yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Potential vehicle: 1998 Accord LX coupe
Current engine: J30A1 (200hp) with 300,000+ miles
Current trans.: 4-speed auto.



As mentioned, the desired engine to be swapped is a J35A6 (2nd gen j-series) from a 2005 Odyssey. Not sure if it will work but I'm looking to use the 2G TL-S 5-speed auto transmission but will more than likely encounter an issue due to the J35A6 having the same bolt pattern as a J35A8 (2007-2008 TL-S motor). Although I know the J35A8 will not bolt up to a 2G CL-S 6-speed manual, BUT I have heard that the J32A2 can be mounted up to 06 Oddy transmissions. If this part isn't accomplished, I will source a an 05-06 Oddy auto instead.

Ok, now that this part is out of the way, here's where everything gets a little technically in depth. Now, starting in 04 and up Acura implicated the use of wideband O2 sensors and CAN bus systems into their vehicles. This obviously is a much faster, precise means of communication and tuning for the vehicle. It also complicates the swap process of 2nd gen J motors because (As enlightened by Paul "NVA-AV6) without the ECM detecting certain other modules (primarily the cluster) in the network it will not operate/function properly. So what I'm trying to do here is modify the J35A6 to accept the J32A2 cam/crank sensors. I've already made fitment of both the trigger wheel (cam gear) and cam sensors from the J32A2. To make this happen, I took material off the head near the cam seal and that was pretty much all it took in order to bolt everything up. My next step will be employing a means of installing the J32A2 crank sensor....

Couple of reference pictures for anyone who has interest or plans on doing the same/similar swap...assuming this all works of course. :-)

First picture shows a comparison of the J32/J35 trigger wheels mounted on its original engine. J32 is top picture followed by the J35.





Then the crank trigger wheels. J32 on left.



To be continued....

mikebikelife

iTrader: (3)

You're crazy , that would be one mean Accord .

Best of luck if you actually get it done , and mad props for even trying .

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Ok, just compared bellhousings from the J35A6 and the J32A2 and after reviewing them I feel its safe to say: No bueno. But as I mentioned previously, this was already suspected. That just means that the newer Oddy transmission must be used. No biggy considering the reputation of our slushboxes. :-)

J35A6


J32A2 (obtained from Google images)


And i forgot to post a picture lastnight of the A6 with the J32 pulley and cam sensor installed....

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

There is a God....

I have some news and will update the thread tomorrow with more detailed pics.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Sorry it's been a while and there has been no updates but I just have no time anymore. Just so you guys know, I have successfully modified a second generation J motor with the same bolt pattern as the J32A2 transmission that can work on a J32A2 harness and ECM. Although I haven't installed the motor into the car yet due to a drastic change in plans with swapping over J35A8 heads/cams onto the J35A6, it WILL be installed and running hopefully within another 1-2 weeks when my shop work slows down enabling me focus more on the swap.

Here's a list of things that had to be done in order to make this work:
- remove material from from cylinder head in order to mount the cam sensor plate from the J32A2
- have a custom spacers (.1755") made that allows exactly .018" distance between the cam trigger wheel and cam sensor face...very important.
- convert J32A2 parts that were swapped to run on a 20mm timing belt setup rather than a 26mm.
- machine the J32A2 crank trigger wheel (the pulley on the crank that turns the timing belt) down to the exact same height as the J35A6 so there's room to install crank pulley due to the shorter crankshaft on the J35A6.

Before machining:



After machining:


- last and most importantly (by far the most difficult) was to modify the oil pump from the J32A2 to work on the J35A6. Although very similar in design, there were two differenc-es that had to be sorted through.

Here's a side-by-side of the oil pumps:


The top oil pump is from the J35A6 and the bottom is of course the J32A2. I've highlighted the differences in yellow but the most difficult part was the differences that the circle closest to the VTEC oil switch encircles. You can see here that the oil return is obviously up at a higher location thus bringing the lip (seal surface) up higher. The J32A2's doesn't go high enough up for the return and literally creates a hole once the oil pump is bolted up to the J35A6 block which I show in this photo:



My solution to this problem was to cut off the J32A2's seal surface and have an aluminum welder run a higher bead of weld in the same "arc" fashion as the J35A6's. The weld was brought up higher than the original seal surface and then later resurfaced by my machinist back to original deck height....BAM. Problem solved. Sorry, I will get more pics to show the solution here shortly.

