What's the difference between standard CL, CLS Auto & CLS 6sp OEM Shocks?
#1
boosted is best
Thread Starter
What's the difference between standard CL, CLS Auto & CLS 6sp OEM Shocks?
What's the difference between '01-'03 standard CL, CLS Auto & CLS 6sp OEM shocks in regards to firmness? Also, are the CLS shocks interchangeable on a standard CL?
#2
Bump. Anyone have an answer to this? Are they the same or different part numbers?
I searched and read that the Type-S suspension is "sport-tuned" and firmer, but does anyone have any specific information as to the differences?
Specifically, I'm wondering if it would be better to use Type-S struts with H&R OE springs rather than my stock TL struts.
Any assistance is appreciated.
I searched and read that the Type-S suspension is "sport-tuned" and firmer, but does anyone have any specific information as to the differences?
Specifically, I'm wondering if it would be better to use Type-S struts with H&R OE springs rather than my stock TL struts.
Any assistance is appreciated.
#3
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Don't know the exact differences. The Type S shocks are stiffer, & sport tuned. No matter which Type S, CLS/TLS, or 6MT. You might want to get aftermarket shocks anyway for the springs if your not going to use the TLP stock ones. Why spend the $$ on a stock shock(even though it from a Type S)
#4
Type-S supposed to be about 10% stiffer than CLp. Get Tokico blue's if you want a slightly firmer strut at a reasonable price. They are non-adjustable. Factory Type-S struts probably cost more than even Koni or Tokico adjustables (which I hear are stiffer than stock on the softest setting).
#5
If Type-S struts are supposed to be around 10% stiffer than Premium struts, that should work out well for me since H&R OE springs are supposed to be around 10-15% stiffer than stock Premium springs.
BTW, I'm going to get the Type-S struts because cls6sp03 listed them for much less than a set of Tokicos in the classifieds.
BTW, I'm going to get the Type-S struts because cls6sp03 listed them for much less than a set of Tokicos in the classifieds.
#6
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by SC TL
If Type-S struts are supposed to be around 10% stiffer than Premium struts, that should work out well for me since H&R OE springs are supposed to be around 10-15% stiffer than stock Premium springs.
BTW, I'm going to get the Type-S struts because cls6sp03 listed them for much less than a set of Tokicos in the classifieds.
If Type-S struts are supposed to be around 10% stiffer than Premium struts, that should work out well for me since H&R OE springs are supposed to be around 10-15% stiffer than stock Premium springs.
BTW, I'm going to get the Type-S struts because cls6sp03 listed them for much less than a set of Tokicos in the classifieds.
#7
Originally posted by typeR
lol...theyre also about 10% stiffer then the type S o.e. springs...theyre also supposed to only lower the vehical .75front and .50 rear all of which are falicies...BTW i have the H&R o.e.'s and love them ...you can buy my rear type S shocks for a 100$ shipped
lol...theyre also about 10% stiffer then the type S o.e. springs...theyre also supposed to only lower the vehical .75front and .50 rear all of which are falicies...BTW i have the H&R o.e.'s and love them ...you can buy my rear type S shocks for a 100$ shipped
I'm glad to hear you like your OEs. What kind of drop are you getting from them? I heard the drop is more like 1" all around.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by SC TL
Thanks, but I'm getting all four struts for $85 shipped.
I'm glad to hear you like your OEs. What kind of drop are you getting from them? I heard the drop is more like 1" all around.
Thanks, but I'm getting all four struts for $85 shipped.
I'm glad to hear you like your OEs. What kind of drop are you getting from them? I heard the drop is more like 1" all around.
#9
Pro
Originally posted by SC TL
Thanks, but I'm getting all four struts for $85 shipped.
I'm glad to hear you like your OEs. What kind of drop are you getting from them? I heard the drop is more like 1" all around.
Thanks, but I'm getting all four struts for $85 shipped.
I'm glad to hear you like your OEs. What kind of drop are you getting from them? I heard the drop is more like 1" all around.
#10
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by louisn
Care to tell us who yoyr supplier might be? For that price sounds like their hot to me!
Care to tell us who yoyr supplier might be? For that price sounds like their hot to me!
#11
boosted is best
Thread Starter
BTW- I had konis installed on my CLS 6sp recently. I notice that under certain road conditions I can hear a thud or clunk from the suspension. This usually occurs when running over a dip with a sudden drop-off or on a deep rut.
Anyone else have a similar issue and do you know what may be causing this.
Also, the konis are set to a soft setting.
