Rapture

Tried to replace the trans filter, forgot some of my wrenches (Yeah really...) so when I tried to put the bolts back on for the bracket, seen here:



When I tried to put the bolt back in for the threaded hole shown in picture (with red arrow), for some reason it absolutely wouldn't thread. I stood there leaning over there, putting my back through hell, trying to get the thing to thread and it wouldn't.

However, I was able to get the upper bolt back in (on first try...) so I think it'll be safe until I can get back in there.

Did anyone else have trouble with this? Does it kind of pop out of alignment a bit when both bolts for that black plug come out? Is it possible to take the entire piece (bracket + fluid line (the black piece) out all at once, without disconnecting the black line from the bracket? See I've come to the conclusion that I cannot get that thing to thread back in without removing the entire bracket and see wtf is going on. That will have to wait until I can get more time to get back in there with the proper tools. For those that have done this they know hand space is extremely limited

Rapture

Also forgot to mention that for some reason when I started my car back up, all was good except the bulb on my dash clock. Is there anything that would have caused that based on what work I did? Seems too coincidental that the bulb would burn out now...

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

<p>it's a puzzle! lol kinda like those RPG games where you have to move the stones in the correct order.</p><p>hope you get that last bolt threaded and tightened&nbsp;</p>

RooEng

I just changed mine last week. I had to remove the 10mm bolt that holds the line on the back of the transmission to get it out of the filter. If you remove that bolt, you'll be able to position the flange so you'll be able to thread the bolts in.

01acls

Try installing the red arrow bolt first then the top bolt and leave all bolts loose until the last one is threaded before tightening.

Rapture

Yeah really odd. When I was removing the red arrow bolt, it took a bit of extra force to remove it (did it by hand, have a blister on my finger now) but it just wouldn't thread back in for some reason. But the whole thing does seem to be on there pretty tight regardless with one flange bolt in place, so I think I'll be safe from leaks for a little while.

You mean the bolt at the other end of the line? Didn't know a bolt existed back there. Is it easy to get to?

Actually tried that first. Both flange bolts were off but the red arrow bolt wouldn't thread.

I'm curious to see if there's a way I can remove the flange + bracket together as one piece. Like remove it all from the filter but keep the line/plug/flange connected to the bracket so I can get a better look at WTF is going on. Anyone know if that's possible?

RooEng

It's easier than the other bolts you've taken off. That end has a hose clamped to it so after you remove the bolt, you can move the tube around and move it away from the filter.


It's the bolt circled in red. The big shiny bolt just below it is the fill plug. Top of the picture is the firewall.

01acls

Seems like the arrow bolt/nut is Cross threaded. Take the gold bracket off and chase the threads with a good bolt. You can use any other 10 mm bolt from the car. Just use lube oil when chasing the threads.

Or file the bolt at a 45° towards the center on the threaded end to aid in starting the bolt but first insert a 10mm nut onto the bolt to chase (unscrewing the nut) the thread after filing.

Rapture

Yeah I think it's cross threaded. The threads are a bit damaged on the first millimeter of the bolt. Hate having to go to the hardware store just to get a couple nuts or bolts.

RooEng

Try to screw the bolt in from the back side of the bracket. Run it in until it comes out the the other end. This should clean up the threads. Then loosen the other bolt and wiggle the tube flange and try to center it until you can turn both bolts by hand. Tighten the bolt on the flange side and make sure the other bolt still turns by hand. Take the other bolt out and install it the right way. The flange should now be positioned so the bolt should screw straight in without the flange trying to push it off center.

Rapture

Thanks for all the help! Oddly enough my car is at the body shop pretty much all this week, then once it's out I gotta do a few other things with it so I won't have too much time to take another whack at it for a little while. Definitely have to keep an eye on the line to make sure it doesn't leak any ATF in the meantime, though. I doubt it will, though. I doubt engine vibrations would pull that thing loose. The plug/line was definitely in there pretty tight.

Will update again when I get it fixed... or if I goof again

01acls

Here's another option... Just replace the bracket and bolt.

Rapture

Good idea! I have to go to the dealer soon to get the airbag recall done anyways. Need to get some trans fill/drain washers too.

Anyone have a part #?

Rapture

Did some digging and I think I found it, for those who, like me, will replace it.



#5,
OEM BRACKET, PIPE (ATF) - 2003 Acura CL (P/N 21237P7W000)

Though I think it goes without saying it's not model year specific.