The other circles were simply extra material that needed to be cutoff. This was essentially where the serpentine belt idler puller was mounted on the J32A2 motor. The J35A6 idler puller bolts to the actual block, not the oil pump.

Earlier in this thread I wrote a few inaccurate things. One was that the J35A6 (and other 2nd gen J motors like: J30A4, J32A3, J35A4, J35A5) didn't have the same bolt pattern as the 1st gen J motor like the J32A2. Observe:



That is a a 1st gen J motor tranny (J32A2) bolted up to a 2nd gen J motor (J35A6) and it was an exact match. Nothing modified or machined to make it fit. Because these 2nd gen motors can bolt up to our trannys and now I've adapted the motor to 1st gen cam/crank sensors it can now ran in unison as whole in this 1998 Accord without any other modifications. :-)



Now that I've taken care of the hard part, I've moved on to the fun stuff. I recently just purchased a 2007 RL J35A8 motor with less than 40k miles today for $600 and will swapping over the heads/cams to the J35A6 to bring the power up to around the 300hp level...using all oem parts. Of course running a standalone will be the best way to run on that setup of course. And just in case anyone is wondering why I didn't just adapt the J35A8 with 1st gen sensors, the J35A8 has an entirely different bellhousing that only works with the AWD transmissions from the RL, Ridgeline, MDX or the 07-08 TL-S 6-speed tranny. Here she is...







That's all I have for now.

ParaSurfer1979

This is like reading a story. It's great bro. I do have one interesting question>>> Back in 03' when i had my CL-S6, there was a lot of buzz about swapping out our cams for the 2nd gen RL's as it was to potentially gain 10+hp. Was this ever tru and if so, could we J32 powered 3rd gens do this swap as well and expect some power gain or not? Thank you for sharing your work and for answering my question.

gerzand

iTrader: (3)

Great work Robert....and its awesome that your coming from the opposite side of approach from where I am, but i can still respect what youre going for. Im in the process of fitting j32a2 heads on my j35a8 bottom end (in my native 07 TL-S) just so that I can make as much hp as possible NA with modified heads, as my biggest hurdle with the 32a3/35a8 heads has been restricted flow on exhaust side. Even with porting the exhaust side and big cams you just cant evacuate air fast enough on these merged heads. The key here will be larger exhaust valves (for both you and I). I am just going for every last horse. Either way, the direct port setup is coming along and im looking forward to the 150 shot this spring. Thanks for this info, as if I ever blow my engine up this might be something to try on the crank side of things with a j32a2 stroked full engine swap. Thanks again.

conge12

awesome project.... can't wait to see final product.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Ok, first of all I'm still familiarizing myself with the whole Acura realm and though I've learned quite a bit about these motors there's alot I don't know. I generally rely on testaments from other members here or using the logic of numbers...sometimes the number thing can become overwhelming due having so many factors to consider. Engines can only produce as much power proportionately to the amount of air/fuel that enters each cylinder and then is effectively (and efficiently) combusted. First the specs of each camshaft (taken from Acura tech manuals) on the listed motors...lift measured in millimeters:
J32A2
P-34.737 M-36.445 S-34.919 E-36.389
J32A3
P-35.041 M-36.445 S-35.284 E-36.326
J35A8
P-35.284 M-36.445 S-35.284 E-36.389

It's easy to see that the J35A8 comes out on top in numbers but only by two lobes (primary and exhaust) and only by fractions of a millimeter in comparison of the J32A3 cam. We know that the J32A2 made 260hp before SAE correction (maybe 250hp SAE?), the J32A3 at 270 and the j35A8 at 290hp. That's roughly 20hp between each motor. Each motor gaining progressively larger lifts (and maybe duration). The biggest differences is cams between these three was from the J32A2 to the J32A3...right? BUT, as close to the J35A8 the A3's cam specs were, the cam could easily be used in the A8 and maybe produce almost as much power. My point? The cam the A3 received was a huge change from the A2's and definitely accounted for a majority of the gains netted. But do you think the small differences between the A3's cams and the A8's cams were the reason for the additional 20hp? I wouldn't say so. One thing I've noticed about the 05+ RL and the 07-08 TL-S's heads is that they share the part number with no other Honda/Acura motors. Was it a coincidence that they were the only models (pre 3.7L) that produced nearly 300hp? I'd say that's the reason for the power increase. So my final conclusion here would be that the A3 cams would be a cheap upgrade cam for the A2 and well worth the cost IF it added the possibility of 20 extra HP...even 10-15 would still be great. And comparing the RL's cost of around $550 (both cams) as opposed to the A3's cost of $320 (both cams), its just nnot worth the minimal HP increase (you said 10hp...?) and the same goes for the RL cam in the A3. If anything, I'd say you J32A3 owners (3rd gen TL) would most likely benefit more from throwing on a set of RL/TL-S heads. And because the heads are nearly $1700 each at cost, you will more than likely seek a set of used heads. Find a used RL motor like I did and guess what? You get the cams too! ;-)

