Teh CL's.... CLS6
09-16-2014, 05:43 PM
#43
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Clutch is nearly broken in, been itching to dabble with Vtec .. 
Car pulls really hard though, night and day difference coming from my 1st gen with the F20b..it's literally torque on tap
Pics coming soon & a head to head battle with the J35 vs Gnuts' SC J32..
Car pulls really hard though, night and day difference coming from my 1st gen with the F20b..it's literally torque on tap
Pics coming soon & a head to head battle with the J35 vs Gnuts' SC J32..
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asianspec (09-16-2014),
Marcelechka (09-16-2014)
09-16-2014, 05:48 PM
#44
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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Marcelechka (09-18-2014)
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Marcelechka (09-18-2014)
09-22-2014, 11:47 AM
#50
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Turn the car on this morning & once she warmed up the idle started bouncing then went away, IACV is brand new.. Check the CEL & got P1297 - electrical load detector..
From some quick searching it's in the fuse box under the hood & the whole fuse box has to be replaced..
From some quick searching it's in the fuse box under the hood & the whole fuse box has to be replaced..
09-22-2014, 01:02 PM
#51
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Could be several issues.. are you using the same fusebank from the J30/32?
09-22-2014, 05:42 PM
#54
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I'd cross check the main fuse values for the J35 and the main fuse values in the fusebank. If they're appropriately rated, check idle related fuses (IACV, MAP, MAF, etc). Does the J35 have a maf and map sensor as well? Assuming everything is appropriately rated and wired, I'd then back track the connections to make sure the connection and wiring from each are fine. If everything checks out, I'd make sure there's no manifold / vacuum leak somewhere.
09-22-2014, 05:44 PM
#55
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Basically the PCM is adjusting the load because of the fault which is why it's bouncing. If you're certain that it happens when it's warm only.. you might start with the intake side from manifold back. Then check the fuse ratings and intake side wiring / connections.
09-22-2014, 06:12 PM
#56
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I'd cross check the main fuse values for the J35 and the main fuse values in the fusebank. If they're appropriately rated, check idle related fuses (IACV, MAP, MAF, etc). Does the J35 have a maf and map sensor as well? Assuming everything is appropriately rated and wired, I'd then back track the connections to make sure the connection and wiring from each are fine. If everything checks out, I'd make sure there's no manifold / vacuum leak somewhere.
I just got home from work & the idle didn't bounce at all once the car warmed up or on the way home at a light.
I'll look into the MDX main fuse values
10-05-2014, 05:37 PM
#57
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Electrical load detector CEL is gone. Replaced the serpentine belt/tensioner last week & it hasn't been back yet. Idle still bounces between 1000-1200 rpm probably once a day but there's no CEL..
From one thing to another.. Was out of town last weekend & my axle decided to take a shit on me, so I got it replaced along with the lower ball joint on the passenger side at a local shop. Everything was great till Friday night when I started hearing a creaking sound (aka dungeon door opening) by taking off from a stop & slowing down to stop.
Jacked the car up to make sure everything was good & it all checked out. I've searched different threads but haven't found a definite answer, any insight would be appreciated..
From one thing to another.. Was out of town last weekend & my axle decided to take a shit on me, so I got it replaced along with the lower ball joint on the passenger side at a local shop. Everything was great till Friday night when I started hearing a creaking sound (aka dungeon door opening) by taking off from a stop & slowing down to stop.
Jacked the car up to make sure everything was good & it all checked out. I've searched different threads but haven't found a definite answer, any insight would be appreciated..
10-06-2014, 08:30 PM
#60
Racer
Yea it could deff be the springs or shocks.. my car eats up upper ball joints like its its job. It would make a similar noise on acceleration and deceleration, to start but now on any shifting of weight on the front end
10-06-2014, 08:42 PM
#61
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We'll see how it plays out..
It's actually real convienient that I'm grabbing some coilovers this week which hopefully will correct the problem but they need a set of replacement springs before they go on ...
It's actually real convienient that I'm grabbing some coilovers this week which hopefully will correct the problem but they need a set of replacement springs before they go on ...
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97BlackAckCL (10-07-2014)
10-21-2014, 08:26 AM
#63
3.5 psi
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he used a full J35A3 engine. However i've read information that says they will clear. The J35A3 heads are nearly identical to the J32A2. I think the J32A2 has a 1mm bigger exhaust valve and different cams. So you could just use a J35A3 and put in different cams.
11-04-2014, 11:13 PM
#65
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Just hit 5000km since I did the swap & loving the car more and more each day..
In the last few weeks she's had some gremlins though, with a fluctuating cluster/idle which ended up being solved by redoing a couple grounds.
Tip of the day: always start with simple shit when something goes wrong
Finally managed to get my hands on the OEM rims from the previous owner which took almost 2 months..
.. So the brutal rims that came with the car are getting tossed & the OEMs are getting a fresh pair of snow tires this weekend since the winter season is upon us..
In the last few weeks she's had some gremlins though, with a fluctuating cluster/idle which ended up being solved by redoing a couple grounds.
Tip of the day: always start with simple shit when something goes wrong
Finally managed to get my hands on the OEM rims from the previous owner which took almost 2 months..
.. So the brutal rims that came with the car are getting tossed & the OEMs are getting a fresh pair of snow tires this weekend since the winter season is upon us..
11-05-2014, 02:17 AM
#66
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
11-05-2014, 05:44 AM
#68
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Moar pics!
11-05-2014, 09:13 AM
#70
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This weekend hopefully..
11-05-2014, 09:26 AM
#71
3.5 psi
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with a 3.5 i think you'd have to run the HBP to flow enough air to make it move. I still have the HBP sitting around....taunting me. I won't put it on without some kind of cooling. I'm leaning towards a front mount intercooler for its simplicity.
A video would be great. I've tried with my phone but it's too hard (and dangerous).
A video would be great. I've tried with my phone but it's too hard (and dangerous).
11-05-2014, 10:04 AM
#72
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A front mount would be soo damn sick & what size is that intake piping? I'm thinking of making a tapered intake pipe, from 4"- 3.75 - 3.5 - 3.0 - 2.75 (size of the 70mm TB) with a velocity stack..
Idea is to increase the intake air speed with the tapered pipe (ie. ITB runners) even more than just having a velocity stack. Never seen one before so I'm really curious how it would turn out
Idea is to increase the intake air speed with the tapered pipe (ie. ITB runners) even more than just having a velocity stack. Never seen one before so I'm really curious how it would turn out
12-14-2014, 08:26 PM
#77
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
looks great!
12-14-2014, 08:27 PM
#78
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Is the driver side of the hood near the windshield misaligned a bit?
12-15-2014, 11:06 AM
#80
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Ah makes sense.. Good to vent hot air too.. 