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Subframe questions

 
Old 06-26-2018, 05:15 AM
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Subframe questions

I drive a 2003 CL Type-S 6 Speed Manual, in Aegean Blue Pearl, quite a rare combination that looks beautiful even with its bodily imperfections. Obviously, with all of these models, the A/C drain unfortunately landed right above the front subframe in their design, and I understand almost every car has a design flaw, but it is a very rare part that I have to get custom built from Acura themselves. My subframe is so rusty that it cracked, and I was wondering if anybody had any ideas as to what would make the subframe go out on me? Iím asking this now, several months after I have bought the car, because Iím going to fix the subframe, because I worry itíll go out on me before I get the chance to fix it.. any ideas??
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Old 06-26-2018, 07:12 AM
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Rust can compromise structural integrity.
I'd get it replaced ASAP. and then re-route the drain line away from the sub-frame for future prevention
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Old 06-26-2018, 07:41 AM
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FWIW: Sub frame rust through, is not an uncommon issue, on 2G CL models, which are operated in Salt Belt states. . An alternative, to buying a new sub frame from Acura, might be to source one, from a "salt free", southern, or western state, salvage yard. Even, with shipping costs, such a part may, be considerably cheaper, than buying New, OEM. A couple of sources to check, would be, car-part.com, and or HollanderParts.com.
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Old 06-26-2018, 08:30 AM
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OP, whatever you do or where ever you source the sub frame (cross beam) component(s) from (front and/or rear), make sure it is from a manual 6-speed CL-S. Otherwise, you may not get the connecting points for the front and/or rear motor mount damper assemblies.

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...ed-out-931595/
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Old 10-09-2018, 03:43 AM
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I frame replacement

I did the K frame, which is the actual name of the part you are looking to replace, on my 01 CL-S recently and I have some advice for you if youíve never replaced a subframe before. Take both te front and the back of the sub frame out at the same time when taking it apart!! Lol. I didnít do this and it took almost four times as long to put it back in than it did taking it out. Get a floor jack with a 2x4Ē and use that or a couple of those to help balance the motor and tranny wen dropping the frame out. THEN once the whole sub frame is dropped down, ten you can unbolt them and swap in te new one. Bolt them back together then put the completed frame back up. That right there will save you so much tome and thrown tools LOL.

I did mine the hard hard way and it literally took two whole days of fighting it. Also it might be easier to unbolt to motor mounts off the engine brace and drop the mounts down with the frame rather than to take them out and have to fight aligning them back again if you have larger hands where space is, in this engine bay VERY limited.
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Old 10-09-2018, 05:11 AM
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Frame

dorgot to add this in. Iím going to assume youíve never taken this car apart like this before so here goes. Donít forget that thereís some power steering line anchors on top of the sub frame youíre needing to replace. I think there should be three of them an are bolted down with a 10mm bolt. If you break that high pressure power steering line, itís $150 or so from Oriellys ha ha ha. So careful with that. Itíll be really easy to get to the top of the steering rack if you take out the strut brace on top. There should be a couple hidden bolts underneath the wiper cowling in there, and from what Iíve read on here in a different post about how to bleed the lines, just hook everything back up, fill the resivoire up and turn the wheel lock to lock. Then add flui as needed. I forget how much fluid it holds but itís not very much. Just top it off.

I hope your repair job goes super easy for you with no stupid issues like I had lol. Lesson learned
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Old 10-09-2018, 01:17 PM
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I just started pulling the subframe on my 6MT last night. It rotted and snapped right off at the control arm box. No surprise being on the East coast of Canada, for its entire life. Our cars rust all over here. We even have two CRXs with rotten roof skins.

I was able to purchase a mint Texas sourced replacement through a local salvage yard. $225 CAD
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Old 10-09-2018, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
OP, whatever you do or where ever you source the sub frame (cross beam) component(s) from (front and/or rear), make sure it is from a manual 6-speed CL-S. Otherwise, you may not get the connecting points for the front and/or rear motor mount damper assemblies.

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...ed-out-931595/
I'm doubtful you'd find one from a 6MT. I couldn't find one last week. I'm not worried though, it's a super easy fab job to weld in a pair of L brackets to mount the rear damper to.
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Old 10-09-2018, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Cboutilier View Post
I'm doubtful you'd find one from a 6MT. I couldn't find one last week.
No doubt it would be a challenge since there are not many around. Just curious, how did you do your search?

Last edited by zeta; 10-09-2018 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 10-09-2018, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
No doubt it would be a challenge since there are not many around. Just curious, how did you do your search?
Where I'm in Canada, I used a local salvage company with connections to the used parts dealer networks in the US. He keeps a few rear beams in stock when he can find them. The Accords always need them. It's usually a 3 week waiting period for a subframe for a 6g 2.3L Accord.
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Old 10-09-2018, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Cboutilier View Post
Where I'm in Canada, I used a local salvage company with connections to the used parts dealer networks in the US. He keeps a few rear beams in stock when he can find them. The Accords always need them. It's usually a 3 week waiting period for a subframe for a 6g 2.3L Accord.
Interesting.
When I do a search for 'engine cradle' for the CLS6 on car-part.com, under the following sub categories; 'Front, back, MT' or 'Front forward Type-S, MT', there are quite a few showing up for the U.S. market possibly one or two for Canada.

Not sure how accurate the description column info. is though.
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Old 10-09-2018, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post
Interesting.
When I do a search for 'engine cradle' for the CLS6 on car-part.com, under the following sub categories; 'Front, back, MT' or 'Front forward Type-S, MT', there are quite a few showing up for the U.S. market possibly one or two for Canada.

Not sure how accurate the description column info. is though.
Oh well, if the only difference is the damper mount I'm laughing. Dad was a welder/fabricator for 35 years, so a couple little brackets is no big deal.
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Old 10-10-2018, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Cboutilier View Post
Oh well, if the only difference is the damper mount I'm laughing. Dad was a welder/fabricator for 35 years, so a couple little brackets is no big deal.

Well, at least you know of, now, another source you can check with other than your '...local salvage company with connections...' the next time.

car-parts.com has saved me $$ over the years.
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by zeta View Post

Well, at least you know of, now, another source you can check with other than your '...local salvage company with connections...' the next time.

car-parts.com has saved me $$ over the years.
I'll have to look into using them. I mostly focus on VTEC era Hondas, but they are nearly extinct in this part of the world. I can't find them in the local u-pull yards.
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Old 11-23-2018, 04:31 PM
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Same problem here. Rusted subframe. I ended up putting in a 2002 V6 AT (Automatic) Subframe as the replacement for my 6MT. For sure, couldn't reinstall the front and rear engine torque dampers. I'm going to put in one of the "Stiffy" Ingalls-Dorman engine torque dampers that installs between the engine side mount and passenger side strut mount.
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Old 01-05-2019, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Cboutilier View Post
Oh well, if the only difference is the damper mount I'm laughing. Dad was a welder/fabricator for 35 years, so a couple little brackets is no big deal.
For the record, I'm not laughing. Life got in the way, so I'm doing this subframe swap in the driveway on my back. It's January in Canada, and this car spent the last 15 years on the salty East coast of Canada. This sucks.
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