As I mentioned earlier, there most definitely other factors involved in the above equation but for the most part, I'd say (and I'm sure most others would agree) that the heads and cam are nearly most of what determines power output in any engine. I've realized how efficient at producing horsepower these motors are and if we can hit 300's by just using stock heads and cams, what's gonna happen when we combine some righteous cams in a set of heads that flow some damn good numbers on intake and exhaust? And if that guy up there (^^^^) is throwing down 350whp using ported (yet exhaust restricted) A8 heads, I think we'll all be shocked when somebody grows a nut sack and throws on a set of 3.7 MDX heads on a 2nd gen motor (A3 users!). The cam in that motor is actually weaker (slightly) than the A8's and its still making only 300hp while having a larger displacement? I'd say Acura "detuned" the motor from the factory and I'd also be willing to bet the 3.7 heads outflow the A8 heads.

^^^^
Andy, have you looked into the J37A1 heads yet at all? It would be interesting to see where those could potentially take you. I noticed the exhaust valve is the same part number as the J35A8 but the intake valve is a different number. Could be larger...maybe? Head part number is new so possibly a new casting too....

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Update for this post.

picture #1 shows a little bit of action....


picture 2 shows a beast (on top) and its companion (on bottom)...




As you can plainly see, car is on lift...pissing its coolant out. While the J35A8 and 5-speed auto tranny awaits to be installed. The original J30A1 is about to be dislodged after 300k miles of use and a very short life span of running 75hp nitrous hits...more updates VERY soon.

TacoCodeRed

very nice build. props for all the R&D you are doing.

ArthurL

iTrader: (4)

This is definitely going to be one sick Accord. Props for doing this.

acura_dipset_tl

iTrader: (40)

Nice work.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Thanks fellas. I'm getting close to the day of transplant. Although the A6 is no longer being installed due to the fortunate arrival of the A8, I'm still waiting on the completion of the modified oil pump from the local welder to take care of those few points that could/will cause sealing issues.

Finally got the A8 spun over today (out of the car of course) to check its cylinder compression readings. The result? Cylinders 1 and 4 both read 120psi and all others read 180psi. At first I panicked until realizing that the motor haven't been started in probably 6-8 months due to being stored for a future S2000 swap that went south. So I put a cap full of some Mobil 1 10w30 into each cylinder, spun the engine over 10-20 revolutions and way-lah....180psi all the way across maybe an hour later! Dry rings and possible cylinder surface rust almost made me CRY! Haha...

So far I've managed to acquire the following for the swap:
1. J35A8 ($500)
2. 5-speed automatic ($625 w/18k miles!)
3. 2007 RL ECM ($75)
4, 2007 TL-S engine main harness ($85)
5. 2005 Acura TL 3.2 engine sub-harness ($50)
6. All oem motor mounts/brackets ($370)
7. Starter ($85)

Still need:
1. DBW module
2. 2007 Acura RL accelerator pedal w/APP sensor
3. Various bolts for all motor mounts/brackets (extremely rare thread pitch only made for Honda cars!)
4. Minor repinning will be required to adapt the main harness to the ECM, the sub-harness to the main harness, and then the main harness to the motor. Only the #2 ECT sensor must be added to the 2007 TL-S harness as the ECT is on the radiator for that actual vehicle where as the RL has its #2 ECT on the water neck...like normal engines do!

Luckily, the RL ECM does not use the dumb electro-mechanical device to convert the mechanical movement of the gas pedal into an electronic signal for the ECM but rather just uses an accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor that integrated into the pedal itself then that signal is sent straight to the ECM. Way to keep things simple, wow! Also, I chose to use the RL ECM only because the ECM's factory programming is a little more aggressive than the TL-S' and squeezes out another 4 whopping horsepower (286 vs 290) and I need all the power I can get!