Anyone else have a similar issue and do you know what may be causing this.
Also, the konis are set to a soft setting.
#13
'Big Daddy Diggler'
I have been side by side with a stock tl-s and my tl-p was the same exact height with the same exact wheel gap. Also i used the type s shocks on my car when i was stock and felt no difference in performance or ride quality. I think that the springs have different rates and that is what leads to the harsher ride and slightly better handling.
#14
Suzuka Master
Originally posted by cls6sp03
BTW- I had konis installed on my CLS 6sp recently. I notice that under certain road conditions I can hear a thud or clunk from the suspension. This usually occurs when running over a dip with a sudden drop-off or on a deep rut.
Anyone else have a similar issue and do you know what may be causing this.
Also, the konis are set to a soft setting.
BTW- I had konis installed on my CLS 6sp recently. I notice that under certain road conditions I can hear a thud or clunk from the suspension. This usually occurs when running over a dip with a sudden drop-off or on a deep rut.
Anyone else have a similar issue and do you know what may be causing this.
Also, the konis are set to a soft setting.
There have been a few people that have run the Toyo 235/45-17s AND 17x8 SSRs that were "thud free" until they added the Koni shocks. The fix has generally been to go to a narrower tire as the "thud" has been caused by "rubbing" between the tire and fender well. (It is "better" to get a "thud" from the bumpstop "collapsing"/"compressing" than from a tire rub.)
This has happened to more than one person; I "believe" the bumpstop/Koni combo is not as aggressive as the stock shock/setup. (The effectiveness of the bumpstops depends on the compressed length of the shock, etc and I am not aware of anyone doing a detailed study of all elements and I do not have Konis on my car.)
I do not know what tires and wheels you are running, so...
Look for rubs...
#15
boosted is best
Thread Starter
Interesting... but I'm running with Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 225/50ZR17s.
Originally posted by EricL
There have been a few people that have run the Toyo 235/45-17s AND 17x8 SSRs that were "thud free" until they added the Koni shocks. The fix has generally been to go to a narrower tire as the "thud" has been caused by "rubbing" between the tire and fender well. (It is "better" to get a "thud" from the bumpstop "collapsing"/"compressing" than from a tire rub.)
This has happened to more than one person; I "believe" the bumpstop/Koni combo is not as aggressive as the stock shock/setup. (The effectiveness of the bumpstops depends on the compressed length of the shock, etc and I am not aware of anyone doing a detailed study of all elements and I do not have Konis on my car.)
I do not know what tires and wheels you are running, so...
Look for rubs...
There have been a few people that have run the Toyo 235/45-17s AND 17x8 SSRs that were "thud free" until they added the Koni shocks. The fix has generally been to go to a narrower tire as the "thud" has been caused by "rubbing" between the tire and fender well. (It is "better" to get a "thud" from the bumpstop "collapsing"/"compressing" than from a tire rub.)
This has happened to more than one person; I "believe" the bumpstop/Koni combo is not as aggressive as the stock shock/setup. (The effectiveness of the bumpstops depends on the compressed length of the shock, etc and I am not aware of anyone doing a detailed study of all elements and I do not have Konis on my car.)
I do not know what tires and wheels you are running, so...
Look for rubs...
#16
Suzuka Master
Originally posted by cls6sp03
Interesting... but I'm running with Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 225/50ZR17s.
Interesting... but I'm running with Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 225/50ZR17s.
The 225/50-17 has a larger diameter, section width, tread with and loaded radius compared to the stock tires.
Look for rub marks...
There is only a small difference between a 235/45-17 and a 225/45-17. The difference between a 225/50-17 and 215/50-17 is not that far off by comparison.
In both cases (235/45 vs. 225/45 and 225/50-17 vs. 215/50-17) the tire is running closer to the fender well due to SECTION WIDTH, TREAD WIDTH, AND DIAMETER!
Wild guess: If someone made a replacement bumpstop for use with the Konis that was about 1/4” longer (same elastomeric properties and profile/width), it would probably eliminate any TIRE RUBBING. (The bumpstop acts as a second spring and when companies design shocks/bumpstops/etc, they generally consider the "stock" tire/wheel setup (unless they have a specific application that targets people with a well-known configuration [racing, slalom, rally, etc]). (The last comment is my own opinion from answers given to me, from techs and engineers, about why they didn't make more aggressive bump stops for our cars.)
YMMV
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
orkoTL
4G TL Problems & Fixes
107
09-28-2017 09:12 AM