles!?
I'm pretty sure something isn't right.

For me my oil filter had a hairline crack in it.

It was spraying oil mist onto my right front tire anytime the engine was under high load. Didn't drip oil in my garage coz it didn't leak oil when the engine was off or any easy driving.
I thought I had gone thru an oil puddle of some sort and finally brought it in to the dealer at 500 miles or so to find the issue.

ARascal

Back in the old days, you had to "baby" the engine and let the piston rings wear in to the cylinder walls and let the bearings seat in the crankshaft. I've probably participated in the building of hundreds of race engines for drag cars and boats through the mid 50's to about 1985. We had to break them in first before real balls to the wall racing.


Not any more. The newer car and boat engines are now built with better materials, closer tolerances then we had and did why back when. Now a days... I break all my cars and boats in "hard and fast" If something's not right and going to break, I want to know about it now and have the factory pay for it. I've not broken one doing that in the last ten years. Of course, I stopped buying USA built cars about ten years ago also...


Now children... Try to use some common sense. Run her through the gears, but keep it below 6K rpm's. Don't be afraid to punch it in the ass to pass some one now and then. Don't baby her, but don't try to "red line" her. It comes with experience as to what's enough and what's "Too much". But... Don't "baby" it. If you do you'll end up with a low performance dog.

Second thoughts.... I've got thirty years of engine building and race track experience under my belt. I've put many an engine that I drove hard away in the garage and it lived to race another day. You got to know when "enough is enough". Or when to hold them or fold them...


Many reading this might still be young and wet behind the ears regarding engines. Those of you that are real good with ipads. But have never had grease under your finger nails from working on cars. And do not generally know how to work on a car, beyond just changing your oil. You better just follow the owner's manual. Your liable to blow the engine. Or, poke your eye out if you ever look under your cars hood... (LOL).


Keep under that porch...

ossaguy

I updated the dealer today,and they are going to do a first-free oil & filter change,then mark the filter,drain plug,cap and stick.Then I can't touch it for another 1000 miles,then they will check it and relay that info to Acura to see if something can or will be done about it.I'm glad I have a good dealership to work with.

So much for leaving the factory break-in oil in there...

Thanks,
Steve

hondu

I don't think the way you did your break-in is your oil loss problem. However, I wouldn't necessarily "baby" an engine during break in. I think you need to vary the revs and going to 4-5,000 rpm once in awhile isn't bad. Never going over 2200 rpm though is not a good way to break an engine in.

asb32952

http://www.zoro.com/i/G2157775/?category=7540
free shipping on $25+ orders
use code "dontforget" for $5 off
got 3 shipped for $20.82 or $6.94 each

there have been discussions on the honda s2000 and bobtheoilguy forums and fwiw i think these are the best bang for the buck. not sure this will fit all V6 applications b/c of the large size/clearance.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2440239

ossaguy

Holy smokes,after reading through some of the posts on the bobstheoilguy forum,it's just amazing how many heated opinions are voiced in regards to oil filters!

I didn't know it was such a loaded topic.....

I like the idea of an extra capacity filter if it fits right.I remember the guy who rebuilt my El Camino showed me a 2 or 3 qt filter ( it was really long ) that was made for trucks that fit on the 350 Chevy motor,and he swore by it.



Steve

asb32952

Yes, iirc there are about 3 sizes for the small block chevy. Used the middle size back in the day.

ossaguy

I really miss that car/truck. 1972 with 2-tone paint,such classic lines!

asb32952

Dad had a 68 with a straight 6, 3 on the tree, and a homemade wooden flatbed when I was in high school. It was totally West Virginia hillbilly ghetto with the quarterwalls (big whitewalls) he got a deal on them, of course.

ARascal

I vote for the K & N filter also. K & N make good quality items and I really like the nut on the end of the filter. You don't need a clumsy filter strap with this filter. Easy on and off.