I've used both EBay and car-parts.com as my soul provider of great condition used parts for the swap (with the exception of LKQ for the trans and craigslist for the motor) and so far I've been very impressed with the value of the swap. I've maybe put in $2000 at MOST and will soon be sportin' an A8 before too long.

Big thanks to Gerzand (Andy) for all the help and support (and high phone bills caused by excessive texting!) he's given me. Dude is a FREAKin' genius with this stuff and should charge for his brilliance but humbly hands it out as any good natured person would do. Also, thanks to everyone here at Acurazine for the inspiration, encouragement of motivating comments, as well as those who unknowingly provide determination by the hatin' they bring upon me (and others) to say something cannot be done. This forum is great and so are the people in it....even those who make an effort and "act" like they know stuff: big shout out! And lastly, to Honda/Acura for designing/engineering a car beyond all others and reaching the pinnacle of what automobiles should and are suppose to be. Also, thanks to Coca Cola for being smooth and refreshing! Lmao....last one was a joke.

Peace out!

Atlas.46

Good find on the long block. Can't findone that cheap

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Here's one for $400 and they go up from there. Generally speaking, LKQ will not charge for shipping as long as you provide them with a business address. That saves a few hundred dollars right there!

Sonnick

Great write up man! Way to go with all that R&D too, wow. And good luck with the build!

So from this, we can denote that the Type S cams have only slightly higher lift than the Base cams. Did they measure the duration by any chance?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Yes, base TL is never more than .1-.2mm of lift on any of the cam lobes. That's (IMO) an "improvement" not worthy of its price unless there is a larger difference in any of the four lobe durations that could justify the cost of camshaft nicknamed by some "hype s cams". I will say that if you're upgrading from factory J32A1 cams, there's nearly a 5mm improvement on the VTEC lobe! And on the J32A2, the TL-S cams are (largest of the 4 lobes) .5 mm on the primary which may help slightly on bottom end performance. Other than that, you're looking at .2mm difference on the exhaust and believe it or not, the last two lobes of the factory J32A2 cam are actually larger than the TL-S cams. Not worth the money/time unless you need new cams anyways and are rebuilding your motor. Otherwise, IMO, go with the RL's. Mind you that all these statements are made without regard to any duration specs and honestly, a drastic difference in duration in certain places could make the world of difference!

Before going any further I would like to say one thing (if not already made apparent) about your question in camshaft durations and if there are any. I use a program called Alldata that has quite a bit of OEM shop manual information/reference and the program says not a word about camshaft durations. I've seen some here and there in reading/researching through forums and threads but have never paid any mind to them because I doubt they were obtained by a respectable source.

One thing that I would like to mention while discussing camshafts is something I never knew before until putting some extensive time into my research of OEM part interchangeability is the 07-08 TL-S in comparison to the 2005-2008 RL cams. These cams, contrary to popular belief, are NOT the same outside of the TL-S cams just being hollow thus lighter. The RL cams have a higher lift opposed to the TL-S. At times, the RL cam can be as high as .5mm when compared to the 3rd gen base 3.2 TL. I can also (without any documented information) say for a fact that the RL cam has a much more aggressive profile than the TL-S does in low-range performance. This implies a lower duration for improving torque and was more than likely designed that way due to the weight/general purpose of the RL. The TL-S on the other hand would most likely be the best pick in a stock motor where all levels of engine performance are desirable such as a daily driver. The RL cam wouldn't, IMO, be an ideal candidate for a stock motor destined for high engine revving purpose but could possibly prevail if internal engine work and modifications have been done to help the engine breath better...this COULD change the cams personality and enhance its mid/top end performance.

Lastly, I've learned that the J37A1 (2007-2009 MDX) cams are identical in regards to lift on every lobe as the 07-08 TL-S cams and are even hollow as they are. The best part about it all is that they're $50 less than the TL-S for those who want/need them.

