Still misfiring and still extremely frustrated!
11-18-2018, 10:29 PM
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Still misfiring and still extremely frustrated!
Hey guys, I have a 2003 Acura CL as a somewhat project car that needs work. I have been misfiring on all cylinders since July and I posted on here asking for help around that time. Some suggested that I do a valve adjustment. So I did the valve adjustment with my auto tech teacher(Honda tech for 25 years), replaced all coils and plugs, fuel injectors and did a compression test. Now I’m still having a misfire on cylinder 4 and don’t know what else to do. I’m thinking it could be some type of electrical or wiring issue. Also if you have not seen my last post I’m having issues with the anti theft system as well, I don’t think it’s related. Any suggestions would help thank you!
11-19-2018, 03:54 PM
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Hey guys, I just scanned my car again and only cylinder 1 and 4 are misfiring. One thing I noticed is that many people with Honda v6 engines on the internet are also only getting misfires on their 1 and 4 cylinder aswell. I don’t think this is a coincidence...
12-06-2018, 08:55 PM
#5
Hey guys, I have a 2003 Acura CL as a somewhat project car that needs work. I have been misfiring on all cylinders since July and I posted on here asking for help around that time. Some suggested that I do a valve adjustment. So I did the valve adjustment with my auto tech teacher(Honda tech for 25 years), replaced all coils and plugs, fuel injectors and did a compression test. Now I’m still having a misfire on cylinder 4 and don’t know what else to do. I’m thinking it could be some type of electrical or wiring issue. Also if you have not seen my last post I’m having issues with the anti theft system as well, I don’t think it’s related. Any suggestions would help thank you!
12-22-2018, 01:19 PM
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Very easy fix. The intake manifold gasket is upside down. Flip it. While you're inside there take some brake cleaner & clean up those nasty carbon deposits. Many of these CL engines have this problem. Not sure how the gaskets were flipped in the first place but it's an easy fix. Misfires resolved--all of them.
12-28-2018, 02:43 PM
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Mines misfiring.
found a bad coil. Replaced it. Still misfiring. cel back on.
egr ports and itself replaced and cleaned. Plugs good as r the other coil, when tested.
Thought this car was problem free!
found a bad coil. Replaced it. Still misfiring. cel back on.
egr ports and itself replaced and cleaned. Plugs good as r the other coil, when tested.
Thought this car was problem free!
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12-28-2018, 03:28 PM
#8
An OBD2 scan tool telling you which cylinders are misfiring isn't reliable. There's only 1 knock sensor and it doesn't really do a good job of determining which cylinder is misfiring.
You said your mechanic did a compression test, but didn't bother to mention the results. You said he replaced the spark plugs, but didn't specify which kind. If you want help, you need to be detailed.
Is the misfire continuous even at idle? If so, you can easily identify the offending cylinder by sequentially disconnecting and reconnecting coil packs while listening for a change in idle quality.
If compression is good, the next step is to check for spark. If there is compression and spark, check for fuel (rare problem on these engines). If you have all three, make sure your timing is correct.
You said your mechanic did a compression test, but didn't bother to mention the results. You said he replaced the spark plugs, but didn't specify which kind. If you want help, you need to be detailed.
Is the misfire continuous even at idle? If so, you can easily identify the offending cylinder by sequentially disconnecting and reconnecting coil packs while listening for a change in idle quality.
If compression is good, the next step is to check for spark. If there is compression and spark, check for fuel (rare problem on these engines). If you have all three, make sure your timing is correct.
12-30-2018, 01:17 AM
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An OBD2 scan tool telling you which cylinders are misfiring isn't reliable. There's only 1 knock sensor and it doesn't really do a good job of determining which cylinder is misfiring.
You said your mechanic did a compression test, but didn't bother to mention the results. You said he replaced the spark plugs, but didn't specify which kind. If you want help, you need to be detailed.
Is the misfire continuous even at idle? If so, you can easily identify the offending cylinder by sequentially disconnecting and reconnecting coil packs while listening for a change in idle quality.
If compression is good, the next step is to check for spark. If there is compression and spark, check for fuel (rare problem on these engines). If you have all three, make sure your timing is correct.
You said your mechanic did a compression test, but didn't bother to mention the results. You said he replaced the spark plugs, but didn't specify which kind. If you want help, you need to be detailed.
Is the misfire continuous even at idle? If so, you can easily identify the offending cylinder by sequentially disconnecting and reconnecting coil packs while listening for a change in idle quality.
If compression is good, the next step is to check for spark. If there is compression and spark, check for fuel (rare problem on these engines). If you have all three, make sure your timing is correct.
12-30-2018, 05:48 PM
#10
Like I said, if compression is good then the next step is to check for spark. Switching the coil packs and spark plugs isn't checking for spark. What if the wiring to the coil pack is bad? You need to actually verify cylinder 4 is getting spark with a proper tester.
Also, you stated you did a compression and leak down test, but were too lazy to write down the numbers? " All of the cylinders where within each other" doesn't make any sense. Were they all 50psi compression? 100? 200? No point in doing a test if you don't know the results.
Kind of stupid to buy a new fuel injector without first verifying spark, but this again doesn't verify there is fuel. Could be a wire harness cut to the fuel injector.
The good thing is that you have a true dead cylinder 4. Since it's not an intermittent problem, it won't be difficult to diagnose or fix.
Also, you stated you did a compression and leak down test, but were too lazy to write down the numbers? " All of the cylinders where within each other" doesn't make any sense. Were they all 50psi compression? 100? 200? No point in doing a test if you don't know the results.
Kind of stupid to buy a new fuel injector without first verifying spark, but this again doesn't verify there is fuel. Could be a wire harness cut to the fuel injector.
The good thing is that you have a true dead cylinder 4. Since it's not an intermittent problem, it won't be difficult to diagnose or fix.
12-30-2018, 11:38 PM
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Like I said, if compression is good then the next step is to check for spark. Switching the coil packs and spark plugs isn't checking for spark. What if the wiring to the coil pack is bad? You need to actually verify cylinder 4 is getting spark with a proper tester.
Also, you stated you did a compression and leak down test, but were too lazy to write down the numbers? " All of the cylinders where within each other" doesn't make any sense. Were they all 50psi compression? 100? 200? No point in doing a test if you don't know the results.
Kind of stupid to buy a new fuel injector without first verifying spark, but this again doesn't verify there is fuel. Could be a wire harness cut to the fuel injector.
The good thing is that you have a true dead cylinder 4. Since it's not an intermittent problem, it won't be difficult to diagnose or fix.
Also, you stated you did a compression and leak down test, but were too lazy to write down the numbers? " All of the cylinders where within each other" doesn't make any sense. Were they all 50psi compression? 100? 200? No point in doing a test if you don't know the results.
Kind of stupid to buy a new fuel injector without first verifying spark, but this again doesn't verify there is fuel. Could be a wire harness cut to the fuel injector.
The good thing is that you have a true dead cylinder 4. Since it's not an intermittent problem, it won't be difficult to diagnose or fix.
12-31-2018, 10:30 PM
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12-31-2018, 10:34 PM
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Hey guys, I was driving the car this morning and I noticed a slight burning smell. It was the same smell I smelled when the misfire first started. I then went home and popped the hood and some a slight amount of smoke coming from the back of the engine bay, possibly the exhaust. It smelled almost like burned rubber. I don’t think I have any belts slipping and it didn’t smell like burning coolant or oil. Any ideas what it could be. Tomorrow is my day off and one of my few chances to work on the car.
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