I used this filter on my previous RX 300 ride for 130K miles with no problems along with Mobile 1 oil.

mdfree

I used this filter on my previous RX 300 ride for 130K miles with no problems along with Mobile 1 oil.[/QUOTE]

Wow that's a mighty long oil change interval!

ARascal

Wow that's a mighty long oil change interval! [/QUOTE]




No wonder....... I sold it. (LOL). It had a grinding, knocking sound coming from the hood....

powerflow

I've used the Royal Purple filter (Amazon) with Valvoline Synpower (Wally World) on my old TL, and RDX with good results, reasonable cost.

Oil change place wanted 80 bucks for a oil change with premium filter + synthetic.

CoachRick

Pretty sure I saw $97 on a dealer invoice yesterday...DANG! Glad I have a maintenance program in place.

hondu

My local dealer is pretty reasonable for synthetic oil changes. Usually has coupons every month or so for ~$63 for synthetic oil change and tire rotation.

mr_raja

I have been using K&N Oil Filters in my Acura for almost 5 years now. I initially installed the Honda/Acura OEM in my 2008 TL, but as soon as I noticed the word "Honeywell" on it, I stopped. I know I know, Honeywell is not that bad and if it was that bad Honda/Acura wont sell it, and yada yada yada, but if a K&N, or a Mobil1 or a Royal Purple, will cost me a dollar more than the OEM, I will spend that extra dollar.

Now to those that might be thinking, "A dollar more than OEM? What did this dude smoke this morning." The answer is, "I smoked good stuff."

I bought about a dozen K&N Oil Filters a few years ago from Pep Boys when they were offering "Buy one Get one" coupon for a week. I do an oil change every 8 - 10 months, so I think I am alright till at least next summer. After that I will start looking for deals on the Oil filters.

Also K&N, Mobil1 and Royal Purple oil filters used to be made by the same manufacturers, Champion Labs. but I just found out that Champion Labs is FRAM now. FRAM bought over Champion Labs, now I am hoping that FRAM will come up to the same level as Champion Labs used to be, not bring them down to their level. So whichever one you can find among the three that is on a sale price, go with it.

hondu

A Fram Ultra filter is one of the best made filters on the market. At around $9 at Wally World, one of the better deals as well.

mr_raja

Its been a while since I used any FRAM oil filter. Since FRAM owns Champ Labs, they may have been using the same technology and material as of Champ Labs. I can't confirm or deny FRAM Ultra being the best, since I have no experience with them. I tried searching for some video reviews but couldn't find anything legit for the FRAM Ultra. Whenever I search, I get countless reviews of the Orange FRAM, and we all know how good those reviews are.

hondu

Just spend some time on BOB IS THE OIL GUY (BITOG) website, and you will see a lot of glowing reviews on the Fram Ultra filters. People cut open used filters and post them on the site all of the time. Right now it sounds like Purolator's are the filter brand to definitely avoid (people seeing a lot of torn media).

asb32952

I just did my oil change with the b202 filter on my 3.2 engine and there are no clearance issues. when i took my used oil to wm a mile away they had no line and took my car over the well to check clearances turning the wheel hard right to left and all is good. looking forward to 10k mile oil changes with this filter and the mobil 1 i got for $1.20 a qt after coupons and recieved rebates. had to put in about 5 1/2 qts to get it to the full line.

1CleanRDX

I have an oil filter cutter, so I have been looking at different filters by cutting them open (usually after use). The Purolator Pure One's are really high quality. The OEM Honda filter looks very similar to the Pure One. I used to be a big fan of the standard Fram filters -- until I cut one open! Boy those are junk. The Tough Gaurd ones are better, but no where close to the Pure Ones from Purolator. I'll have to check out a Wix. I have been using their air filters in other cars.

hondu

I would not buy standard Fram filter or Tough Guard filter either. Only their Ultra (model XG7317 for Honda's/Acura's), which is a high quality filter and equivalent to Mobil 1, Bosch and Purolator's best filters.