Atlas.46

Wait is that true for all LKQ? If so that is good to know. I could have stuff shipped to my friends shop.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

I would still pick the 08 tls cams.
I forget the weight difference but, I think it's like 2lbs or more each.
If I was to rebuild again I would most certinly get bigger valves installed.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

As far as I know, yes. If you ever see them on eBay, their listings will even state there is free shipping when the buyer provides a business address. I know I can see several LKQ delivery trucks throughout the day...they have so much sales volume I'm sure that offering free delivery on an already existent route isn't doing nothing but making more money! :-)

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Figured id post a few pictures of my more than exciting Sunday morning. today is the day of the j35a8 transplant...and we were blessed with a beautiful 70 degree day. These first two pictures show prepping for the j30a1 removal. Here all we have left is fluid/coolant hoses and axles. Up to this point, it literally has takes less than an hour with me and a buddy working on it. Whoever says removal through the bottom is easiest I could easily debate. :-)

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Next is the view of the engine being lifted out of the engine compartment as well as a view of the engine compartment itself. No matter how many times its seen, I love seeing an engine as its retired and pulled from its cradle. Knowing that there's something bigger and badder also helps with the somewhat emotional sight. Haha, yeah...whatever!

Notice how the radiator is left connected. I normally do this when its possible to minimize the dirtiness of the work area. Nothing worse than trying to complete a motor swap/replacement and having the feeling of skating around like you're on ice.






The two shots are of the engine compartment. Obviously when the engine is removed, its an opportune time to clean things up a bit. Here's a before and after. Remember, this motor had 300k+ on it and there was alot of oil/build up on the sub frame and surrounding areas. With two cans of engine degreaser and a power washer, it made for a much better looking engine compartment.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Here's a few shots of the j35a8 being lowered in and then bolted down. Still a few more things to do/buy but I'm pleased with how far we got in the total 4-5 hours. Looking good so far:

Atlas.46

More!!!!

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Here's my manifold. Not quite finished but I'm getting there...trying to get some of the powder coating techniques down.









And a few other powder coated pieces....

poisx7

iTrader: (1)

Niceeee .
can't wait to confirm workability on this unique project.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

^^^
My goal is to hopefully have it running within one, two weeks at most. Right now, I'm having to correct a few small issues on all 3 motor mounts (front, rear and top) in drlling/tapping some properly aligned holes. This is a VERY small obstacle and shouldn't take me more than an hour at most. After that, I'll need to take on some metal fabrication in designing/constructing two transmission mounts: one on the bottom and one on the top...again, another small obstacle.

Current parts that have been been purchased:
2007 TL-S engine harness/sub-harness/cabin harness
2007 RL ECM
2007 TL-S ignition switch and immobilizer
2007 TL-S half shaft
2007 TL-S engine/transmssion mounts and brackets
2007 TL-S drive by wire (DBW) module
2005 Accord gas pedal
2005 Accord accelerator cable (pedal to APP sensor)
2005 Accord accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor
2007 RL fuel pump control (FPC) module
2007 RL fuel pump assembly
2007 TL-S instrument cluster
2005 TL 3.2 front catalytic converter (will be gutted)

Things to get:
DBW sub harness (APP sensor to ECM)
Rear catalytic converter
2007 TL-S 3.5 Auto ECM (RL ECM requires the use of a radiator fan control (RFC) module that needs the fuse block harness from the RL also, cheaper to just buy TL-S ECM)

After completion, I'm having a member from j32a dot com build a custom turbo manifold and will add a turbo to this build. It will be low boost for now. More pictures coming soon.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

For a few updates and pictures to throw on the thread and figured I'd do it while I have time off for New Years Eve.

I did some more work on the intake manifold and am trying to get the paint scheme down. As the previous pictures showed, I powder coated the manifold body black and left a few spots unpainted but have decided to do the manifold body all black but may add on it later with a high heat ceramic. Also, started on the lid. This has been a MAJOR PIA due to the prep work (masking) and then painting the HPD logo.





And then a shot of the plate powder coated black with the flat orange lettering. In this photo, I still have one more coat of black and 3 more coats of the ceramic orange before clear coating the entire manifold in a ceramic clear coat. So far I think it's going to meet my expectations.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Another issue I ran into was the half shaft (aka: intermediate shaft) in two separate problems. First of all, because I didn't have the original j35a8 CV axles, I used the original axles from the j30a1. The drivers side slid right in and gave me no issues whatsoever. The passenger side was a different story. As I said, two problems:
1. The half shaft mounting bracket on the j35a8 has a four bolt mount whereas the j30a1 bracket is a three bolt mount. None of which holes lines up on the brackets.
2. The passenger side CV axles inner shaft of the j35a8 is a male shaft and the j30a1...you guessed it...female.

So I ended up having to "press" (I'll explain the quotations later) both mounting brackets/bearing off each axle and then put the j35a8's mount on the j30a1's axle shaft in order to use the j30a1 axle on the passenger side. Doesn't sound like much work...that is, if you actually HAVE a damn press!

The first picture shows the factory setup off of the j30a1. The half shaft, the mounting bracket (removed already), and the axle itself.



Next is the factory j35a8 half shaft. Notice how the shaft has a male on each end. Again, the j30a1 has male on outside and female on the inside.



Here's the j30a1 shaft with the j35a8 mounting bracket pressed onto it. Notice the male on the outside and female on the inside...Success!



And lastly, this was the "press" that I had come up with. An old hollow transmission jack body that I could put the axle into while holding the mounting bracket up top and then use the lift (with a cars weight added to it) to lower down onto the axle to either press in the axle or out. This and a little bit of PB Blaster did the job! :-)

fsttyms1

Crafty

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I had the day off today and so I figured I'd wake up early and get some work done on the car...this meant I had to go to work (shop). :-(

Anyhow, my intentions were to get most of the last few things wrapped up so that I could hopefully get the engine atleast started...not so much. I was faced with three problems right off the bat:

1. As I was surveying the engine compartment and trying to determine what I should start with first, I realized that the engine was sitting slightly crooked. And by slightly I mean just enough to barely be able to see without busting out the measuring tape. It was off by 1/2" and the passeneger side was slightly more forward then the opposing side. After unbolting the side mounts top and bottom, made the adjustments with the engine and then of course had to reset all the mounts and that meant redrilling/retapping the bolt holes...not really a big deal.

2. After that ^^^, I decided I'd start with the half shaft that I had constructed to fit the motor. Upon mock up, I noticed that the mount holes on the bearing housing was off by over a 1/2"! I went ahead and followed through with mock up and after seeing that the CV axle was the correct length at the spindle itself, I removed the half shaft again. I could tell that there was no way to redrill any new holes and make it work because of how small the bracket was. My only option was to machine the bearing surface to bring the bracket in so that the mounting holes would line up. This also meant cutting a new C-clip ring for the clip itself to lock into. Got Er Dun....









3. And lastly, I paid BIG TIME by purchasing an 04 TL ECM sub harness to use with this swap. Thankfully I decided to go with the 07 TL-S instead of the RL ECM. I only had to repinning the ECM connectors and then the engine harness connectors but had a
I stuck with the RL ECM, it would've been about a 4-5 repin job! In the end, I was able to make the 04 TL harness match up correctly color for color and circuit for circuit..cause that's just how pimps roll! ;-)

acura_dipset_tl

iTrader: (40)

that's just straight sick. Keep up the great work, I can't wait till its all done. Make sure you make a few videos when its up and running.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Are you going to be able to run the flash pro on this swap?
That would make it more of a sought after swap.
What are the hp/tq numbers of the motor stock ?

fsttyms1

That would be the best reason to do it. Hell i want to try just so that i can run the Hondata unit.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Thanks man. It's been fun and I'm enjoying the uphill battle on this thing. After its all said and done...it will all be worth it.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Question:
Answer:

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

RL is 290hp from 05-08
TL-S is 286 from 07-08

This one, as mentioned, is from the RL. The RL has a slightly larger cam.

And NO, Richard, you can't gain any additional power/status by painting this motor gold...nor the components that attach to it.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

Funny.
We'll see if the gold does anything.The car is on jack stands till my headers come back.
Far as status,I will be messing with the car till it's the fastest N/A CL. You can quote that if you like.
Maybe I should stop being a pussy and try to install my cams again since I have some pieces that need to come off out of the way already.
The motor has seen a 50psi increase in all the cylinders since the last time I tryied them.160 vs 210
Maybe thats enough.
It would kill me if I been holding these cams for so long if I could get them to run by just poping them in now.

Go ahead and tell me to try again. I just might.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Well, I realized that my machinist ruined my bearing when he pressed it off/on the half shaft so I'm looking around for a company like Federal Mogul or National to see if they carry it. Honda carries it but its like $43 and that's outrageous for a bearing! Does anyone know where to find an online bearing spec guide so I can use the dimensions (W 15mm, ID 38mm, OD 58mm) to locate one?